Where to find a Maxidrive actuator mounting block

[stirlsilver]

Does anyone have an idea where I can find the mounting block that you bolt the actuator onto which is welded to the diff housing?

Or even better, does anyone have one kicking around that is not needed?

Reason I ask is that I need to swap a maxi out of a Series 2A diff housing and put it into a Series 3 stage 1 housing.

Cheers for any help.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Does anyone have an idea where I can find the mounting block that you bolt the actuator onto which is welded to the diff housing?

Or even better, does anyone have one kicking around that is not needed?

Reason I ask is that I need to swap a maxi out of a Series 2A diff housing and put it into a Series 3 stage 1 housing.

Cheers for any help.
WHY?

Just swap over the housings!

They are interchangeable* - you can fit the Stage 1 swivels onto a series 2a housing etc.

Diana

* You may have to grind a little clearance for the 3.54:1 crownwheel.

[sclarke]

Good luck finding a new one from a company that shut its doors due to "Pride"

Cut the old one off.... and reweld it..

[stirlsilver]

WHY?

Just swap over the housings!

They are interchangeable* - you can fit the Stage 1 swivels onto a series 2a housing etc.

Diana

* You may have to grind a little clearance for the 3.54:1 crownwheel.


Why? Because the Stage 1 has a double cardan front drive shaft and the series 2A has a single cardan. The difference in the axles is that the stage 1 has the axle rotated up so the input flange is in line with the drive shaft.

I found this out the hard way... So I fitted the 2A housing with 10 degree caster wedges... turns out 10 degrees isn't enough to stop the vibration of the driveshaft misalignment, my tie rods now rub on my leaf packs and I am bordering on zero caster angle on my steering. So I've given up and i'm just going to put the locker into the old housing... but I need a mounting block though.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Nothing to do with pride Clarkie - it was a business decision. Some of the people Mal had to deal with were beyond belief, tyre kickers have nothing on them. One buyer had no idea about engineering and did not want to know, they were most probably simply going to ship the dies off to China.

stirlsilver if you still need to get a plate, first try Hi-Tough Engineering in Ryecroft St Carrera Qld (07) 5530 4123 - to see if they have access to the remaining Maxi-Drive diff spare parts. If not get back to me and I'll see If I can contact Mal Story directly.

Cheers
Diana

[stirlsilver]

Good luck finding a new one from a company that shut its doors due to "Pride"

Cut the old one off.... and reweld it..

Yeah... was hoping I wouldn't have to resort to that, I'm afraid I will mangle it and then the actuator will sit incorrectly... which is why i'm asking if I can get a new one anywhere...

[stirlsilver]

stirlsilver if you still need to get a plate, first try Hi-Tough Engineering in Ryecroft St Carrera Qld (07) 5530 4123 - to see if they have access to the remaining Maxi-Drive diff spare parts. If not get back to me and I'll see If I can contact Mal Story directly.

Cheers
Diana

Thanks for that diana, I'm thinking about doing this swap this weekend... talk about making things difficult eh? I just want to be able to go on the trip to cooma over easter... and I kinda need two drive shafts for that... car is lethal just on the rear.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Stirling

I am sure you know whats going on with your car, however when they did the 727 to ZF auto conversion on my RRc there was an awful vibration in the front shaft at 80K. Not a double cardan unit though. Eventually it turns out that the shaft was assembled in the wrong alignment.

Took the shaft apart and aligned it correctly and the vibration was gone.

Diana

[stirlsilver]

Stirling

I am sure you know whats going on with your car, however when they did the 727 to ZF auto conversion on my RRc there was an awful vibration in the front shaft at 80K. Not a double cardan unit though. Eventually it turns out that the shaft was assembled in the wrong alignment.

Took the shaft apart and aligned it correctly and the vibration was gone.

Diana

Yeah I have the vibration at 70 to 80 but it is still present from there on up but far less noticeable. I don't think it is possible to have a double cardan out of phase since the first two unis are in a cartridge. As far as I know, the last universal shouldn't do anything unless you are offroad and the housing is moving around.

the 10 deg wedge has got it close but the problem is that under torque the axle rolls down and makes the angle worse.

[dullbird]

Good luck finding a new one from a company that shut its doors due to "Pride"

Cut the old one off.... and reweld it..


Don't stir the pot clarkie please!! all those debates have been and gone the dust just needs to be left to settle now......

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Yeah I have the vibration at 70 to 80 but it is still present from there on up but far less noticeable. I don't think it is possible to have a double cardan out of phase since the first two unis are in a cartridge.Stirling

The problem on mine was that the spline was out 1 tooth, on a quick visual inspection "in-situ" it looked O.K. but when placed on a bench you could see the problem.

Diana

[isuzurover]

Stirlsilver is right about the axle on a stage 1 being rotated compared to a series.

However - I have a Stage 1 axle on my SIIA with a standard IIA front prop (and drive flanges so it is always turning) - and don't get any vibration. Can't remember if I installed it out of phase or not though - must check when back home...

SS - cutting the old one off and rewelding it will be easy if you take your time. Measure carefully where it is and mark up the new diff, Then cut vertically (parallel to the sides of the mounting block. There shouldn't be a heap of penetration under the block, so should come off fairly easily when tapped with a hammer (after you have cut through the welds).

Failing that, and if Diana can't help, making another would be easy.

[stirlsilver]

Thanks ben. I'll give that a go... I suppose the most critical thing is trying to position it again on the other housing. I'll just take measurements from the diff flange?

[sclarke]

Thanks ben. I'll give that a go... I suppose the most critical thing is trying to position it again on the other housing. I'll just take measurements from the diff flange?

Go see fred smith, he will cut it off the old aone and weld it on the new one for you.... he has done many a maxi drive...

[isuzurover]

Thanks ben. I'll give that a go... I suppose the most critical thing is trying to position it again on the other housing. I'll just take measurements from the diff flange?

The position is critical, but +/- a couple of mm won't be a problem. When you buy a locker to install yourself you get a template to position the mounting block. Maybe someone on here still has theirs???

[rovercare]

The position is critical, but +/- a couple of mm won't be a problem. When you buy a locker to install yourself you get a template to position the mounting block. Maybe someone on here still has theirs???

You mean the jig right;)

Yea I've got one horded away:D

[stirlsilver]

I'll ask fred if I can borrow his :D

If not I may need to call in favour with you rovercare

[stirlsilver]

Fred smith is a legend!
He had spare mounting blocks and lent me the jig!!! My lucky day! Yahooo!

[RonMcGr]

Stirling,

On a lighter side, how is the job going?

Cheers,

[sclarke]

Fred smith is a legend!
He had spare mounting blocks and lent me the jig!!! My lucky day! Yahooo!

You are kidding???

LENT you a Tool????? thats a first....
Are your knee's bruised??? :D:D:D

[isuzurover]

You mean the jig right;)

Yea I've got one horded away:D

Jig/template - all the same thing. :p

For sals diffs you only get a measurement - they are a much better design!!!

[stirlsilver]

Stirling,

On a lighter side, how is the job going?

Cheers,


Yeah going well, actually at work at the moment, just taking a 5 minute break to check out what's happening on the forum :D

I'll hopefully be doing the housing swap this weekend.