front radius arms and bushes

[incisor]

okey dokey

am told these need doing in the not too distant future..

do the arms usually need replacing as well as the bushes or is it just bushes normally?

any things to specifically look out for?

truck has 310000 on it...

[p38arover]

Bushes only. Easy if you have a 20 ton press and the press tool.

Otherwise take the arms off and take to an LR specialist.

When I did my '87 RR I took one arm off at a time, and had the bushes done, refitted the arm, then did the other. I left the suspension all sitting there and the car sitting on chassis stands.

Replace the bushes at the rear of the arm at the same time.

I'm doing the P38A bushes next week. I turned up the press tool on Friday.

[rovercare]

Just the bushes, only things that wear incorrectly are generally, Panhard rod, they wear the bolts, the bolt holes AND the hollows in the rod itself occasionally and rear trailing arms, which wear the bolts (diff end) and the holes flog

[Blknight.aus]

Id do the bushes and the bolts usually the axle mounts dont go out but if they do My usual trick is to weld a pair of 1/16th inch thick washers on either side of the elongated holes, buid up some weld metal on the inside of the elongation then very very carefully die grind and file the hole back to round, leave the washers in place weld them on permanantly and fit bolts that are about 1/4 inch longer than the originals.

If you already have this mod, dont do it again.

[weeds]

you will need a good press and a tool to insert them so that you do not push on the centre piece

at the time of doing mine i didnt access to a press so i pick up some exchange ones from m r. nice and easy for me as they are just over the bridge

[Yorkshire_Jon]

The bushes are easy to change, but as others say you will need a press.

If you jack the vehicle up on the chassis rails, remove the front prop and drop the track rod arm ball joint out you can take both radius arms out at once and get the movement you need over the springs/dampers easily.

Id always recommend using genuine LR bushes though (or OE ones), non of the cheap crap pattern ones - they dont last 5 minutes.


If you havent got access to a press then you can use Polybushes - some people love'm, others hate them. I dont have a strong opinion either way, only that original are cheaper, last long enough and are easily sourced to replace when your away...

[p38arover]

I don't remember dropping the propshaft nor the trackrod when I did mine.

Or did I do the rear trailing arms ....?

No, I did front and rear.

[discowhite]

drop track rod and use superpro poly bushes, its the way of the future;)

cheers phil

[rovercare]

drop track rod and use superpro poly bushes, its the way of the future;)

cheers phil

*cough* I just ordered a set today, I'll "test" them *cough*:D

[rick130]

*cough* I just ordered a set today, I'll "test" them *cough*:D

a tip.
Generously grease the pins and bushes at the chassis end of the radius arms. It lets them (and the arms) rotate relatively to the chassis, as the bushes can't distort at the diff end as Haultech ones do.
I just used copious amounts of a marine/calcium sulfonate grease, rather than the Super Pro stuff. It seems to have stayed in place OK.

[JDNSW]

a tip.
Generously grease the pins and bushes at the chassis end of the radius arms. It lets them (and the arms) rotate relatively to the chassis, as the bushes can't distort at the diff end as Haultech ones do.
I just used copious amounts of a marine/calcium sulfonate grease, rather than the Super Pro stuff. It seems to have stayed in place OK.

It may work out acceptably in real life, but greasing bushes like this is not sound practice - the whole idea of elastic bushes is that flexing of the bushes takes the place of relative movement of surfaces. Adding grease ensures that movement takes place, and what is more, attracts and retains dust and grit, which becomes embedded in the softer surface (the polyurethane) and makes it into an effective grinding tool to remove metal from the chassis and pin. Greased sliding surfaces were acceptable in chassis linkages fifty years ago when provided with grease nipples that at least gave you a chance to push out the gritty grease at regular intervals, but it is worth noting that Landrovers have never come from the factory like this, even sixty years ago - either elastomeric bushes or sealed greased links.

John

[rovercare]

a tip.
Generously grease the pins and bushes at the chassis end of the radius arms. It lets them (and the arms) rotate relatively to the chassis, as the bushes can't distort at the diff end as Haultech ones do.
I just used copious amounts of a marine/calcium sulfonate grease, rather than the Super Pro stuff. It seems to have stayed in place OK.

I only ordered 4 for the diff-radius arms:eek:

The other bushes are new, just these were crap ones that flogged out:mad:

Fitted plenty to road rovers and they're fine, I did one trip in the bush and they're screwed:eek: