Buying a 96 D1 – What to look for?

[Josh]

I’m looking at a 1996 Disco as a daily driver. Car is a 7 seater v8, auto with 107,000kays. What are some things I should look closely at or specific things I should ask?

I’m lead to believe rust is a big thing around the windows and this one checks out with none, need to question any past over heating issues and if it’s still got the factory radiator still, anything else mechanical to be wary of?

thanks

[spudboy]

Yeah - check it out for rust around the alpine windows up top, and also for rust around the rear door latch area (body side not door side).

Mine is a diesel so all the stuff I might say about making sure the timing belts have been done etc don't mean much for a V8!! Full service history is nice to have whatever though.

I've got a 97 and it has been bullet-proof so I can highly recommend them as a vehicle.

Good luck with it. Kms are pretty good for a 96.

[Xavie]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery/52380-buying-tdi-but-looking-info-please.html

A few threads like this one lately must be buying season.

Xav

[RonMcGr]

I’m looking at a 1996 Disco as a daily driver. Car is a 7 seater v8, auto with 107,000kays. What are some things I should look closely at or specific things I should ask?

I’m lead to believe rust is a big thing around the windows and this one checks out with none, need to question any past over heating issues and if it’s still got the factory radiator still, anything else mechanical to be wary of?

thanks

Josh,

Last year I bought a 97 SE7 V8 with 102,000km.
The only thing wrong with it was a jammed CDL as it had never been used and the vacuum advance unit on the dizzy was stuffed. Mine had always been in a garage, so rust was not a problem.

If it drives well and does not smell of mould inside (water leaks), you should be right :D

Cheers,
Ron

[Utemad]

When checking the rust around the alpine windows don't just look. Press hard on the rubber all the way around and listen for 'crunch, crunch' noises.

Pull up the front carpet and check for rust. Also bang the underneath of the front footwell.

They rust in the inner guards too but you need to pull the front guards off to check that one.

Check rust in the roof gutter all the way around.

It is probably leaking oil out of every conceivable seal.

Check the rubber donut between the rear diff and driveshaft for cracks. Will cause a vibration when driving if it is really bad.

There are heaps of things to check on these as they are getting old and they are Land Rovers :)

[RonMcGr]

It is probably leaking oil out of every conceivable seal.



Mine does not and it now has 109,900km on it :D

[Utemad]

Mine does not and it now has 109,900km on it :D

I have a few engine leaks that are easy fixes but the main one is the transfer to gearbox oil leak. That is not getting fixed unless one of the boxes has to come out for a more important reason. Oil leaks don't faze me anymore. I'm more concerned about keeping the engine in the engine bay than the oil in the engine at the moment :)

Although mine doesn't drip onto the floor anymore (fixed those leaks) just coats the underneath.

Another thing is check how much slop is in the drivetrain. Unless you plan to pull it apart this is something that you will need to drive a few to get the feel for.
Do the 96 models have the updated input gear in the transfer case? Mine has a factory oil feeding plate and perfect condition mainshaft and input gear because of it (94 model 195k) but from posts on here that is not the norm.

[Scouse]

When checking the rust around the alpine windows don't just look. Press hard on the rubber all the way around and listen for 'crunch, crunch' noises.

A 'lumpy' rubber is the first sign :(.