wheel carrier damage

[Dave110]

Chipping at what I thought was flaking paint where my wheel carrier fixes to the rear bumper I scratched bare metal, suspecting cracking to the bumper took the carrier of and found this damage $hit I said!!:o
the carrier is well designed and well supported with fixings and brackets obviously there is a need to strengthen the bumper so will weld the cracks and then weld a piece over the repair

Just a word of warning to those of us with Kaymar carriers

[isuzurover]

Wow - that's pretty serious. How many attachment points does the carrier have??? just 2?

[streaky]

Weld a couple of tubes into the rear cross member whilst you're at it then. That will stop any flexing of the outter chassis plate.

[Dave110]

Wow - that's pretty serious. How many attachment points does the carrier have??? just 2?

Its just attached by the large plate by 6 bolts and the fastening catch at the other end

onfurther wire brushing Its just about pulled the whole piece out :mad:

[isuzurover]

Its just attached by the large plate by 6 bolts and the fastening catch at the other end

onfurther wire brushing Its just about pulled the whole piece out :mad:

Bugger. I would weld a piece if 6 mm steel over that to spread the load, and make it large enough so it extends over to where the main rails join on.

Any chance you can add a couple of extra attachment points. The best ones I have seen attach at 4 points (both cappings as well as the lower pivit/latch on the crossmember).

I know a few people with that design who have covered many km of corrogations, with no problems.

[sclarke]

That is common with the Kaymar Carriers.. you need crush tubes and a nice plate on the rear...

A big plate that covers the whole area.

Get the rear crossmenber welded up then put some crush tubes in and get a plate that covers the whole rear of the crossmember where it mounts...

Clarkie

[Jeff]

A bit worrying, I touched the tyre carrier while backing up to a trailer and now it feels a little stiff. I start holidays soon so I will pull it off so to speak and check the chassis too.

Jeff

:rocket:

[hodgo]

Dave before you have the cracks welded make sure that you drill a hole at each end of the cracks or they could keep running.


Hodgo

[JamesH]

Well that was timely! Many many thanks

I am reading through all the wheel carrier posts at the momen. I was leaning towards Bearmach because carrier opening with the door is my preference. Then I got nervous about drilling and self installation (Rovercraft will sell but not install) - I started leaning towards Kaymer but thanks to you I think I'll go back to Plan A (Bearmach) and find somebody who isn't a total clutz with tools like I am. I know I'd get the interior cover off the inside of the by breaking all the plastic pins etc and never get it back on again, and that before i even started drilling.

[isuzurover]

Well that was timely! Many many thanks

I am reading through all the wheel carrier posts at the momen. I was leaning towards Bearmach because carrier opening with the door is my preference. Then I got nervous about drilling and self installation (Rovercraft will sell but not install) - I started leaning towards Kaymer but thanks to you I think I'll go back to Plan A (Bearmach) and find somebody who isn't a total clutz with tools like I am. I know I'd get the interior cover off the inside of the by breaking all the plastic pins etc and never get it back on again, and that before i even started drilling.

James - I have only seen a couple of carriers that tie into the door, but on both I was somewhat worried about the amount of movement in the pivots. They would really move around on corrugations.

[JamesH]

James - I have only seen a couple of carriers that tie into the door, but on both I was somewhat worried about the amount of movement in the pivots. They would really move around on corrugations.

Blast, that makes sense too. On big trips up until now I put one spare on the bonnet and another in the cargo area and all other times I just have the spare in the cargo area. I don't like the bonnet mount for round town. Now, the spare in the rear cargo area is starting to annoy me, but getting over it, costs no money and keeps everything protected (except me in a roll-over).

[rar110]

John Davis did sell a wheel carrier that had most of the wieght on the cross member, also attached to the corner of the capping and opened with the door and kept the door open. I had it on a previous county that did trips to the cape, WA and NT. Never had a drama with it.

[Bigbjorn]

Drill the ends of the cracks and vee them out with a die grinder before welding.

[Xtreme]

One method I've seen for overcoming the problems associated with the weight of the spare on the rear door is as follows:

Mount an adjustable boat trailer roller on your tow bar such that the spare tyre rolls up onto it when you close the door, thereby taking a lot of the weight and the resulting flexing off the door.
It's simple, cheap, does not add a lot of weight and is easily transferable from vehicle to vehicle.

[Dave110]

the reason that I chose the Kaymar was that I was worried that with a two point fixing eg rear member and body that some carriers have is the different flex characteristics between the two, hence the single point choice.
the repair will be welding, crush tubes and a big hunk of plate

[kowari]

Hi Dave110,

how long had the carrier been on the back of the landy ? ( or about how many Ks had it done hanging on the back)

you say you will use a bit of plate, I take it that you intend to bolt/weld it to the outside face of the crossmember as you cant get access to bolts etc on the inside ?

the metal bits boted to the back of the bracket in the third photo are from the inside of the crossmember ? if so did they come with the carrier?

I have the option of a second hand one at the moment but 1. it doesnt have a locking plate ($140 from Kaymar) 2. it doesnt have those bits of metal on the back of the bracket either. though there are a couple of bits that take the bolts from the grab handle on the back of the Landy.

[Dave110]

Hi Dave110,

how long had the carrier been on the back of the landy ? ( or about how many Ks had it done hanging on the back)

you say you will use a bit of plate, I take it that you intend to bolt/weld it to the outside face of the crossmember as you cant get access to bolts etc on the inside ?

the metal bits boted to the back of the bracket in the third photo are from the inside of the crossmember ? if so did they come with the carrier?

I have the option of a second hand one at the moment but 1. it doesnt have a locking plate ($140 from Kaymar) 2. it doesnt have those bits of metal on the back of the bracket either. though there are a couple of bits that take the bolts from the grab handle on the back of the Landy.

sorry been off line for a couple of days
the carrier has been on the landy for about 250,000 km

my intentions are to weld up the cracks and then weld a bit of 4 mm plate onto the crossmember as this will fit betweem the carrier and the crossmember and still use the bracing and the bolt that locates the bottom of the carrier

drill out the bolt holes to 16 mm and get some 16 mm mild steel bored out to make crush tubes fit 10 mm ht bolts and weld these onto the 4mm plate using another piece of 4mm plate on the back of the crossmember bolt the whole thing together so that the weight is distributed through the whole crossmember and not just one thickness of 2 mm that was the fault in the first place

those brackets in the 3rd photo are the fixing brackets that have 10 mm bolts welded to them the wire bits are just so that you can get them inside the crossmember easier but the new fixing method will be on the outside of the crossmember

when I do the modification I post it as a tutorial/project