County V8 to 4BD1turbo conversion.

[rijidij]

I recently converted my 1988 V8 County from a 4.2 litre Rover V8 to an Isuzu 4BD1turbo which came from a truck, and also intercooled it. I took lots of pictures during the process, so I thought posting them here might be of help to anyone thinking about doing the same conversion. There are several different parts and minor modifications needed for the job.
I'll be brief in my description as the pictures will hopefully explain themselves to a certain extent.

I started by buying a damaged truck with a good motor in it. In this case it was a 1988 Isuzu NPR59, 7 ton GVM with the factory turbo engine. I was very fortunate to pick up this particular truck as it was only written off for front suspension and body/chassis damage to one corner. The mechanicals were perfect, even the radiator was unmarked. In fact, it was still quite drivable. The best part was the engine had only done 3000 kms since a full rebuild at a cost of more than $6200 and came with the receipts.

The first stage was to strip the truck, remove the engine and give it a good clean.

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[rijidij]

Next........Find , purchase and fit the various components needed to fit the engine to the County.

Bellhousing ------ (not pictured) In this case, needed to mate to the Lt95 4 speed gearbox.

Flywheel housing ------ The Landy bellhousing will not mate to the truck flywheel housing. The starter motors and clutch slaves are also in different positions. This is the army spec housing without the inspection plate. it's totally sealed except for the wading plug. There is a breather at the top of the bellhousing.

Flywheel ------ The landy flywheel will not fit in the truck housing. The offset may be different too.....this is one thing I forgot to measure.

Starter motor ------ The Landy starter is 12 volts and has 3 mounting holes. The truck starter is 24 volts (like most trucks) and has 2 mounting holes.

Clutch and pressure plate ------ Completely different to the truck clutch. I picked up a NOS clutch and pressure plate for a good price, but it was to suit a 'non-turbo' Isuzu Landy. I fitted this kit thinking that the pressure plate would be ok for the turbo motor as the kit was brand new. I was wrong. After a few weeks on the road, the turbo motor was powerful enough to spin this clutch. And before anyone asks, the master cylinder and pedal adjustments were triple checked. I replaced the pressure plate with the one specified for the turbo engine........problem solved.

Clutch throw out bearing spacer ------ The throw out kit is the same as the V8 except there is a metal spacer for the Isuzu.

Clutch push rod ------ The push rod for the Isuzu is quite a bit longer than for the V8

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[rijidij]

Spiggot bush ------ The truck has a spiggot bearing, the Landy version is an extended housing with a bronze bush insert.

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[rijidij]

Mounting pin for clutch rocker arm ------ The pin and arm are the same as for the V8, but the pins can be known to 'chew out' where they fit into the alloy bellhousing. My second hand bellhousing was chewed out, so I drilled it out and sleaved it with steel.....and after a suggestion from a friend who has worked on many of these, I drilled and tapped the end of the pin and bolted it through the bellhousing using some loctite to help prevent any further movement of the pin.

Spacer for oil filter housing ------ The turbo engines have a filter housing which takes 2 spin-on oil filters. When fitted to a Landy the housing must be spaced out from the block so the front prop shaft doesn’t make contact with the bottom filter. Another spacer must be made for where the oil feed tube connects above the filter housing. The spacers can probably be purchased as a part, but I chose to machine my own (with the help of a friend with a milling machine). There is no room next to the chassis to get the 2 long bolts in to connect the filter housing so I got some high tensile threaded rod (not cheap) and used loctite to secure them in the block.

Engine mounts ------ Although you could get away with using the mounts off the truck, with some minor modification (2 bolt stud pattern is slightly different), the Landy Isuzu mounts are actually bigger and stronger, so I chose to buy new ones.

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[rijidij]

Next……..Get the County in the shed and start stripping it to remove the V8.
Important : Before removing the V8, take accurate measurements of the exact position of the gearbox. When the new engine is fitted, the gearbox must be in exactly the same position as it was before. The reason for this is that you can’t buy the engine mounts that are a part of the chassis, so you have to fabricate your own.
I then dummy fitted the engine and bellhousing to the gearbox and made sure it was hanging in a way that the gearbox measurements were correct. Then the new mounts were measured and fabricated and tacked into place. The engine was removed and the mounts fully welded on.
This is the only time I needed the engineer to inspect anything apart from the completed project. He wanted to see the raw (unpainted) welds.

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[rijidij]

Fit starter ------ When I fitted the starter motor I found the oil return pipe from the turbo had to be bent slightly to miss it.

Exhaust header ------ There is not much room between the engine mount and the starter to fit the exhaust through. Some turbo manifolds point straight down, which would make it a bit easier. I chose to run a 3 inch system right through so I fabricated the header pipe while the engine was still on the floor. It’s highly recommended that a flexible joint be fitted to the exhaust not too far from the engine to allow for some harsh vibration from the diesel.

I also fitted an ‘Endless Air’ compressor where the A/C used to be fitted when in the truck. (not pictured)

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[rijidij]

Radiator ------ I used the V8 radiator, but I had the outlets swapped over so I could fit standard hoses if I wanted to.

Air filter ------ The V8 air filter can be used with the turbo motor if you flip it over and relocate the dump valve.

Intake manifold ------ Because I intended to fit an intercooler, I removed the pipe which normally goes over the top of the engine and fabricated a small stainless one with the fittings for the dump valve and the small hose which goes to the boost compensator on the injection pump. I also spun the alloy housing of the turbo around so the outlet pointed away from the engine.

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[rijidij]

While the front of the County was stripped, I took the opportunity to fit some soundproofing. I also fitted it to the underside of the bonnet (not pictured) and gave the chassis a clean and paint.

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[rijidij]

After fitting the engine and the front guards, I could now go about fitting and plumbing the intercooler.

There were many more tasks during this project which I either haven’t mentioned or have forgotten…….for example, cleaning the fuel system etc etc etc etc .

After many months, I finally got to the stage where I could turn the key.

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[rijidij]

The verdict ?

Well, I’ve had it on the road for several months now, and I can honestly say the only thing I miss about the V8 is the exhaust note. The turbo motor out performs it in ‘almost’ every way, especially off road.
I generally don’t like comparing diesel engines to petrol engines because they deliver their power and torque in completely different ways, but they will always be compared……..all I can say is, after having a 4.2 litre V8 in the County for 12 years, I’m more than happy with the performance of the Isuzu turbo engine. And I have good fuel economy for a change.

[isuzurover]

Great writeup!!!

[EchiDna]

well there ya go... after seeing the photos post completion on the LROCV site I always wondered about what you did ... now I know!!

top thread, great info...
but can I be a bit of a bugger and ask for a list of suppliers? (by PM is fine)...

Cheers,

[rovercare]

Great writeup!!!

^^^:)

[cooee]

hi rijidij
you have done brilliant :D excellent photos sure quite few man hrs
sure many great time ahead with new power plant :)

if you get bit bored you can put isuzu in my 101 :D cheers

[rijidij]

hi rijidij

if you get bit bored you can put isuzu in my 101 :D cheers


Hey I'd love to help you out, but I've already started on my next project......another Landy, so I'll probably be tied up for the next few years :D

Cheers, Murray

[C H T]

Murray

Great job. I have now done just on 19000kms in my Defender which we converted from a 300Tdi to a 4BD1T last year - the new set up is fabulous. Just a couple of quik quetios - first do you think that there is any advantage in removing the turbo outlet housing and repalcing it with a larger diameter dump pipe? (my vehicle is booked in for a larger diameter exhaust in the new week dv - I am running the old 300 Tdi system at present - only ever intended as a temporary measure) second what sort of fuel economy are you getting? ( mine has been averaging between about 12 and 14.8 lts/100ks)

Regards

Christopher

[rijidij]

Murray

do you think that there is any advantage in removing the turbo outlet housing and repalcing it with a larger diameter dump pipe?

second what sort of fuel economy are you getting? ( mine has been averaging between about 12 and 14.8 lts/100ks)

Regards

Christopher


G'day Christopher,
The dump pipe on the turbo is such a short distance, I don't think it would be any great advantage changing it, unless it is an unusually small diameter for some strange reason. From memory, mine is about 2 1/2 inch, so the size is insignificant leading into a free flowing 3 inch system.

The only time I've worked out my fuel economy so far was when I went to Adelaide towing a BIG tandem trailer and brought back my Isuzu 120. With all them hills and a tandem and another Landy on the back the fuel use was between 17.5 and 19 lts/100ks, but I was really working it very hard.
I'm currently in the process of working out the fuel figure when unladen......obviously I'm hoping it will be a lot less than on that trip.

10 years ago I did a trip across the Simpson Desert over 2 weeks from Geelong and back again with the 4.2 litre V8. When I got home, I had used $800 worth of petrol........and that was 10 year old prices too.

Cheers, Murray

[Bush65]

Great write-up and good work on the conversion.

[County3.9]

Outstanding! Loads of work, can you do mine? Makes me think that an aftermarket turbo for my isuzu will be more within my capabilities than a
4BD1T engine swap!

What did you use to sound proof the fire wall?

[rijidij]

What did you use to sound proof the fire wall?

I forget the name of it, but Clarke Rubber sell it off the roll at 1 metre wide. It's about 10mm thick closed cell high density foam with one metalic face. It's easy to cut and best of all it's self adhesive. About $30 a square metre.

Cheers, Murray

[LoveMyV8County]

Nice work! Wish I had the ability to do the same to my County.

[rijidij]

Just adding a pic of the bellhousings.
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[rijidij]

Murray
What sort of fuel economy are you getting? ( mine has been averaging between about 12 and 14.8 lts/100ks)

Regards

Christopher

I just worked out my fuel consumption for the first time that didn't involve heavy towing. With a good mix of city, country roads and some freeway it worked out to 13.5 lts/100ks.

[Disco_owner]

Great work Rijidij;

was your truck at cooma ? I think I was looking inside your engine bay and the truck with a lot of Envy , will get a County one day..?

[rijidij]

Yeah, I was at Cooma. I did a lot of talking and gawking that weekend.
You wont regret getting yourself a County.......wouldn't give mine up for quids.

Cheers, Murray

[Blknight.aus]

outstanding.

[dobbo]

Wow

great conversion

[p38arover]

Great job and write-up.

It won't convince me to buy another County, though. I don't think they're a patch on a RR or Disco. :D

[rangieman]

Great write up im impressed:D

[rijidij]

Just thought I'd add a picture showing the difference between the V8 and Isuzu fan shrouds.
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[rijidij]

I like the look of stainless steel intercooler pipes in the engine bay, but I needed to insulate the pipe which is close to the turbo because it gets very hot and this would reduce performance. I played with the idea of a metal shield, and also wrapping the pipe in fiberglass tape, then I discovered something that I would be happy with. After wrapping the 2 1/2 inch pipe I found that a 3 inch pipe would slide neatly over the top. This should provide good insulation without being able to see the tape.

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[rijidij]

what sort of fuel economy are you getting? ( mine has been averaging between about 12 and 14.8 lts/100ks)

The best I've got so far is 12.7 lts/100ks

[kaa45]

Great project, Murray.
So what did you do with the truck gearbox, etc?
Been thinking about swapping the LT95 for an Isuzu box.
Danny

[rijidij]

G'day Danny,
I'm hanging on to the truck gearbox. Like most Landy enthusiasts I have one or two future projects in mind that I will get around to one day.

Cheers, Murray

[DirtyDawg]

A most excellent thread and it looks fantastic..if/when my TDi bites the bullet I would like to go the Izuzu pathway.

[1103.9TDI]

Great to see another Isuzu Landy join the club, especially from the dark (V8) side:D:D:D, very nice, neat conversion.......

[Larns]

That is an extreamly impressive write up. Great tradesmanship too!!

Mine is getting just under the 10ltr per 100km mark at the moment, bit of mixed driving, fair share of town/highway and a bit of towing in there too.

Cheers

[Corgie Carrier]

G'day Danny,
I'm hanging on to the truck gearbox. Like most Landy enthusiasts I have one or two future projects in mind that I will get around to one day.

Cheers, Murray

What is the reason you didn't use the Isuzu box in this project?

I am thinking of using one in my Rangie project with the 4bd1, do you know what they are like in a 4x4?

[isuzurover]

What is the reason you didn't use the Isuzu box in this project?

I am thinking of using one in my Rangie project with the 4bd1, do you know what they are like in a 4x4?

Dougal and Bush65 both have Isuzu boxes behind their 4BD1s. They have both posted a few times on the topic - a search should turn up something.

[rijidij]

What is the reason you didn't use the Isuzu box in this project?

The engine conversion was a big enough project in itself without changing the gearbox too, but who knows what will happen in the future. I still have the Isuzu box as an option. I'm sure the Lt95 behind a 4BD1turbo will slowly 'die', even though it's an excellent box. Other options are, rebuild the Lt95 with tapered bearings, or just wack another second hand box in. I have a spare Lt95 sitting in the shed for just this purpose.
The good thing about Lt95's, like one of my mates says, is don't worry if it's a bit noisy or there's a bit of backlash, just drive the bloody thing :D
These days I think the second hand box option is a good way to go as you can get them fairly cheap. If you can find an honest seller who has first hand experience with using the box and they reckon it's in good nick, then I don't think you can go wrong.

[rijidij]

what sort of fuel economy are you getting? ( mine has been averaging between about 12 and 14.8 lts/100ks)

I just got back from an Outback trip covering 7817 Kms from Geelong to Darwin, including lots of gravel roads, Innaminca, Birdsville, Simpson Desert, Hay River Road as well as a lot of blacktop, so a good mix of road type and average speed.

We used a total of 1155 litres at a cost of $2274.56 which gives an average cost of $1.97 per litre. The most we paid was $2.25 at Innaminca, the least was Berry Springs near Darwin at $1.83. ($1.64 in Geelong when we got home)
Average consumption worked out to 14.8 L/100km, but this is the heaviest I've ever loaded the County for a trip and we also had a rooftop tent and roof rack which wouldn't help with aerodynamics.

All well worth it though.......it was a great trip. To make the most of the time we had, we drove the trip one way, then flew home. The County was trucked home at a cost of $1250 from Darwin to Melbourne.

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[justinc]

Excellent write up, excellent vehicle, fantastic conversion and I'm glad it's being USED!

Well done.

JC

[rijidij]

Before the outback trip I fitted some OME766 front springs. I'm glad I did. These are made specifically for the Isuzu 110. I found with the V8 springs the front end would bottom out quite easily. Obviously the Diesel is much heavier than the alloy V8. With all those floodway dips in the outback it was a good investment.
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[rovercare]

Before the outback trip I fitted some OME766 front springs. I'm glad I did. These are made specifically for the Isuzu 110. I found with the V8 springs the front end would bottom out quite easily. Obviously the Diesel is much heavier than the alloy V8. With all those floodway dips in the outback it was a good investment.


Oh yea, its heavier alright, mine dropped heaps in the front:eek:

[rijidij]

Another thing I wanted before the trip was a snorkel. There's no way I was paying $500 for a piece of plastic when I could make my own from stainless.
I already had an offcut of straight 3 inch tube and a second hand ram, so all I needed to buy was a couple of mandrel bends and a metre of good quality ducting. All up....about $100.
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While I was going, I fitted the twin element Donaldson air filter. Until now I had been running a modified V8 canister.
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[rovercare]

Your work is top knotch:)

[justinc]

Top notch alright!:o

I'm too embarrassed to post ANY pics of my underbonnet/ conversion now!:(:(


:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

JC

[rovercare]

Top notch alright!:o

I'm too embarrassed to post ANY pics of my underbonnet/ conversion now!:(:(


:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

JC

I've already posted mine and his is neater:eek::D

[EchiDna]

crikey riji that's damn nice work!

can I ask who made your stickers? would be keen for a set myself...

[justinc]

crikey riji that's damn nice work!

can I ask who made your stickers? would be keen for a set myself...

OOhh Yeah! Times 2 here!!!!



JC

[Rangier Rover]

Very nice work and a great County. You now have the ultimate touring and Tow vehicle. Can't beat the simplicity and torqe of a 4BDI.
As others have said.... Great write up and neat work. Tony

[isuzurover]

Top notch alright!:o

I'm too embarrassed to post ANY pics of my underbonnet/ conversion now!:(:(


:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

JC

I was thinking exactly the same thing. My conversion looks like a team of blind monkeys did it compared to that job. :eek:

[rovercare]

I was thinking exactly the same thing. My conversion looks like a team of blind monkeys did it compared to that job. :eek:

You finished already? pics?

[jerryd]

Congratulations on an excellent job, I'm new to the Isuzu powered County too, having owned it for only ten days.But I've clocked up 2500 kilometres already,took it offroading,took it swimming down the river and generally driving around with a big grin :D
I'm averaging 9.5 - 10 litres per 100 which is very good I think,although I have no turbo fitted, yet;)

Can I ask you what type of roofrack you use ??? It's the first item I have to purchase for mine, I'm thinking possible rooftent, but mostly for carrying work related materials, timber,ladders etc.

Can anyone reccomend a good tyre and pressure set up also ??? that is suited to the extra weight upfront etc. thanks

[rijidij]

can I ask who made your stickers? would be keen for a set myself...

I designed the sticker myself. The one in the picture below is my prototype. There is a sticker factory near where I work. I keep meaning to call in and see how much it would be to print some, maybe a couple of different versions for Turbo, Non-Turbo etc etc. And I presume there would be copyright issues with the Logos within it (not that I intend to sell them for profit)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/166.jpg

[rijidij]

Can I ask you what type of roofrack you use ??? It's the first item I have to purchase for mine, I'm thinking possible rooftent, but mostly for carrying work related materials, timber,ladders etc.

My full length rack is an alloy TJM rack with the mesh floor. It was on the County when I bought it. Before I bought the rooftop tent it was always on and I've never had any problem with it.
The short rack in front of the rooftop tent is a rack I made up myself, mainly so I can carry a bit of firewood. It proved very handy on the trip we just did.

[rijidij]

Can anyone reccomend a good tyre and pressure set up also ??? that is suited to the extra weight upfront etc. thanks

Asking about tyres is usually a can of worms, everyone will tell you something different.
At the moment I'm running Cooper ST's 255/85/16. Happy with them so far.

[EchiDna]

I designed the sticker myself. The one in the picture below is my prototype. There is a sticker factory near where I work. I keep meaning to call in and see how much it would be to print some, maybe a couple of different versions for Turbo, Non-Turbo etc etc. And I presume there would be copyright issues with the Logos within it (not that I intend to sell them for profit)



PM on the way... :)

[isuzurover]

You finished already? pics?

Will post some pics when I (eventually) get it back from the exhaust shop.



Rijidij - I would be interested in a sticker if you are getting some done.
edit - also - are you able to measure the thickness of your oil filter spacer?

[C H T]

Rijidij - I would be interested in a sticker if you are getting some done.
edit - also - [B]are you able to measure the thickness of your oil filter spacer

The oil filter spacer is 60 mm thick - you also have to make a spacer for the turbo oil feed line

Regrds

Christopher

[rijidij]

are you able to measure the thickness of your oil filter spacer

The oil filter spacer is 60 mm thick - you also have to make a spacer for the turbo oil feed line

Regrds

Christopher

Thanks

The spacers I made up are 50mm. The prop shaft still just hits the bottom filter. One day I will make up some new ones at 60mm.

[130 ambulance]

Thanks

The spacers I made up are 50mm. The prop shaft still just hits the bottom filter. One day I will make up some new ones at 60mm.

I'd be up for a set Judging by the speed of you swap it won't be long before you make them up . YOU COULD START TAKING SOME ORDERS FOR A RIJIDIJ CONVERSION KIT. YOU DO SWAPS LIKE I'VE NEVER SEEN. :p LOL

cheers
Justin

[rijidij]

Judging by the speed of you swap it won't be long before you make them up

After just returning from a 6 week holiday in the County and all the pre-trip time I spent preparing it, I will have to concentrate a bit more on some of the household projects for a while...........but just between you and me, I'll probably find myself sneeking out to the workshop now and then for some 'Landy Time'.

I will keep you in mind if and when I do get around to making them though.

Cheers

[clean32]

Brilliant work.

I doint supose you have pics of the orignal Isuzu. Dip stick , Breather, oil lines, both in and out with routing?

as these would be the "thinking bits" when converting a NA to turbo county

Thanks in advance

[rovercare]

Brilliant work.

I doint supose you have pics of the orignal Isuzu. Dip stick , Breather, oil lines, both in and out with routing?

as these would be the "thinking bits" when converting a NA to turbo county

Thanks in advance

It was originally a baby stroker, 4.2 V8;)

[clean32]

It was originally a baby stroker, 4.2 V8;)

uumm OK

But reading isuzurovers thread and your thread, looking at his pictures and his pictures. there seems to be some little difrences between your motor and the NA isuzu fitted to a 110.

It would be intresting to compare you dipstick and tube as it looks like it comes up behind the turbo and not beside the manifold ( as best i can make out from the photos.

Same as the breather under the turbo, that need to be hacked about in a NA 110, again it would be intresting how Isuzu handeled this problem with there tubo motors.

Like wise with the oil line, where is its pickup, how is it routed. and the oil return where is it piped to ?? etc

[Bush65]

...
Same as the breather under the turbo, that need to be hacked about in a NA 110, again it would be intresting how Isuzu handeled this problem with there tubo motors.

Like wise with the oil line, where is its pickup, how is it routed. and the oil return where is it piped to ?? etc
The truck 4BD1-T doesn't have the breather on the exhaust side. Only one breather from the right side of the rocker cover, which goes to a catch can vented to atmosphere.

The oil line comes from the top of the line between the filters and the oil cooler. It is routed around the rear of the head to the turbo. The oil line on n-a engines don't have this fitting.

The oil drain from the turbo goes to a port in the side of the crankcase. This hole is not drilled in the n-a engine.

I posted pics in this thread (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-landy-enthusiasts-section/44549-4bd1t-set-oil-drain-etc.html)

[rijidij]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/364.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/04/557.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1265.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1266.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/1370.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/1371.jpg

[clean32]

Thanks Guys

i think the isuzu breather looks nicer than the NA setup

[The Mutt]

I presume there would be copyright issues with the Logos within it

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/166.jpg

Yes there are copyright issues involved, don't take out a full page ad in the papers, or set up a stall at the local markets, stay as far under the radar as possible. On the whole both Land Rover and Isuzu are pretty good at understanding peoples interests and hobbies and letting you advertise their product on their products, US conglomerates have no tolerance or understanding of anything other than their right to litigation.

It is urban myth that if you can the original by 10% then it is alright, how many times have you heard that some musician had to pay copyright to another artist for using a short sample or imitating a rift in their own song.

PM anyone interested if you wish and let them pay for the stickers to be made and mailed or send the artwork for them to produce their own. It is then non-profit but still in breach of copyright law.



Glenn

[rijidij]

Yes there are copyright issues involved, don't take out a full page ad in the papers, or set up a stall at the local markets, stay as far under the radar as possible. Glenn


I have only distributed stickers to fellow members on this forum, and some friends, and strictly as a non-profit exercise.......in fact I made a loss in the end, but that's not an issue as I had fun with the whole project.
Sure there might be copyright issues, but I would hope that Land Rover and Isuzu would look at it in a positive way.

Murray

[The Mutt]

To Murray

Good, life is too short not to have fun.

Glenn

[justinc]

Murray,

I have given away some of the stickers I bought to valued customers/ people who appreciate it. I have not sold any due to the aforementioned copyright type of issues.
Love your work, quite a few have commented on the ones attached to my RR:cool:


JC

[1103.9TDI]

Wouldn't have a clue who I got the stickers from, orifficer, but the're damn good don'tcha think. Wish I could personally thank the the bloke whose idea it was:D:D:D

[rijidij]

I'm just adding links to other threads which directly relate to this engine conversion.

Cheers, Murray


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-landy-enthusiasts-section/70135-reclaiming-factory-boost-level.html

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-landy-enthusiasts-section/69978-where-mount-egt-probe.html

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-landy-enthusiasts-section/68674-egt-gauges-one.html

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-landy-enthusiasts-section/67355-temperature-spikes-4bd1t.html

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-landy-enthusiasts-section/60229-stop-solonoid-wiring.html

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-landy-enthusiasts-section/58309-isuzu-110-front-springs.html

[dylan gover]

hi rijidij
you have done brilliant :D excellent photos sure quite few man hrs
sure many great time ahead with new power plant :)

if you get bit bored you can put isuzu in my 101 :D cheers

our 101 could do with one aswell ,we park them together yes

[dylan gover]

did u consider a thermo fan ,
im assuming u did but have
many reasons not too.
i put one in and it rarely kicks on
my inspiration was room as i was removing
the ac at the time then i did a radiator flush
resulting in a new radiator.(many leaks were
unsealed)

[rijidij]

did u consider a thermo fan ,

I used the fan which was on the motor in the truck. It has a viscous coupling and fit in the Landy fan shroud without mods, so I was happy to go with that.

Murray

[Offender90]

After fitting the engine and the front guards, I could now go about fitting and plumbing the intercooler.

There were many more tasks during this project which I either haven’t mentioned or have forgotten…….for example, cleaning the fuel system etc etc etc etc .

After many months, I finally got to the stage where I could turn the key.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/03/725.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/02/1367.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/02/581.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/02/1368.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/02/582.jpg

Murray,

What's the size of your intercooler, and did you have any trouble fitting it between the radiator and the cross braces?

There's approximately 5 cm between the end of the radiator and the cross brace on my non-AC 120, and most intercoolers I've come accross are 70 to 76mm in thickness. Is there more space in the front of an AC county, or did you have to relocate the cross braces forward? (If so I'd appreciate any more pictures showing how it was done).

Cheers

Bojan

[rijidij]

Murray,

What's the size of your intercooler, and did you have any trouble fitting it between the radiator and the cross braces?

There's approximately 5 cm between the end of the radiator and the cross brace on my non-AC 120, and most intercoolers I've come accross are 70 to 76mm in thickness. Is there more space in the front of an AC county, or did you have to relocate the cross braces forward? (If so I'd appreciate any more pictures showing how it was done).

Cheers

Bojan

I did have to move the cross braces forward. At the top I used a metal plate which bolted on with the bonnet catch. From memory, I think I welded the nuts to the bottom of it, then just drilled a couple of holes for the braces.
On the bottom, I welded a small tube to the back of the braces to extend them forward, and just used some longer bolts through the brace and the tube.

My intercooler is 65mm thick. I can't recall how much I moved the braces, but I think there is about 10mm between the I/C and Rad.

Cheers, Murray

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/02/1351.jpg

[Offender90]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/02/581.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/02/582.jpg


Hi Murray,

Is that a D2 windscreen wiper water bottle you are using under the right wing?

I'm trying to route the IC plumbing the same way, but the standard county bottle is too fat and in the way.

Cheers

Bojan

[isuzubob]

Hi Murray,

Is that a D2 windscreen wiper water bottle you are using under the right wing?

I'm trying to route the IC plumbing the same way, but the standard county bottle is too fat and in the way.

Cheers

Bojan

I doubt that D2 w/wiper bottles are the same but it is an Air-con equipped County bottle. Non-air County's had the fat bottle close to the heater while those with factory air sat further on following the curve of the left inner guard just behind the headlight.

Rob

[rijidij]

Hi Murray,

Is that a D2 windscreen wiper water bottle you are using under the right wing?

I'm trying to route the IC plumbing the same way, but the standard county bottle is too fat and in the way.

Cheers

Bojan

No, it's the standard County washer bottle, but my County is an '88 model, so it might be different to earlier models.

Murray

[Offender90]

No, it's the standard County washer bottle, but my County is an '88 model, so it might be different to earlier models.

Murray

Cheers,

That would explain it, as I thought the AC county I bought off Greg (lewy110) for spare parts has the same fat bottle as my non-AC one. Will have to check to confirm.

[rijidij]

Murray,
Is there more space in the front of an AC county, or did you have to relocate the cross braces forward? (If so I'd appreciate any more pictures showing how it was done).

Cheers

Bojan

Bojan,
I just had a look at my County. I moved the cross braces forward approx 50mm, but not having the A/C extended grill panel (see below), I'm guessing you might not have enough room in front of the Rad to do the same to fit your I/C.
To give you an idea, from the back of the plastic grill (the horizontal louvers which should be the same as yours) it's 60mm to the front of the cross braces and 160mm to the face of the engine radiator.

Hope this helps,

Cheers, Murray

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/781.jpg

[1103.9TDI]

I have removed the standard A/C condenser, replacing it with an intercooler. I also have a PTO winch fitted to an ARB winch bar. It all fits, although access is limited, unless you have time. Nothing else in that area is modified, and it could still be returned to standard if desired.

[Offender90]

I have removed the standard A/C condenser, replacing it with an intercooler. I also have a PTO winch fitted to an ARB winch bar. It all fits, although access is limited, unless you have time. Nothing else in that area is modified, and it could still be returned to standard if desired.

Thanks, that looks quite good. Do you have a winged or wingless sump?

[1103.9TDI]

A wingless sump, but it's still really tight for the PTO shaft to pass on the LHS of the gearbox and still have reasonable access to the filler plug. It does though, and rotates smoothly, with very little noise. These winches are very powerful, even a single line pull is effortless and they work every time!.

[Offender90]

A wingless sump, but it's still really tight for the PTO shaft to pass on the LHS of the gearbox and still have reasonable access to the filler plug. It does though, and rotates smoothly, with very little noise. These winches are very powerful, even a single line pull is effortless and they work every time!.

Thanks,

I've recently come into possession of one (still waiting to have it delivered). How hard was it to fit the PTO winch into the ARB bar?

Did it require any modification?

[1103.9TDI]

Thanks,

I've recently come into possession of one (still waiting to have it delivered). How hard was it to fit the PTO winch into the ARB bar?

Did it require any modification?


Well, it wont go straight in, but with basic welding, it'll fit without too much difficulty. Make sure the steel you use is beefy, the winch roller sits higher than the standard electric unit, because of where the shaft comes out between the steering dampner, and the chassis. I used the top fairhead position, but the cable angles slightly up to the fairhead, and it is not perfect, but it works. It would be best to fit an ADF bullbar. Are you getting the shafting already assembled for a 110?. The rarest part is the PTO unit itself, but they do turn up every once in a while!. They are a great setup, really basic, nothing to go wrong, on the same ethos as the Isuzu 110:D.

[Offender90]

That was my reasoning for going the PTO route as well, even tho it'll cost me ~2x what the 8274 set me back for th e90. Reliability, reliability, speed and simplicity. It does come complete with shafting for the 110 as well by the way.

When you say you use the top fairhead, do you mean the fairlead is bolted to the top mounting bolts for the winch in the ARB bar or something else completely?

Also, do you have any photos that show more of the bull bar (I'm having a bit of difficulty deciphering some of the detailed photos) - probably because I haven't got the PTO setup to look at, nor have I had a good look at the ARB winch bar yet. Front viewand top view of the bar would be very useful if you have any.

Cheers

Bojan

[1103.9TDI]

I'll take some pics 2morrow, and start a new thread for you..........sorry about the thread hijack Rijidij:).

[mrapocalypse]

Hi Murray

#1. Amazing build up.
#2. Whom did you use to transport your truck back from NT. And did you have to empty it of all your stuff? I am considering a similar trick myself but have been told by all trans companies that vehicle must be completely empty!

Thanks

Ian

[rijidij]

#2. Whom did you use to transport your truck back from NT. And did you have to empty it of all your stuff? I am considering a similar trick myself but have been told by all trans companies that vehicle must be completely empty!

G'day Ian,
Read my reply about Trewin Logistics in this other thread >>>>>>>>>>>> http://www.aulro.com/afvb/general-chat/71248-freighting-vehicle-melb-cairns-visa-versa.html

Cheers, Murray

[Maggot4x4]

Great read and great work.

Oh, and if your still doing the stickers :P

[rijidij]

.......... if your still doing the stickers :P

I still have stickers available. See the designs here >>>>>>>http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-landy-enthusiasts-section/62810-isuzu-land-rover-stickers-5.html

If you want to order some, send me a PM with your order and delivery address.

Cheers, Murray

[Maggot4x4]

I still have stickers available. See the designs here >>>>>>>http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-landy-enthusiasts-section/62810-isuzu-land-rover-stickers-5.html

If you want to order some, send me a PM with your order and delivery address.

Cheers, Murray

PM Sent

[Davo]

Hey Murray, a couple of questions:

That soundproofing you used looks like Formshield, from Clark Rubber. How has that held up? I've used a lot of it and found it's really good, but I haven't put it in the engine bay yet.

How did you drill and tap the clutch release arm pivot pin? I tried to centre punch a spare I've got, but it looks like it's hardened steel.

[isuzurover]

Hey Murray, a couple of questions:

That soundproofing you used looks like Formshield, from Clark Rubber. How has that held up? I've used a lot of it and found it's really good, but I haven't put it in the engine bay yet.

How did you drill and tap the clutch release arm pivot pin? I tried to centre punch a spare I've got, but it looks like it's hardened steel.

Yes it is. I covered the underside of my bonnet in it before driving across the nullarbor. As it doesn't have much mass, it doesn't do a lot against noise, but it makes the underside of the bonnet look nice ;)

Mine has survived OK. The foam directly above the turbo has melted slightly, so the silver foil stuff isn't attached to (what is left of) the foam over about an 80mm diameter region.

[Davo]

Yeah, I've got it on the bulkhead above the transmission tunnel and on the tunnel itself, as well as on the floors and seatbase. It's not bad for soundproofing, and works well combined with something heavier, but it's excellent for keeping all that heat out.

[rijidij]

Hey Murray, a couple of questions:

That soundproofing you used looks like Formshield, from Clark Rubber. How has that held up? I've used a lot of it and found it's really good, but I haven't put it in the engine bay yet.

How did you drill and tap the clutch release arm pivot pin? I tried to centre punch a spare I've got, but it looks like it's hardened steel.

The Formshield is holding up quite well except directly above the turbo, same as Ben. The foil has detached, so I cut the loose foil away and patched it with some metallic insulation tape......ok so far.

I can't remember having any trouble drilling and tapping the pivot pin.

Cheers, Murray

[Davo]

Okay, thanks for that. Formshield really seems like the best you can get - can get easily, anyway. The specs show next to no flammability but I also try to set fire to these sorts of things just with a match and it was quite hard to burn. So once I've replaced the open-crankcase 2.25 petrol I've got, which sprays oil mist everywhere, I'll put Formshield in the engine bay.

The pivot I've got might just need some hardness ground off, so thanks for letting me know about that too.

[rijidij]

The Formshield also comes in self adhesive, so you just cut it to size, peel the backing off and stick it on.

Murray

[yt110]

A big thanks to rijidij for this post,it was a great help when fitting my intercooler.

[HotWired]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/364.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/04/557.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1265.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1266.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/1370.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/1371.jpg

Just wondering where the crankcase vent pipe (turbo breather pic) goes to? Does it have a catch can or just vents straight out?

[isuzurover]

Just wondering where the crankcase vent pipe (turbo breather pic) goes to? Does it have a catch can or just vents straight out?

The turbo breather from the tappet cover vents to a catch can type arrangement and then to atmosphere (no idea how it drains). I have temporarily been running mine with no catch can - until I refit my Provent - and the top of the front diff is a bit oily as a result.

[Bush65]

The catch can is vented to atmosphere and has an oil drain to the sump - see pic below.

Edit: Murray's pics of the 4BD1T breather doesn't show the catch can. It mounts on the bracket just in front of the Land Rover air filter, where the hose clip is in the pic.

[HotWired]

Cheers, that helped. Provent sounds like a good idea to

[Bush65]

In the top right of the previous pic, is the plate I made that bolts to the engine block in place of the oil filter housing. The plate is drilled and tapped for 2 fittings - one for oil delivery that goes to remote mounted full flow and bypass filters, the other for oil to return from the bypass filter and a Provent breather.