low coolant warning light

[wells]

hi all , yesterday the low water level light on my 89 RR came on , water level is fine but it just keep flashing at me , any one had this issue ?? and how did you stop that dam light ???

[Rangier Rover]

hi all , yesterday the low water level light on my 89 RR came on , water level is fine but it just keep flashing at me , any one had this issue ?? and how did you stop that dam light ??? Yes, many times. The seder is in th top of the expansion tank. It may be sus. Pull the plug and bridge it with a paper clip. The light should go out. If this works the seder will need replacing. They are not cheap:o and don't seem to last. An after maket jobie may be best option. Look at the coolant level often ontil fixed. The Rangies don't like being cooked.;)

[wells]

will do , thanks .

[Rangier Rover]

Yes, many times. The seder is in th top of the expansion tank. It may be sus. Pull the plug and bridge it with a paper clip. The light should go out. If this works the seder will need replacing. They are not cheap:o and don't seem to last. An after maket jobie may be best option. Look at the coolant level often ontil fixed. The Rangies don't like being cooked.;)Wil_ som_ on_ tur_ th_ edi_ fun_tion bac_ on for :censored: Sake!;) I'm always in a rush and mis the typo. Tend to fix later. I've seen why Its off... Dammm it.:mad:

[wayneg]

hi all , yesterday the low water level light on my 89 RR came on , water level is fine but it just keep flashing at me , any one had this issue ?? and how did you stop that dam light ???
I inherited the same problem, on inspection the float on the sender was crumbling away and seemed to be waterlogged. I trimmed away about 1cm from the bottom of the float and cut a piece of a fishing float into a horse shoe shape and fitted it under the original float, it does not look pretty but it works. I would just make sure the sender is working first by manually holding up the float to see if the light goes out.

[Wallyb]

The Sender is repairable. Typically they get water in them and corrode.

The inside consits of a magnetic reed switch and a resistor in series. The outside ring is magnetic. So as the ring goes up or down it opens and closes the reed switch.

If you are careful and use something like a scalple you can seperate the seperate the top from the bottom cylinder, alowing the removal of the reed/resistor.

Similar parts can be purchased from Dick Smiths etc. I couldnt read the value of the resistor when I repaired mine but used a 100 ohm 1/2 watt replacement which worked fine.

Make sure you measure distance of the reed from the top and place it at the same distance when you rebuild.

Solder up, reseal and put it back. $3 of bits .. 30mins work.

Cheers