Who has 285 tyres on there Defender?

[MacFamily]

Just wondering who has 285 75 tyres on there defender....

Have you done any suspension mods eg 2" lift or coil spacers?

Also did you use 16 x 7 or 16 x 8 rims?

Was looking at a set of disco 1 rims 16 x7 as I wanted to stick with landrover rims and also prefer to use steel wheels in case they get damaged eg.. bent eaiser to repair in the bush.But I think when I lower the presure for offroad no lower then 18psi there would be a greater risk of the bead rolling off the rim on a 16 x 7 rather then a 16 x 8.
I also relise it is mostly likely to be illegal to have this size tyre on a defender:(. Iam not sure what size they come out of the factory with but I have 235 75 on the old girl at the moment.

Iam just doing a bit of research at the moment as i relise when going bigger tyres also cause a whole bunch of other problems eg transfer gearing, rubbing on guards and flares, extra weight on the rear door with bigger tyres (wheel carrier) ect ect.

Any help would be good, done a search found a couple of post with 35's and even 37's :eek:...

Cheers Azza

[Slunnie]

285/75-16 need to go on 8" rims for just about all of them. Some Mickey Thompsons might be an exception.

[rar110]

235/85, 255/85 and 265/75 should all fit on 7 inch rims, and are all taller than 235/75. AFAIK 235/85 or 7.5R16 are standard size for defender. 265/75 is wider but about the same diameter depending on brand/tread. 255/85 is taller and wider than 235/85.

The only thing putting me off 255/85 is availability in the bush if one gets destroyed. 235/85 and 265/75 are much more common.

[Yorkshire_Jon]

Just wondering who has 285 75 tyres on there defender....

Have you done any suspension mods eg 2" lift or coil spacers?

Also did you use 16 x 7 or 16 x 8 rims?

Was looking at a set of disco 1 rims 16 x7 as I wanted to stick with landrover rims and also prefer to use steel wheels in case they get damaged eg.. bent eaiser to repair in the bush.But I think when I lower the presure for offroad no lower then 18psi there would be a greater risk of the bead rolling off the rim on a 16 x 7 rather then a 16 x 8.
I also relise it is mostly likely to be illegal to have this size tyre on a defender:(. Iam not sure what size they come out of the factory with but I have 235 75 on the old girl at the moment.

Iam just doing a bit of research at the moment as i relise when going bigger tyres also cause a whole bunch of other problems eg transfer gearing, rubbing on guards and flares, extra weight on the rear door with bigger tyres (wheel carrier) ect ect.

Any help would be good, done a search found a couple of post with 35's and even 37's :eek:...

Cheers Azza

255x85 are about as big as you can go on 7" rims, but you need to check with the tyre manufacturer to be sure.
At that size you need a bit of a lift to stop rubbing under articulation. You will also need wheels with a small offset. Disco steels will rob most of your turning circle as the offset on them is (relitavely) massive.


If your worried about low pressure's you could always fit a set of Staun beadlock's.


As for wheel carriers; yes you need to take it off the back door. A swing away is your minimum, and possible also look at something like a Kaymar carrier where all the load is on the rear crossmember.


If you go upto 255x85's then the grearing shouldnt really be a problem, so long as you havent got the Disco 1.2 gears in the T/Box as well, even if you have you'll be OK, it'll just be a little more lethargic.

[Bushranger]

seriously!

What's wrong with the ones that LR selected?

:)

[rick130]

seriously!

What's wrong with the ones that LR selected?

:)

and what's wrong with changing to a different size ?

285/75's gain you more clearance under the diffs, and more traction all round as there is more rubber on the ground compared to 7.50/16's or 235/85's.
Also potentially more wear/greater chance of breaking something, but as in everything, you don't get something for nothing.

[Col.Coleman]

What's all the hoo ha about wide tyres? They make your car drive like crap, aquaplane and swerve when you hit puddles, you rip the sidewalls out on ruts and rocks and generally look naff. I'll take my skinnies any day. As the pressure drops they elongate rather than widen giving a better footprint, you wide guys make wide ruts so my sidewalls don't suffer and in anything other than sink hole slop actually dig down to the hard stuff underneath instead of floating all while slinging less crap all over my pride and joy. More mud means more weight. Case in point is have a look at pro mud racers or mud rally tyres. sorry guys but they are large diameter and skinny. Widies are for street cars and poofters in landcruisers. Ooops did I say something wrong?

[rick130]

What's all the hoo ha about wide tyres? They make your car drive like crap, aquaplane and swerve when you hit puddles, you rip the sidewalls out on ruts and rocks and generally look naff. I'll take my skinnies any day. As the pressure drops they elongate rather than widen giving a better footprint, you wide guys make wide ruts so my sidewalls don't suffer and in anything other than sink hole slop actually dig down to the hard stuff underneath instead of floating all while slinging less crap all over my pride and joy. More mud means more weight. Case in point is have a look at pro mud racers or mud rally tyres. sorry guys but they are large diameter and skinny. Widies are for street cars and poofters in landcruisers. Ooops did I say something wrong?

And pray tell, what do you consider the 'right' size ?

How wide is too wide ?

What height ?


ALL tyres elongate the contact patch when deflated.

A larger contact patch gives more traction on a hard surface. Period.

Sidewalls more prone to ripping if a tyre's wide ?? Please.

You keep talking about mud, but what about rocks and sand and the thing most people send time on, Bitumen ? A bigger contact patch equates to better cornering and braking.

By your reasoning, we should all go back to 6.00/16 bar treads, we'd be better off.
When I was a kid, a 7.50/16 was considered a big tyre, 235/85/16's didn't exist and would have been considered big and the then new 31/10.5/15's were considered a US aberration. (anyone remember Desert Dogs ??) These days 265/75/16's is a standard size on most all large 4wd's, including the 90 and is at least an inch taller than the old 31/10/15. 235/85/16 is the standard LT/farm ute size.

Times change, 4wd's get bigger and much, much heavier. Tyre technology, both construction and compounding forges ahead in leaps and bounds. Old stereotypes fall by the wayside.

[gf110]

G'day Azza

I'm running Mickey Thompson 285/75 MTZ's on my Defender. Set up with ~1.0" lift and procomp 16x8 rockcrawler wheels with 4.25" backspace. With this backspace the turning circle is better than std but you will need to extend your wheel arches if you want it engineered. On full articulation the tyres just kiss the outside lip of the original wheel arch flares.

In my experience and on the terrain I drive the 285's walk all over the 235/85's I previously ran.

Cheers

[discowhite]

And pray tell, what do you consider the 'right' size ?

How wide is too wide ?

What height ?


ALL tyres elongate the contact patch when deflated.

A larger contact patch gives more traction on a hard surface. Period.

Sidewalls more prone to ripping if a tyre's wide ?? Please.

You keep talking about mud, but what about rocks and sand and the thing most people send time on, Bitumen ? A bigger contact patch equates to better cornering and braking.

By your reasoning, we should all go back to 6.00/16 bar treads, we'd be better off.
When I was a kid, a 7.50/16 was considered a big tyre, 235/85/16's didn't exist and would have been considered big and the then new 31/10.5/15's were considered a US aberration. (anyone remember Desert Dogs ??) These days 265/75/16's is a standard size on most all large 4wd's, including the 90 and is at least an inch taller than the old 31/10/15. 235/85/16 is the standard LT/farm ute size.

Times change, 4wd's get bigger and much, much heavier. Tyre technology, both construction and compounding forges ahead in leaps and bounds. Old stereotypes fall by the wayside.


my thoughts exactly! im a poofter with 285's on my 90:mad:
and they dont do any of the things you mention!
also i reckon ide be able to get a 285 75 R16 ANYWHERE in oz!

cheers phil

oh and for answers to what this topic is asking.... i have 86mm back space and a 3'' lift. but note. disco and 90 both have 6'' dia rear coils the 110 is larger in diameter, so at least 30mm more than standard would be required.

[discowhite]

the above post isnt directed at rick either!

dam that edit button....
cheers phil

[Bushranger]

What's all the hoo ha about wide tyres? They make your car drive like crap, aquaplane and swerve when you hit puddles, you rip the sidewalls out on ruts and rocks and generally look naff. I'll take my skinnies any day. As the pressure drops they elongate rather than widen giving a better footprint, you wide guys make wide ruts so my sidewalls don't suffer and in anything other than sink hole slop actually dig down to the hard stuff underneath instead of floating all while slinging less crap all over my pride and joy. More mud means more weight. Case in point is have a look at pro mud racers or mud rally tyres. sorry guys but they are large diameter and skinny. Widies are for street cars and poofters in landcruisers. Ooops did I say something wrong?

Nah Col, your on the money! :o

Bushranger

[Slunnie]

Thats quite interesting. Interco, who manufacturer some of the best offroad tyres in the world, with tyres like the super swamper and arguably the best mud tyre going around being the Bogger. Pretty much the narrowest tyre you can get is about 9" wide, most being between 10.5" and 13.5 - 15" wide. The Bogger doesn't come any narrower than 10.5" and goes out to 20". There is no 7.50's in the catalogue, they're just Ag tyres that are built with lots of plys and not much more.
Interco Tires :: Interco Tire (http://www.intercotire.com/site24.php)

So I check out the Mickey Thompson tyres, who probably produce the next best tyres for drive, and the narrowest Bias Claw available in Aus is 13.5" wide going out to 19.5". For the Radial Claw, the narrowest available is 10.5" wide. Still no skinnies in there!
Mickey Thompson - World's Toughest Traction Tyres! (http://www.mickeythompsontires.com.au/tyres/baja_claw.htm)

Next awesome muddy maker I check out was Simex! They're renowned for making skinnies and again awesome mud tyres.
They have a regular mud tyre which is marked 7.50R16, but measures 8.7" wide, and another that is a 29" dia tyre, but every other tyre in their range actually measure between 10.5" and 13.4".
Dynamic 4x4, Simex 4x4, Sime 4x4, General tire, Dynamic Wheels, Sime, Grabber, Extreme Trekker, Wheels (http://www.simex4x4.com/html/s02_article/article_view.asp?id=106&nav_cat_id=127&nav_top_id=55&dsb=55)

Sooo, somehow I don't think the manufacturers of proper muds seem to think that skinnies are better in the mud. :D

[Michele]

I fitted Interco SSRs 2 (?) years ago as "all around" tires,they rub on the radius arms and reduce turning radius (7X16" alloys-not LR),this may be annoying sometimes but you can live with it...road manners are good,although I tend to drive slow :angel:

I still have the RRC HD springs front which give a less than desiderable steering,but I guess you can fit the tires with no lift at all at the expense on some minimal rubbing...

[Col.Coleman]

And pray tell, what do you consider the 'right' size ?

How wide is too wide ?

What height ?


ALL tyres elongate the contact patch when deflated.

A larger contact patch gives more traction on a hard surface. Period.

Sidewalls more prone to ripping if a tyre's wide ?? Please.

You keep talking about mud, but what about rocks and sand and the thing most people send time on, Bitumen ? A bigger contact patch equates to better cornering and braking.

By your reasoning, we should all go back to 6.00/16 bar treads, we'd be better off.
When I was a kid, a 7.50/16 was considered a big tyre, 235/85/16's didn't exist and would have been considered big and the then new 31/10.5/15's were considered a US aberration. (anyone remember Desert Dogs ??) These days 265/75/16's is a standard size on most all large 4wd's, including the 90 and is at least an inch taller than the old 31/10/15. 235/85/16 is the standard LT/farm ute size.

Times change, 4wd's get bigger and much, much heavier. Tyre technology, both construction and compounding forges ahead in leaps and bounds. Old stereotypes fall by the wayside.

Settle down guys we are comparing apples and oranges here.

My Interests are in long distance travel so I have Different requirements to putting around on the weekend. I use my vehicle to take me to the places I want to see then get out and walk, I don't feel the need to drive over everything I see. I drive on everything from bitumen to rocks, sand and mud.

I use mud tyres for offroad grip and toughness of construction. In these sizes the road noise is not noticable inside the cab with the air on, rolling resistance is much less than the wider ones in the aggressive treads(how's your fuel economy?), I pepper my car with less rocks on the gibber roads, am more precise with wheel placement in the tough stuff. On black soil roads and clay you want more wieght per square inch to dig down not float(up to a certain point, but after that the road is probably closed,flooded, you get fined for ripping it up or you are not getting through in anything anyway).

Legally I have no problems with main roads, my insurance company or police. Once you start modifying one thing where does it end? As a number of you have said you have reduced steering lock, tyres rub on this and that and you need to lift to gain back the clearence you had. This decreases your stability and at nearly 3.5ton loaded doing 110 in marbles that is something I don't want to give up for a fly**** more grip or clearance to get over something on the weekend that lets face it I don't really need to.

The widest tyre I prefer is 235/85r16. This size is the metric replacement for the 7.5016 but is actually a larger tyre(nearly 32inch and wider). Michelin don't import that in their muds so I use the 7.50. In the wheel ruts my tyres stay away from the rut sides where the rocks lay to stake your sidewalls. It is the jamming of big tyres into narrow ruts and the weight of the vehicle and drive forces snagging the sidewalls that tears them out. Stay away from it and there is less risk.

Taking into account the section v diameter equation the skinnies produce a longer rather than wider footprint which is better for floating your vehicle in sand. In a wheel track you are then traveling on the already compacted sand rather than constantly pushing through the soft stuff. The wider front section has to push through more sand creating more driveline stress and heat in the diff and gearbox/transfer case and uses alot more power hence more fuel. Not too great on the Canning. Of course there will allways be a situation where a little more float would be nice, but there is no 1 solution to everything or everyone would have the exact same tyre.

Contact patch gives grip, yes. But carcass construction, type, sidewall stiffness and tread compound give cornering ability and braking. Bigger isn't neccesarily better, just bigger.

Old cross plies were crap on the road but were very good off it. Bridgestone and Dunlop as well as a few others still make them prdominatly for light trucks and farm equipment that spend 100% of the time off road. I looked at some for my 4wd Canter.

Times change yes and modern 4wds are actually getting more car like and less capable, have less payload and towing ability. The tyres are wider and more like passenger car tyres than light truck.

That's why I drive a Defender. They got it pretty much right first up. Landrover have alot more money to test things than I do and the defenders still come out with skinnies on them. Good enough for me.

Nothing here is personal, just some of the reasons why I choose what I choose. If all the effort and mods in your opinion is worth the effort then go for it. Just bear in mind that there are so many different makes and models of everything out there and we all swear by different stuff, but we all seem to get to the same places no matter what we use. At the end of the day we all drive Landies.

[rick130]

<snip> Just bear in mind that there are so many different makes and models of everything out there and we all swear by different stuff, but we all seem to get to the same places no matter what we use. At the end of the day we all drive Landies.

absolutely true, and we belong to a very broad church, but saying what you said you didn't think it would go unanswered, did you :twisted:

Did I mention I don't even run wide tyres ?
or at least I don't consider 255/85's wide :p

[MacFamily]

Thanx for all your replys guys...

Iam just looking at my options as it is a family wagon/tourer not a rock crawler I still want to keep it practical.The hardest part is telling the missus that it needs to be practical if it was up to her it would have 6" lift and 35" tyres :o she just likes to be bigger then everyone else on the road.

My last 4by landcruiser ute (opps ) :D had 4" lift and 33" tyres and she loved driving that but it was also my toy and went alot of places that the big boys went but now I just want a Tourer.Ill get another toy for the crazy stuff one day.:twisted:

Thanx again Azza

[def-90]

i had 285/75's MTR's on my 130 and they were one of the best tyres i've had, ate all over my 235/85's and 255/85's in handling, comfort, wet roads, both on and off road!! they are not a wide tyre, around a 33.3 x 10.5 i'd say, they were clearly taller then my mates 33x12.50 MTR

they were mated to 16x7 disco steel rims with an additional 20mm or so offest added (rewelded the bands) i used to run them at around 8-10psi offroad and never popped a bead or had a flat! had about a 2" or so lift and pretty good flex, locked rear, etc

however i've had 33 x 12.50 MTR's and hated every second of them, noisy and handled like crap!

by the way you only 2" of lift for some 35's:twisted: just a bit of flare trimming thats all:D

[Col.Coleman]

Working in a restaurant I have big pots with even bigger spoons to stir with.:tease:

Old habits die hard

These conversations go alot better with beer.:twobeers:

Forgot to mention I used to pit crew for Super Sedan Speedway and hand groove all the tyres and work out tyre selection, pressures, wheel offsets, diameters and compounds. With more than 30 tyres per corner to choose from and regrooving and recutting between races I formed a special bond with our black rubber donut friends.

Also ride motorbikes. Fast. Tyres aren't right, IT HURTS ALOT.

[Dungie]

I have 285-75 B/F/G A/Ts mounted on 16x8 Pro Comp steel rims on a 98 Defender. It has a 2' lift and they do touch the outter lip of the flares some times. On the up side compared against my GPS my speedo is now very accurate. Fuel comsumption still averages 10.5L/100KM. I am very happy with this wheel tyre combination.

[mitch]

i have 35x12.5x15 BFG Muds on unknown 15x8 steel rims. not even 2" lift and they only scrub on the front edge of the rear plastic flares.

-takes me where i want to go
-looks tough :D
-sounds like a plane taking off on the freeway
-is totally illegal

but i still love it, worrying about handling in a rover is funny... nomatter what tyres you have on it will be terrible so you might as well get the ones that look sweet :D

[Aaron]

Thats the spirit!

[isuzurover]

My Interests are in long distance travel so I have Different requirements to putting around on the weekend. I use my vehicle to take me to the places I want to see then get out and walk, I don't feel the need to drive over everything I see. I drive on everything from bitumen to rocks, sand and mud.

I use mud tyres for offroad grip and toughness of construction. In these sizes the road noise is not noticable inside the cab with the air on, rolling resistance is much less than the wider ones in the aggressive treads(how's your fuel economy?), I pepper my car with less rocks on the gibber roads, am more precise with wheel placement in the tough stuff. On black soil roads and clay you want more wieght per square inch to dig down not float(up to a certain point, but after that the road is probably closed,flooded, you get fined for ripping it up or you are not getting through in anything anyway).

Legally I have no problems with main roads, my insurance company or police. Once you start modifying one thing where does it end? As a number of you have said you have reduced steering lock, tyres rub on this and that and you need to lift to gain back the clearence you had. This decreases your stability and at nearly 3.5ton loaded doing 110 in marbles that is something I don't want to give up for a fly**** more grip or clearance to get over something on the weekend that lets face it I don't really need to.

The widest tyre I prefer is 235/85r16. This size is the metric replacement for the 7.5016 but is actually a larger tyre(nearly 32inch and wider). Michelin don't import that in their muds so I use the 7.50. In the wheel ruts my tyres stay away from the rut sides where the rocks lay to stake your sidewalls. It is the jamming of big tyres into narrow ruts and the weight of the vehicle and drive forces snagging the sidewalls that tears them out. Stay away from it and there is less risk.

Taking into account the section v diameter equation the skinnies produce a longer rather than wider footprint which is better for floating your vehicle in sand. In a wheel track you are then traveling on the already compacted sand rather than constantly pushing through the soft stuff. The wider front section has to push through more sand creating more driveline stress and heat in the diff and gearbox/transfer case and uses alot more power hence more fuel. Not too great on the Canning. Of course there will allways be a situation where a little more float would be nice, but there is no 1 solution to everything or everyone would have the exact same tyre.

Contact patch gives grip, yes. But carcass construction, type, sidewall stiffness and tread compound give cornering ability and braking. Bigger isn't neccesarily better, just bigger.

Old cross plies were crap on the road but were very good off it. Bridgestone and Dunlop as well as a few others still make them prdominatly for light trucks and farm equipment that spend 100% of the time off road. I looked at some for my 4wd Canter.

Times change yes and modern 4wds are actually getting more car like and less capable, have less payload and towing ability. The tyres are wider and more like passenger car tyres than light truck.

That's why I drive a Defender. They got it pretty much right first up. Landrover have alot more money to test things than I do and the defenders still come out with skinnies on them. Good enough for me.

Nothing here is personal, just some of the reasons why I choose what I choose. If all the effort and mods in your opinion is worth the effort then go for it. Just bear in mind that there are so many different makes and models of everything out there and we all swear by different stuff, but we all seem to get to the same places no matter what we use. At the end of the day we all drive Landies.

Col - I used to think along the same lines as you (was running 235s on my IIA). Then I tried a set of 255/85s, and was impressed by the extra clearance they offered under the salisbury offroad. They tyres I wanted (MTRs) weren't available in 255, so I had to go to 285/75s. However I must say that they TRANSFORMED the handling and capability of the vehicle for the better - both on and off road. The landie felt more stable on road, and had better traction, and offroad the difference was almost unbelievable. They made a much bigger difference than fitting the locker did. Part of the difference is probably due to the compond, but the rest is the wider (and larger diameter) tyre.

When I bought my 110 county (also fitted with 235s), I tried my 285s on that landie as well. Same effect, handling, stability and traction on-road was so much better.

I recently did a 7000km trip across Australia (albeit 75% sealed roads) on my 285 MTRs. The 4x4 that was with us was fitted with 225s, and staked 2 tyres on the trip. I had no problems. For more remote trips I would probably use a more standard size though.

The ONLY downsides I have found are:
slight increase in road noise (but this is more dependant on tread pattern)
heavier and larger wheel
very slight increase in fuel consumption

Even tractors and offroad machinery are running wider tyres these days. But - there are plenty of people who switch to wider tyres that are SMALLER in diameter than the OE tyre, and this is a mistake IME. E.g. a 31x10.5x15 is smaller in diameter than a 235 or 7.50, and often performs worse than the skinny tyre.

[Aaron]

Isuzurover - you need to clean your pm box a bit :)

[isuzurover]

Isuzurover - you need to clean your pm box a bit :)


Thanks! - PM's cleaned out.

[rar110]

what 110/120/130 rims (brand and size) do people use for 285/75 tyres? I thought these would require 16x8 rims. Is there such a rim for a landrover stud pattern?

[crump]

I have 285/75/16s Silverstone MT117 Sports on the standard boost alloys which are 16x7s but actually measure 7.5" in width.They drone a bit but you get used to it, handling is slightly more vague then stock, but once again you cease to notice it after a while.Slight rubbing on standard height springs on the top of the shock tower at the front on full articulation and some slight scrubbing at the rear on tight fast corners.

[def-90]

i ran 285's on standard 16x7 disco steel rims, worked a treat, got the offest increased by 20mm od though. however you can buy 8's if you want procomp, kings, and a few other mobs make them, can evan get 10's if you really want...

[130 major]

I run 33/12.5/15 mud terrains on my 130, i have 8 inch rims with a plus one inch offset, they are a common aftermarket range rover offset, the turning circle is unaffected as the standard 7.50/16 is 32.7 inches and the extra width is out not in. Two inch lift under the spring perches.

hope this helps

[isuzurover]

what 110/120/130 rims (brand and size) do people use for 285/75 tyres? I thought these would require 16x8 rims. Is there such a rim for a landrover stud pattern?

I used 7" disco steels. Most 285's need 8" rims, but IMO I think they work better on 7" (Well my MTRs do anyway). The tyre holds the bead better (run mine at 8 psi regularly offroad, and never lost a bead yet), they sidewall has a better profile to increase traction, while protecting the rim from damage on rocks.

[discowhite]

I used 7" disco steels. Most 285's need 8" rims, but IMO I think they work better on 7" (Well my MTRs do anyway). The tyre holds the bead better (run mine at 8 psi regularly offroad, and never lost a bead yet), they sidewall has a better profile to increase traction, while protecting the rim from damage on rocks.

exactly what he said! i run my 285's on 7's and find they are hard to un-seat at low pressures... thats when i could be bothered dropping them:angel:

cheers phil

[rick130]

and If anyone has tried blowing most common 265/75's out onto 8" rims to seat them, I can see why you blokes prefer 7" for your 285's.

[rovercare]

and If anyone has tried blowing most common 265/75's out onto 8" rims to seat them, I can see why you blokes prefer 7" for your 285's.

That's why you have a winch, cable round the guts, pull it on and presto, tyre seats the bead:D

[rick130]

That's why you have a winch, cable round the guts, pull it on and presto, tyre seats the bead:D

no winch on the Patrol, and this has been at the tyre service trying to mount them.........:D

Ratchet strap works well too.

[rovercare]

no winch on the Patrol, and this has been at the tyre service trying to mount them.........:D

Ratchet strap works well too.

Didn't they have an air blast jigger?

[rar110]

thanks for the info about 285/75s on 7" rims. but what is the insurance situation if the tyre manufacture specifies a min of 8" rims, even if 7" is sufficient?

thanks

[Slunnie]

IF they can demonstrate that it contributed to the accident they wont pay. If some even notice they wont pay. The other issue, is that if you knowingly setup like that, irrespective of whether it makes the tyres better or worse, then you'll open yourself up to be personally liable even if you're not in the vehicle, and no insurance company will cover that.

Just do it the right way and you're sweet.

[Col.Coleman]

Check out grizzly adams' "not another tyre thread" for legality in QLD. Go the 7's when your sick of those fat donuts your skinnies will fit on just fine:bangin::Rolling::Rolling::Rolling:

[rick130]

Didn't they have an air blast jigger?

two air blasters wouldn't work, the ring style and 'the big red air can' one with
a nozzle. Had this happen a couple of times.
Cooper ST's were the worst, (absolutely ridiculous) but took a bit getting BFG AT's on too.

[isuzurover]

two air blasters wouldn't work, the ring style and 'the big red air can' one with
a nozzle. Had this happen a couple of times.
Cooper ST's were the worst, (absolutely ridiculous) but took a bit getting BFG AT's on too.

The tyre blokes had the same problem when fitting my 235s onto 7" disco rims many years back. They ended up getting 2x 13" tubes, putting one on either side, and getting a couple of big plokes to put their weight on them :eek:

It worked though.

[Aaron]

285/75's gain you more clearance under the diffs

How does a tyre wider than a 235, 10mm shorter than the standard 85 gain more clearance under the diff?

[rovercare]

How does a tyre wider than a 235, 10mm shorter than the standard 85 gain more clearance under the diff?

Because the profile is not a mm measurement its a percentage

235mm/85%of 235mm = 199.75mm High

285mm/75% of 285mm = 213.75mm high

;)

[Aaron]

Offcourse!

Who was I to think tyre messurments could be so simple!

Just when I thought I had made my tyre choice!

[dylan gover]

G'day Azza

I'm running Mickey Thompson 285/75 MTZ's on my Defender. Set up with ~1.0" lift and procomp 16x8 rockcrawler wheels with 4.25" backspace. With this backspace the turning circle is better than std but you will need to extend your wheel arches if you want it engineered. On full articulation the tyres just kiss the outside lip of the original wheel arch flares.

In my experience and on the terrain I drive the 285's walk all over the 235/85's I previously ran.

Cheers

where do u find extended wheel studs

[VladTepes]

What abiout the LEGALITIES of the mentioned 285's in Qld ?
Any issue with them ?

[discowhite]

What abiout the LEGALITIES of the mentioned 285's in Qld ?
Any issue with them ?
dont know? i live in NSW:D:wasntme:

cheers phil

[isuzurover]

What abiout the LEGALITIES of the mentioned 285's in Qld ?
Any issue with them ?

Last time I read the QLD rules you are allowed to go 50% wider on 4x4s with beam axles F+R.

A 7.50x16 = 190.5 mm x 1.5 = 285.75mm

[VladTepes]

WHat are the relative price of these tyre sizes ?

235, 265, 285 r 16's

[discowhite]

thats not easy to answer, generally the most common size's should be cheaper than the less sort after sizes, but then it still depends on the brand of the tyre and tread type etc etc..

cheers phil

[rar110]

Qld Transport website says re the standard size "the overall diameter of the tyre must not vary by more than +15mm or -26mm."

According to a Maxxis brochure I have the overall diameter of their Big Horn 235/85 is 806mm, the 285/75 is 834mm, and 255/85 is 845mm.

However, I understand there are several ways to measure overall diameter.

[isuzurover]

Qld Transport website says re the standard size "the overall diameter of the tyre must not vary by more than +15mm or -26mm."

According to a Maxxis brochure I have the overall diameter of their Big Horn 235/85 is 806mm, the 285/75 is 834mm, and 255/85 is 845mm.

However, I understand there are several ways to measure overall diameter.

I am pretty sure the diameter of the michelin XZL (optional/original fitment on 110s/130s) is about 820-830 mm or so.

My IIA has 285-75s and it has gone through several inspections (RWC/transport/police) at various times in 2 different states and nothing has been mentioned. I don't know of anyone who has had (legal) issues having 33's on a series/110.

If and when the NCOP comes in, the rule will increase to +50mm for 4x4s.

[rar110]

I am pretty sure the diameter of the michelin XZL (optional/original fitment on 110s/130s) is about 820-830 mm or so.

My IIA has 285-75s and it has gone through several inspections (RWC/transport/police) at various times in 2 different states and nothing has been mentioned. I don't know of anyone who has had (legal) issues having 33's on a series/110.

If and when the NCOP comes in, the rule will increase to +50mm for 4x4s.

I measured Col Coleman's XZL's one day and they were shorter than my Faulken AT 235/85's.

You are right - you would be dead unlucky to get pinged for having 33s on a series/110.

The change would reflect reality a bit more than the current rules.

[CraigE]

Yeah, but remember that the size variation is from the biggest tyre that the manufacturer chart recomends, not the tyre neccessaarily fitted to the car now or as standard.

[isuzurover]

Yeah, but remember that the size variation is from the biggest tyre that the manufacturer chart recomends, not the tyre neccessaarily fitted to the car now or as standard.

And where do you get that size from??? The mathematical size is not the actual size. The "Tyre and Rim Standards Association" publish a manual of standard sizes, however there is a standard for road and offroad - so which one do you pick for a landie???

I have asked similar questions to QLD transport and received vague answers - which I suspect is the reason that the powers that be aren't keen on hassling anyone who is just over the 15 mm rule.

[Slunnie]

I'm pretty sure it's based on the nominal sizes listed on the placard though some push for sizes used by the manufacturer on that model but not necessarily on that placard (ie specials).

[jimbo110]

285/75/16's as standard ROCKCRAWLER.com - SEMA Show 2003 - Land Rover Defender 110 CKD (http://www.rockcrawler.com/trailreports/SEMA2003/landrover_d110.asp)

order your kit now.....................

[mcrover]

285/75/16's as standard ROCKCRAWLER.com - SEMA Show 2003 - Land Rover Defender 110 CKD (http://www.rockcrawler.com/trailreports/SEMA2003/landrover_d110.asp)

order your kit now.....................

That could be how LR can continue building the Deefa......as a home built kit :D

Yep well there you have it, factory fitted 285 75x16's.

I think they look good but Im not convinced in normal 4wding that tyres that big are all that nessesary but if you get a bit more serious into it then yes you need them.

There is a heap of contradictory data in this thread re fat vs skinny and I think in the end it comes down to what you use your 4wd for and where you want to get.

If you want them just for the look then I dont think it is the best thing to do as they do effect stopping distances, control and acceleration as well as economy but again thats just my opinion.

I run 235 85 16 on my Disco, I would probably go a bit bigger if I ran flares but i wouldnt really go over 265 75 16 Silverstones.

I think 33's are pretty acceptable though, 35's Simex's look great but are too big and as they are designed as truck tyres and in reality they over tyre a LR (as the compund and construction is designed for a 6 to 8 tonne truck not 2 to 3 tonnes of 4wd) drive terrible on any surface other than Mud and the others Ive had no experience with so I wont comment.

[discowhite]

i agree with that, even though i have 285's. they look good and they take me where i want to go and are cheapish compaired to other brands. ive run LRH's JT2's on the 90 and they are horrible on road and in reality i dont think that the differance between the 33's im running and the 35's of his really make any differance to where i go. different story if it was a comp truck.

cheers phil

[Slunnie]

I think 33's are pretty acceptable though, 35's Simex's look great but are too big and as they are designed as truck tyres and in reality they over tyre a LR (as the compund and construction is designed for a 6 to 8 tonne truck not 2 to 3 tonnes of 4wd) drive terrible on any surface other than Mud and the others Ive had no experience with so I wont comment.
:eek:

Why do you say that?

None of the Simex's are load rated for a vehicle that heavy. They're almost all very plain in the load rating for a 4WD tyre. The size range are also very much 4WD sizings.

Here are the ratings:
Dynamic 4x4, Simex 4x4, Sime 4x4, General tire, Dynamic Wheels, Sime, Grabber, Extreme Trekker, Wheels (http://www.simex4x4.com/html/s02_article/article_view.asp?id=106&nav_cat_id=127&nav_top_id=55&dsb=75)

[CraigE]

And where do you get that size from??? The mathematical size is not the actual size. The "Tyre and Rim Standards Association" publish a manual of standard sizes, however there is a standard for road and offroad - so which one do you pick for a landie???

I have asked similar questions to QLD transport and received vague answers - which I suspect is the reason that the powers that be aren't keen on hassling anyone who is just over the 15 mm rule.

Speaking to WA RTA a while back if you go over the margin allowed (-25mm +15mm I think) on the placard affixed to your vehicle you can be booked and an unroadworthy sticker placed on your car and depending on the copper can be a red one (here in WA) if they want as the vehicle is deemed to be unsafe to drive.
The standards have absolutely nothing to do with a particular vehicle. It is a guide for manufacturers and once the manufacturers recomendations are placed on a vehicle these must be abided by without an engineering exemption.
There are some real grey areas in this issue. Technically you can be booked for anything other than manufacturers reccomendations.
It would be rare to get booked for having slightly larger tyres on a 4x4, however I have seen it done and a canary placed on the car.
I know with Holden Commodores / Statesmans depending on what year you buy say 1995-2006 the placards vary. Earlier models only list 16" wheels and tyres while later models list 16-17" or 16, 17, 18". Now they are all very similar, but try buying a set of new mags in 16" to suit a late model Holden. Generally all you can get is 17-18". I know as we have been looking.

[VladTepes]

anyone running 285s on a Defender 130 with the tub ? WHat is needed to keep em legal - they look as if they;d protrude past the guards.

[discowhite]

i dont have a 130 but my trailer is and has disco rims and the same 285's as my 90. have a look in the trailers section for photos.

cheers phil

[jimbo110]

Better pix of the 285 shod 110, also note: 2003 they come fitted with a 300TDI...................:p
What do Landrover special vehicles know that they dont tell the standard TD5 buyer:o
construction by landrover brazil........ha-ha

Tawayama Safaris - Defender CKD (http://www.tawayama.com/gear/defenderckd.html)

[discowhite]

they sold out of all the TD5 stock, so they are using whats left:twisted:

cheers phil

[VladTepes]

they sold out of all the TD5 stock, so they are using whats left:twisted:

cheers phil

They've been doing that ever since they ran out of Isuzus.

[Treads]

I've just read through this entire thread and I can't find a definitive answer on whether 285/75's touch any suspension components or bodywork, when fitted on disco steel rims, on a standard height Defender. Anyone able to answer that?

We are looking for new M/T's for Tulips Defender wagon and are weighing up the options for either 255/85's or 285/75's. She wants wider, taller tyres than the 235/85's that are on it now. It appears however that 255's are only imported by Poopers and BFG, and as such prices are quite high in comparison to 285's

[Michele]

Anyone able to answer that?
I might be able :D
Justin,
considering mine (SSRs 50% worn) still rub the radius arms and they're fitted to aftermaket 8" wide rims, I'd say yes, they will touch.

Not a big deal, just steer back a little when it happens.

[Maryland 110]

I am running the new BFG KM 2's in 285/75. The truck has 3.5 lift front and 2.5 rear. It drives nicely on the freeway up to 85 mph and I regularly air down to 15-18 psi off road. I have yet to shread a tire or break a bead. The tires are mounted on stock rover deep dish style alloys. The only down side is that the tires do rub on the radius arms @ full lock. The locks can be adjusted out if so desired to prevent this. This results in a slightly reduced turning radius. As you can see they fit well within the stock flares.

[jimbo110]

I've just read through this entire thread and I can't find a definitive answer on whether 285/75's touch any suspension components or bodywork, when fitted on disco steel rims, on a standard height Defender. Anyone able to answer that?

We are looking for new M/T's for Tulips Defender wagon and are weighing up the options for either 255/85's or 285/75's. She wants wider, taller tyres than the 235/85's that are on it now. It appears however that 255's are only imported by Poopers and BFG, and as such prices are quite high in comparison to 285's

I run disco alloys and BFG M/T's which I believe are the same dimensions as the steels. The fronts are fine and don't touch on anything, and the rears are about 10mm from the chassis top spring mount. On hard cornering and full articulation the inner sidewall will "polish" the spring mount. It wont mark the sidewall of the tyre but will rub the mud off it and the paint will wear away on the mount. Both my tyres still have the little rubber bits still there from when they were molded, they haven't worn away at all so it can't be rubbing too hard at all. Otherwise, it's all good:D
I run original rear suspension and heavy duty (130) front springs, even with the original fronts the tyres will clear everthing on the front after you adjust the lockstops.

[clean32]

Better pix of the 285 shod 110, also note: 2003 they come fitted with a 300TDI...................:p
What do Landrover special vehicles know that they dont tell the standard TD5 buyer:o
construction by landrover brazil........ha-ha

Tawayama Safaris - Defender CKD (http://www.tawayama.com/gear/defenderckd.html)


looks like me in the 13th pic

[jimbo110]

looks like me in the 13th pic
You have your hand on your hose?:o


































:wasntme:

[hook]

Settle down guys we are comparing apples and oranges here.
That's why I drive a Defender. They got it pretty much right first up. Landrover have alot more money to test things than I do and the defenders still come out with skinnies on them. Good enough for me.


I Know you say Defender, but also talk about LR R&D.

They put 900*16 on FC. did they not?

? are 900*16 close to 285?

I run 235-85*16 on my Disco.

[isuzurover]

Speaking to WA RTA a while back if you go over the margin allowed (-25mm +15mm I think) on the placard affixed to your vehicle you can be booked and an unroadworthy sticker placed on your car and depending on the copper can be a red one (here in WA) if they want as the vehicle is deemed to be unsafe to drive.
The standards have absolutely nothing to do with a particular vehicle. It is a guide for manufacturers and once the manufacturers recomendations are placed on a vehicle these must be abided by without an engineering exemption.
There are some real grey areas in this issue. Technically you can be booked for anything other than manufacturers reccomendations.
It would be rare to get booked for having slightly larger tyres on a 4x4, however I have seen it done and a canary placed on the car.
I know with Holden Commodores / Statesmans depending on what year you buy say 1995-2006 the placards vary. Earlier models only list 16" wheels and tyres while later models list 16-17" or 16, 17, 18". Now they are all very similar, but try buying a set of new mags in 16" to suit a late model Holden. Generally all you can get is 17-18". I know as we have been looking.

WA regs are some of the strictest in OZ on tyres (AND they are contradictory...):


Alternative road wheels

Alternative road wheels are permitted under the following conditions :

1. Rim width must not exceed the maximum rim width specified by the manufacturer by more than 25mm (1") (for passenger vehicles manufactured after 1st January 1973, the manufacturers rim width shall be taken as that specified on the tyre placard).

In any event, rim width shall not exceed 177.8 mm (7") unless specified by the manufacturer as standard equipment for the vehicle in question. No increase in rim width is permitted for vehicles fitted with original equipment rims in excess of 177.8 mm (7") width.

2. The wheel is contained completely within the body work of the vehicle which includes acceptable flares.

3. The wheel does not foul any part of the body or suspension under all conditions of travel

4. The vehicle handling is not impaired in any way.

5. The tyre to rim fitment must be in accordance with the Tyre and Rim Association Manual.

6. Rim diameters must be the same as specified by the manufacturer.

7. The wheel must be one designed for use with the vehicle with respect to bolt pitch circle and wheel nut tapers

8. The track must not be increased by more than 25mm (1") over the maximum specified by the manufacturer.etc.



9. All wheels must be the same size, profile and bolt pattern.

10. Vehicles required to comply with Australian Design Rule 24, "Tyre & Rim Selection" must continue to comply with this Design Rule (contact the Department of Transport and Regional Services for more details).

11. The fitment of so called "plus one" and "plus two" and tyres is acceptable providing :

* the overall diameter of the large rims fitted with the lower profile tyres do not exceed the overall diameter

* all tyres and rims fitted to the vehicle are of the same size and profile

* with the exemption of item (f), the tyres and rims are in conformity with the requirements specified above in items (a) to (j).

12. Reducing the wheel track less than the original manufacturers specification is not permitted, as this may reduce vehicle stability.

Note that 6. says you cannot fit larger diameter rims, while 11. says you can - provided overall wheel diameter is the same...

[clean32]

i have 33" on 12.5 15" no rubbing rides well, doint deflate for sand run them at 25psi all the time. also a saet of 32" 11.5 no problem there eather. no handling problems. she rides realy well at 110 - 120 Klm. well untill the next hill

[rick130]

I've just read through this entire thread and I can't find a definitive answer on whether 285/75's touch any suspension components or bodywork, when fitted on disco steel rims, on a standard height Defender. Anyone able to answer that?

We are looking for new M/T's for Tulips Defender wagon and are weighing up the options for either 255/85's or 285/75's. She wants wider, taller tyres than the 235/85's that are on it now. It appears however that 255's are only imported by Poopers and BFG, and as such prices are quite high in comparison to 285's

and Maxxis.
There must be a bazillion threads on here now discussing the Big Horn 762 in 255/85. ;)

[Psimpson7]

I Know you say Defender, but also talk about LR R&D.

They put 900*16 on FC. did they not?

? are 900*16 close to 285?


Which doesnt really relate to any other LR ever made so not sure what your point is? The RRS probably runs a 285 or bigger on the 20" rims... doesnt mean it would be any use off road.

LR will supply 255/85r16's directly from special vehicles in the UK. The electricity companies and so on use them on all their 110/130's

[Amatruk]

What's all the hoo ha about wide tyres? They make your car drive like crap, aquaplane and swerve when you hit puddles, you rip the sidewalls out on ruts and rocks and generally look naff. I'll take my skinnies any day. As the pressure drops they elongate rather than widen giving a better footprint, you wide guys make wide ruts so my sidewalls don't suffer and in anything other than sink hole slop actually dig down to the hard stuff underneath instead of floating all while slinging less crap all over my pride and joy. More mud means more weight. Case in point is have a look at pro mud racers or mud rally tyres. sorry guys but they are large diameter and skinny. Widies are for street cars and poofters in landcruisers. Ooops did I say something wrong?

Absolutely right, If you have a look at any competition the defender or disco is competing in, you will see 285/16 Bizarre but they work.
eg: camel trophy ran for 20 years on these tires

[Brad H]

Hi All,


Been reading the posts about tyres and wider options. My 110 will need some new tyres soon. The OEM Continental 235/85/16 have an OD of 822mm (side wall of 199.75mm). When looking at the Continental website they only have a choice of 2 tyres (245/75/16 with an OD of 788mm; or 265/75/16 with an OD of 820mm). But going an extra 30mm in width is a big change.


I mainly use the 110 for 70% daily drive and the balance off road towing the camper. I am worried about changing the tyre OD too much and affecting the drive ratios.


I have seen BFG KO2's on Defenders I assume they are either 265/75/16 (OD of 804mm) or 245/75/16 (OD of 774mm) both considerably less than the 822 with the OEM Continental tyres.


I have looked at the Cooper ST Max 235/85/16 (OD of 812mm, only 10mm less than current OD) and the Cooper AT3's 235/85/16 (an OD of 807mm).


Toyo have an Open Country ATII with a 235/85/16 with an OD of 806mm (still 16mm less than the current OD). The Toyo have some OK write ups in 4x4 magazines.


What have others done for tyres replacement considering I do not want to go wider if possible? Am I worrying too much about the OD and changing gear/drive ratios?


Happy for some advice.


Cheers Brad (Defender 110 MY12 with standard 7 inch alloy rims)