Radiator price

[County3.9]

Was quoted $700 for a recore today...geez. Has anyone got better than that?

[Vern]

Which car? I just paid $360 for our 300tdi disco one to be done. For $700 you could get a full custom aluminium rad done.:(

[C H T]

If the core used in the re-core is of good quality - not a cheap imitation - $700 is a pretty good price - mine cost me $500 last year but that was a very old stock high quality core that had been on the shelves of the local radiator works for many years. Current local price (Sun Coast Qld) for a quality recore is about $1000

Christopher

[Lotz-A-Landies]

The price of copper for radiators has risen lately, when I had a standard series radiator done last year, the quote for copper was around $1,000 and the aluminium around $650 so your $700 sounds about right.

[County3.9]

Which car? I just paid $360 for our 300tdi disco one to be done. For $700 you could get a full custom aluminium rad done.:(

The county. Maybe I'll get a custom job done!!

[HangOver]

maybe a Ford BA radiator could be fitted like they can on the RRC/Disco?
Very cheap on ebay

[1103.9TDI]

I'd reckon a high quality aluminium radiator would cost more than the $1000 I was quoted by Natrad (http://www.natrad.com.au), for a recore with the same copper in my County. Aluminium can also be brittle.......

[C H T]

For what its worth - I have heard of problems with alloy radiators - ptimarily cracking around the mounting points in vehicles used extensively in the bush. I looked at using a custom alloy radiator on my 4BD1T Defender, but when everything was taken into account the cooper/brass per original came out in front. A high quality alloy rad would be more expensive than a recore. New genuine Isuzu radiators from Land-Rover are about $1400

Christopher

Christopher

[sclarke]

$1400.................. extra $600 and you can buy the whole car.....

[incisor]

rumour has it the alloy radiators are much less tolerant of stray voltage than the brass/copper ones....

[Lotz-A-Landies]

rumour has it the alloy radiators are much less tolerant of stray voltage than the brass/copper ones....
Phoenix

The information I received from J.J. Smith Radiators in Sydney is that the aluminium radiators are much more efficient than the copper ones, however the aluminium ones will not last as long as the copper ones and no where as long as the brass ones that used to be on the Series 1 vehicles. (Some 1948 ones are still in use.)

Diana

[County3.9]

$1400.................. extra $600 and you can buy the whole car.....

Hope my countys' worth more than that!!!

[1103.9TDI]

Quote:
Originally Posted by sclarke
$1400.................. extra $600 and you can buy the whole car.....

Hope my countys' worth more than that!!!


Mine definately is!! and if you got one for that price, it'd probably need a new radiator!!:D.

[D3Jon]

Was quoted $700 for a recore today...geez. Has anyone got better than that?

I had mine done late last year (on the 110 Isuzu County), there were 2 options on cores, a heavy duty one (4 core from memory, but might have been 3) or a lesser spec one which was about $800 from memory. I went for the top spec one and it cost just over $1000 - That price was haggled down from $1200 as well! :o

When you consider the price of a replacement engine it doesn't pay to scrimp on the cooling system.

Another option is to get a new V8 rad (which seem to be very cheap if you look at UK mags / speak to Britpart, etc) and swap the inlet and outlet connections over. This has been done a few times for the Isuzu installation, but I didn't fancy it myself.

[County3.9]

I went for the top spec one and it cost just over $1000 - That price was haggled down from $1200 as well! :o



Where did you get it done D3Jon?

[County3.9]

I need a new radiator goddamnit, still recovering from the prices! $1400 for complete unit, $700-$1000 for a re-core. Apparently the zu uses the "military" radiator which is different to the "normal" V8 version. The V8 one has a elbow at the top outlet and straight at the bottom, the zu is the reverse.
Does anyone know if its OK to convert the V8 rad (only $500, that's more like it)by simply welding on different outlet pipes?(D3Jon has heard of it being done) Has it got the same cooling capacity?
What have others done...surely no one should pay this much for a radiator???!!!:eek:
Or am I out of touch with the prices of rads these days.

[isuzubob]

I need a new radiator goddamnit, still recovering from the prices! $1400 for complete unit, $700-$1000 for a re-core. Apparently the zu uses the "military" radiator which is different to the "normal" V8 version. The V8 one has a elbow at the top outlet and straight at the bottom, the zu is the reverse.
Does anyone know if its OK to convert the V8 rad (only $500, that's more like it)by simply welding on different outlet pipes?(D3Jon has heard of it being done) Has it got the same cooling capacity?
What have others done...surely no one should pay this much for a radiator???!!!:eek:
Or am I out of touch with the prices of rads these days.

Five or six years ago a mate had his Isuzu County re-cored (was told one of the last original ones left) for $600; new complete was $1200. Rijidij (who went from V8 to 4BD1T - see his conversion thread) used his modified V8 rad. I believe he has had some minor issues (including leaking from the re-located pipe which has been fixed).

[rijidij]

The V8 one has a elbow at the top outlet and straight at the bottom, the zu is the reverse.
Does anyone know if its OK to convert the V8 rad (only $500, that's more like it)by simply welding on different outlet pipes?(D3Jon has heard of it being done) Has it got the same cooling capacity?
What have others done...surely no one should pay this much for a radiator???!!!:eek:

When I did my conversion I had the V8 radiator outlets swapped around to suit the Isuzu. This only cost $45. After 250000 kms in front of the V8 it was still in excellent condition......I presume it has something to do with the V8 being an alloy block. It has always been as clean as a whistle, never needing any maintainence in the 14 years I've had it.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/881.jpg



Rijidij (who went from V8 to 4BD1T - see his conversion thread) used his modified V8 rad. I believe he has had some minor issues (including leaking from the re-located pipe which has been fixed).

The bottom outlet did develope a slight crack, but I believe this was caused by the hose I had being too stiff and not the quality of the soldering job done in the conversion of the outlets. I had a metal elbow combined with straight sections of rubber hose. I had the crack repaired and changed to silicone hose and have had no sign of problems since, including a 8000 km outback trip.
I would not hesitate to use a V8 radiator again. Changing the outlets is really no big deal for a good radiator repairer. Soldering and repairing is a common part of their trade. It's no different to getting a custom radiator made for a hotrod, only this conversion is probably easier and cheaper because they use the existing outlet pipes and simply swap them from top to bottom and solder them back in the appropriate position.

[Red Rocket]

I agree with Rijidij, I wouldn't even bother changing the pipes, just make it work with hoses. The Isuzu never gets hot anyway! All of ours seem to always run below thermostat temperature. I can't see what the difference is other than the pipes.
I paid $800 a couple of years ago to recore a Stage one with the "Proper" core.
Red Rocket.

[rijidij]

Does anyone know if its OK to convert the V8 rad.........Has it got the same cooling capacity?

I just had a look at the radiator in my Isuzu 120 and the V8 radiator. Visually, they appear to be the same size.

[County3.9]

I just had a look at the radiator in my Isuzu 120 and the V8 radiator. Visually, they appear to be the same size.

Thanks rijidij and red rocket, you've helped a lot. I might investigate the V8 version a little more. Can you confirm that not only the rads are the same size but that they also use the same mounts (size, position etc)?

[rijidij]

Can you confirm that not only the rads are the same size but that they also use the same mounts (size, position etc)?

The bottom rad mounts are part of the chassis. I think you will find all the rads use the same mounting points, top and bottom.

[D3Jon]

Where did you get it done D3Jon?

Perth Radiator Centre, they did a great job:

http://http://www.perth-radiator.com.au/HTML/index.htm

Regards,

Jon

[County3.9]

Well, I found out some info from a very helpfull radiator guy that might help others.
The Zu rad has...
-5 pipes running through the core
-is more robust than the V8 rad
-the core is thinner than the V8 (I think, can't remember if I got that right)
-you can get a 3 pipe or 5 pipe recore with the 3 core being cheaper but slightly less efficient.
-the tanks are the same as the V8 rad
-The mountings are the same as the V8 rad

I went for the 5 core heavy duty rad and paid $862 from Martin at Express Radiators in Welshpool, 0405 237 346. I'm very impressed with his workmanship and his service. Importantly, he knows landrover radiators.

Hope this helps.;)

[Slunnie]

hmmm, I recently bought a County radiator from CLR for $350. As long as it cools the hot water enough, and holds it in there..... then I'm happy.

[County3.9]

hmmm, I recently bought a County radiator from CLR for $350. As long as it cools the hot water enough, and holds it in there..... then I'm happy.

Thats a great price! Was that new?