buying my first rangie

[Fusion]

Howdy Guys , I'm looking at buying a range rover in a few months but just a cheapy one . I'm guessing around 81' to 83' model 4 door . i'm not wanting one that is top notch . as i can paint and all that stuff myself . what are some of the things to look out for when looking at one as in trouble spots , rust spots and other things ? Thanks Guys ;)

[dungarover]

Make yor first priority rust in sills, floorplan near the firewall, around where the fuel filler neck is typical place for Rangie rot. Check tailgates as well this is common rust spot as well. Under the spare wheel can be a place of attack for the rust worm too.

The general condition can be deciving. I've seen many Rangies that look mint on the outside only to find that they have cancer in the bodywork left right and center so be careful. At the end of the day it's most times repairable but why do all that work when for a few extra $$ you could have bought a better and rust-free example?

Mechanically like all 20 plus year old vehicles expect a few surprises. Many would have had work done over the time although the quality can be questionable. best to find one that is generally running well even if it's got some whines, rattles, etc.. The gearboxes on the vintage you've specified are tough if ruggard and agricultural but the 4 spped manual Lt95's will keep on going for a long time. Backlash is standard on all early 4 speed rangies, some more than others (my 76 has bugger-all). The shims in the trasfer case are known to wear and can be some of the cause for the backlash, also if it jumps out of low or high range. Easy enough job to DIY.

Generally, don't pay too much. There's plenty of dreamers out there chasing up to $5K for Rangies of 81-83 vintage and not always in great condition may I add. IMO $2-3K is a more sensible price for a good early 4 door and some are in the less than $1k bracket, but you get what you pay for so a cheapie is good as long as you're prepared to get your hands dirty to fix it and the repairs even DIY can ad up to the price of a decent one that doens't need as much mechanical work done. In saying that, I've seen a few gems for that sort of money too.

I wouldn't write off later model ones with EFI. The EFI stuff is cheap now so diagnosing an issue won't send you poor. A 86-87 can be had for the same money if not more with EFI, better seats and trim, auto gearbox that is superb well you get the idea. I seen a good 89 Vogue auto 3.5 EFI for less than $3K the other week with 250K on the clock, had some mechanical work done to it as well, kept well in general and was a good tidy unit. They're out there, you have to be on the ball because the good ones don't last and the crap ones are still is for sale 6 months later :(

May I add you Vics do seem to have the pick of good Rangies, QLD examples are way overpriced and not too crash hot either (doesn't mean I'll be moving back anytime soon, I like the weather up here).

Anyway, best of luck with your search when the times comes.

Trav

[Fusion]

thanks for that mate ;) . Is the auto box better than the manual as i was thinking of going the manual if i could ?

[dungarover]

I prefer the autos myself, but yes it's a better unit. The LT77 5 speed is a **** gearbox and that was the reason I bought an auto originally and 10 years on I'm still glad I made that decision

Trav

[BigJon]

I prefer the autos myself, but yes it's a better unit. The LT77 5 speed is a **** gearbox and that was the reason I bought an auto originally and 10 years on I'm still glad I made that decision

Trav

Don't let Travs opinion of the LT77 box put you off. Mine has done (I estimate) over 300 000km and works beautifully.

[Cap]

All very good points. I bought mine for 1k, did a crap load of work on it, and now I estimate it owes me about 8k. BUT, I know the beast inside out and if I get to use it for years (which I plan) it will pay itself off in trips/experience etc.

My old man (chucaro) just bought an 88 EFI Vogue in basically what he describes as mint condition for less than 6k with 174000 on the clock.

Best of luck ;)

[Waxenwane]

Dont waste your time with a pre 85 4 door, stick with 85 or later in that body style or go for a 2 door. !986 was a real good year, ZF 4 speed auto, EFI, upgraded electrics and plush interior.
I would'nt beleive all the trash you hear about LT77's either, I have one that has done 490,000+ k's and has only just started to leak oil, it has since been retired due to major body faults:eek:
Things to look out for are sagging springs, leaking power steering, noisy lifters on start up, rust in the sills, rust around the fuel hump in the back,rust around the wheel wells,rust in the inner gaurds around the sill points, cracking of the pillars (very common), rear doors not unlocking, and the list could go on forever, it all depends on your ability or enthusiasim to repair as to what faults are acceptable to you.

[Rangier Rover]

86 to 89 are the pick of them. Can be found for around $2000 to $4500 for a good one. Beware or viscous in 89. 87 on have weaker CV's. Can be changed with mods. Up grade to Fine spline shafts and lockers are a must if you want to play hard.:) The 3.5 V8 is gutless but fairly tough. (Dont cook it)
Later on you can put in a 3.9,4.6 if you like the v8.:)

[GuyG]

Don't let people put you off the Viscous Coupling, (mine was fine till I broke the casing - it would have broken regardless of which transfer was fitted) then swapped for a LT230. If you find a 90 model pre abs etc you can have the 3.9 with hotwire EFI, ZF then depending on which model sunroof, leather seats, cruise control etc or just basic spec being cloth seats manual mirrors

Hunt around, drive as many as possible get whatever is within your budget and remember there will always be hidden repairs required

[dungarover]

Don't let Travs opinion of the LT77 box put you off. Mine has done (I estimate) over 300 000km and works beautifully.

At least you didn't flame me, I was prepared with the flame retartant suit and all :D:D Of course that's my opinion of the Lt77 and I'm lazy so I hate changing gears too :mad::mad:

One thing about the LT77's they're cheap to pick up if they do break :)

Trav

[BigJon]

, cracking of the pillars (very common),

I am a bit concerned that mine has done that. How hard is the repair?

[Rangier Rover]

I am a bit concerned that mine has done that. How hard is the repair? Very easy to repair. To make a good job of it best to dent in the crack then depends on what you have to use. Oxy wield,Silver solder, Mig and lastly Ark. If care is taken it can be filed flat,eched and Painted GMH black. Best to pull trim back on B piller 1st or it may not look so good.:)