302W EFI into Classic Rangie [Archive] - Australian Land Rover Owners

peachey80

31st March 2008, 11:33 AM

Hey guys,
Thought I'd post up my little project.
'84 Rangie with a oily 3.5. Had initially got a 3.9 EFI to put in it, but decided to go all out and put a 5.0 injected windsor out of a falcon in it. Still pretty compact unit, but with quite a bit more poke that the old rover V8.
Engineer certificate is in process, but they've told me there won't be any dramas.

Here's a pic of the 'ol girl

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/504.jpg

I'm in the process of pulling out the old 3.5, but I've conceded with the bellhousing bolts after I spent half an our on one which eventually broke, and 3 still in there that are the same, I'm pulling the whole lot out together.
I'm replacing the 5 speed and transfer anyway as the transfer is cactus and is 4th gear syncro.
Question I have is how do you take the rear tailshaft off ? The 4 hyloc nuts just turn around on the hand brake housing............ I'm also having trouble getting the crossmember out just under the gearbox that bolts to each side of the chassis, it's in there pretty tight, I doubt everything will clear to come out together. Any tips ? ?

I'll be sure to take plenty of pics !

Cheers.

DeeJay

31st March 2008, 05:27 PM

rangieman

31st March 2008, 05:28 PM

rovercare is da man for this transplant he had a nice classic with a 5 ltr injected motor fitted :D

Thats if you need advice:cool:

peachey80

31st March 2008, 05:41 PM

The gearbox end drive shaft bolts are supposed to be secured to the flange by means of one flat side of the bolt head. If they are freewheeling then all sides of the bolts are rounded off- someones tried b4 you and botched it. Trouble there:o.
The cross member may be rusted in place, suggest rp7, or heat or a spreader, or all 3:D. It will be reluctant even if in good nick.
Cheers,

Oh crap...... That's what really annoys me about working on these things, everything has a nut and bolt, no threaded holes !:mad:
Any ideas on how do I get the hand brake drum off ?
Might soak the cross member in CRC, inox, DWF... everything, leave it overnight and take to it with a big 'tapo'meter :)

Thanks.

peachey80

31st March 2008, 05:44 PM

rovercare is da man for this transplant he had a nice classic with a 5 ltr injected motor fitted :D

Thats if you need advice:cool:

Thanks mate, I will look him up, never knock back advice !

Cheers.

Vern

31st March 2008, 07:52 PM

rovercare is da man for this transplant he had a nice classic with a 5 ltr injected motor fitted :D

Thats if you need advice:cool:what he said, oh and a twin turbo windsor aswell:cool:

rovercare

1st April 2008, 01:31 AM

what he said, oh and a twin turbo windsor aswell:cool:

I wouldn't mention that one, it was fun while it lasted, till it caught fire:angel::twisted:

peachey80

1st April 2008, 07:14 AM

I wouldn't mention that one, it was fun while it lasted, till it caught fire:angel::twisted:

Ouchie ! Do much damage ?

How did you adapt it to the rangie bellhousing? I can get my hands on a modified bellhousing to go to a 4 spd, is there much difference between the 4 & 5 speed, can I get way with just re-drilling to suit ?
What sump and pickup did you use ?

Thanks mate.

rovercare

1st April 2008, 10:11 AM

Ouchie ! Do much damage ?

How did you adapt it to the rangie bellhousing? I can get my hands on a modified bellhousing to go to a 4 spd, is there much difference between the 4 & 5 speed, can I get way with just re-drilling to suit ?
What sump and pickup did you use ?

Thanks mate.

I used a c9 -LT95, so thats no good to you

4&5 speed bellhousings are different

I used a sump and pick-up from an F truck

I also made weld in engine mounts, to use the ford mounts, not the crap rover ones

peachey80

1st April 2008, 11:10 AM

I used a c9 -LT95, so thats no good to you

4&5 speed bellhousings are different

I used a sump and pick-up from an F truck

I also made weld in engine mounts, to use the ford mounts, not the crap rover ones

Right, Auto would have worked well. The other option I have is to use the 4spd auto that's bolted to the 5.0 at the moment.
Did you make the C9 - LT95 adaptor yourself or was it an off the shelf item ? Do you still have it ?
Do you know if I can re drill the 4 spd bellhousing to bolt to the 5 spd ?

Thanks mate.

loanrangie

1st April 2008, 11:40 AM

Right, Auto would have worked well. The other option I have is to use the 4spd auto that's bolted to the 5.0 at the moment.
Did you make the C9 - LT95 adaptor yourself or was it an off the shelf item ? Do you still have it ?
Do you know if I can re drill the 4 spd bellhousing to bolt to the 5 spd ?

Thanks mate.

If you want an auto i would use a TF727 with the LT230 .

sclarke

1st April 2008, 04:56 PM

If you want an auto i would use a TF727 with the LT230 .

But the C9 is a Ford box, so it bolts straight up and the LT95 adaptor is easy to find.. Ritters made them

peachey80

1st April 2008, 05:58 PM

But the C9 is a Ford box, so it bolts straight up and the LT95 adaptor is easy to find.. Ritters made them

Exactly,
But I havn't seen anyone who makes them, where are Ritters ? Are they still available ?

rovercare

1st April 2008, 06:25 PM

Exactly,
But I havn't seen anyone who makes them, where are Ritters ? Are they still available ?

Yep, They come from 80-82ish Rangies

They're not still available, but If I happen to wreck a Rangie with one, I'll let you know

loanrangie

1st April 2008, 07:28 PM

But the C9 is a Ford box, so it bolts straight up and the LT95 adaptor is easy to find.. Ritters made them

True, but parts are non existent if it ****s up.

Vern

1st April 2008, 07:34 PM

True, but parts are non existent if it ****s up.
What parts? you can still get c4,9 parts and LT95 parts, so whats to stuff up, the seals that go in between? well they are just seals, very easy to get aswell.

rovercare

1st April 2008, 07:40 PM

What parts? you can still get c4,9 parts and LT95 parts, so whats to stuff up, the seals that go in between? well they are just seals, very easy to get aswell.

Exactly, the ONLY non-standard parts are the cast adaptor and the spud shaft, to end up with a failure of one of these, you got bigger worries

peachey80

1st April 2008, 07:41 PM

Yep, They come from 80-82ish Rangies

They're not still available, but If I happen to wreck a Rangie with one, I'll let you know

Sorry, but I'm guessing your talking about LT95 transfer coming from 80-82 rangies?
What about the adaptor to the ford box ? How available are they ?

Thanks.

rovercare

1st April 2008, 07:45 PM

Sorry, but I'm guessing your talking about LT95 transfer coming from 80-82 rangies?
What about the adaptor to the ford box ? How available are they ?

Thanks.

Ritters made the adaptor from a cut down LT95, as they are a combined gearbag/Tx case, so they cut the Tx off and adapted it to a C9, , you need to find that combination in a vehicle, or for sale somewhere, then you just use standard ford V8 bellhousing etc and make some engine mounts

Vern

1st April 2008, 07:46 PM

Sorry, but I'm guessing your talking about LT95 transfer coming from 80-82 rangies?
What about the adaptor to the ford box ? How available are they ?

Thanks.thats the model they were made for, around those years then they stopped doing them, so you have to find an old one.

rovercare

1st April 2008, 07:48 PM

Here, buy this;)

AULRO Classifieds - Message - Powered by PhotoPost Classifieds (http://www.aulro.com/apc/showproduct.php/product/1638/cat/25)

peachey80

1st April 2008, 07:49 PM

Ritters made the adaptor from a cut down LT95, as they are a combined gearbag/Tx case, so they cut the Tx off and adapted it to a C9, , you need to find that combination in a vehicle, or for sale somewhere, then you just use standard ford V8 bellhousing etc and make some engine mounts

Ok, now I follow, so the LT95 comes with the four speed. I know where I can get a 4 spd and transfer, but was told they were not as strong as the LT77's that come out in 84ish rangies.

Vern

1st April 2008, 07:51 PM

Ok, now I follow, so the LT95 comes with the four speed. I know where I can get a 4 spd and transfer, but was told they were not as strong as the LT77's that come out in 84ish rangies.
Who ever told you that has absolutaly no idea. The lt77 is the weakest rover box by far.

rovercare

1st April 2008, 07:52 PM

Ok, now I follow, so the LT95 comes with the four speed. I know where I can get a 4 spd and transfer, but was told they were not as strong as the LT77's that come out in 84ish rangies.

LT95 IS the strongest of all rover Manual's

The Tx is relatively weaker than an LT230T but pretty robust, although if you plan on giving it a hard time, with some Hp, you'll need a tapered roller gearset

peachey80

1st April 2008, 08:03 PM

Who ever told you that has absolutaly no idea. The lt77 is the weakest rover box by far.

Sorry, I meant the transfer, I know the 4 speed gearbox is stronger, but have been told the transfer it not as strong as those in the later 5 speed
('84ish) ? ?

peachey80

1st April 2008, 08:05 PM

Here, buy this;)

AULRO Classifieds - Message - Powered by PhotoPost Classifieds (http://www.aulro.com/apc/showproduct.php/product/1638/cat/25)

Interesting, and very tempting.
Although if I run an auto, it will be the ford 4 speed auto that's bolted to the 5.0.

peachey80

1st April 2008, 08:07 PM

LT95 IS the strongest of all rover Manual's

The Tx is relatively weaker than an LT230T but pretty robust, although if you plan on giving it a hard time, with some Hp, you'll need a tapered roller gearset

Nothing huge power wise, they are only rated at 165kW, although that's probably about 50kw more than what they come out with :)

Rangier Rover

2nd April 2008, 09:31 PM

peachey80

9th June 2008, 08:13 PM

Got a minor update for you.
Here she is as it sits now.......

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/06/557.jpg

I bought an LT95 to put in and getting rid of the LT77 5 speed. The 4 speed has the 1:1 hi range ratio, so will still have the legs on the hwy, with that and 33's.
I've bolted up the modified bellhousing. Back half is std Range Rover with a plate welded on to it and a C4 falcon bellhousing bolted and welded to it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/06/558.jpg

Also a modified, longer throwout brg for the clutch to work. I have the manual flywheel balanced and drilled for the range rover clutch

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/06/559.jpg

This is how the engine sits at the moment. I have a bronco sump and pickup coming to clear the diff as the falcon setup runs a front sump.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/06/560.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/06/561.jpg

And this is where the fun starts........
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/06/562.jpg

Hope to have the engine in and some mounts made up in the next week or two, and I want to turf the vaccum operated diff lock and make up a lever setup. Also change the location where the Hi / low range stick come through the floor so as everything comes up through the existing hole where the LT77 used. So should have the gearbox mounted in by the end of the month.

Cheers.

rovercare

9th June 2008, 08:42 PM

The box didn't come from JC did it?

The looms are easy, need to get smartlock bypassed, I have the number at home of the mob who does it, $300

If it gets close, I may plan another trip, can do your loom if you help subsidise the boat trip;)

peachey80

10th June 2008, 11:42 AM

rovercare

10th June 2008, 12:06 PM

Hi Mate,
No didn't get the box off JC.
Havn't fully decided what to do with the smart lock. I may end up using it, as I still have the complete loom with steering column and keys, not sure yet.
That or I was looking at the bypass module you can get off ebay for $80.

Cheers,
Shayne

WOW, they've come down in price since the last windsor I did:eek:, was EF XR8 into XP ute about.............4 years ago:D

Its just the ignition barrel that has a little PCB inside it that talks tp smartlock, my first car a I had I put an EL (XH) XR6 running gear in and used the ford barrel etc, negating the need for the smartlock bypass, but from there on in I bypassed, simplifying the loom greatly, with a much better result in regards to asthetics and fault finding

peachey80

12th June 2008, 11:19 AM

WOW, they've come down in price since the last windsor I did:eek:, was EF XR8 into XP ute about.............4 years ago:D

Its just the ignition barrel that has a little PCB inside it that talks tp smartlock, my first car a I had I put an EL (XH) XR6 running gear in and used the ford barrel etc, negating the need for the smartlock bypass, but from there on in I bypassed, simplifying the loom greatly, with a much better result in regards to asthetics and fault finding

Hey buddy,
I've actually just ordered one. How simple are they to hook up ? Is it a matter of just power (only when cranking?) earth, and the other wire to the correct ECU pin ? So then I can throw alot of the wires and BEM away ! ?
Sounds like you've done a few of these conversions! Well done!

I'm hoping to sort out a few wiring issues over the coming weekends.

Cheers,
Shayne.

rovercare

13th June 2008, 10:31 AM

Hey buddy,
I've actually just ordered one. How simple are they to hook up ? Is it a matter of just power (only when cranking?) earth, and the other wire to the correct ECU pin ? So then I can throw alot of the wires and BEM away ! ?
.

Pretty much, Ign, earth and pin, ummm, 6 if I remember, I can check for you, but the info will come with the box:)

Yep, piff everything except motor harness, The driver's side oxy sensor runs through the dash harness, but just make a new loom to it, its only 3 wires;)

peachey80

15th June 2008, 04:54 PM

Pretty much, Ign, earth and pin, ummm, 6 if I remember, I can check for you, but the info will come with the box:)

Yep, piff everything except motor harness, The driver's side oxy sensor runs through the dash harness, but just make a new loom to it, its only 3 wires;)

Thanks buddy.
I've got a smartlock bypass on the way. Had a bit of look at the loom today, spread it all out everywhere. Do I need any of the transmission wires ? The 2 plugs that go down to the tranny, Can I turf the TCM ? What did you do to trick the ECU that it was in neutral in your conversions ?
Did you have any issues with the speed sensor ?
Can you remember what wires need to go INTO in ECU, just a case of power & earth ?

Cheers mate.

Shayne

rovercare

15th June 2008, 05:09 PM

Thanks buddy.
I've got a smartlock bypass on the way. Had a bit of look at the loom today, spread it all out everywhere. Do I need any of the transmission wires ? The 2 plugs that go down to the tranny, Can I turf the TCM ? What did you do to trick the ECU that it was in neutral in your conversions ?
Did you have any issues with the speed sensor ?
Can you remember what wires need to go INTO in ECU, just a case of power & earth ?

Cheers mate.

Shayne

I gutted all the Tx wires back to the ECU, the only 4x4 I did was my own (all the rest were cars useing ford Trans) and never ran a speed sensor, BUT apparently they have a torque limiting effect so would try one this time, but mine ran find without it, unlike Holden that craks the poo's without the sender

Neutral safety switch is via the starting cct, so not an issue

Can't remember exact combo, but in effect like all EFI systems, there will be +12v, various ign, some earths and I THINk that the 5.0 has a crank signal, but couldn't tell you exactly without checking up on the diagrams

93 rissignol

16th June 2008, 07:40 PM

hey everyone,new to this forum but allready found people i can relate to i`ve been looking for a v8 conversion for my 93 rissignol 3.5 v8 disco but have been told at every turn the running gear can`t take extra hp. then i found a place in Vic that does kits for chev v8 &v6 kits but not a great fan of gmh.So to read that a few of you guys have put the good old blue oval muscle into you rides makes me happy.so my question is can you please give me any and/or all info reguarding this topic.is there a kit to buy?how much modification is involved? i would greatly appreciate any info...thanx

peachey80

17th June 2008, 11:35 AM

G'day mate,
Nothing off the shelf for the ford stuff that I found. Only **cough** GMH **cough** adaptors......
But when you have access to someone who has a metal lathe and can weld Aluminium, possibilties are endless :D

93 rissignol

17th June 2008, 05:24 PM

thanx.
would you have any pics of the modified engine mounts? and can i use the stock 5 speed man with this convertion?

peachey80

17th June 2008, 06:28 PM

I havn't actually made the engine mounts yet, hopefully in 2-3 weeks should have it sitting in the bay, just have to finish another project that has come my way.......:(
You can use what ever transmission you want if you're making your own adaptor. I went down the LT95 route as they are a stronger box than the 5 speeds, and because it's the 1:1 transfer I don't loose any top end on the hwy, and still have a lower low gear for rock going.

peachey80

3rd August 2008, 06:27 PM

Ok, made some progress over the weekend after finishing my other side project.
Got the engine and box sitting in roughly where it's supposed to be.
I'm having some difficulties getting everything sitting where it should.
The question I have is the LT230 gearbox mounts look to be different than the LT95..... is this the case ? ? Does anyone have any photos of the mounts off an LT95 bolted up ?
I had to bring everything forward by about 5/8" to clear heater pipes ect. on the fire wall. Hopefully this wont trouble the drive shafts :o
Got the engine mounts roghly made up, but need to get the gearbox sitting right before I go any further.
Will takes some pics shortly.

Cheers,

Peachey.

rovercare

3rd August 2008, 06:32 PM

the holes in the chassis are in the same situ, but one mount that bolts the the LT230 is different, the small little pressed tin one is used of both sides of an LT95, the manufactured on on the LT230 is the odd one out

peachey80

3rd August 2008, 07:02 PM

Thanks mate,
That's about where I'm at. Passenger side looks fine, but the drivers looks on a completly different angle. Might just make something up...

Here's as she sits..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/1079.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/1080.jpg

Here's the passenger side...... moved forward a bit.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/1081.jpg

and drivers side, after I modified it to move forward, looks like nothing close to being right...... :mad:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/1082.jpg

rovercare

3rd August 2008, 07:33 PM

I could post you one over if you wanna slip $20 in my account to cover it:)

peachey80

18th August 2008, 12:01 PM

Thanks Rovercare, but I ended up finding a couple sitting around.:)
Made up the engine mounts, and modified the gearbox mounts to bring the engine forward and half inch to clear the heather pipes. It's got a 2" lift kit, so the front drive should still be the right length. I'm going to make up a spacer for the rear.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/574.jpg

Modified a set of Range rover extractors and welded up a flat plate drilled to accept the ford heads, also cut out the o2 sensors from the Falcon and welded to them.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/575.jpg

But she's all mounted in and sitting where it should.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/576.jpg

I had to cutt a piece of the lower drivers side bracket where the idler for the serpantine belt runs to clear the steering box, so will need to modify that to re mount the idler.
I've since made up a bracket to run the rangie air con, I ended up just running an older v-belt crank pully bolted on the front of the exisisting pulley, so the air con will run on a seperate v-belt.

Still got alot to do.
throttle cable, fuel line, surge tank and return, power steering pipes (falcon-range rover), Wiring, heater pipes, thermos......... but getting there.

What exactly is this ? I was going to have a guess at some sort of charcoal canister ????

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/470.jpg

Do I need it for the fuel tank to breath?

Cheers,
Shayne

rovercare

18th August 2008, 12:06 PM

Correct its a charcoal can, the motor should have an ECU operated purge valve, which connects to manifold vacuum, that goes to a charcoal can;)

rovercare

18th August 2008, 12:09 PM

By the way, next time you've sent me a PM and then decide you don;t wont it, please let me know, as I scrounged through and pulled one from a wreck for you and had it in the car ready to post:(

peachey80

19th August 2008, 07:08 AM

Oh Crap, Sorry buddy, Didn't mean to stuff you about..... :oops2:

The EF does have the electronic pressure relief in the tank that is controlled by the ECU, but wont be using that.

What does the C P and T stand for on the top ?

What is the best way to setup this do you think ? Do you need to run the canister ?

Cheers mate.

Shayne

rovercare

19th August 2008, 08:23 AM

Tank

19th August 2008, 10:46 PM

Will be watching this one, I have a 351 4V GT Clevo to shoe horn into a Rangie. Bit wider than windsor:eek: But I need to decide on a tranny:confused:4 spd auto would be good if it would last. I think a 302 windsor is a good choice as lower RPM toque curve compared to a 4V Gt cleveland that I have as a donor. They like to rev:eek:
RR Geez Mate, if I had a genuine T code JG33 Falcon GT engine with 4V heads I would be advertising it on one of the GT Falcon forums, it's worth more than your whole Rangie.
Would be a pig of a motor in a 4WD car as they have bugger all torque below 2000rpm and a good 250lbs heavier than the Rover engine, Regards Frank.

peachey80

20th August 2008, 07:07 AM

ha ha ha:), Yeah Frank, I reckon I could do him a favour and swap him the JG33 for the injected 302 ;) :p

There is a pretty big market these days for something like that, you would be surprised at what you could get for it. Someone out there may have a genuine GT (if it wasn't written off) without matching numbers.

Tank

20th August 2008, 11:59 AM

Peachy, so right, if it is a 351 Cleveland engine and it's a genuine "T code" with 4V heads then it has to be out of a 1971 XY Falcon GT and they are selling for big bucks, you never know there may be someone out there with the car that that engine came from and I would imagine they would pay a fortune for it.
It would be a hopeless off-road motor, with those enormous 4V ports you would be blowing clutches all the time trying to get it off the mark, just no go below 2000rpm, Regards Frank.

Slow Disco

20th August 2008, 12:38 PM

peachey80

24th August 2008, 08:08 PM

Small update,
Part way through making a 30L sub tank to fit under the drivers side.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/327.jpg

Also, got the wiring harnes tidyed up.... 85% comfortable on what wires do what :D If I turn the key in a couple of weeks, and it doesn't fire, I reckon I'm screwed ! :p

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/328.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/329.jpg

Rangie Air cond bracket made up to run a normal v belt, just boltde up a standard pulley to the front of the serpantine pulley.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/330.jpg

Cheers,
Shayne

peachey80

25th August 2008, 11:03 AM

Depending on which model the windsor came from, if an EB ED - should get a bigger MAF - will improve power and economy ( I'm using a 73mm maf, awesome upgrade from standard restrictive maf). See link. EB ED usually have `19lbs injectors, EF EL from memory have 24lbs
CAPA : Price List (http://www.capa.com.au/prices_vortech_performance.htm#vortech_filters)

Thanks mate,
It's out of an EF. I will be running it standard, very much a budget project, so wont be going all out performance.

Cheers,
Shayne

peachey80

4th October 2008, 01:22 PM

Minor update, I am currently giving myself a serious headache with the wiring :confused: Also, tomorrow I have the Enzed man coming around to make a new power steering hose to adapt the falcon pump to the rangie box, that and also to make me up some high pressure fuel lines.

Here is what it looked like last week.. I wasn't happy with the air con pump bracket before, but it's all good now.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/898.jpg

Also, the surge tank under the passenger side sill...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/899.jpg

I have a couple of questions if someone could help, it's been a while since I pulled out the 3.5, and cannot find the alternator wiring ????? From memory, it was on the passenger side, has anyone got any pics to help ?
Also, does anyone know which wires were for the temp, oil, and tacho ? Where were they hiding ?

Cheers,
Peachey

peachey80

17th October 2008, 07:39 PM

Hey guys, I'm 95% finished putting a 5.0 out of my '96 Fairmont in my Range Rover. It's all bolted up and wired in, but as I hoped wouldn't happen when I turned thek key...... infact has..... NO GO !!!!:mad:

I have spark, but no fuel...... How do I trouble shoot to see if the injectors are getting power or squirting fuel ??? The plugs look dry. I have power going to the injectors on ignition, so I'm guessing a pulse or earth makes them operate ??
I'm using a smart lock bypass module, looks to be outputting about .35V to pin 3 of the ECU, does that sound right ???

Any help on things to check would be greatly appreciated, I'm really getting 4WD withdrawel symtoms, and this thing should be heaps of funs to drive when it starts !!!!!

Cheers guys !!!!

matbor

18th October 2008, 12:41 PM

Get some NOID lights to check if power is going to the injectors.

peachey80

18th October 2008, 05:58 PM

Thanks mate,
Had a play today, I had +ve power on ign to the injectors, and when cranking the other wire was giving a -ve pulse, so I was happy with that working. Found the problem with no fuel, had an issue with the pump........ don't ask ;) So I now have fuel going through the rails. BUT !, now the injectors don't seem to be pulsing any -ve earth ?????

What is a NOID light ??

peachey80

4th November 2008, 05:42 PM

Well, after 3 weeks of checking, double checking, and triple checking all my wires and connections, turns out I had a faulty bypass module :mad: Not to mention the countless swear words.
So, after making the exhaust over the weekend, I will be putting everything back togther this weekend. Still got the thermos to wires up, radiator hoses and return fuel line to plum up and a long list of fidley bits and pieces.
Still to decide what to do with guages, I'm hoping the sender units will talk to the rangie dash, and the tacho too.

Will post up some pics soon.

Cheers !

One very happy and relieved Peachey !

rovercare

4th November 2008, 09:00 PM

Sorry mate, missed this thread being updated, could of been of some help:(

NOID light is just to check injector pulse, an LED test light will do the job

Diognostics would of shown smartlock to be the issue, I could have sent you a known override to check to:(

peachey80

5th November 2008, 11:22 AM

rovercare

5th November 2008, 11:38 AM

Thanks mate, no worries, got there in the end.
The test light I have is a LED, it shows as green when its earth and red when it's +ve.

Now the fun begins tidying everything up and finishing things off, but at least there is light now at the end of the tunnel !!

Will try and post up a short video of it over the weekend.

Hey rovercare, with previous conversion you had done, did you use the Transmission Control Module ?

Which conversion?:D

The only Windsor I put in a 4wd was mine, I used a C4, all the others in cars, Have had the factory trans

I only have the smartlock override box left as I kept it when I converted to Microtech with the turbo's, as it was very handy for setting up a car, then they could send the ECU off to remove smartlock

peachey80

5th November 2008, 07:59 PM

Ok, thanks mate.
Did you use the TCM at all in the conversion with the C4 ?
Which trick did you use to tell the ECU it was in neutral ? Or did you have a manual ECU ?

rovercare

5th November 2008, 09:14 PM

Ok, thanks mate.
Did you use the TCM at all in the conversion with the C4 ?
Which trick did you use to tell the ECU it was in neutral ? Or did you have a manual ECU ?

Umm, I didn;t:D

peachey80

7th November 2008, 11:05 AM

ha ha, oh ok.
So you didn't have any issues with it stalling when it was at idle ?

rovercare

8th November 2008, 09:31 AM

ha ha, oh ok.
So you didn't have any issues with it stalling when it was at idle ?

Not at all, but can' remember how I set the loom up, it was 5 years ago:eek:

peachey80

8th November 2008, 05:21 PM

Ok, here what I got to today.
Made up the exhaust and put it all in, started putting the front back together.
Dummied up the radiator to make up the brackets for the EF thermo fans. Now just have to play arund with radiator hoses....
Still need to plum up the return fuel line, put in the drive shafts, tidey up the mess of wires everywhere and mount the ecu. Then go over every nut and bolt to check they're done up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/686.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/687.jpg

Still got a few fidley bit of wiring to do also. Try and wire up the water, oil and tacho.
Also have the old rangie gearbox wiring loom, but cannot find where it plugs into..... Can anyone help here.. ?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/101.jpg

Thanks,
Shayne

peachey80

9th November 2008, 08:08 PM

Today, I had to modify the bolt pattern for the rear tail shaft on the back on the LT95, it's different to the LT77 :mad: there's always something.... but didn't have long enough 3/8 bolts so didn't quite get to finish that job.
I had to pull the extractors off to modify them, the flanges were fowling on the head bolts and wasn't getting a proper seal.
Will try and find some radiator hoses during the week that will fit too. Still yet to make up an air filter assembly, will make up a snorkle at a later stage.

Any help on the gearbox wiring loom above ?

Should have a video to post next weekend !

Cheers,
Peachey

peachey80

16th November 2008, 07:52 PM

Ok, I have a video, but for some reason when I copied it from the camera to the computer I lost sound, so I havn't put it up, not much sense with the sound !! It works when you watch it on the camera Any ideas ???

Anyway, got a few more little jobs done, backed it out of the shed gave it it's first wash for over 12 months :p , and scrubbed the shed floor.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/338.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/339.jpg

It's not quite running right yet, doesn't really want to idle, sounds like a big cam in it, but revs out fine and holds revs smoothly.
Exhaust is in, tailshaft in, bottom radiator is in, top still to come.
Still got to mount the fans in and wire them up, and finish mounting the ECU, wire up and tidy a few more things in the cab, the off to get it engineered and registered, can't wait to drive it again !!!!:D

Oh, and still to wire up the gearbox wires, ie reverse light, centre diff lock and hand brake, can't find the plug !!!!! But getting there.

And somebody please remind me to put oil in the transer !!!!

mike 90 RR

22nd November 2008, 01:51 PM

Fantastic job :)

It may / will not idle properly till you put a air filter on it :angel:

Mike

:)

BigJon

22nd November 2008, 03:16 PM

And somebody please remind me to put oil in the transer !!!!

Put oil in the transfer...:p

Rangier Rover

22nd November 2008, 03:31 PM

You've done a nice job on that. The colour suits it:twisted:

OIL IN TRANSFER!!!!!!

peachey80

25th November 2008, 07:12 PM

Thanks guys. I am quite pleased with it so far.
I hope to have all the little things finished on it on Sunday, (putting oil in the transfer included;)) then off to the engineer to cast his eye over it and get it passed for rego next weekend, apparently it takes while for the registrar to issue the engineering approval plates, so I'm hoping to be able to drive it before Christmas.

One thing I still havn't found is where the wiring loom is for the gearbox and transfer wires ie, centre diff lock, reverse lights and handbrake...... I have the loom to plug onto the switches, but cannot find where it plugs into. :(
Does anyone know where it comes out into the engine bay ? I really don't want to have to wire the whole thing in seperatly, I will at least need the reversing lights working for rego.

Cheers,
Shayne

Disco_owner

25th November 2008, 10:27 PM

Hi Shane ;

That conversion looks great and once you have the wiring sorted ,I'm sure you'll have a lot of fun driving it .:cool:

Leo109

7th January 2009, 05:29 AM

Hi Shayne,

Just found and read your story for the first time. Hope you've sorted out the final wiring issues and it's now on the road (and off-road too...).

Facinating read. Thanks very much for sharing the process with us and for taking the time to write and post photos in the middle of what must have been at times a frustrating process.

Please let us know how it's going now.

Thanks,
Ian

peachey80

10th January 2009, 08:29 PM

Thanks mate. I actually just got it running right today !!
All it was, was a vacum line where it shouldn't have been. I have diconnected the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve, and it now goes like it should:D Starts, idle's and revs out fine. Just need to make things look a bit more tidy, and get it registered !!!!! Then to find some sand dunes !!:twisted:
Woo hoo !! can't wait.

peachey80

21st January 2009, 08:24 PM

Hey guys,
Passed engineers report yesterday :cool:
Could take a couple of weeks for the paperwork to go through and plate issued, so probably wont now how it goes for another month or so.

Quick question I had though, the rear diff concerns me a little. How much backlash should it have ?? I can turn the flange on it probablt 10mm.....
Also the ol' 4 speed and transfer seems to have a reasonable amount of slop in it. What it an easy way to see if it's within tolerance withour pulling it apart ?

Hey Rovercare.... Can you remember in other conversion you had done, what did you do to get the guages working ? Did you use RR sender units and adapt them to the ford engine ? What about the tacho ??

Cheers mate.

maxpower

23rd February 2009, 05:26 PM

Hey Mate, I just finished reading all the posts on your thread, excellent job! Top engine choice as well, I have a AU XR8 with this engine and spent a good part of $5k on a rebuild plus the $1100 for Herrod Motorsport to flash tune. So I know how well they perform and very reliable. I could imagine the look on herrods face (or anyones) when u ask for a flash tuner for your range rover LOL

The Tacho is a white wire which used to go to the alternator. My one in my 84 rangie doesnt work So I bought a $50 Ebay 5inch tacho which has the water temp, oil temp n oil pressure in it and came with all the senders (good buy n so far has lasted 12 months)

jazzaD1

30th May 2010, 11:46 PM

any updates on how it goes???

dickyjoe

4th November 2010, 03:02 PM

Ditto on that. Love to know about it...

banarcus

6th November 2010, 09:58 PM

Peachy got rid of it a while ago and bought a patrol :(

I helped him with the Ford EECIV wiring via another forum and from memory he said the rangie went pretty good. I can't remember why he sold it though.

billy bob

9th November 2010, 04:21 PM

I put a V6 commodore motor in a hilux once. Was so dissapointed with it.
Sold it just after I finished it
Know how he feels

peachey80

20th June 2011, 05:31 PM

Geeeezzz... Been a long time since I was on here.... :o

Anyway the donk was a great conversion, and would do it again if I had the chance. Had double the power of the old 3.5 ( which isn't too hard I know) and used slightly less fuel.
Only had it out 3 times off road, awesome !!

I sold it about 6 months after, Thought I'd put it up for sale for what I thought was a good dollar just to see what would happen as I wanted to get rid of the 2 cars (dedicated 4wheeler and general driver) for 1 that would do both, and free up some garage space for a project I have. The old girl sold the next day..... Should have had more on it !
Another reason I thought I would let it go is the extra power it had, It needed some money spent on diffs and axels upgrades to keep up with the engine :D

All in all, a great conversion, alot of work, but worth it ! Not a daily driver for me though as I travel over 500klms a week to work and back.

Billy Bob, no wonder you were disapointed.... It's a holden motor.. lol

Banacus, thanks again for your help mate !

peachey80

20th June 2011, 06:02 PM

Found some more photos of the old girl !!
This is when I got it

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/585.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/586.jpg

Painting in progress
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/587.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/588.jpg

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa14/peachey80/Coupe/Other%20car%20stuff/PIC00445.jpg

Nothing a 3" spring, 2" body lift, some fibreglass flares, a coat of Vermillion Fire, some bar work, a set of 33" mudders, and a nice donk can't fix :p

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/589.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/590.jpg

banarcus

24th June 2011, 09:45 PM

After reading a thread about your hardtop a few months ago, I don't blame you wanting to make room in your shed. Looks grouse peachey :)

FIXR7

28th June 2011, 02:28 PM

Supoib Peachey!

Hey banacus, check out my 351W EFI into Classic Rangie...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/wa-aulroians-group/110482-zf-auto.html

Cheers,
FIXR7 aka xr9ute

FIXR7

29th June 2011, 10:25 PM

peachey80

2nd July 2011, 09:33 PM

Hey Peachey,

I notice your radiator support was removed/removable. Is that a standard thing?...mine is spot welded but it appears that it has holes which could be bolted through. Sure would help the conversion process if it unbolted.

Yeah mate, it was all bolted together. Good thing I like about the old Rangies, they're almost like a big mechano set ;)

FIXR7

4th July 2011, 09:59 AM

Good to know, I suppose I could drill out the spots and use the bolt holes but that would mean a lot of tidy up work afterwards. Wonder when they switched to welding them up?

banarcus

4th July 2011, 05:27 PM

Supoib Peachey!

Hey banacus, check out my 351W EFI into Classic Rangie...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/wa-aulroians-group/110482-zf-auto.html

Cheers,
FIXR7 aka xr9ute

Hehe Pete, the internet is a small place isn't it? I first contacted you about fooling my 3DFA in my ED when I put a T5 behind it back in 2004. I'll keeping an eye on your rangie project for sure!!

FIXR7

4th July 2011, 05:38 PM

Hehe Pete, the internet is a small place isn't it? I first contacted you about fooling my 3DFA in my ED when I put a T5 behind it back in 2004. I'll keeping an eye on your rangie project for sure!!

Hey Bloke,

Yeah sure is. hey we've got some pretty good support for 3DFA these days with 1/4 horse...my new ED 5.0 has a 3DFA too.

Pete.

peachey80

4th July 2011, 05:52 PM

Good to know, I suppose I could drill out the spots and use the bolt holes but that would mean a lot of tidy up work afterwards. Wonder when they switched to welding them up?

Not sure mate, From memory mine was an '84 model.
Spot welds..... what a bumma :o

loanrangie

8th July 2011, 11:01 AM

Good to know, I suppose I could drill out the spots and use the bolt holes but that would mean a lot of tidy up work afterwards. Wonder when they switched to welding them up?

About 85/86 when they went to efi is when the floorpan was welded in as opposed to the bolt ins. Welding made them more rigid but harder to pull apart.