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wayneg
18th March 2008, 11:10 AM
Hi all, I am new to this forum but not to RR ownership.
I have not long purchased a "do-er-upper of e-bay , a Nov 93 Vouge SE with 220k. Plenty of bills for top engine re-build, coil spring conversion, new water pump, she was left standing for a while following a bereavement......She runs great on LPG but a bit lumpy on petrol. My problem is the O/S rear hub inner seal is leaking and hypoid is getting up into the wheel bearings and then out onto the disc. I stripped it all down and replaced the seals and its still leaking ( but a whole lot less). I recall that the inner seal seemed a very loose fit on the outer edge. Has anyone experienced this. The seal is 100% correct and a genuine part, I have also drained the axle of hypoid and re-filled with Lucas Oil, like treacle, it still leaks past the seal. The axle breather is clear. I am thinking that applying some sort of sealing agent onto the outer surface of the seal may be my only option. any suggestions or similar experience?

PLR
18th March 2008, 11:29 PM
G`day Wayne

Is the new seal double lipped ?

Did you mount the new seal in the same place as the old one ?

Did you look for any marks in the hub ?

Cheers

wayneg
19th March 2008, 10:12 AM
PLR, cant recall if the lip was double or single, is there a choice? I actually took the hub into the main dealers when buying the seals as It was a fair trip which I did not want to do twice. The seal is against the half shaft which looked in perfect shape, the only thing I am thinking is the outer edge of the seal seated in the hub did not seam that tight hence the question regarding an assembly sealant?

Utemad
19th March 2008, 10:45 AM
The double lip seal seal is to keep the oil in the hub when you remove the axle seal to have oil lubed wheel bearings.

If you have an axle seal and want greased wheel bearings then the seal you need to stop leaking is the axle seal. However oil leaking from a new hub seal means that water can get in easily in crossings. Hence the double lipped hub seal is still a good idea.

wayneg
19th March 2008, 12:37 PM
The double lip seal seal is to keep the oil in the hub when you remove the axle seal to have oil lubed wheel bearings.



Have I got this right?
The half shaft/hub inner seal can be removed allowing gear oil into the bearings (whats happening now) and the axle seal which previously held grease back can be replaced with a double lipped upgrade. Do you know the part number or a source.

Utemad
19th March 2008, 01:30 PM
That's right.

The seal is RTC3511. Available from any Land Rover parts supplier and no doubt elsewhere as well.

wayneg
19th March 2008, 03:42 PM
That's right.

The seal is RTC3511. Available from any Land Rover parts supplier and no doubt elsewhere as well.
Thanks for that info I will get onto it. I Just did a quick google on "RTC3511" and hit......

Tech Tip: we recommend using RTC3511 hub seals even if you don't eliminate the axle case seal. This is a double lip seal and a vast improvement over the seal currently specified by Land Rover. When Land Rover added the axle case seal they used a much less effective hub seal because the wheel bearing now specified only requires wheel bearing grease for the bearings. Wheel bearing grease is very easy to seal in because it doesn't go anywhere ie: it doesn't flow. The problem is the current specified seal isn't very effective at sealing things out such as water - hence the risk premature of wheel bearing failure! When installing RTC3511 hub seals, recess them 3mm into the hub or you will get a false reading on your wheel bearing preload.

PLR
19th March 2008, 06:58 PM
PLR, cant recall if the lip was double or single, is there a choice? I actually took the hub into the main dealers when buying the seals as It was a fair trip which I did not want to do twice. The seal is against the half shaft which looked in perfect shape, the only thing I am thinking is the outer edge of the seal seated in the hub did not seam that tight hence the question regarding an assembly sealant?

G`day Wayne

Sounds like Justins helped you sort it .

The usual seals for yours are single lip , just a notal looking seal with 1 flta side and the other with the spring , a double is as it sounds .

The other 2 questions were because it`s best not to run a new seal on exactly the same place , it only needs to be a couple of mm one way and it runs on untouched hub surface which gives it a much better chance of sealing .

The fitting of the double is different to the single and if you already have a double and it`s no fitted right it will leak .

I know you should be able to trust the people who should know but sometimes it`s not warranted .

Cheers

BigJon
19th March 2008, 08:10 PM
The apprentice and I just replaced all rear bearings and seals on my 87 build Range Rover.
Oil lubed bearings, but with grease type hub seals! No leaks, but the bearings were knackered. Old age, I suspect.
I have absolutely no idea how many km they had done, I have never touched them before (3 years ownership with lots of kms done).

I used RTC3511 hub seals and also the outer hub seals were renewed. I don't think they actually do much (sealed axle ends), but I had access to them, so in they went.

wayneg
19th March 2008, 08:48 PM
The other 2 questions were because it`s best not to run a new seal on exactly the same place , it only needs to be a couple of mm one way and it runs on untouched hub surface which gives it a much better chance of sealing.

Cheers

Thanks for your input, now I know the answer to my question its obviously a no brainer not to fit the early type seal, I just wish I had know this info before I did it the first time, oil getting onto the brake disc is not a good thing, only positive is that on inspection the discs and pads appeared very new (fronts as well) with no signs of wear, i decided to leave in the old pads, they have oil on them again so this time I will put in new pads as well, I would be doubly ****ed if I had to replace the pads twice! I just had a gut feeling something was not right.

PLR
19th March 2008, 09:23 PM
Thanks for your input, now I know the answer to my question its obviously a no brainer not to fit the early type seal, I just wish I had know this info before I did it the first time, oil getting onto the brake disc is not a good thing, only positive is that on inspection the discs and pads appeared very new (fronts as well) with no signs of wear, i decided to leave in the old pads, they have oil on them again so this time I will put in new pads as well, I would be doubly ****ed if I had to replace the pads twice! I just had a gut feeling something was not right.

G`day Wayne

You wern`t to know if you`ve not come across them but it`s a bit dissapointing that the people you worked through didn`t make you aware of the option .

The same thing mentioned above may apply with the placement of the seal you have whichever it is but i guess if it has to come apart to move the seal it may as well have a double lipper .

In my previous post the Edit button code for notal is normal and flta is flat .

cheers

wayneg
19th March 2008, 09:41 PM
You wern`t to know if you`ve not come across them but it`s a bit dissapointing that the people you worked through didn`t make you aware of the option .

cheers

Only people I spoke to was the main dealer`s store man, thay are not knowns as STEALERS for nothing. I am old enough to know better and should have done a bit of research. You know what its like when you have done the job before on another car, you think you know it all, at least I did.

Dougal
23rd March 2008, 10:26 AM
When installing RTC3511 hub seals, recess them 3mm into the hub or you will get a false reading on your wheel bearing preload.

Just to emphasis this point.
You need to install the seal so the whole seal is just inside the steel rim of the hub. Otherwise the outer lip will damage itself on the stub shaft and not keep oil in and water out.

Waxenwane
3rd April 2008, 09:31 PM
It is also a good idea to apply silicone to the outside of the oil seal, especially if yours is a loose-ish fit. While the hub is off inspect the seal diameter on the stub axle and gently polish with some wet and dry paper (this is best done in a lathe) but can be done succesfully by hand.

Good luck with it

PLR
7th April 2008, 08:39 PM
G`day Wayne

Yesterday i put new rear pads in ours , the first side was ok .

The other side one pad had oil on , this side i fitted a new seal ( double )about 3 yrs ago .

Didn`t have a new seal so the remedy was to refit the seal about another 2mm in so it ran on a different part of the hub .

The car did around 400km today and when wife got home checked and no sign of oil anywhere so a short , long term fix with luck at no cost , a bonus .

Will get some new seals to have on hand though . ( if i remember )

Cheers