Load Equalising Bars - How to use them?

[p38arover]

I have to take my son's caravan back to Sydney from Dubbo tomorrow.

It has 4 shepherd's crook load equalising bars but I have no idea how to adjust them.

Help! (I'm searching the 'Net at the moment).

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Find out,,

Then try it without,,,,

If a van wont tow properly by itself,, its bent.
(or loaded incorrectly)


The proof is that vans DO tow without any help.

so if your's sways ,, --------:spudnikwowsers:

[Sprint]

Hayman Reese (http://www.haymanreese.com.au/consumer/products/wdh/productsindex.htm)
http://www.haymanreese.com.au/consumer/products/wdh/WDH_Installation_Instructions.pdf

[RonMcGr]

I have to take my son's caravan back to Sydney from Dubbo tomorrow.

It has 4 shepherd's crook load equalising bars but I have no idea how to adjust them.

Help! (I'm searching the 'Net at the moment).

Ron,

There should be hooks on the caravan draw bar that the bars sit in.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[RonMcGr]

Find out,,

Then try it without,,,,

If a van wont tow properly by itself,, its bent.
(or loaded incorrectly)


The proof is that vans DO tow without any help.

so if your's sways ,, --------:spudnikwowsers:

Very poor advice, indeed :mad:

[Pedro_The_Swift]

an opinion, no more no less.

and tell us all Ron,,
why do some vans require no stabilisation?

[vnx205]

an opinion, no more no less.

and tell us all Ron,,
why do some vans require no stabilisation?
I can see a good argument/debate/discussion brewing here. I would hate to miss out on being part of it.:p

I wasn't aware that load equalisation was just about stopping swaying. I thought it had other benefits as well.

Isn't it possible that a van could be quite satisfactory without load equalisation but even better with it?

I have no argument though about the need to load correctly. A friend once told me a hair raising story of what happened to him once when he thought he could get away with a load that he knew was not quite right.

[BigJon]

That size van ( I assume it is the one you have posted pics of previously) should tow behind the P38 without bars (I am also assuming it is empty).
Just make sure you have appropriate ball weight and the Rangie suspension locked at one height.

[RonMcGr]

I can see a good argument/debate/discussion brewing here. I would hate to miss out on being part of it.:p

I wasn't aware that load equalisation was just about stopping swaying. I thought it had other benefits as well.

Isn't it possible that a van could be quite satisfactory without load equalisation but even better with it?

I have no argument though about the need to load correctly. A friend once told me a hair raising story of what happened to him once when he thought he could get away with a load that he knew was not quite right.

This has all been covered before in a Caravan thread I started.
The only caravan that does not have a stabilizing setup is the extreme off road one with treg hitches, for obvious reasons. They should also be towed at a lower speed than those with stabilizers.

I am NOT getting into the argument on Land Rovers with air suspension!

Equalizers are designed to even the distribution of weight across the towing vehicle. Without them, a Caravan with a heavy tow ball weight, will reduce the steering capability of the tow vehicle, therefore upsetting the overall handling.

Most people who tow medium to large caravans use WDH.
Some tow smaller caravans with FWD vehicles and the WDH helps to keep the power and control at the front wheels.

Cheers

[Redback]

You need this Ron to attach to your towbar
http://www.camec.com.au/images/0111-011-01.jpg

This is where the bars attach on the car, the van should already have the hooks that the bars go on, they work like a torsion bar to stop sway.

http://www.camec.com.au/images/0111-020.jpg

Should be fine on the P38 Ron, it's more to stop the van swaying.

These are different to the Haymen Reese Weight Distrubution Hitches that are adjustable.

Baz.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

The attachment to the trailer used to be a sturdy steel U shape welded to the frame.

I've seen them lately with chains, that should be adjustable.

Though why you would by a van that overloads the tow ball weight is beyond me.

[RonMcGr]

The attachment to the trailer used to be a sturdy steel U shape welded to the frame.

I've seen them lately with chains, that should be adjustable.

Though why you would by a van that overloads the tow ball weight is beyond me.

Okay, here is some info and an explanation for you.

Caravan tow ball weight is usually 10% of the ATM

If it's too light, there's not enough downward pressure to ensure safe towing. The combination will 'snake' under tow, especially down hills.
If it's too heavy the tow vehicle's rear suspension will be forced down, affecting the vehicle's braking and steering.

In Australia, if the towball weight exceeds 125kg, it is recommended that you fit a hitch receiver to allow the use of a heavy duty weight distributing hitch.

A two bar mini system is good for up to 82kg tow ball weight, a heavier four bar as in an earlier post, 120kg and the larger twin lug system with chains, come in 250kg, 340kg and 455kg capacity ball load weights.

[BigJon]

Though why you would by a van that overloads the tow ball weight is beyond me.

I am with you :D.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

It doesnt explain anything Ron,,,

except how to spend MORE mega-dollars overloading your vehicle.

the 10% figure has been around for donkeys,, and is NOT an Australian standard. use it at your peril.

Of course a salesman will tell you you NEED a WDH,,


again,, if NOT ALL vans sway, then its NOT COMPULSORY to use these things. Maybe just a bit more thought----

[RonMcGr]

It doesnt explain anything Ron,,,

except how to spend MORE mega-dollars overloading your vehicle.

the 10% figure has been around for donkeys,, and is NOT an Australian standard. use it at your peril.

Of course a salesman will tell you you NEED a WDH,,


again,, if NOT ALL vans sway, then its NOT COMPULSORY to use these things. Maybe just a bit more thought----

I did not say it was COMPULSORY to fit them!
However I WILL say, I would NEVER tow a Caravan WITHOUT them.

Been there done that.

Most people who do not tow Caravans can never see the reason for them:confused:

So lets just say, you do it your way and I'll do it mine :)

[Pedro_The_Swift]

"Most people who do not tow Caravans can never see the reason for them"

Not a bad assumption,, "Most people"
How do you know I dont tow a van??
Because I dont have a problem?!?


Most people "I KNOW" who do not --etc etc,, might have been a more reasonable statement,,

and that wouldnt be true either as the LAST discussion on this was fairly even----;)

[abaddonxi]

Wheels (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/../general-chat/53065-wheels.html)


Wheels (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/../general-chat/53065-wheels.html)


Wheels (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/../general-chat/53065-wheels.html)



Cheers
Simon

[Pedro_The_Swift]

link link link no no no longer longer longer work work work:p

[abaddonxi]

link link link no no no longer longer longer work work work:p

Whaddaya mean? It's pointless and goes nowhere?

:D:D:D

Cheers
Simon

[Pedro_The_Swift]

you and I will have a serious beer one day----:cool:

[MarknDeb]

an opinion, no more no less.

and tell us all Ron,,
why do some vans require no stabilisation?

simple answer is, its not the van its the tow vehicles tow capability, if you hitch up and the car and van sag or is a bit springy on the tow you need a WDH

[Pedro_The_Swift]

no,, a set of polyairs (or heaven forbid SLS) would fix that problem,,

[MarknDeb]

thats why we have the SLS and tow a 2.5t van without a WDH and very safely, if i fealt it was the slightest bit dangerous with my family in the car i would fit it

[Pedro_The_Swift]

ahhhhh.;)

[RonMcGr]

"Most people who do not tow Caravans can never see the reason for them"

Not a bad assumption,, "Most people"
How do you know I dont tow a van??
Because I dont have a problem?!?

Simple, if you did tow a Caravan you would not be asking the question, or making silly comments.

[Redback]

Hey you blokes, cut it out:mad:

Ron asked a simple how to question and you blokes hyjacked the thread with your p*$$ing competition.

Go down behind the toilet block after school and work it out:p

OR

BUILD A BRIDGE

Baz.

[harlie]

at least it's easy to tell who tows heavy loads and who dosen't......
I'm yet to meet someone who has tried (properly set up and adjusted) a LDH system and can admit it didn't vastly improve things - And I move in circles where many tow 3t+ every week!

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Simple, if you did tow a Caravan you would not be asking the question, or making silly comments.

and this answers my question how?

you are quite set on the idea that to tow a van you MUST HAVE a WDH.

all I'm asking for is a reasonable reason,, not
just the repeated "if you had one you'd know"

if you just said--because van manufacturers overload towball limits, we'd finally agree and I'd go back to sleep in the corner,,,

and the difference between a 27ft triple axel covered car trailer and a van is what? the aircon inside? pfft.

[MarknDeb]

and this answers my question how?

you are quite set on the idea that to tow a van you MUST HAVE a WDH.

all I'm asking for is a reasonable reason,, not
just the repeated "if you had one you'd know"

if you just said--because van manufacturers overload towball limits, we'd finally agree and I'd go back to sleep in the corner,,,

and the difference between a 27ft triple axel covered car trailer and a van is what? the aircon inside? pfft.

the 27ft triple weighs more :p

[RonMcGr]

Hey you blokes, cut it out:mad:

Ron asked a simple how to question and you blokes hyjacked the thread with your p*$$ing competition.

Go down behind the toilet block after school and work it out:p

OR

BUILD A BRIDGE

Baz.

It is very common in this forum!
I'm beginning to wonder if it is worth staying here any longer.....

[100I]

7420
Last weekend's effort; didn't sway or do anything untoward, just towed like a big trailer with a big boat plonked on it :D. I wasn't taking it easy once I got to the motorways either, I managed an all time low in the economy stakes:p.
Mind you I SUPPOSE that a caravan would be lighter and with big flat sides more susceptible to cross winds.

The only problem was when reversing into it's new parking spot we forgot to lock out the brake and so it was fighting me for a couple of metres with wheels locked till I realised. Sure gonna miss my V8:(.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

I see you managed to catch it in its natural enviroment,,,,:lol2:

[bobslandies]

It is very common in this forum!
I'm beginning to wonder if it is worth staying here any longer.....

Hang in Ron,
You are right - a WDH is a must with any sizable or particularly a tall load. They also reduce sway from the effects of side winds and huge trucks overtaking at a distance of 500mm from the side of a van, enclosed trailer or float. Years ago we used to overtake them - now they are so powerful and pressured into such deadlines that they overtake almost everyone on the road.

Hayman-Reese and other manufacturers haven't spent untold hours in research just to distribute the weight. Just fitting the cheaper spring bars cuts down on van movement and makes the whole rig safer because it tracks better and is more controllable.
The top of the line units have additional torsional and friction sway control devices and shock absorbers. Over-ride braking systems are incompatible with the heavier capacity WDH systems so brakes (electric or vacuum) controllable from the driver's seat are needed with these also.

I cannot understand how some supposedly great off-road hitches fitted to campers and off road caravans are even allowed on the road at road speeds without sway control systems.

Unless you have lot of horsepower available immediately under your right foot you are better and safer with a quality WDH. Anything less is deluding yourself and you can start the countdown to a disaster NOW.

Regards,
Bob

[RonMcGr]

Thanks Bob,

Nice to have some one on my side for once :)
I would not tow a van without a WDH.
We even had one on a 12' Viscount Camper trailer, way back in 1983. Viscount put the axle so far back that it had a hell of a tow ball weight :eek:

Agree about the trucks, a truckie on our Caravan Forum suggested easing the foot of the accelerator as the truck was about to come along side, then pushing it down a little as the truck goes past. It certainly helps, you don't get sucked in so much :D

I have also noticed there is a huge difference towing with a Disco, compared to a Falcon Sedan. The Van can some times push the Falcon around, but not the Disc. It is heavier and more stable :) Apart from a lack of power, I love it for towing.

Cheers,

[harlie]

and this answers my question how?

you are quite set on the idea that to tow a van you MUST HAVE a WDH.

all I'm asking for is a reasonable reason,, not
just the repeated "if you had one you'd know"

if you just said--because van manufacturers overload towball limits, we'd finally agree and I'd go back to sleep in the corner,,,

and the difference between a 27ft triple axel covered car trailer and a van is what? the aircon inside? pfft.

fundamentally nothing. And this 27’ car trailer might tow well. But I bet it will tow better with a LDH (properly setup and adjusted). I assume by you comments you have not properly tried these systems – if this is so I wonder why you are giving advice on how useless they are…. I believe the original post was for info on how to adjust – not for advice on how he’s “got it all wrong”. Very sorry boys but this kind of advice only devalues the quality of information available here.

I associate with many people (friends & clubs) with large heavy trailers of all types including caravans – some choose not to use LDH for various reasons (including me sometimes) like cost , couldn’t be bothered (boat ramp is 600m from home), happy with current handling or pure lack of understanding. But ALL who have properly trialled them admit to the improvements in handling and braking especially at highway speed.
I always use LDH on the highway because I like to take a 3t boat to the Whitsundays (and other destinations) with out causing disruptions to the overnight traffic. Try keeping up with the 100k traffic on the Bruce Highway nth of Gin Gin (corners with 60 rec and very poor surface in places) with out it….. I know people with out LDH - including guys with car trailers - can’t because we catch (and watch them wander all over the road) and pass them.

So to answer your question - it’s NOT a case that a van or boat or car trailer MUST have LDH, it is that some of us have experience of towing with and with out LDH and recognise (and value) their use.

[harlie]

Hang in Ron,
You are right - a WDH is a must with any sizable or particularly a tall load. They also reduce sway from the effects of side winds and huge trucks overtaking at a distance of 500mm from the side of a van, enclosed trailer or float. Years ago we used to overtake them - now they are so powerful and pressured into such deadlines that they overtake almost everyone on the road.

Hayman-Reese and other manufacturers haven't spent untold hours in research just to distribute the weight. Just fitting the cheaper spring bars cuts down on van movement and makes the whole rig safer because it tracks better and is more controllable.
The top of the line units have additional torsional and friction sway control devices and shock absorbers. Over-ride braking systems are incompatible with the heavier capacity WDH systems so brakes (electric or vacuum) controllable from the driver's seat are needed with these also.

I cannot understand how some supposedly great off-road hitches fitted to campers and off road caravans are even allowed on the road at road speeds without sway control systems.

Unless you have lot of horsepower available immediately under your right foot you are better and safer with a quality WDH. Anything less is deluding yourself and you can start the countdown to a disaster NOW.

Regards,
Bob

Here we go - someone who has experience....
Ron & Bob - good advice.

[MarknDeb]

Thanks Bob,

Nice to have some one on my side for once :)



Ron i certainly hope you dont think iam against you on this one mate. On leaf sprung vehicles yes mate they should always be used in conjunction with the appropriate and rated tow bar to suite.

[RonMcGr]

Ron i certainly hope you dont think iam against you on this one mate. On leaf sprung vehicles yes mate they should always be used in conjunction with the appropriate and rated tow bar to suite.

Thanks Mark,

I know you have an interesting Caravan and Tow vehicle :D
Pity you don't have this link in your web page:
Australian Caravan Club - Home (http://www.australiancaravanclub.com.au/index.php)

It is the Caravaners answer to CMCA and growing bigger by the day.

Cheers,

[Redback]

Unbelievable:wallbash::wallbash::wallbash::wallbas h::spudnikwhat::no2:

[MarknDeb]

Sorry it took so long but its been added mate, (had a nanna nap) :D

[harlie]

On leaf sprung vehicles yes mate they should always be used in conjunction with the appropriate and rated tow bar to suite.
Mark – it makes no difference what spring medium is present. It’s not actually about lifting the rear as some here claim, it is about shifting weight back to the front to give the front spring, shocks and steering the weight and rate they are designed for. It ALSO (importantly) provides a strong torsion bond between the car chassis and trailer/van chassis. This second point is what improves the handling and reduces the enormous weight transfer (trailer to rear of car) under emergency braking. (If it was a 5th wheel this weight transfer would be absorbed partially by the front - that's another story of huge leverage advantages)

When I originally test drove a Disco 2 (mid 2000), I arrived at Austral LR at Newsted with a 3t boat. Like the car - now would like to see how it tows. When I returned with salesman as passenger the then sales manager pulled me into his office and admitted that LDH should not be used on SLS D2. Why (I have posted this before) Inadequate (factory) tow bar - the LDH can put too much stress through the tow bar, because the SLS keeps levelling and it’s hard to monitor how much force is being applied. The answer (from Austral LR when I purchased my car) was to fit the Full Hayman Reece Bar and no surprise, underneath it looks like the Disco 1 towbar. Same goes for D3 & RRS (I looked at upgrading) – that (factory) hitch receiver is apparently cast and a few have snapped off – and when I considered it there was no replacement bar. So the “No LDH warning” is because of the receiver not because of the air suspension. Notice there is no warning about RRC vouge or P38A (or dare i say it Prado Grande). Air springs theoretically would benefit more, by nature the air spring has a greater travel/kg to coil & leaf. And if one was to measure air pressure on a “level D3” with large van attached I would expect the rear would be nearly maxed out, and we would be very surprised by how little is in the front.

Mate you are obviously happy with how your D2 tows, understandably too - out of the box (with SLS) in my opinion it eats the Jap vehicles for handling – I believe that at the time one of the 4*4 mags agreed too. I too am of the opinion that my 2000 SLS equipped D2 tows a 3t boat nicely – but with a LDH it tows superbly, to the point where I think I could say it handles through bends and over sh*t roads at highway speeds better than the car on it’s own – must add to that statement that all my trailers have shocks on each wheel. Just seems to slow down heaps on the hills. Can't wait for the return of my reflashed ECU????

[abaddonxi]

Mark – it makes no difference what spring medium is present. It’s not actually about lifting the rear as some here claim, it is about shifting weight back to the front to give the front spring, shocks and steering the weight and rate they are designed for. It ALSO (importantly) provides a strong torsion bond between the car chassis and trailer/van chassis. This second point is what improves the handling and reduces the enormous weight transfer (trailer to rear of car) under emergency braking. (If it was a 5th wheel this weight transfer would be absorbed partially by the front - that's another story of huge leverage advantages)

When I originally test drove a Disco 2 (mid 2000), I arrived at Austral LR at Newsted with a 3t boat. Like the car - now would like to see how it tows. When I returned with salesman as passenger the then sales manager pulled me into his office and admitted that LDH should not be used on SLS D2. Why (I have posted this before) Inadequate (factory) tow bar - the LDH can put too much stress through the tow bar, because the SLS keeps levelling and it’s hard to monitor how much force is being applied. The answer (from Austral LR when I purchased my car) was to fit the Full Hayman Reece Bar and no surprise, underneath it looks like the Disco 1 towbar. Same goes for D3 & RRS (I looked at upgrading) – that (factory) hitch receiver is apparently cast and a few have snapped off – and when I considered it there was no replacement bar. So the “No LDH warning” is because of the receiver not because of the air suspension. Notice there is no warning about RRC vouge or P38A (or dare i say it Prado Grande). Air springs theoretically would benefit more, by nature the air spring has a greater travel/kg to coil & leaf. And if one was to measure air pressure on a “level D3” with large van attached I would expect the rear would be nearly maxed out, and we would be very surprised by how little is in the front.

Mate you are obviously happy with how your D2 tows, understandably too - out of the box (with SLS) in my opinion it eats the Jap vehicles for handling – I believe that at the time one of the 4*4 mags agreed too. I too am of the opinion that my 2000 SLS equipped D2 tows a 3t boat nicely – but with a LDH it tows superbly, to the point where I think I could say it handles through bends and over sh*t roads at highway speeds better than the car on it’s own – must add to that statement that all my trailers have shocks on each wheel. Just seems to slow down heaps on the hills. Can't wait for the return of my reflashed ECU????


And p38arover was asking about using a LDH with a P38a.

Cheers
Simon

[MarknDeb]

Ahhh yes mate i did make the mistake of saying "leaf Sprung" and i should have just said sprung.

Very interesting what you say about yours, I was told over the phone by LR Australia to not use the WDH with SLS because the lifting action tricks the air SLS that there is already suficience air in the bags, i could understand this as explained and made very good sense.
Away from the LR but same thing is we took delivery of 2 new Ali 45 ft trailers at work, we lock them onto compactors so to be loaded, when we lock on 2 binder arms engage the sides with 2 buffer cylinders pushing the trailer to keep it tight. When the trailer is full and we unlock it (22t load) the trailer is coming down and sitting on a concrete wall under it until the SLS readjusts the hight. The engineers have aknowledged we have a problem with the trailer beeing fooled into thinking it is still at ride height thus no air beeing pumped in to keep the presure up.

[RonMcGr]

And p38arover was asking about using a LDH with a P38a.

Cheers
Simon

Yes, and we tried to answer.
What followed was "beyond expectation"..

[p38arover]

Ron,

There should be hooks on the caravan draw bar that the bars sit in.
http://www.goseeaustralia.com.au/article_pics/coromal2.jpg

Thank Ron. I looked and found the brackets and fitted them as per your pic. I wasn't sure whether to use 2 or 4 bars so I opted for 2.

[p38arover]

That size van ( I assume it is the one you have posted pics of previously) should tow behind the P38 without bars (I am also assuming it is empty).
Just make sure you have appropriate ball weight and the Rangie suspension locked at one height.

Yes, that was the van.

I towed it behind my daughter's 300Tdi Disco. I needed the room in the Disco for load carrying - she has a cargo barrier.

I found the Disco overheats when towing up long hills - up to the top of the white area on the temp gauge but not into the red (I'd stop before that) - so I guess the radiator needs to come out.

The Disco is a slug up hills with a caravan. I don't think I could tow one around Oz on holidays! Fuel consumption was 14 litres/100 from Dubbo to Sydney - more that the Nissan Civilian bus when loaded (it uses 13 litres/100km).

I'll try the van with the P38A before I take it to Cooma.

From the short trip in with the van and a few trips with the Civilian, Elisabeth and I are convinced that caravanning is not a pleasure and the Civilian would be better - and neither are as good as driving to a motel and sleeping there!

Ron

[p38arover]

And p38arover was asking about using a LDH with a P38a.

Actually, I didn't specify the vehicle. I arrived at Dubbo with the Disco and found the WDH stuff with the van so I thought I should use them.

Empty, the van is so nose heavy that it is near impossible to lift the draw bar.

When I coupled it to the Disco, the Disco dropped 2 cm at the rear wheel arch. Adding 2 bars only lifted the Disco by 0.5 cm.

I once towed a car trailer loaded with an XC Falcon wagon 4WD with my FJ55 LC. The trailer was very tail heavy and I was inexperienced. Going down into Mooney Mooney, the trailer got up such a sway that it came around and dented the side of the Cruiser - true! (unfortunately, my son isn't here to confirm it). I don't know how we missed hitting other cars but it must have scared the living daylights out of them.

[bobslandies]

From the short trip in with the van and a few trips with the Civilian, Elisabeth and I are convinced that caravanning is not a pleasure and the Civilian would be better - and neither are as good as driving to a motel and sleeping there!

Ron

Hi Ron,
I used to love my rusty Toyota Coaster - better than tents, sleeping in the back of the Land Rover, caravans, camping areas and caravan parks and cheaper than motels and with the bonus of inexpensive registration when registered as a Motorhome. So much so I've now got another one from west of the sandstone curtain to rebuild with my fitout....and run on lpg.
If you can keep the Civilian for touring you'll find it comfortable and economical. It should qualify for the lpg conversion subsidy if a motorhome too I believe.
A friend has a Mazda bus motorhome, 351 Cleveland, 5 speed dual range gearbox, runs on gas and surprises people when he passes them uphill towing a loaded car trailer.
Good you worked out the sway bar setup for the van.
See you in Cooma,
Regards,
Bob

[abaddonxi]

:oops2:

Cheers
Simon

[p38arover]

Hi Ron,
I used to love my rusty Toyota Coaster - better than tents, sleeping in the back of the Land Rover, caravans, camping areas and caravan parks and cheaper than motels and with the bonus of inexpensive registration when registered as a Motorhome. So much so I've now got another one from west of the sandstone curtain to rebuild with my fitout....and run on lpg.
If you can keep the Civilian for touring you'll find it comfortable and economical. It should qualify for the lpg conversion subsidy if a motorhome too I believe.

It's a diesel so it's economical enough. It has only 8000 km on the clock (it's 20 years old). In which State are you located? I'm interested in the cheap rego bit.

As a tourer, it would need a better passenger seat. There is no leg room for the Pax.

I'm not convinced it would be cheaper than a motel - except in northern WA where a dive of a room costs more than 3 stars in NSW. I like the idea of driving in comfort in the P38A to a clean room with aircon and a shower and a big bed and TV and room to move...

However, as my wife said, when camping one does meet more people than when staying in a motel or hotel.

[bobslandies]

Hi Ron,
In NSW.

I tried to find details on the RTA website for you but it's obviously meant to be kept a secret. Anyway, if the vehicle has selfcontained cooking and sleeping facilities it can qualify as a motorhome and is designated MH on the body style. Probably needs an engineering and gas installation certification by a plumber unless it's been blue plated in Qld or registered as such before.

I think a few years ago the Coaster was about the same cost as a station wagon, irrespective of being 2700kg tare, 4900kg GVM. Certainly was cheaper than a Land Rover 109 Station Wagon.
Bob

[p38arover]

Thanks Bob. I'll chase it up. It's been blue plated in Qld but not as MH.

I'd like to keep it registered there to avoid annual inspections - so it might need to move to a mate's farm in Qld. I've got nowhere to store it here. Also, I had assumed the NSW rego costs would be much higher than Qld.