Why silicon sealants should not be used on engines.

[chazza]

(Or why extended warranties aren't worth the paper they are written on)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/04/535.jpg
Picture showing what the strainer had caught. This is the only strainer I have ever seen, which has had such a pile of poop in it!

Not long after I bought my Disco it developed a big end bearing knock. No problems said I the new car dealer (not Land Rover) I bought it off, will fix things.

They fixed it all right! Fixed it so that every orifice leaked water or oil :mad:

Today I took the sump off and found (predictably) a broken gasket smeared with some silicon crap. Luckily I spotted a piece in the strainer as well, so I took that off finding in the process more silicon under the strainer's flange.

It's wonderful to have to re-do someone else's work when you know you shouldn't have to. :mad: The rocker covers are next and I don't have to guess what will be wrong there!

[p38arover]

The rocker covers are next and I don't have to guess what will be wrong there!

V8?

The rocker cover screws come loose. Quite common. You'll need a 1/4" drive socket that's 12 point - most are hex.

[PLR]

G`day chazza ,

it`s not the silicone at fault it`s the peanut that applied it .

Holomar , i feel is better for these V8s though and i`m not a big fan of gaskets with tin sumps .

Cheers

[p38arover]

Holomar , i feel is better for these V8s though and i`m not a big fan of gaskets with tin sumps .

Hylomar is even better! :angel:

[chazza]

Yes; quite agree PLR.

I have used Loctite Black Max this time so I will see how it goes. Also found that the manual is wrong when it blithely tells me to unscrew the fasteners and remove the sump. I found it necessary to disconnect the steering damper and drop the track rod off the right hand side first,

Cheers Charlie

[rovercare]

I found it necessary to disconnect the steering damper and drop the track rod off the right hand side first,

Cheers Charlie

Could have jacked the car up a little;)

[Utemad]

Yes; quite agree PLR.

I have used Loctite Black Max this time so I will see how it goes. Also found that the manual is wrong when it blithely tells me to unscrew the fasteners and remove the sump. I found it necessary to disconnect the steering damper and drop the track rod off the right hand side first,

Cheers Charlie

You can get it out if you jack the chassis up until the front wheels are off the ground or at least up a bit.

[RonMcGr]

Today I took the sump off and found (predictably) a broken gasket smeared with some silicon crap.

"dodgey brothers mechanic shop", just round a corner near you! Guaranteed to bodgy a job, for a bob!

I hate those assholes!
Unfortunately there are far too many of them.

A good mechanic is hard to find an idiot with a spanner is plentiful! I bought a Jaguar botched by one :mad:

Finish rant!

Ron M

[101RRS]

I can remember when Silastic was released into the Australian market in about 1975 - amongst al lot of things it was marketed as being able to replace head gaskets - at the time as a youngster I was into enduro motor bike riding and had a blown head gasket on my Cooper 250 Motocrosser. Needles to say as being young and vulnerable I use silastic to replace the head gasket - mit worked for about 20km and blew when I was out in the bush - silastic khas never lived up to its extreme promises bit does work well as a general sealant as long as oil and petrol are not involved.

Garry

[dobbo]

Finish rant!

Ron M


How many times and in how many threads can we quote you with this?

[rovercare]

How many times and in how many threads can we quote you with this?

:eek::D:angel:

[isuzurover]

As others have said, silicone sealants are not the issue, the nuffy that applied it was. LR tdi engines come from the FACTORY with the sump attached with silicone.

Sometimes I think silicone was designed for LRs -= sometimes it is the only thing that will ensure a leak-free joint ;)

[mcrover]

Sometimes I think silicone was designed for LRs -= sometimes it is the only thing that will ensure a leak-free joint ;)


Thats what I was going to say.....:o

Nothing wrong with silicone, I use it all the time in heaps of applications other than Carbi's and Auto's and I have never had a problem other than a Laser rocker cover that the silicone actually privided a path for the oil to follow so I used gasket goo instead :D

No other way to control oil leaks on my machines as well, as oil leaks and greens dont mix......At all....:eek:

[Aaron IIA]

I prefer to use paper gaskets covered with aviation grade sealant. It is a sticky black substance, which you could almost desctibe as tar like. It never sets, so you can remove and re-use the gasket. When used on good surfaces, it does not leak water or oil.
Aaron.

[djam1]

Just love Three Bond sealant almost seems like a better quality silicone rubber much better than the average auto stuff that you buy.
Expensive though $88 a tube if you buy it from some places I found that if you buy it as a genuine Mitsubishi engine assembly sealant you get the same stuff for about $30 a tube well worth the cost. IMHO

[rovercare]

Just love Three Bond sealant almost seems like a better quality silicone rubber much better than the average auto stuff that you buy.
Expensive though $88 a tube if you buy it from some places I found that if you buy it as a genuine Mitsubishi engine assembly sealant you get the same stuff for about $30 a tube well worth the cost. IMHO

We have a winner:)

Although I pay $35 a tube trade, retail price is insane as you say, over 80 beer tickets:eek:

[460cixy]

you should see the retail price for the sealer ford uses on the timeing covers for the new transit/fender its somthing like 100 buck or more. you destroy the timeing cover geting it off it holds that well so you buy a cover and get the sealant with the cover ;) i used a tube on my 300tdi when i put it together on the sump and that stupid t seal thing on the rear main