2 1/4 ltr diesel

[Muzzery]

I have been wondering what the deisel four cyl engines are like versus petrol? for power, and economy etc. is it gonna be a good idea to set up my series iii ute with a diesel donk? any thoughts appreciated..

[Blknight.aus]

less power, more economy better lugging and better off road if you dont want to go fast.

[JDNSW]

The diesel is noticeably less powerful than the petrol engine, but makes up for this by low down torque - it will pull quite strongly down to the stall, although this is probably not good for it. This makes it quite acceptable off road, but on the road acceleration, particularly for lwb vehicles and if loaded or towing, is markedly poor, and speed will drop off on hills to a greater extent than for the petrol engine. It is a lot noisier and harsher than the petrol engine as you would expect.

Fuel consumption is very much better than the petrol engine, by perhaps 50%.

Surprisingly, the diesel engine does not seem to be significantly more durable than the petrol engine, although it will need less maintenance. Both engines last better if given regular oil and filter changes.

John

[isuzurover]

A diesel set up well can have the same or more power as a 2.25P. I have a late model (1979), rebuilt 2.25D in a 109" ute. Another mate has a rebuilt 2.25P in a 109" ute. The last time we went on a trip together, I beat him up ciunningham's gap, even though I have 33's and he has 32's.

I have extractors on mine a a couple of minor pump tweaks. It gets about 10 l/100.

I recently drove it from Brisbane-Perth - didn't miss a beat, but average fuel consumption was a bit higher (10.5 or so), because it was heavily loaded and we were usually sitting on 90kph (without overdrive).

[Muzzery]

thanks everyone, sounds good. i think i might look further into it. i'm a diesel lover.. my work ute is an 04 rodeo turbo deisel. love that grunt and reliability. and the exhaust smell too... this little town i'm in has plenty of hills, so i'd better equip the landy with a magazine rack for the hill climbs.i have also found a diesel donk for sale in maleny.!

[lro11]

A diesel set up well can have the same or more power as a 2.25P. I have a late model (1979), rebuilt 2.25D in a 109" ute. Another mate has a rebuilt 2.25P in a 109" ute. The last time we went on a trip together, I beat him up ciunningham's gap, even though I have 33's and he has 32's.

I have extractors on mine a a couple of minor pump tweaks. It gets about 10 l/100.

I recently drove it from Brisbane-Perth - didn't miss a beat, but average fuel consumption was a bit higher (10.5 or so), because it was heavily loaded and we were usually sitting on 90kph (without overdrive).

would love to hear about the pump tweaks?

[Aaron IIA]

I run a 1962 IIA 109 traytop 2.25 Diesel as my everyday car. It may appear a little slower than a petrol off the line, but a petrol will only be quicker by burning lots of fuel. Once up to speed, I find that it has about the same amount of power as a petrol. I usually am in top gear by about 25 mph, but you can take this quite easily down to 20 mph. The torque is fantastic. The engine will pull at low speeds, so low that other engines will not even idle that low. I just spent the better part of a week in the Flinders Ranges. Lots of nice steep tracks. The engine would happily work right down to when you could quite clearly hear each power stroke. The fuel consumption was about half that of the petrol that came along with me. When set up right, they are fantastic. You don't ever have electrical issues to worry about, no plugs or points to change, no carburettor to tune, and will actually start and run the vehicle (electrics included if you have a generator) with absolutely no battery. The injector pump that they use is a fully governed pump. This means that when you reach your desired speed, you do not have to move the throttle. The speed will stay the same when going up and down slight hills. I use it as a cruise control. The high compression of a diesel engine means that when you go down a hill, you very rarely have to use the brakes. You actually have to press the accelerator as all the other cars are braking. As for the noise, when you get up to speed, you can't hear the engine over the normal road noise anyway.
Aaron.

[Muzzery]

I run a 1962 IIA 109 traytop 2.25 Diesel as my everyday car. It may appear a little slower than a petrol off the line, but a petrol will only be quicker by burning lots of fuel. Once up to speed, I find that it has about the same amount of power as a petrol. I usually am in top gear by about 25 mph, but you can take this quite easily down to 20 mph. The torque is fantastic. The engine will pull at low speeds, so low that other engines will not even idle that low. I just spent the better part of a week in the Flinders Ranges. Lots of nice steep tracks. The engine would happily work right down to when you could quite clearly hear each power stroke. The fuel consumption was about half that of the petrol that came along with me. When set up right, they are fantastic. You don't ever have electrical issues to worry about, no plugs or points to change, no carburettor to tune, and will actually start and run the vehicle (electrics included if you have a generator) with absolutely no battery. The injector pump that they use is a fully governed pump. This means that when you reach your desired speed, you do not have to move the throttle. The speed will stay the same when going up and down slight hills. I use it as a cruise control. The high compression of a diesel engine means that when you go down a hill, you very rarely have to use the brakes. You actually have to press the accelerator as all the other cars are braking. As for the noise, when you get up to speed, you can't hear the engine over the normal road noise anyway.
Aaron.
well that's the sort off rap that would sell me! now i'm kickin myself a little, as i just bought a petrol motor today... haha nonetheless, i'll get my apprenticeship in mechanics whether i rebuild it, or just dismantle and learn. by the way, how much do you think a 2 1/4 ltr motor would weigh? tomorrow i have to get it out of the back of my ute...

[Aaron IIA]

You would want to have four very muscly blokes, or six standard men. I would strongly suggest a chain block. I re-enforce my shed roof with props whenever I lift or change an engine.
Aaron.

[isuzurover]

would love to hear about the pump tweaks?

Sorry - missed this...

I did a whole bunch of stuff at the same time (not just pump) - but here is a list:
Fitted Extractors (Lukey Brand)
Removed the SIII "vacuum brake" butterfly - this is a HUGE restriction. Either get a 12V vacuum pump or a vacuum alternator if you have vacuum brakes.
I also chopped (cut and shut) the intake manifold, so the air now enters from the top at the middle of the manifold. This was a clearance thing for my AC (air) compressor, but I believe it may have helped airflow, as the air would be more evenly distributed to all cylinders.
I swapped the crappy oilbath filter for a hilux filter box.

Now the pump mods:
There is a small steel barrel perpendicular to the main barrel of the pump. This is the advance mechanism. Inside is a plunger, ball, and 2 concentric springs. Some people pull the inner spring completely, I removed it and swapped it for a softer one (0.8mm wire instead of 1.1 mm). You can also machine down the plunger, but I am unwilling to do this until I have a spare.
Inside the square linkage housing there is also a combination of 12 different fuelling settings (linkage positions).
I only wanted a slight performance increase, so I have left these alone for now, and am happy with the performance I have. If I wanted to go further I would fit an EGT to make sure I wasn't fuelling too much.
My engione has little-no smoke out the exhaust (except when you really put the boot in, and even then, only a second or two).

[Aaron IIA]

Removed the SIII "vacuum brake" butterfly - this is a HUGE restriction. Either get a 12V vacuum pump or a vacuum alternator if you have vacuum brakes.

This would help a lot. You can also get belt driven vacuum pumps. This is what mine had before I removed it. I do not have a vacuum booster.



I also chopped (cut and shut) the intake manifold, so the air now enters from the top at the middle of the manifold. This was a clearance thing for my AC (air) compressor, but I believe it may have helped airflow, as the air would be more evenly distributed to all cylinders.

It sounds like you have made a manifold similair to a 2.00 litre diesel inlet manifold. As for the air compressor, I have mounted a york reciprocating compressor (again an old A.C. unit, but reciprocating units have a wet sump, so no lubrication issues) while still using the original 2.25 litre inlet manifold.

As for the pump modifications, I will have to try some of them.
Aaron.

[Mick-Kelly]

My old series 3 109 was a 2.25 diesel and it was my everyday car. Like most landys you just have to find the power band and try to stick with that. It wasnt great on hills though. One trip out to Condamine it left a smoke screen that would make koalas drop out of trees as we went up the mountain.

[isuzurover]

I have mounted a york reciprocating compressor (again an old A.C. unit, but reciprocating units have a wet sump, so no lubrication issues) while still using the original 2.25 litre inlet manifold.

As for the pump modifications, I will have to try some of them.
Aaron.

I also have a york. And after about 6 years, it failed me for the first time yesterday (hose blew). I need to get some high temp hose for the first couple of sections, as the air gets quite hot.

[dobbo]

My old series 3 109 was a 2.25 diesel and it was my everyday car. Like most landys you just have to find the power band and try to stick with that. It wasnt great on hills though. One trip out to Condamine it left a smoke screen that would make koalas drop out of trees as we went up the mountain.

The old drop bear generator

[korg20000bc]

Sorry - missed this...

I did a whole bunch of stuff at the same time (not just pump) - but here is a list:
Fitted Extractors (Lukey Brand)
Removed the SIII "vacuum brake" butterfly - this is a HUGE restriction. Either get a 12V vacuum pump or a vacuum alternator if you have vacuum brakes.
I also chopped (cut and shut) the intake manifold, so the air now enters from the top at the middle of the manifold. This was a clearance thing for my AC (air) compressor, but I believe it may have helped airflow, as the air would be more evenly distributed to all cylinders.
I swapped the crappy oilbath filter for a hilux filter box.

Now the pump mods:
There is a small steel barrel perpendicular to the main barrel of the pump. This is the advance mechanism. Inside is a plunger, ball, and 2 concentric springs. Some people pull the inner spring completely, I removed it and swapped it for a softer one (0.8mm wire instead of 1.1 mm). You can also machine down the plunger, but I am unwilling to do this until I have a spare.
Inside the square linkage housing there is also a combination of 12 different fuelling settings (linkage positions).
I only wanted a slight performance increase, so I have left these alone for now, and am happy with the performance I have. If I wanted to go further I would fit an EGT to make sure I wasn't fuelling too much.
My engione has little-no smoke out the exhaust (except when you really put the boot in, and even then, only a second or two).

I know this is going back to ancient history but I'm considering attempting your pump modifications.
First off, can the average Jo, like me, complete this work? My manual says that the pump unit cannot be serviced and needs to be returned to Rover for replacement. While I realise that diesel mechanics can service these units, is it likely that I could ruin the pump or not have the specialist tools required for the task?
Secondly... got any pictures?

Also, regarding the removal of the vacuum brake butterfly, can you just delete it or do you have to re-route/shut anything?

Thanks.

[Blknight.aus]

you can just drop the vac generator off then move the air intake hose onto the manifold and hose clamp it.

anyone who is confident enough to rebuild an engine can do the pump BUT

you really want to understand what all the bits do before you start changing things. Theres a lot of info on the net. Do your research then come here and ask questions.

the consequences of getting it wrong can include blowing the pre combustion chambers out of the head.

[korg20000bc]

you can just drop the vac generator off then move the air intake hose onto the manifold and hose clamp it.

anyone who is confident enough to rebuild an engine can do the pump BUT

you really want to understand what all the bits do before you start changing things. Theres a lot of info on the net. Do your research then come here and ask questions.

the consequences of getting it wrong can include blowing the pre combustion chambers out of the head.

Yeeee Haw!

I've been searching for days for info regarding modification and improvement of land rover diesel pump and nothing relevant comes up. In fact, there's barely anything.

If you could give me a gentle point towards the treasure trove of online information I'd really appreciate it.

[Blknight.aus]

try http:\\found lurking in Blknight.aus's roverstuff directory.wow

or check out the attachment on this post. That'll get you started.
25833

[korg20000bc]

try http:\\found lurking in Blknight.aus's roverstuff directory.wow

or check out the attachment on this post. That'll get you started.
25833

Thanks for that!
I'll get into it.

I am really surprised by how little I can find regarding tweaks to a land rover diesel. Most of the talk seems to be about what to upgrade to rather than improving what is already present.

[Blknight.aus]

the trick is to research the pump not the engine.

now FAIR WARNING.

the precombustion chambers are peened into the head of the 2.25 diesel. push the system to hard and the prcombustion pressure and heat will dislodge them.

[korg20000bc]

Thanks again. I'm not interested in pushing the envelope just get some improved performance. All I want to attempt at the moment is replacement of the spring he mentions.
As per isuzurover's description, do you think the spring he is referring to is
no. 121 in this diagram?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/06/1983.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/06/1984.jpg

... or are we talking no. 8 on this page?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/06/1985.jpg

[Blknight.aus]

yes, though its been a while since I had one apart weakening that spring will give more advance on the injection point from memory its a double spring with an inner and outer component to it.

[isuzurover]

Yes, that's the one. As Dave mentions it is a double spring. You can try removing the inner spring entirely, though some people have reported that doing that can make the engine detonate under acceleration.

[korg20000bc]

Yes, that's the one. As Dave mentions it is a double spring. You can try removing the inner spring entirely, though some people have reported that doing that can make the engine detonate under acceleration.

No... I ain't gonna try that. So all I have to do is remove that spring, get one the same length but of .8mm wire diameter, slip it in there and do it all up the way it was?

I won't need any special equipment?

Thanks for the help, men.

[Blknight.aus]

pretty much so long as the spring is the same length pitch etc etc....

putting a weaker spring in allows it to advance more earlier on in the rev range.

now the 30 cent questions.

1. Why does this make the engine run better and produce more power.

2. Whats the potential problems?

3. whats he worst part of the problem.

4. Why?

[korg20000bc]

pretty much so long as the spring is the same length pitch etc etc....

putting a weaker spring in allows it to advance more earlier on in the rev range.

now the 30 cent questions.

1. Why does this make the engine run better and produce more power.

2. Whats the potential problems?

3. whats he worst part of the problem.

4. Why?

From what I understand:

1. The softer spring allows for earlier delivery (and greater amounts) of fuel from the pump. This means more fuel is used to increase power i.e. a bigger bang

2. With a weaker spring there is more chance of the spring breaking or failing causing the timing to advance too early i.e. firing before TDC?

3. Complete failure and detonation, increased wear on parts.

4. Precombustion chambers being broken from the engine and catastrophic failure of the unit.

How'd I go?

[Blknight.aus]

From what I understand:

1. The softer spring allows for earlier delivery (and greater amounts) of fuel from the pump. This means more fuel is used to increase power i.e. a bigger bang

2. With a weaker spring there is more chance of the spring breaking or failing causing the timing to advance too early i.e. firing before TDC?

3. Complete failure and detonation, increased wear on parts.

4. Precombustion chambers being broken from the engine and catastrophic failure of the unit.

How'd I go?

close I'll give you 2/4...

Heres the same questions with some hints in the right direction.

1. Why does this make the engine run better and produce more power.

The engine runs better and makes more power because the injected fuel charge is ........ allowing .......


2. Whats the potential problems?

because the fuel charge is (part of the answer to question one) in the compression stroke the pressure (and temperature) of the combustion chamber ........ and the engine may experience ...... in extreme cases might .........

3. whats the worst part of the problem.

Making the adjustments takes advantage of the conservative settings of the fuel system. Doing so reduces.......

4. Why?
as the modifications would be done in a given environment a change to ......... or the quality of ............... could push some components past ................ causing..............



but a good first try.

[korg20000bc]

1. Why does this make the engine run better and produce more power.

The engine runs better and makes more power because the injected fuel charge is increased allowing more torque


2. Whats the potential problems?

because the fuel charge is increased in the compression stroke the pressure (and temperature) of the combustion chamber increases and the engine may experience overheating in extreme cases might crap itself

3. whats the worst part of the problem.

Making the adjustments takes advantage of the conservative settings of the fuel system. Doing so reduces economy, engine/engine component life

4. Why?
as the modifications would be done in a given environment a change to performance or the quality of parts production could push some components past design specifications causing Failure

Thanks for helping me learn this stuff, teach.

[Blknight.aus]

1. Why does this make the engine run better and produce more power.

The engine runs better and makes more power because the injected fuel charge is increased Introduced earlier allowing more torque(its correct in reality but not in this context)


2. Whats the potential problems?

because the fuel charge introduced earlier in the compression stroke the pressure (and temperature) of the combustion chamber increases and the engine may experience overheating(again correct but not in this context) in extreme cases might crap itself(ok yes, but what specifically)

3. whats the worst part of the problem.

Making the adjustments takes advantage of the conservative settings of the fuel system. Doing so reduces economy, engine/engine component life

4. Why?
as the modifications would be done in a given environment a change to performanceThe environment (temperature and atmospheric pressure) or the quality of parts production(read as tolerance) or Fuelcould push some components past design specifications causing Failure(near enough)

Thanks for helping me learn this stuff, teach.

corrects in green wrong in red corrections and more hints in blue.

your getting there, what Im shooting for is to get you thinking about how the otto cycle works and what shifting the injection point (think of it as the spark timing, it helps) does and what the implications of that are.

Then we can go on and just mess with chucking more fuel in.

[Veryan]

your getting there, what Im shooting for is to get you thinking about how the otto cycle works and what shifting the injection point (think of it as the spark timing, it helps) does and what the implications of that are.

Would that be premature detonation of the fuel, causing the piston to be force back before TDC - would this not shread your timing gear/cam/head?

[Blknight.aus]

thats the point that I was after.

Heres exactly what I was aiming at.

if you advance the timing too much when the fuel is injected it will ignite, like its supposed to BUT the piston will still be rising as the pressure increases. Get it early enough and you can wind up with the piston trying to go backwards.

The injection timing is advanced before top dead center because it takes time for the combustion process to initiate, develop the flame front, raise the pressure in the precombustion chamber and then eject the remaining fuel/air from the precombustion chamber where it can do its work inside the cylinder.

Roughly Its all about peak cylinder temps and pressures (Peak combustion temperature) pressures. IF you hit peak pressure after TDC youve wasted some potential power because the fuel air mix is being ignited late in the cycle and may not burn completely. Hit peak Pressure at TDC and your making the best use of the fuel available by making it burn as hotly as it can for as long as it can.

If you hit peak pressure before TDC the engine will want to try to run backwards, if the energy in the crank and flywheel is sufficient it will lift the piston up over TDC and then it will come back down under power. This is more or less diesel knock. ITs like petrol knock but a lot of times worse. This problem is exaggerated in a precombustion diesel engine and espscially ones like the 2.25.

The pre combustion chamber is peened into the head. If you put in too much fuel or put the fuel in too early more of the combustion takes place inside the precombustion chamber raising the pressure and the temperature. While this isnt a problem while the piston is still coming up when it starts to go down things get more annoying. With the pressure change as the piston starts its power stroke the fuel air charge can do some expanding due to the lowering pressure on the piston side of the precombustion "plug" at 2000 Rpm theres 1000 pressure cycles like this per minute per chamber.

With that given...

How many impacts does your average rattle gun make per minute?

What do most people use to free up a nut that a rattle gun alone cant shift? (no, Im not talking about wd40 or inox)

[korg20000bc]

Heat, of course. So the combination of heat and repeated knocking can free the precombustion chamber out of the block.
Thanks for the explanation.

That being said, was the 2.25 diesel engine an engine that was right on its limit regarding performance? Surely there must be some reasonable ways to get an improvement without dicing with death.

In the Series3 SWB on military 2a chassis I'm putting together (see here): http://www.aulro.com/afvb/remlr-projects/106072-bought-ex-army-88-chassis.html

I intend to use the 1982 diesel engine from this vehicle:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-3/86785-offer-made-me-3.html#post1055858

give it an electric fan to reduce some of the work load, maybe change the air filter and possibly extractors. I am trying to learn what I can about pump mods. I'm still a novice and don't want to regret putting a diesel in when I have a petrol sitting there ready to put in too.

[Blknight.aus]

yes, there are some gains to be made, and made safely, the purpose of this exercise is to expose you to some of the things that you may not have considered.

lets go back to engine 101...

at the end of the day a diesel engine is just an air pump. I dont care how much fuel you stick in it or when you stick it in. If theres not enough O2 then the fuel wont burn it just goes out the exhaust. this is why they invented turbocharging, but thats new school stuff. Its an old school engine so lets think about old school tech.

have a look at cleaning up the air intake and the exhaust, Theres an absolute mile of room around the engine, making up a custom air intake and an exhaust isnt that hard and youve got plenty of room to work with, can you say tuned intake runners and extractors?

If at any time with a NA diesel engine you can get it to blow black smoke you have too much fuel and not enough air.

I like to think the development of the 2.25 diesel went along these lines.

Marketing:"hey R+D, the farmers reckon the 7:1 compression ratios a bit light how much compression can we make the block handle without retooling"

R+D: "Hi marketing, uhhhhmmmmm"

weeeeeks later

Engineering: "HI marketing R+D have had a brainfart they've shown us and we made the engine do 20:1 but we cant retard the spark enough to stop it from pinging"

Marketing "huh? can you use words that sound like we can make money? we'll talk to R+D"

later in the conversation

R+D: "well no 20:1 is a touch high for petrol"

marketing: "so we have to retool"

R+D: "nahh just go buy some diesel in jectors ,whack em in the spark plug holes and drop an injector pump into the hole where the dizzy was"



as far as engines go, the 2.25 Diesel makes an unkillable platform to build a petrol on

[Veryan]

Ok, I know this is going into the theoretical and $$$$ territory here...but a thought or two or modifying the diesel:

1 - having a cam ground so that the exhaust and inlet ports stayed open for a little longer = more air in, and longer exhausting cycle = less exhaust in the cylinder when air is introduced, plus a little extra fuel - possibly a little more power? But would perhaps also mean:

2 - modifying the head for longer valve stroke and/or springs.

Not sure how much room there is to tamper 'up top' but a thought....? would I be right in saying that this may give the diesel a little more legs higher in the rev range but may loose a little torque down low?

as far as engines go, the 2.25 Diesel makes an unkillable platform to build a petrol on

I've often thought about slapping a petrol head on the block of a diesel, with a diesel crank, pistons and conrods. Indestructible indeed!

[JDNSW]

..........
as far as engines go, the 2.25 Diesel makes an unkillable platform to build a petrol on

I've often thought about slapping a petrol head on the block of a diesel, with a diesel crank, pistons and conrods. Indestructible indeed!

I think you are a little late for that - Rover did this over fifty years ago.

John

[JDNSW]

..........
I like to think the development of the 2.25 diesel went along these lines.

Marketing:"hey R+D, the farmers reckon the 7:1 compression ratios a bit light how much compression can we make the block handle without retooling"

R+D: "Hi marketing, uhhhhmmmmm"

weeeeeks later

Engineering: "HI marketing R+D have had a brainfart they've shown us and we made the engine do 20:1 but we cant retard the spark enough to stop it from pinging"

Marketing "huh? can you use words that sound like we can make money? we'll talk to R+D"

later in the conversation

R+D: "well no 20:1 is a touch high for petrol"

marketing: "so we have to retool"

R+D: "nahh just go buy some diesel in jectors ,whack em in the spark plug holes and drop an injector pump into the hole where the dizzy was"



as far as engines go, the 2.25 Diesel makes an unkillable platform to build a petrol on

Actually, as I suspect you know, the diesel (admittedly only 2l) preceded the petrol engine by several years. The 2.25 diesel using the same block as the petrol engine needed some improvements in manufacturing methods for the crankshaft, and it also had some minor changes to the head, I think to reduce the knock by improving combustion.

John

[Blknight.aus]

yep...

but I also know when they got the 2.25d sorted the same basic design elements lasted all the way into the td5.



one of the poopsngiggles experiments I was going to do when the replacement 2.25 turns up for fozzy was to deconvert the existing diesel into a petrol as a time laspe video and post it up.

What I would do you your specific situation is this. Install the diesel, spend some time tweaking the setup (extractors, air intake and pump tune)and if you dont like it swap the head, dizzy, lift pump and manifolds onto the diesel and make it a petrol.

After extractors the best (read cost effective) mod you can do to the 2.25p is install the cam from a diesel.

[ashhhhh]

What impact does the diesel cam have on the petrol engine? (in terms of power vs torque)

Im rebuilding a 2.25P at the moment and would consider the diesel cam if its worthwhile.

[Blknight.aus]

Off the top of my head (I dont have a spec sheet for both on hand)

it opens the valves earlier, a touch more agressively and has a bit more overlap.
If everything else isnt just so, you can get some hesitation issues at small throttle openings but when you've got it all opened up it gives you more torque down the bottom end and might steal a bit from the top.

I wouldnt do it if you didnt already have the rest of the breathing sorted out unless you needed to replace the cam for some other reason or had the engine apart for rebuild.

[korg20000bc]

yep...

but I also know when they got the 2.25d sorted the same basic design elements lasted all the way into the td5.



one of the poopsngiggles experiments I was going to do when the replacement 2.25 turns up for fozzy was to deconvert the existing diesel into a petrol as a time laspe video and post it up.

What I would do you your specific situation is this. Install the diesel, spend some time tweaking the setup (extractors, air intake and pump tune)and if you dont like it swap the head, dizzy, lift pump and manifolds onto the diesel and make it a petrol.

After extractors the best (read cost effective) mod you can do to the 2.25p is install the cam from a diesel.

I assume you're saying that to me.

Sounds like it could be a go-er!

Have you seen anyone's custom intakes and extractors? Any novel ideas?

I was reading that some military vehicles use snorkels all the time as the air intake. Gets it up out of the dust. Does a longer intake pipe decrease effectiveness, and is there an intake diameter size above which provides no additional benefit?

[Blknight.aus]

No, it wasnt aimed at you specifically, just a general observation, I have 3 dead petrol blocks at home that I acquired for a couple of specific bits, sadly none have manifolds or dizzys but thats a hurdle I'll leap later.

the best diesel air intake IVe seen is the petrol manifold but theres another version ID like to make which is similar but has all inlet runners the same length. and I've seen a couple of different extractor designs all of which are nice enough. any decent exhaust shop should be able to fabricate these up for you. and if they can do that theres no reason they cant make the air intake as well its the same thing just sucking in clean air instead of blowing sooty co2.

Realistically the mods that I'm doing to fozzy dont include any intent to make more power, I have enough as is most of the stuff Im going to be doing as part of the precursor to the rebuild is rejigging the fuel system (again) adding the hydraulics, swapping the alternator for a generator, putting a compressor on the engine and putting in air start.

[korg20000bc]

You mean the standard Land Rover 4cyl petrol manifold is a good option to improve the diesel?

As simple as that? It'd be a good starting option.

Do you think the oil bath air filter starves the diesel?

What do you think about a permanent snorkel idea?

Also, what's the point of using an generator instead of an alternator?

[Blknight.aus]

the oil bath oil filter (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/92156-oil-bath-air-filter-advantages.html) is the single best air filter thats ever been stuck in front of an engine...

and no, I dont think it starves the 2.25s in either flavor.

the cold air is nice but at the end of the day you dont really need it, especially if you run an oil bath filter, eventually the oil bath filter heats up and will negate the effect of the external cold air.

Fozzy was the only unsnorked diesel on the last cape york trip we did and he got everywhere all the lifted, bigger tyred and snorkled coilers got. That said when you start getting into paper element filters a snorkle is a good idea because it draws in cleaner air which means the element lasts longer.

the logic of the generator (when coupled with air start and a purely mechanical fuel system) is the ability to do a 0v start and then get everything else up and running. an alternator needs between 4 and 8 volts to get excited whereas the generator you just need to get it spinning.

[korg20000bc]

Well, you've sold me.

From what we've been talking about a normal airbath filter onto a petrol manifold on the diesel and extractors would give a appreciable improvement in the diesel performance?

Thanks for the brains trust.