89 Rangie Project & pics

[RaZz0R]

Hi All,

Figured it was time to get some pics up.
Going over the small things at the moment for getting rego & also sourcing bolt on's like a bullbar as well.

I was trying to decide if I should do a 2" body lift before rego or not, mainly due to the tyre factor and limits of what size I can fit with my rangie stock.

After much thought I have decided to do the lift kit after rego & after taking it out a few times, which mean cheap **** muddys go on till the lift. Was told about nangkang? but then googled them & found their real name of nangbang! :eek: But will be looking for something cheap over the weekend, read up the mongeral (sp?) tyres were ok.

Apart from that I love the owners manual :) easy to work out how stuff comes off... like the front spoiler they have fitted lol :)

She is a 89 Highliner.. as far as I can work out, and 3.9 V8? Auto. Done 260,638KM.

Stock as they come!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

My handy work this afternoon, taking off the front spoiler & finding out how to replace globes :)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Read on this site about some of the RRC auto's & how some had issues... trying to work out what mine is LOL!?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

I think this needs cleaning!! :cool: as well as new belts which I'll try to get over the weekend.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Also I read this was a design issue.... replace with reco or something else? :angel:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[Fish13]

Hey mate, nice looking Rangie, I'd say more likely an 1988 or very early '89. The trim changed in 89 (yours is the older type) and also it's a 3.5 with the cold start injector and the flapper type EFi. It also has the manual difflock (light on dash comes on) not the Borg Warner which again came out in '89.

Looks great, what other plans you got for it?

[Rangier Rover]

Hi All,

Figured it was time to get some pics up.
Going over the small things at the moment for getting rego & also sourcing bolt on's like a bullbar as well.

I was trying to decide if I should do a 2" body lift before rego or not, mainly due to the tyre factor and limits of what size I can fit with my rangie stock.

After much thought I have decided to do the lift kit after rego & after taking it out a few times, which mean cheap **** muddys go on till the lift. Was told about nangkang? but then googled them & found their real name of nangbang! :eek: But will be looking for something cheap over the weekend, read up the mongeral (sp?) tyres were ok.

Apart from that I love the owners manual :) easy to work out how stuff comes off... like the front spoiler they have fitted lol :)

She is a 89 Highliner.. as far as I can work out, and 3.9 V8? Auto. Done 260,638KM.

Stock as they come!
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/rangefront.jpg

My handy work this afternoon, taking off the front spoiler & finding out how to replace globes :)
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/rangefrtnosp.jpg
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/clearance.jpg

Read on this site about some of the RRC auto's & how some had issues... trying to work out what mine is LOL!?
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/trans3.jpg
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/trans4.jpg
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/console1.jpg
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/console2.jpg

I think this needs cleaning!! :cool: as well as new belts which I'll try to get over the weekend.
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/moto.jpg

Also I read this was a design issue.... replace with reco or something else? :angel:
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/airboxpwrsteer.jpg
Looks like a 87ish by the trim and Transfer box. Should be a 3.5 Lucus injected with ZF4hp and LT230Transfer and would have 4 bolt power steer box. They were a good model and a great one to build up.

[Scouse]

**Scouse puts on anorak**

She's an 88.
Heater pipes outside the inlet manifold, not under like the 87 ;).

[RaZz0R]

Hey mate, nice looking Rangie, I'd say more likely an 1988 or very early '89. The trim changed in 89 (yours is the older type) and also it's a 3.5 with the cold start injector and the flapper type EFi. It also has the manual difflock (light on dash comes on) not the Borg Warner which again came out in '89.
Looks great, what other plans you got for it?

mmm, so could be 88 by the sounds of it :) I do have this...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
but not sure if it would help.

At the moment its rego & then taking her out & learning about 4WD'ing, as I am a nub when it comes to it, however I do also respect the tracks, so I not going to go tearing them all up :angel: lol. I do have a close friend whom has setup an 80 series landcruiser with all the recovery gear. So will be going out with him a few times.

IF... and I do mean IF, I am happy with her after that, then I'll look at snorkel, 2" body lift & spring lift maybe, bigger tyres with it, new ECU etc, etc.... LPG too I guess :o

Now I am guessing since it has a locker & its a central locker that you can still fit front & rear lockers. which maybe one of the last things I do to her if I go down that road.

So Scouse says an 88 :) Rangie rover 87 :cool: What else can I look for to check?'


Rangie Rover: Looks like a 87ish by the trim and Transfer box. Should be a 3.5 Lucus injected with ZF4hp and LT230Transfer and would have 4 bolt power steer box. They were a good model and a great one to build up.

:twisted: good news then! So what makes this model a "Good" one. Anything I should watch out for or check?

Glad to know its not the borg warner, well from the pics I have seen anyway.

[Rangier Rover]

mmm, so could be 88 by the sounds of it :) I do have this...

http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/plate.jpg
but not sure if it would help.

At the moment its rego & then taking her out & learning about 4WD'ing, as I am a nub when it comes to it, however I do also respect the tracks, so I not going to go tearing them all up :angel: lol. I do have a close friend whom has setup an 80 series landcruiser with all the recovery gear. So will be going out with him a few times.

IF... and I do mean IF, I am happy with her after that, then I'll look at snorkel, 2" body lift & spring lift maybe, bigger tyres with it, new ECU etc, etc.... LPG too I guess :o

Now I am guessing since it has a locker & its a central locker that you can still fit front & rear lockers. which maybe one of the last things I do to her if I go down that road.

So Scouse says an 88 :) Rangie rover 87 :cool: What else can I look for to check?'



:twisted: good news then! So what makes this model a "Good" one. Anything I should watch out for or check?

Glad to know its not the borg warner, well from the pics I have seen anyway.
87/88 Who cares. They are the pick of the old Rangies. Depends how you treat it. Diff centers,10 spline shafts and post86 32 spline CVs are the bad. The Door locks and window switches can get playfull;) Easy to sort.
The old 3.5 dunny door efi are fairly durable.(Just need to know how to use a multi meter some times) The coolant hoses, thermostat whould be the starting point if it's been sitting around. Change coolant and oils. The ZF auto is cheap and easy to sevice so do it every 20000.

[RaZz0R]

Diff centers,10 spline shafts and post86 32 spline CVs are the bad.

mmmm... guess its something to check in to then?
But you said what I wanted/hoped to hear that they are the pick of the old bunch to get :) But more that I have been reading over the site nearly every day since driving her again & reading up for faults to look for more then anything.

Your right about door locks & window. The front passanger window does not want to work any more, nor does it central locking on that same door, but haven't bothered to hunt it down yet. any tips? lol :)

All hoses & belts I plan on replacing & will be looking for new ones over the weekend as well as new headlight globes. Thats all pretty easy stuff, its getting it all at a decent price ;) Trying to get it in to high or low range is bloody hard at the moment, Jamie at all Ranges 4WD will be doing most of the work on it tho & reckons its not problem to losen it up. As far as I know... its never been used as an off roader.

[HangOver]

I was looking at the pic of the plate you posted, can I suggest, unless it already has a name "Sall" (look at the plate) :D

I have an 81' rangie and think it's great now I have all/most the little issues out the way.

Can I suggest for your generic parts, (hoses/belts etc) check out the local supercheap first. I got a bottom rad hose I think it was only $15 at supercheap, much more from a dealer. I got other stuff too but don't expect them to have it in stock, they will need to order it but they are worth a call.
And keep your old ones as spares.

[RaZz0R]

:) good call - will be heading down to super cheap tomorrow :) just hope the hoses are decent & not so super cheap china made lol

[dungarover]

It's an 88 with the 'EA' suffix on the vin number. Also has the smaller cv's unlike the pre 88 models with the older style units (23 spline inner, still a 10 spline outer)

Trav

[Fish13]

All Rangies (if not Landies) start with SAL I think, each letter and number means something. The SAL designates it as a Land Rover UK product. 'LH' means Range Rover, 'A' is '100 inch', 'M' is 4-door station wagon, 'L' is 3.5l petrol, 3 is RHD Automatic Gearbox, 'EA' IS 1988 model year - Solihull build

Rest is your vehicle's personal serial number.

See Vin number chart post '79 (http://www.dingocroft.co.uk/vin_numbers.htm) for info.

Hope this helps,

Fish.

[RaZz0R]

Thats an awesome link there :) thanks a million mate!!

[Fish13]

no worries, glad to help. Keep us posted on how you get on.

[RaZz0R]

Well - finally got tyres lol 265/75/16 - fitted fine!! Buckshot Mudders from Maxxis.

Next two weeks see's it off to Jamie at all Ranges, shipping a bullbar & some flexi-flares.

Following two weeks are road wrothy / rego & then off road I go!! :) (Almost forgot! CB radio as well!! lol!)

pics!
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/IMGP0690.JPG

http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/IMGP0693.JPG

http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/IMGP0694.JPG

[Cap]

Sweet rig. I recon you will NOT be dissapointed with it in the rough stuff, very capable beasts. My bro lives in Chelsea and is just fixing hes 2 door rangie (small stuff) before heading out to hes spots. If your interested in hooking up with him for future trecks, PM me your details and ill PM you hes. Hes father in-law has a 80 Series too ;)

Cheers

[RaZz0R]

that would be cool :) I will be keen as chips to get in to it. Probly about a total of 4 ~ 5 weeks off, First place will be toolangi haha - I'll be sure to put up a post so members can come along to laugh & pull me outta stuff... IF I get stuck haha :D

[RaZz0R]

I was re-reading a thread tonight where I was asking about tyres & speakers as I undid the driver said front & rear door panels today to suss out the speakers & wired up a new head unit. Also yesterday I had to move the rangie & there is a heap of mulch - so I decide its a good I idea to drive right up on to it :) all good I thought, it sat there over night in the rain & then was moved today. However I noticed later that the driver side rear tyre mud lugs on the out side were sliced through!! probly about 5mm deep in to the tyre & about 10mm in. Only the top & only about 1/2 way around.

So I got to thinking, it was either me driving up & then back off the mulch heap of I also got some fuel & didn't slow up as much as I would have with the old tyres as the entry & steep... either way - that rear tyre has traveled up & rubbed on the guard, I had a look & there is a metal lug of some sort there & seems to be the cause of it, @ $250 a tyre I wasn't totally happy but now I knew to have fun with a grinder now :)

Anyway - the threads about the radio I was mainly posting at the time due to being bored & not being able to go pull things apart :) and getting to know the forum.... but now I can play hehe near kicked myself for seeing how easy it was to figure out :cool:

Thanks for all the info tho guys as it did help knowing what I should be seeing. I think I can fit rear door speakers but with a spacer - have to measure as I want a speaker in each door, the ones up at the rear of the roof all run via an AMP and also a boxed sub as well... so will be fun getting all that going. The front door ones I can see what you all mean by getting a small magnet lol :)

So - today saw testing of a new dvd head unit which I got as a bargain! :) and undoing some door panels working out my speaker system as I go.

She's also booked in to Jamie at All Ranges for work & road worthy.

TJM bullbar will be on its way this week as well so should have that in a week or two :)
CB Radio from prestige will be bought in about 2 weeks time as well & hooked up.

From there I just have to pick up some recovery items, spot lights I want :angel: spare tyre, with hope get my roof rack ;) and the amp & speakers.

Getting closer!! :twisted::twisted:

[RaZz0R]

copied from the electronic section to keep with the project


Well didn't get to finish today due to lack of light - but the head unit install is 95% done.

:cool:

I decided to use plastic terminals to wire up the radio. I later found that down the line of wire there was a plug for each wire... but then someone before hand had cut wires to wire in another head unit. Anyway - decided to atleast do the terminals since I got them.
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/radio/wiring1.JPG

I taped up the wires leading to & from each terminal & around the terminal it self.
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/radio/wiring2.JPG

I also put a fuse in - just in case & made an extra plug which will be used for the CB I reckon :)
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/radio/pwrfuse.JPG

Lots of RCA plugs for audio out for each channel, Subwoofer, Video out, as well as Audio & video IN puts.
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/radio/rcaplugs.JPG

And... this is what I mean by 95% done :)
It was a good idea at the time to use the plastic terminals... but now I have to tuck them up as I put in the radio unit & run the rca plugs for later use. Since it got dark I decided to leave it resting in there for now & tested it out. Works great, plays Divx & MPEG4 movie's plus DVD's & MP3's. Which is wicked as I can throw on a 4WD'ing DVD with some rock music while I am doing my own 4WD'ing :) hahah!
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/radio/unit.JPG

[RaZz0R]

:cool: Update...

Well... I have learned a few things in the last week. Like that coolant can turn to acid...

As such I also found out the welsh plugs in my current engine are not in good shape at all. Coolant leaking at the back of the engine as well, torque converter seal to the engine leaking, enough rubber mounts stuffed.... Bit of rust in the floor which is never good :) and to top it off... slow seep at the bottom of the fuel tank.

Doh huh?

So that was all totally unexpected & from approx 1.5 ~ 2 years of sitting... tho of course, some of these problems could have been around for sometime.
Faced with all this work needed just to get to road worthy, I thought about getting another rangie & pulling bits from my own... or the other way.

In the end I didn't pay anything for the Rangie bar a PC I fixed up & traded for it lol So... if I end up spending 4 ~ 5g on it - I can look at it as slowly buying a really good 4WD that I will know inside & out :) all part of the project really - however I never expected it to go this way.

So since thats all bad news... here is the good stuff.

Big thank you to Alex from Tassie - He shipped me over a TJM bullbar for the rangie & man its sweet :wub: Got it now sitting in a back room nice & safe for now.

Looking for second hand engine's :) Seems there is a 3.9 in Tassie which looks good but also waiting to hear back about some in NSW :) a 4.4 would be nice :)

Kinda bought up a question about the ECU - since the current is a 3.5 - would the current ecu work with 3.9, 4.4, 4.9 etc, etc??
If not I'll just get the Wolf 3D I was going to get anyway :)

Didn't end up buying my CB radio - its on hold till the engine & other problems are sorted.

This Saturday I will be picking up the rangie from Jamie with a full list of what needs doing. Once its cooled down & home all fluids will be drained & the process of pulling it all apart will start :) WooHooo!!

Also good news is a heap of mates have put up hands to help..... not that any of them know anything about a Rangie - but we should be able to work it out with the full manual. Two offer's from friends to get a engine hoist so that's cool :) engine stand is something I wouldn't mind getting to work on my engine & find out how badly corroded the engine is.

Apart from that... this will be what I will work on 100% of the time from now. How long will it take? no idea :)

My plan at the moment is to unbolt everything I can to prep removing the engine. Either way this must happen to correctly find out where the coolant leak is coming from & the find out how bad the cooling jacket is in the heads & block. Rubber mounts & torque seal come in to play when a new or fixed engine is fitted back in :)

So if you have any tip's in this area :) throw them to me :cool:

[rovercare]

I've got a 4.4 here for $650 with reco heads;)

[RaZz0R]

mm, update time... btw - thanks rovercare :) we talked :)

OK - Disco Steve is the man :) 3.5 V8 & other stuff coming along around the 27th of next month. woot!

Small set back & rangie never got picked up & wont till Monday now. No biggie really. Something good tho, The rear tyre of the 4 new one's I got was cut badly when the tyre rubbed, but I had asked the guys fitting them to make sure they wouldn't rub. Spoke with them today & they asked me to bring them back so they could sort it out. :) was pretty happy.

So since most of it is all sorted - Next week will be the start of major work on the rangie. Can't wait really. I like pulling things apart anyway :twisted:

so - will update as I go as it will be full throttle each time something new comes.

[pomonastik]

hi razzor
i was at allranges today and saw your car parked there. i think the clincher, apart from the v.i.n. of course, on dating the car as an '88 rather than '89 as it says on the rego sticker is the bicentennial number plate !
i see what you mean about the tyre damage. ouch ! but they are f***in' huuuge boots man......you will need to raise her quite a bit to clear them methinks. as soon as you get off road they will foul the body with even a hint of axle articulation. they may also upset a rwc tester because they should probably be on 8" wide rims. it might pay to 'borrow' a standard set of tyres & rims for when you run it under his nose.
i have an '88 too (well 2 if you include my spares vehicle). great cars.
good luck with her.

[RaZz0R]

Hey dude, those tyre's were the result of asking questions on here lol :) Also I asked the guys to try a few different sizes to solve the problem of what was the biggest I could get on the rim. I actually provided a list & pointed out that I didn't think the 265/75/16 would fit, turns out I was right.

She will get a lift, just after rego is done :) body cut as well.
Jamie has been really good about it.
I saw the year on the rego sticker - but sometimes that can just be when it was bought in to aus I thought? ... actually reading that to my self .. kinda just says how tired I am lol

The dark blue rangie there of yours is pretty much what I am after the start out with, go the bully & everything now :) roof rack will be chasing after she's running & what not. Grand plan will be rock sliders & all the other bolt on gear you can get. Since I am a wiss for computers & anything related to them, I have been trading fixing them for mate's & what not as of late to trade off making up sliders, helping with the engine change over & making up a rear bar.

I think in about 2 months she will be ready. I am aiming for lower tho :)

[RaZz0R]

Picked her up today ;) Jamie gets a 4 pak.
He listed in total 22 items to bring her up for road worthy - thats not even starting on off road stuff. But... the list aint all that bad.. apart from rust... talk about eating my words on the first post lol :angel:

THE LIST!:
1. bonnet cable broken - Easy to replace?

2. all hoses need replacing - will do anyway?

3. power steering box leaking (Input shaft area) <Requires reco? or new? remember reading I can rip them off up to a 94 disco?>

4. L/H Front window not working - new motor?

5. welsh plugs on block leaking - new engine will solve this

6. engine mounts cracked - will get a new set for new engine

7. sump gasket leaking oil - new engine will solve this

8. power steering pump leaking - on the hunt for it :)

9. Engine inlet manifold gasket leaking - new gasket for fitting on to new engine = easy

10. auto trans torque converter input seal leaking - is there where the engine bolts to? :) hope so lol

11. transfer case leaks - NFI? figure all ranges can do it?

12. exhaust leaks - solved with new system & extractors :)

13. fuel tank drain plug leaking - idea's?

14. rust in both front foot wells - this one has me ****ed for now - need to talk to a panel beater mate lol other then that.. how would one fix such an issue? plate wield?

15. front control arm bushes - all ranges?

16. rear "A" arm bushes - all ranges?

17. L/H rear wheel bearing (Will just do all 4 my self, easy dirty work :) )

18. front parkers (lol too easy - thats getting to road worthy small items)

19 all steel heater pipes corroded - hoping the sourced engine comes with them... or I am on the hunt.

20, 21 & 22 numbers items are small things I either did or know about & not worth a mention.. so .. thoughts? :)


Big, no, huge... no massive thanks to Disco Steve for all the tips, help & info plus the engine :)
Starting from now if anything needs replacing (apart from the engine) its a 4WD/off road after market part.
Stereo system is sorted :) yay
bull bar is waiting to be bolted on as well.
Tyres are getting fixed... I think lol that's another story.

Starting as soon as I can I will be taking pics & unbolting anything attached to the engine lol figure I got about 2 ~ 3 weeks to have it ready to come out for the new one including parts. So might have her running in the first week of August. :) That would rule!

[Rangier Rover]

Picked her up today ;) Jamie gets a 4 pak.
He listed in total 22 items to bring her up for road worthy - thats not even starting on off road stuff. But... the list aint all that bad.. apart from rust... talk about eating my words on the first post lol :angel:

THE LIST!:
1. bonnet cable broken - Easy to replace?

2. all hoses need replacing - will do anyway?

3. power steering box leaking (Input shaft area) <Requires reco? or new? remember reading I can rip them off up to a 94 disco?>

4. L/H Front window not working - new motor?

5. welsh plugs on block leaking - new engine will solve this

6. engine mounts cracked - will get a new set for new engine

7. sump gasket leaking oil - new engine will solve this

8. power steering pump leaking - on the hunt for it :)

9. Engine inlet manifold gasket leaking - new gasket for fitting on to new engine = easy

10. auto trans torque converter input seal leaking - is there where the engine bolts to? :) hope so lol

11. transfer case leaks - NFI? figure all ranges can do it?

12. exhaust leaks - solved with new system & extractors :)

13. fuel tank drain plug leaking - idea's?

14. rust in both front foot wells - this one has me ****ed for now - need to talk to a panel beater mate lol other then that.. how would one fix such an issue? plate wield?

15. front control arm bushes - all ranges?

16. rear "A" arm bushes - all ranges?

17. L/H rear wheel bearing (Will just do all 4 my self, easy dirty work :) )

18. front parkers (lol too easy - thats getting to road worthy small items)

19 all steel heater pipes corroded - hoping the sourced engine comes with them... or I am on the hunt.

20, 21 & 22 numbers items are small things I either did or know about & not worth a mention.. so .. thoughts? :)


Big, no, huge... no massive thanks to Disco Steve for all the tips, help & info plus the engine :)
Starting from now if anything needs replacing (apart from the engine) its a 4WD/off road after market part.
Stereo system is sorted :) yay
bull bar is waiting to be bolted on as well.
Tyres are getting fixed... I think lol that's another story.

Starting as soon as I can I will be taking pics & unbolting anything attached to the engine lol figure I got about 2 ~ 3 weeks to have it ready to come out for the new one including parts. So might have her running in the first week of August. :) That would rule! Thats not so bad:) Most old Rangies that are on the road have all the above:angel:

[RaZz0R]

really???

So I should be hoping it won't take all that much to correct most of this? Got any tips??

Tyres:

OK - the tire’s the current size on there which was fitted is 265/75/16 - WAY too big. It gives a total size of the tire from top to bottom 778mm.

I am thinking of going safe & dropping down to a 235/70/16 giving a total of 736mm, however... there is 245/70/16 @ 750mm... will this clear? any idea? Its totally stock height.

Lift.... in the FUTURE I plan to go body & spring lift, body first then spring... or the other way - haven't yet decided. Aaaaaanyway - While I was at the tire place fixing some issues with them, it was suggested to grab a set of nylon blocks for the springs as a "cheapie" lift to get tire clearance..

Got me thinking... it would be for short term till I go full lift... whats the pros & cons apart from not having full travel? is ti legal & safe to do for a short term?

[rovercare]

really???

So I should be hoping it won't take all that much to correct most of this? Got any tips??

Tyres:

OK - the tire’s the current size on there which was fitted is 265/75/16 - WAY too big. It gives a total size of the tire from top to bottom 778mm.

I am thinking of going safe & dropping down to a 235/70/16 giving a total of 736mm, however... there is 245/70/16 @ 750mm... will this clear? any idea? Its totally stock height.


Just cut the gaurds;)

[RaZz0R]

for what??? the 265 or the 245?

Jamie at all ranges told me I would need a spring & body lift to get the 265/75/16 buckshotters to work & not rub.

bloody qick reply :) thanks - I edited the post as well lol any idea about these nylon blocks?

[rovercare]

for what??? the 265 or the 245?

Jamie at all ranges told me I would need a spring & body lift to get the 265/75/16 buckshotters to work & not rub.

bloody qick reply :) thanks - I edited the post as well lol any idea about these nylon blocks?

Just cut the gaurds:p



for the 265's;)

[RaZz0R]

mmm, on a 4 door.. remembering the rear doors need to be cut as well... what about 2 ~ 3" of cut?

My main problem is the rear door when it comes to cutting it, I found some pics a gent put on here for a step by step cut job, just seems a problem with the rear door & cutting?

[PhilipA]

245.75x16 is the largest tyre that will fit a RRC without rubbing without a body lift.
Suspension lift is irrelevant unless you put on longer bumpstops (unless you never fully articulate.)
To fit 245.75x16 without touching under extreme conditions you have to grind down the bolt at 12 o'clock on the inside of the rear guards, and cut off the majority of the inward flange on the 12 o'clock to 3 oclock at the front of both rear guards. On the front all you have to do is wind out the steering stops a little.
Do not be fooled by how far away it all looks if the rear axle is on the bumpstops, as the bumpstop can almost fully compress under impact. I have seen an 86 with 245MTs pluck out the flange, even when it was about 25MM away with 4 blokes on the back bumper.
Regards Philip A

[mike 90 RR]

1. bonnet cable broken - Easy to replace?

Just follow the cable

2. all hoses need replacing - will do anyway?

YEP With new engine

3. power steering box leaking (Input shaft area) <Requires reco? or new?
remember reading I can rip them off up to a 94 disco?>

YEP ... and get the control arm ... Did mine to the 90 RRC
But do it with the engine out or you will have to remove the oil pump
and you may have to cut both sides of control arm by 10mm to fit to tie rod ends

4. L/H Front window not working - new motor?

Take off the door trim & direct power to it // if broken replace

5. welsh plugs on block leaking - new engine will solve this
YEP

6. engine mounts cracked - will get a new set for new engine
YEP

7. sump gasket leaking oil - new engine will solve this
YEP

8. power steering pump leaking - on the hunt for it

Should come with new engine

9. Engine inlet manifold gasket leaking - new gasket for fitting on to new engine = easy
YEP

10. auto trans torque converter input seal leaking - is there where the engine bolts to?

You will be looking at it when the motors out .... thumbs up

11. transfer case leaks - NFI? figure all ranges can do it?

wouldn't be a rangie without it

12. exhaust leaks - solved with new system & extractors :)

YEP

13. fuel tank drain plug leaking - idea's?

Undo the plug & empty petrol into bucket ... inspect for water & dirt
This will give you an idea of tank condition
Might be case of just doing it up again

14. rust in both front foot wells - this one has me ****ed for now - need to talk to a panel beater mate lol other then that.. how would one fix such an issue? plate wield?

Take & post a photo ... I suggested fibreglass

15. front control arm bushes - all ranges?

Install new

16. rear "A" arm bushes - all ranges?

Make sure you ask the how?? before you attempt this

17. L/H rear wheel bearing (Will just do all 4 my self, easy dirty work :) )

Check/ replace the rubber seals between bearing & diff

18. front parkers (lol too easy - thats getting to road worthy small items)
YEP

19 all steel heater pipes corroded - hoping the sourced engine comes with
them... or I am on the hunt.

Buy new if possible

[RaZz0R]

245.75x16 is the largest tyre that will fit a RRC without rubbing without a body lift.
Suspension lift is irrelevant unless you put on longer bumpstops (unless you never fully articulate.)
To fit 245.75x16 without touching under extreme conditions you have to grind down the bolt at 12 o'clock on the inside of the rear guards, and cut off the majority of the inward flange on the 12 o'clock to 3 oclock at the front of both rear guards. On the front all you have to do is wind out the steering stops a little.
Do not be fooled by how far away it all looks if the rear axle is on the bumpstops, as the bumpstop can almost fully compress under impact. I have seen an 86 with 245MTs pluck out the flange, even when it was about 25MM away with 4 blokes on the back bumper.
Regards Philip A

Mate thank you very much!!
I searched alot on this forum for that answer & else where, got lots of mixed answers. :) thanks again - I shall get them fitted tomorrow :cool:

[RaZz0R]

Mike, thank you for your tips a well mate :) I'll do the fuel tank as soon as I can, will be after the tires are fitted now :)

[RaZz0R]

OK,

everything is nearly sorted parts wise... including a new fuel tank :)

This weekend I am going to start unbolting things to prep the current engine coming out. So... any tips on where I should start unbolting things? :)
Anything you would do first or a set order?

Tires: well yeah... still haven't decided if I am keeping the 265's on or not, tyre place did a back flip on changing them. I am just trying to figure out if I should pull them & sell them here & then buy 245's... or just cut & pray it all pass's rego... ??

[long stroke]

Cut cut cut, and a 2" spring lift should clear them i think;)
Nice rangie by the way!!!

TIM.

[RaZz0R]

Thanks Tim!!

I was more worried about the cutting not passing rego.
2" springs are coming as well next weekend so I'll keep them tires hehehe

[RaZz0R]

update:

OK - So far, I have pulled the air filter & what I think is the sensor in between it & then inlet manifold. Dizzy cap & got the radiator out as well today - that was easier then I thought :) Dropped oil in the engine as well.

Next up I figured I'd keep on the cooling hoses & other bits that bolt on to the engine including the aircon..... Then to pull the fuel tank in the next day or two. by the end of the week she should be ready to come out :)

[mike 90 RR]

Make sure you take PHOTOS of the wiring harness & the hoses as they make their connections to places such as
Back of alternator / hoses to manifold (where they come from ...to) / hook up to coil .... so you don't get confused about ""what went where???"" when you try to reassemble

You'l get there yet
Mike

[RaZz0R]

Hey Mike,

yeah I have taken pics... but not that detailed... figured the full service manual would have the wiring diagram in it... its not too bad but I might snap a few places just in case lol

[mike 90 RR]

Hey Mike,

yeah I have taken pics... but not that detailed... figured the full service manual would have the wiring diagram in it... its not too bad but I might snap a few places just in case lol

The problem is since the day it was made, to how it currently is today ...people tend to change things (repairs) so wires & plugs can change colour // especially to the alternator ... and the hoses tend to be "moved about" which makes it hard to compare to the service manual if you don't know where it came from in the first place ;)

Once you you have completed this project ... you will be able to do this with you eyes shut :D and work off memory :)

Hows that floor pan ... did you post a pic for me to see??

On Ya :BigThumb:

[RaZz0R]

Hey dude,

I checked over the pics I have taken & I have been taking them pretty much all the way... :) pretty much.. but I have missed some around the alternator lol mainly because when I took the pic something was in the way, but I am talking about 3 plugs so I should be able to figure it out :)

Your right, somethings have been changed, but I think I am lucky so far in that I don't think much has been changed over the years.
I haven't got pics yet of the front foot wells with the rust... will be doing that tonight when I unbolt the aircon system.

Reckon I should also remove the air intake on top of the engine or leave it?

I'll post up more pics tonight when I get home :)
At the moment I have removed the rad, alternator & hoses/wiring around both of those plus the fan belt. Tonight will be aircon system & pipes.
Exhaust headers/pipes next I guess... probly have to get under to following some wiring to unplug...

Also have to unbolt the fuel tank, drain it & take out the fuel pump. :) I have got 3 days approx to do all that haha :)

After that I am a little lost... guess the fuel rails for the efi.

[Rangier Rover]

Coloured small cable ties:) (Super cheap Auto have them) can be usefull for id. Also a white marker. or Make lables with tape;) Cheers Tony

[mike 90 RR]

Coloured small cable ties:) (Super cheap Auto have them) can be usefull for id. Also a white marker. or MAKE LABELS with tape;) Cheers Tony

Take Rangier Rover suggestions Razzor

[RaZz0R]

yes.... I am .. errrr should have :p
Will get some tomorrow so I have an idea lol checked over pics & they are good, they are showing what was where for wiring as well so thats good :)

Didn't get pics of the floor today - will do tomorrow I hope & I'll put up what pics I have taken over the week, been taking pics as I do stuff.

[Rangier Rover]

yes.... I am .. errrr should have :p
Will get some tomorrow so I have an idea lol checked over pics & they are good, they are showing what was where for wiring as well so thats good :)

Didn't get pics of the floor today - will do tomorrow I hope & I'll put up what pics I have taken over the week, been taking pics as I do stuff.She will be right:D If you run into dramas one of us will post some pics of what it should look like:eek:

[RaZz0R]

Maaannnn... what a day.

dropped the pipe headers off the engine today.. but then spent the next 4 ~ 5 hours, in short, working :( but at a mates place getting his home network going... YES HE IS HELPING TO PULL THE CURRENT ENGINE OUT!!... well he bloody better be after tonight!

blah :)

I have uploaded pics... to here: Index of /~razz0r/Rangie (http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/)

Engine pics as I have been going are here: Index of /~razz0r/Rangie/motor (http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/)

and these would be the pics of the rust behind the front wheels, seems both sides have rusted along where the mud flaps screw in to a plate.... either way its not as bad as I thought... pics are here: Index of /~razz0r/Rangie/rust (http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/rust/)

There are some that I have questions about... so I will post them on here... just tomorrow as I am stuffed atm :)

[mike 90 RR]

Mmmmm
Looks as if the photos were taken of the front passenger side???
It's just the floor pan .. but not the chassie??

Consider just cleaning the area all up

Apply "Fertan" rust converter to neutralize the rust

Clean area & apply paint primer (not water based)

Cut up some Galv or Zinc coated sheet metal pieces to cover and apply to the "Inside of cabin side" .... Sandwich with black gooey "Sicaflex" and fix with Tek screws (Do not use "Silicon" .. as it is a rust promoter)

Use wafer heads (phillip drive) Cut off protruding ends of Tek screws

Paint all area with "Tar or Bitumen" to seal off the repair

[RaZz0R]

Mmmmm
Looks as if the photos were taken of the front passenger side???
It's just the floor pan .. but not the chassie??

Thats correct :) seems to be spot rust but thats it.



Consider just cleaning the area all up
Apply "Fertan" rust converter to neutralize the rust
Clean area & apply paint primer (not water based)
Cut up some Galv or Zinc coated sheet metal pieces to cover and apply to the "Inside of cabin side" .... Sandwich with black gooey "Sicaflex" and fix with Tek screws (Do not use "Silicon" .. as it is a rust promoter)
Use wafer heads (phillip drive) Cut off protruding ends of Tek screws
Paint all area with "Tar or Bitumen" to seal off the repair

Awesome! :) Thank you sir!
That sounds like a plan & will get her past the rego.
I was also thinking of doing a plate on the inside of the wheel well after rego for extra strength, mainly to stop something getting punched up through the floor.

You can see in this pic a bit of the skin I peeled back - it has rusted all the way through.
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/rust/IMGP0738.jpg

rest of it seems to be just surface rust tho on the chassis & brackets


tThere is a little on the drivers side as well - along the same area & side rails?
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/rust/IMGP0741.jpg

But not as bad so should be fairly easy.


Here is one for you all - the accelerator cable, how the hell does it come off at the back of the efi? lol tried working it out, maybe 50% of the way there.

Another is, I was really hoping I wouldn't have to unplug all the wires for the EFI, but it seems the wires lead back in to the fire wall with no plugs or breaks. any idea's?
Should I remove the efi for lifting the engine or just leave it? Seems I will have to lift the top of the air intake anyway to unplug everything.


I decided that it might make it little easier to remove the engine if I remove the fan & shaft from the front - ie the water pump. Got it all unbolted.... only to find a plate also holding the power steering pump haha :) so tht has to come off first & was going to come off anyway.


BTW - Disco Steve - I did find the transmission oil cooler!!! :) nicely hidden away. haha
Steve is coming down vic way next week, to bring a long engine which had new rings done 10,000km ago. long range fuel tank & a bunch of other gear :)

Oh and one more...

IS.... there any trick to getting the top 6 bolts undone for the bell housing? Seems bloody tight up the back in there & I couldn't even see them lol Going to check it out more tomorrow tho.
:angel:

:twisted: loving the stained hands lol working as an IT geek & doing this after work has people asking me what I am doing all day. With the soft hands the grease is ingrained in my skin atm even tho I scrub for ages after lol

Just thought of another.... the starting system of the engine coming next week is not points... something else & I can't remember it right now lol - but I remember being told I would have to wire it in & it is a must better / strong spark then the stock points system????

[timaus13]

Hello mate following ure progress.
My rangie had most of the issues you are dealing with.
He Shrek Rover is sorted now just need to get high beam back and wiper washer motor replaced and new Transbrake pads.
I will never sell my Rover as he has taken me to some amazing locations and back with comfort and warmth. heaters are the best in a vehicle I have ever owned. Power Steering was rebuilt by PO as well as the Gbox and transfer case.

He is my lifelong project Expedition Vehicle.
Al I am going to do to finish him off is add a full roof rack and rear wheel carrier + 2 jerry can holders on the rear bar.

Keep up the pace and you will have a rig not only to be proud of with all the work u r doing but also one that will amaze your mates with with its comfort and capabilities.
PS

Its all worth every second of ure time to reach the end result.:):D:)

Keep an eye on this forum re Upcoming trips WHite Timber Trail as our local Tassie 4x4 group will be doing a run there tomorow and posting pics into the forum.
Carlos 1986 Range Rover
Mark Diso
Gary FJ 40 Shorty
Mark Hilux
Dave Disco

Hopefully more will arrive on the day at Meeting point.
Cheers
Tim
AKA Rovertas / Gadgets

[RaZz0R]

Hey Tim,

Thanks for the post :) Every day is a bit closer to having it done. I am cutting the damn pipes off tomorrow as it will be eaiser & I don't need them anymore haha :)

I guess since I am doing all this I am also spotting other things to check over or fix up - all with the idea that once I have finshed - it should only need maintance & running checks :) well... untill I get right in to the off road & get lockers - if I go down that road. All depends - bit by bit.

[mike 90 RR]

Hi Razzor
Well the hands are dirty .... Rags and Orange soap wash to get em clean :)

Do you have a car manual for this job?? ... If not ... buy the "Haynes" manual
It will explain step by step how to remove the motor .. absolute must read .. Ya gotta read something in the dunny anyway :p
Or get the RAVE CD off this site


Those 6 bolts ... I think you have to remove the center console inside the car ... underneath it is a section of the floor pan that can be removed (unbolted)

Presto ... the 6 bolts

The cable to EFI .... twist the "throttle open" by hand and "flip / lift" the cable over backwards ....towards exit hole at back

The EFI wires .... Just unclip at injectors and then "Feed" the wires back towards the firewall ... leave dangling for new engine

The oil cooler that was found under the front grill .. Don't cut it ..take the time to unbolt it

Get the radiator out, and undo the section of panelwork between the headlights ... this is the EXIT space for the engine to go through

PS: someone correct me if one of the procedures is wrong :angel:


Bet you can't wait for the 3.9 ... :D

Mike

[RaZz0R]

Nice :)

Nah not cutting the oil cooler!!!! lol only thing that is getting cut is the pipes from the headers & any other part of the system that I can't get undone as the headers are off. (Ie muffler and others

The rad is out already - awesome tho!! I'll now go ahead & unbolt the aircon condenser & oil cooler & undo this front panel :)

Its actually a 3.5 - same engine so its easy to swap over for the efi & everything. But next weekend is comes & yes - I can't wait!!!

Rear bar, roof rack, fuel tank, engine & a few other goodies will be here next Saturday & I can't wait!! :D

[mike 90 RR]

When you undo the compressor ... remember its full of gas and it is cold as ice .. depressurized it via looking for a valve (should look just like a car tyre valve) and push down there ... Don't breath the vapor!!! wear gloves!!! use a long rod to push!!!

BE CAREFULL when doing this ... other way is to just crack one of the nuts and allow it to seep out

Technically speaking tho ... it is supposed to be depressurized professionally and the gas is supposed to be collected contained for proper disposal or recycle


Exhaust system .... If you are going to use the same exhaust system for the new motor ... Don't cut them // just wire tie them to the sides ... use the headers for the 3.9 (unless there not the same or unsuitable) .... or are you putting on extractors???


or .... Leave it to when the engine is out ... then cut or unbolt, as you will have a big hole (engine removed) to work from


Mike

[Disco Steve]

When you undo the compressor ... remember its full of gas and it is cold as ice .. depressurized it via looking for a valve (should look just like a car tyre valve) and push down there ... Don't breath the vapor!!! wear gloves!!! use a long rod to push!!!

BE CAREFULL when doing this ... other way is to just crack one of the nuts and allow it to seep out

Technically speaking tho ... it is supposed to be depressurized professionally and the gas is supposed to be collected contained for proper disposal or recycle

Mike

oh, so cutting through it with a knife isnt right???:confused:

[mike 90 RR]

oh, so cutting through it with a knife isnt right???:confused:

:Rolling: (sorry ... my immediate reaction)

The shock of gas going off every where must have been mind blowing :p

I had fixed & just painted my rangie and was proudly showing folks on the job i had done when all of a sudden WHOOSH and a FRGGIN HUGE cloud of mist enveloped the WHOLE CAR ... like a nuclear bomb went off ... hose split and let ALL the gas out in ONE HIT

Back to drawing board ;)

[Disco Steve]

:Rolling: (sorry ... my immediate reaction)

The shock of gas going off every where must have been mind blowing :p

I had fixed & just painted my rangie and was proudly showing folks on the job i had done when all of a sudden WHOOSH and a FRGGIN HUGE cloud of mist enveloped the WHOLE CAR ... like a nuclear bomb went off ... hose split and let ALL the gas out in ONE HIT

Back to drawing board ;)

wasnt a shock as I knew what I was cutting into. was funny when I yelled "quick mum run thats LPG":wasntme:

[RaZz0R]

HAHAHAHA!! Funny as...


That gas umm... kinda some how was gone. :angel: lol was there the other day, then it was gone over night.... :whistling: :coplight: Air cons out already :)

extractors are going on the new 3.5 :)

currently it looks like this :

http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/current1.JPG


http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/current2.JPG



power steering pump still to come off & drain as well ;)

[mike 90 RR]

Thanks for the progress photo

FIRST THING TO DO before you go any further .....
That big plastic fan needs to come off BEFORE you take off the fan belt
If you look behind the fan you will see that it is a big nut connection to the water pump

1:Get a big spanner that fits the nut & place on nut ..... The nut undoes "Clockwise" (reverse to normal) // apply pulling weight with the free hand on spanner

2:Use a Hammer and hit the side of spanner to "Jar" the nut loose .... If you try to pull the spanner only , the fan belt will keep slipping (just doesn't work)

You need the fan belt on (Tight) to help STOP the water pump from turning

Tip ... You can use a adjustable spanner .. but take the time to make it nice and snug on the nut ... or you will round it off


:) :) :) :)

[Disco Steve]

Thanks for the progress photo

FIRST THING TO DO before you go any further .....
That big plastic fan needs to come off BEFORE you take off the fan belt
If you look behind the fan you will see that it is a big nut connection to the water pump

1:Get a big spanner that fits the nut & place on nut ..... The nut undoes ANTIclockwise (reverse to normal) // apply pulling weight with the free hand on spanner

2:Use a Hammer and hit the side of spanner to "Jar" the nut loose .... If you try to pull the spanner only , the fan belt will keep slipping (just doesn't work)

You need the fan belt on (Tight) to help STOP the water pump from turning

Tip ... You can use a adjustable spanner .. but take the time to make it nice and snug on the nut ... or you will round it off


:) :) :) :)


I just took the whole thing out as one and worked on it on the bench:D

[mike 90 RR]

Mmmmmm ... it's to be a 3.5 motor

Lot's of controversy on extractors .... Do a search on the subject....

I would put my doe into a good 2.5inch exhaust system and keep the headers
But ... It would be good for a "Blower kit" Powerrrrrrrrr

and a new dizzy system i hear ... Haltech???

[RaZz0R]

Thanks for the progress photo
FIRST THING TO DO before you go any further .....
That big plastic fan needs to come off BEFORE you take off the fan belt
If you look behind the fan you will see that it is a big nut connection to the water pump
1:Get a big spanner that fits the nut & place on nut ..... The nut undoes ANTIclockwise (reverse to normal) // apply pulling weight with the free hand on spanner
2:Use a Hammer and hit the side of spanner to "Jar" the nut loose .... If you try to pull the spanner only , the fan belt will keep slipping (just doesn't work)
You need the fan belt on (Tight) to help STOP the water pump from turning
Tip ... You can use a adjustable spanner .. but take the time to make it nice and snug on the nut ... or you will round it off
:) :) :) :)

I spent a long time trying to find this said nut & couldn't.

There is a space no the shaft for the fan that has notches for a spanner to go on to, but I couldn't see how it would unwind anything. So I undid the bolts holding on the pulley wheels & pulled them toward the fan to check out the shaft - it runs directly in to the water pump with no notches there either, so I figured if I took off the water pump the whole shaft would come off anyway? :) So the fan belts already off lol

Spent hours looking for what you described.

[RaZz0R]

Mmmmmm ... it's to be a 3.5 motor
Lot's of controversy on extractors .... Do a search on the subject....
I would put my doe into a good 2.5inch exhaust system and keep the headers
But ... It would be good for a "Blower kit" Powerrrrrrrrr
and a new dizzy system i hear ... Haltech???

NFI on the new dizzy system... Steve?? :)
same with the exhaust system, I think its 2.5 or 2"


mmm, controversy?? for what fuel lol
or getting them running right?

mmm

/me goes off on search

[mike 90 RR]

I spent a long time trying to find this said nut & couldn't.

There is a space on the shaft for the fan that has notches for a spanner to go on ..... Thats the nut i am on about ....... , but I couldn't see how it would unwind anything. .....Put spanner on it & hit with hammer .... Remember "Clockwise"






So I undid the bolts holding on the pulley wheels & pulled them toward the fan to check out the shaft - it runs directly in to the water pump with no notches there either, so I figured if I took off the water pump the whole shaft would come off anyway? :) So the fan belts already off

Spent hours looking for what you described.

If you can ... put it all back (fan belt) and try it ... should take 20 miniutes ... (it's only one belt & a tensioner & the 4 bolts to the pulley)

[RaZz0R]

yeah I'll do that tomorrow ;) cheers

still looking for the 3.5 and extractors in search & not getting anything ??

[mike 90 RR]

still looking for the 3.5 and extractors in search & not getting anything ??

Ditto .... IM still looking for it too ... can't find the post i was after ;)
One of the boys basically spoke of readings given out on the Dyno

Put a post up in technical .... Extractors Yes or No?? :wasntme:
My theory is that they arn't restrictive /// only if you get bigger heads / ports will you need them (Larger ports)

Catch ya

[RaZz0R]

mmmm, pitty ya all the way over there in WA, sounds like a convo to have over a beer :)
Might get over there when al this & a bit more is done - via alice of course haha.

mm, so are not restrictive.... only if you do a port job & get bigger heads....

Knowing more about bikes then cars in this department, I'll give this a shot.

How do extractors work?
On a standard engine, burnt exhaust gases are dumped from the combustion chambers (cylinders) into a single piped manifold, which is attached to the exhaust pipe.
This dumping cause’s turbulence in the manifold, since there is not enough space for all the exhaust gases, a higher level of engine back pressure is created, making the engine work harder to force out exhaust gases, wasting engine power.
Because the exhaust gases cannot get out of the manifold, into the exhaust system efficiently enough, some of this gas is forced back into the combustion chamber, diluting the air/fuel mixture. Robing your engine of more horsepower and resulting in fuel combustion efficiency being reduced, causing the engine to run hotter and wear faster.

So if that be true, your limits are only going to be your exhaust ports/ and or cams, if you bolt on extractors & a good system.

The system is a 2.5" full system, so mixed with the extractors, which are really just like big bore headers, it should flow as free as the ports will allow & perhaps a little more then the stock headers allow.

Tuning might be a small issue tho with the standard ECU, I want a new one anyway, but just down the track. biggest issue might be some popping till the standard one is tuned as much as it can be (If it can be??) I think most can be done in 5% increments??

But I'll keep on looking as a snorkel will be fitted as well.

[mike 90 RR]

Don't get me wrong .. Extractors do work .. but the head/motor needs to be Hi performance .... On 2 stroke bikes// they just luv them (tuned pipes)

If you have a good look at the design of the cast iron one that you have, you will notice that it is a two piece flow design (Casting as a 1 piece) that "turns" towards to 2 pipe exit
Another thing is .. motors need "some" exhaust back pressure to work properly .. not total freeflow

Bang for buck speaking .. At $600 ... not worth it (in my opinion)
But .. the 2.5inch system with straight through muffler ... worth it
I would dump the original muffler if it has the Landrover stamp on it

Performance wise .. I would stick my money on this http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery/60236-powerchip.html

The computer is found in 1990 onwards (black box) ... I think you have the silver box

My thoughts only

[RaZz0R]

:) this has started a good convo wth my house mate as well hehehe

But yeah, at the end of the day if you want to it 100% right, a port & flow with shaved heads is the way to go. Back pressure comes from the pipe itself, set sections with set bends & the mufflers as well. :) It will work & maybe get 5 ~ 10% increase, but I am not doing it for performance, I am doing it coz I got them & coz I need a new pipe system anyway :) In the future I might go ahead & do a port or shave the heads.

Powerchip :) Now I found both a black box & silver one. The black on was attached on to rubber piping from the airfilter to the efi air intake, the silver one I found behind all that bolted on to a bracket. I figured the silver one to be the ECU & the black on to be the sensor for air intake?

[RaZz0R]

Hey Mike,

Thanks for that info - the fans off :D

and I managed to undo the nuts for the pipes to the headers :) so headers are off!! YAY!

Going back out soon to do more ;)

[RaZz0R]

woot - go the rain... not :(

transmission oil is flowing out as I decided to drop it as well (may as well change it)
When I was under there I found 2 rubber mounts for the transmission / transerfur case.

They need replacing as well... it looks like there is enough space to jack up the transmission enough to sip out the old rubbers & put in the new... ideas?

[RaZz0R]

called eastern power steering today, 495 for a swap over to a reco steering box... hows that price sound?

AMV in ringwood have the seals I need including engine mount rubbers, picking those up Saturday morning :)
Plan is to have the engine out this weekend & new one in. going to be a mission.

I printed about 140 pages off the manual of how to remove & install an engine so I'll be reading up big time.

Let the real fun start :D

[pomonastik]

woot - go the rain... not

i know whay you mean mate. what is it about the design of a rangie that opens the heavens in direct proportion to how many bits you have got undone ?:mad:

[RaZz0R]

lol pretty much.

update:
Next on the list is to remove centre console & find a section of floor pan to remove, thus giving me access to the top of the bell housing. (And a look at the rust better)

This Saturday a group of mates will be around with a hyrdo crane to help remove the engine :) plan is to remove this one, remove efi & bolt on to new engine, then fit the new engine to the car. From that point I can do the rest myself ;) but that is the aim for the coming weekend.

Should be a ball!

[Rangier Rover]

i know whay you mean mate. what is it about the design of a rangie that opens the heavens in direct proportion to how many bits you have got undone ?:mad: You got that right. My workshop faces NE and quess wich way the wind blows when it rains here:(

[pomonastik]

My workshop faces NE and quess wich way the wind blows when it rains here

in the style of monty python's four yorkshiremen:

you're lucky to 'ave a workshop, i dream of working in a workshop. i lie on the cold ground wi' nothing but a newspaper twixt me and the gravel. a garage would be a palace to me etc etc

[Rangier Rover]

in the style of monty python's four yorkshiremen:

you're lucky to 'ave a workshop, i dream of working in a workshop. i lie on the cold ground wi' nothing but a newspaper twixt me and the gravel. a garage would be a palace to me etc etc
Boyle's law of sheads applies for mine. Sht expands and fills space:mad: So I often end up on cold wet ground as well:( So then light up the 44 gal drum:twisted: It sure is nice to have a bit of space with concrete floor. Recomended:) Cheers Tony

[RaZz0R]

I too dream of a good work area.. the area I have is pretty limited :(

[Rangier Rover]

I too dream of a good work area.. the area I have is pretty limited :(
I would make it hard with limited space. I had heaps of space here for years but also have years of unfinished projects:(

[RaZz0R]

mm, perhaps a little harder, not much tho ;) esp when it comes to removing this engine Saturday. in fact I'll have more space on saturday :)

[Rangier Rover]

mm, perhaps a little harder, not much tho ;) esp when it comes to removing this engine Saturday. in fact I'll have more space on saturday :) In the beer fridge:p;)

[RaZz0R]

lol yeah beer will be running high/low on that day lol

Cracked all the bolts for the fuel tank, its ready to drop, all hoses bar one I think are set to go.

Also - I am unbolting a towbar that I have on there. Kayman/reese one. Fits with the standard bar fitted ;)

Got the last rear mountng done for the pipe system, so thats pretty much ready for the new 2.5" :) but I'll have to still cut some sections to get it all off.

next is centre console - then floor pan section for bell housing bolts ;) FUN FUN FUN!!

[dungarover]

Whilts on the subject of tanks, I would cut a access panel for your fuel pump for future mishaps. I did this on the 87 Rangie because pre 3.9's don't have a fuel pump access and you have to drop the tank to change it. Not always a practical option in the middle of nowhere if your fuel pump goes :(

I used an old floor from a wreck, still have some actually but with a few screws and some sealant, you wouldn't know it's there :)

Trav

[mike 90 RR]

lol yeah beer will be running high/low on that day lol

Cracked all the bolts for the fuel tank, its ready to drop, all hoses bar one I think are set to go.

Also - I am unbolting a towbar that I have on there. Kayman/reese one. Fits with the standard bar fitted ;)

Got the last rear mountng done for the pipe system, so thats pretty much ready for the new 2.5" :) but I'll have to still cut some sections to get it all off.

next is centre console - then floor pan section for bell housing bolts ;) FUN FUN FUN!!

Hey Razzor .... If ya keep unbolting ... that chassie is gonna fall off it's rails :p :p :p
Bet you have got a fair amount of skin missing off your knuckles .. ;)

Take it easy and enjoy the "rebuild" :)

Mike

[RaZz0R]

aquarangie - that's a really cool idea :) I'll do that, after rego ;) hehehe

Mike!!! HAHAHAH!!

I have to admit today I got a really good smack of the hand when my socket wrench
slipped while I had full strength applied - hurt like a mofo!! BUT!!!
Since I work in IT - my poor soft baby hands, only got 2 .. no wait.. 3 chunks of flesh missing off the right index & middle finger knuckles lol :) So I have done well.... to be honest, it has been pretty easy getting all this off & the only bolts that gave me trouble were the pipe bolts, even then I expected the headers to be the worst, but it was the mid mounting bolts that were the worst hahah :)

Also I wanted to use my wit(lol) to see how much I could do with out going back to the manual or just asking a question & working it out - have you guys to thank for the help ;) but managed to work most of it out & apply logic to it.... which brings me to the rangie. I like the way the thing was built. Its... just logical... well some times I have to admit when nutting out how to take something off, then going, "Awesome bit of engineering!! Very logical!" But then not more then 20mins later I would go "Now what tard had that ****ed up idea???!!!" :) I am sure I'll have lots more of that to come.

[Scouse]

next is centre console - then floor pan section for bell housing bolts Really?
I've never removed the floor to access the bellhousing bolts (can the floor section even be removed on an '89?).

Get yourself a long 3/8" extension, remove the engine mounts & drop the engine down an inch or two for easier access.

[RaZz0R]

mmm, now I am worried lol
It was suggested to me that the removal of a section of floor pan will give easy acess to the top of the bell housing & it is also how landrover recommend doing it. This section is meant to be under the centre console....

Other wise yes... its that bar.. but ffs, there is stuff all room under there, no body lift - and I am trying to make it easy....

****, now I don't know if I should go ahead & undo the centre console tonight or not :(
Anyway to know for sure? apart from doing it?

Tonights list is:

Final removal of the fuel tank & drain it
final removal of the exhaust pipes (bit of angel griner cutting :) )
Unbolt plate for access to torque convert / drive flex plate
Mark EFI wiring & undo the rest of it
Unbolt starter motor & 2 final ground wires
Unbolt transmission oil cooler bracked along engine
Unbolt the steering box - or atleast get most of the bolts cracked
Crack bottom bellhousing bolts
Figure out how to get to the top of the bellhousing bolts either via centre console, via removeable floor section, or fuggin long bar to socket wrench - So its ready for the Saturday

[Scouse]

Other wise yes... its that bar.. but ffs, there is stuff all room under there, no body lift - and I am trying to make it easy.... That's how I did it.
1 1/2 engine R&Rs in 4 nights after hydraulicking mine.
Both completely standard cars.

[TJS-70Y]

Ive had the gearbox out of mine a few times and I have never removed the floor. I have used the long bar from the rear. Last time I used a ratchet spanner down from the top after using a flexible ratchet and socket to get the bolt loose. It's very tight but much easier than removing the floor.

Thomas

[RaZz0R]

mmm, not the whole floor pan - there is meant to be a section of it.

I have this afternoon & tomorrow morning to figure it out.

[TJS-70Y]

Sorry thats what I meant. Its mainly the tunnel part of the floor pan. My workshop manual said the same thing but I looked at it and went nah that looks like too much work.

Thomas

[RaZz0R]

mmm, well then I'll take a look at it, not having that long of a bar is also a problem (Will have on Saturday tho)

and I have no issues with unbolting stuff as everyone here can see :) Thanks for that tho - started to wonder if there was a section. I'll check it in the service manual as well.

Because at the end of the day it will be easier then trying to get to the top of bellhousing from the bottom :)

[RaZz0R]

well - I got the case of "cbf'ed" aka can't be ****ed :)

but I did get the fuel tank off which is nice.
Didn't find the floor pan section, but then I couldn't be stuffed pulling the centre console off tonight as it was cold & raining & stuff... STUFF! :)

so tomorrow I am buying seals and a few other things plus some extra tools to help make it easier. will be fun!

BTW - Thanks for the good luck Mike ;) I think I'll need it hehe

D-DAY!

[RaZz0R]

not a bad day at all :cool:

Old engine is out - but ran in to a problem where the wrong bolts were undone for the torque converter :/ costed an extra hour, plus one bell housing bolt was well hidden :bat:
But all in all - the bell housing bolts, which I pegged to be the worst - were some of the easiest ones. Torque converter bolts where a bitch. other wise - all was pretty smooth. Taking off the bonnet & getting on top of the engine made it easy to do the top bell housing bolts.
Got rained on a few times which suxed. but at the stage we were at when it rained - a simple push in to the carport kept us dry & so we kept on.

After getting the old engine out & supporting the transmission, we called it a day. Inspected both engines side by side to figure out what needs to be changed, and there is a fair bit - so early start tomorrow - lunch time we start mounting & lining up the new engine - the goal being to line it up with the torque converter & bell housing & bolt it all up with the engine mounts done up as well. From here I can work on the engine over the next week or two getting new hoses or anything else I need to get her going :)

One of my mates beat me to getting a bbq spread - instead rocked up with a huge lamb lol so the webber got fired up, had a few other things rocking as well when we were done. So a awesome roast leg of lamb, some roasted potato's, salad & beer to finish it off.

oh & some piccys :)

http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/change/IMGP0775.jpg
Engine to go in, carbie manifold gone, efi one to go one... however there is a cooling pipe that runs under it - I don't have another as the carbie manifold was taken away.

http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/change/IMGP0776.jpg

http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/change/IMGP0781.jpg
torque converter :cool:

http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/change/IMGP0777.jpg
Working away :angel:

Cheers to all - now for one more beer & bed to start tomorrow :twobeers:

[mike 90 RR]

Razzor ...
Good to see
A lot of parts need changing ... ;)

Tip for you ... When you go to put the coolant back into the engine ... Remember that they are a B##ch to bleed (get all the air out)


1 .... The thermostat ... Drill a 3mm hole in the plate of the thermostat // Install thermo with the "hole to top" ... This helps with bleeding the air out of the engine when filling up with coolant (act's as bypass when thermo shut)

2 ... Remember that the new motor has a lot of crap in it .... Put a stocking (yes the girls legs one) inside (at the hose to radiator clamp connection) the top radiator hose to catch / filter all the particals as it flows through .... clean it after the motor has been warmed

Stockings stretch like crazy .. so only insert about 75mm inside the hose
Clean and replace it everyday of driving for 1 week // or remove when particals are gone

If you don't then the radiator will cop it all (blocked radiator cores)
You can buy a proper filter sock (made in Queensland) to do the job .. I use one ... good for 5000k's // check all the time ... saves on the cost of rodding the radiator, because the radiator cores never block up

This is the "most important part" of the whole process that can make or break the work you have done

3..... FILLING & STARTING the motor
Turn the cabin heater to ON (the water must flow through the cabin heater to bleed the air out)
Take the brass water plug off the radiator
Take the radiator expansion cap off
Fill from the "top brass bleed plug" ONLY (located on top of the left hand side rocker cover) until the water level is full (in radiator & expansion tank)

Put the expansion tank on
Put the radiator plug on
Top up water in "top brass bleed plug"
Put that plug on

Then take off radiator plug & start motor
Watch the coolant level through the radiator plug hole (expansion cap on & "top brass bleed plug"on)
Minor fills through radiator plug hole /// Major fills through the "top brass bleed plug"
It will bubble and gurgle as the air passes through & the water level settles

Start motor and watch the coolant level constantly // STOP the motor if the level b**ches about // top up and then restart // watch constantly

Recheck when motor is cold & check the next day



I run mine on Tap water & add 2 cans of Castrol inhibitor (our water is OK for this .. don't know about your's ..But rain water is OK)

A trick i learnt when changing my coolant was the following


I screw a retic fitting (same thread) to the top brass bleed plug
.. Connect a water hose to Retic fitting
I take radiator plug out // Take expansion tank cap off
....and turn on tap ... and leave it running for 10 minutes till the water changes colour

Add coolant .... All good as no air entered the system and all the coolant in the block that would normally be locked in, has been moved on & out // check levels // drive away (works for me)

Remember ... Air stuck in a motor is not funny ... It will cost you the heads ;)
If any one else can add to this subject ..please do :angel:

Mike

[RaZz0R]

cheers mate.

Will go over that stuff.... when its in :/

Tip for working with mates - stay in charge of what's happening if you have researched the project your self.
We didn't get the engine in today - but if I had stuck to my guns, picked up the service manual, it would be :) lol have to laugh at it now but still.

It will be in tomorrow ;)

[RaZz0R]

mm, bit of an update.

Today I decided to lift the heads on my 89 engine & see what the water jacket looks like. I had in the week punched out a few welsh plugs & it wasn't too bad inside.

Same thing with the heads - water jacket seem ok, as in it hasn't eaten through.

I am going to get the heads shaved, replace another seal or two, get a compression test for ring wear idea & go from there.

Still got this 84 carb engine here :/ it needs to go.

Is the compression test is bad or looks like I'll need to re-ring it - I am not sure if I should go down that path or there is a 89 engine that blew a head gasket, could grab that & shave heads & see how it goes from there.

Apart from that, replaced the torque converter seal as well.

Tomorrow I am going to see about fitting up rear bar & fuel tank as well as some work to my bike lol

[RaZz0R]

Well - I decided!

Just made the call to find out how much a head shave is, re-ring & hone.

For about 700 ~ 800 odd bucks - I am doing it. Heads & block will be dropped off this week. :cool:

Yeah - I am happy.

This week is fitment of bits like fuel tank & rear bar. Clean up of engine bay a little & pull the steering box out as well... tho I am thinking of just getting the engine in & sending it off to the power steering blocks lol I will have done enough by that time :)

[RaZz0R]

mmm, had a set back in that my work contract ended & I made the mistake of not covering my self & believing a TL.

Anyway - bullbar is on, rear bar is on - but needs to come off again lol, figured it will be easier to fit the fuel tank first :)

Going to drop off engine bit tomorrow for the work... other wise its been small clean ups.

[RaZz0R]

Heads are shaved! :) all pretty now. Report was that they are rock solid & dead straight. Good news.

The machined surface has been oiled & each head wrapped up in cling wrap lol (works well tho - cheap version of shrink wrap)

I finally got a engine stand rated to 350kg - for a total of 47 bucks brand new! So the block is up on there, waiting on AMV to get the other head gasket in so they can give me the pair & a set of welsh plugs.

Mean while I will be cleaning up the block as best I can. While the heads have been off crap has gotten in .... well everywhere nearly lol not too bad but I will be cleaning her up for the rest of the week & putting the engine back together this weekend.

One thing I wanted to put out there was this....

I called AMV today asking if they had the gasket in stock for the sump to the block. The answer I got was... "Don't use one" Was explained to me that its best to use a silicon type sealer instead of a gasket as if I do.. the bolts will work lose & it will leak? Went as far as to say they dont use them in their work shop.

Now its got me scratching my head.... how would that work? if I use a gasket it will come lose & leak, if I dont & use a silion sealer of some type... it wont leak?

anyways - here are some piccys for now :) will take some of the heads later on as well.

(taken before I wrapped up everything for the day & did a degrease lol )

http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/change/IMGP0817.jpg

http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/change/IMGP0819.jpg

Heads before they went to the engine work shop :)
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/change/IMGP0820.jpg

Have to say - doing all this work myself has been alot easier then I thought it would be!

[RaZz0R]

cleaned up the sump today which was nice & easy.

looks like sump gasket & goo... lol still haven't decided on which to go with. But will have to decide tomorrow.

also cleaned up the surface of the block for the sump & cleaned up the old gasket left over the top of the cylinders. That engine stand has helped heaps.
Finally took the water pump apart... is fine :) some pitting but nothing major. So new gasket & set goo for that as well, after I flush out the water jackets.

Decided that I would clean up the EFI manifold & rocket covers, then bolt down the heads & sump - new valley gasket, EFI & rocket covers, then blast out the water jackets & pump, fit new welsh plugs & then prep to put back in the rangie.

Which is looking good atm from the outside with the TJM on lol

some piccys as well. :cool:

Still need to clean up the block more, but this is a start ;) you can see the oil pick up here as well & the filter, that is how it was when I pulled the sump, so actually pretty clean.
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/cleanup/sumpblock.jpg

The heads all nicely shaved & cleaned up thanks to Orger Engines
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/cleanup/cleanheads1.jpg

Still have to clean up the valves a little - but other wise all good. Report was they are solid & were straight as well. I remembered when unbolting the heads to crack them even - so I think it helped to stop warping.. :angel:
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/cleanup/cleanheads2.jpg

[RaZz0R]

Cleaned up both rocket covers & got new rubber type gaskets for them.

Got the top section of the EFI manifold soaking in diesel at the moment.

Some piccys to add :o

Love the TJM :) looks good I reckon.
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/rangietjm.jpg

These when last seen were covered in grease/oil & other crap, not to mention taking to the entire set with a wire brush inside & out to clean them up.
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/rockets.jpg

More tomorrow :)

[rovercare]

ROCKER cover, not rocket:p

Use 3bond with a gasket a very light smear;)

[RaZz0R]

lol - thanks for the correction - now I know why I have been getting funny looks asking for a "rocket" cover gasket :)

**I do call it that however in case when it goes back together it goes "booom" and a piston "rockets" through the top :)

[pomonastik]

now I know why I have been getting funny looks asking for a "rocket" cover gasket


"rocket cover gaskets ? how many d'ya want mate?"

[RaZz0R]

hahahah nice!! :) atleast this time round she gets some funky rubber type seals!! bit more of a mosey around then I am getting back out there for more

[walker]

I might be wrong but I thought that you were not meant to soak the top section of the efi manifold. In the area where the butterfly and other stuff are, there are some rubber seals and sensors that will swell up and be destroyed.

[mike 90 RR]

I might be wrong but I thought that you were not meant to soak the top section of the efi manifold. In the area where the butterfly and other stuff are, there are some rubber seals and sensors that will swell up and be destroyed.

I think he is only soaking the intake only

The plentium cover with attached butterfly & sensors have been unbolted / removed from intake .... So I too, am hoping that this is not being soaked

I can see it in a photo laying under the bench on page 10 (third last photo from bottom)

[Lucus]

Coming along nicely RazZor. If you haven't already, don't forget to remove the baffle plates in the rocket(r?) covers and clean all the crud out. You'd be
amazed how much crappola builds up in there after a couple of hundred thousand K's...

[RaZz0R]

I might be wrong but I thought that you were not meant to soak the top section of the efi manifold. In the area where the butterfly and other stuff are, there are some rubber seals and sensors that will swell up and be destroyed.

Yes all is well here :) I looked at the EFI manifold & though "How the hell am I going to clean that up??"

Pick it up & looked closer to see that there was a top section with the trumpets, so I unbolted that & had a look over - the bottom section is actually pretty clean compared to the top - so I soaked the top over night in a small amount of diesel & finished cleaning it up this morning. Its now shrink wrapped with the rocker covers :) The bottom with sensors & injectors I will do be hand & very careful at that on my bench. So yeah - sorry , not the very top section where your air hose connects - probly the "mid" section with trumpets ;)

Lucus - good call :) I saw them when I started cleaning them up & undid the screws & you were right!! I actually thought it was surface rust - but it was all sludge & crap lol!!
I did them yesterday - picked up one this morning & wondered if I even did it! scrubbed them both again while dry & washed them again & dried out - much better second time around! So they are also wrapped up & ready :)

Just finished cleaning up the front of the timing case & around the oil pump - heaps of crud there! will be put under a pressure washer when its all together.

Only thing left is to use a compressor & blow out crap that got built up in the piston area & I got a few soft brushes to clean out cam & crank area of any crud as well. Then its put stuff together time & blast out water jackets & fit welsh plugs :o


Hey Mike! :) I thought about opening up the timing case & taking a look... she was fine before, rock solid & no rattles. At this stage & with no work atm (Next week I got a new one I think ;) ) I am going to take my chances & leave it alone - also with the thought that the more I mess with the more there is to go wrong later HAHHAAH!! It should be all ok.

Small break & then out to clean up rockers & push rods ;) gotta love being over a tub of diesel lol :) pics later :p

[Rangier Rover]

Yes all is well here :) I looked at the EFI manifold & though "How the hell am I going to clean that up??"

Pick it up & looked closer to see that there was a top section with the trumpets, so I unbolted that & had a look over - the bottom section is actually pretty clean compared to the top - so I soaked the top over night in a small amount of diesel & finished cleaning it up this morning. Its now shrink wrapped with the rocker covers :) The bottom with sensors & injectors I will do be hand & very careful at that on my bench. So yeah - sorry , not the very top section where your air hose connects - probly the "mid" section with trumpets ;)

Lucus - good call :) I saw them when I started cleaning them up & undid the screws & you were right!! I actually thought it was surface rust - but it was all sludge & crap lol!!
I did them yesterday - picked up one this morning & wondered if I even did it! scrubbed them both again while dry & washed them again & dried out - much better second time around! So they are also wrapped up & ready :)

Just finished cleaning up the front of the timing case & around the oil pump - heaps of crud there! will be put under a pressure washer when its all together.

Only thing left is to use a compressor & blow out crap that got built up in the piston area & I got a few soft brushes to clean out cam & crank area of any crud as well. Then its put stuff together time & blast out water jackets & fit welsh plugs :o


Hey Mike! :) I thought about opening up the timing case & taking a look... she was fine before, rock solid & no rattles. At this stage & with no work atm (Next week I got a new one I think ;) ) I am going to take my chances & leave it alone - also with the thought that the more I mess with the more there is to go wrong later HAHHAAH!! It should be all ok.

Small break & then out to clean up rockers & push rods ;) gotta love being over a tub of diesel lol :) pics later :p

If I was you I would extend my self to a timing chain, oil pump kit (Have slightly longer gears and mill them selves in:eek:) and new by pass valve spring.
Just from my bad experiece:D
Tony

[RaZz0R]

given my current position - I really can't... can you change said items with out having to take the head off??

also ... whats the by pass valve spring you speak of?

[long stroke]

Lookin good...the bar looks great!!:)

[Rangier Rover]

given my current position - I really can't... can you change said items with out having to take the head off??

also ... whats the by pass valve spring you speak of?

Yep..... The oil pressure relief valve spring. It lives at lower RHS of timing case where the oil filter is. Has a large plug holding it in. The oil pump and this spring can be done with Timing cover on. The cam chain will need it off. Do it now as is a pain to do later. You will need to pull the Sump,dizzy and Crank pully. Get a new seal for TC if you don't have one. (Dizzy has to come out anyway to reprime oil pump when you pack it with petrolium gel and use a cordless drill with a spade down Dizzy hole to spin up the pump till gets hard to turn.)
Tony

[RaZz0R]

mmm, well its seals & parts I dont have atm tbh. goal was to shave heads & slap her back together - just cleaning what I can...and have run out of cash for now.

I'll look at it tomorrow morning.

Water pump was fine in the end - no movement & bearings all ok - little bit of pitting but nothing major
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/rockers/wpump.jpg

Cleaned the timing case today funny enough :/
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/rockers/lmotor.jpg

http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/rockers/rmotor.jpg


This is what the rockers looked like before I cleaned them today...

http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/rockers/drocker1.jpg

http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/rockers/drocker2.jpg


and after I cleaned...
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/rockers/crocker1.jpg

http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/rockers/crocker2.jpg

[RaZz0R]

Lookin good...the bar looks great!!:)

Thanks dude :)

That came from Tassie that one & I have to say I do love how it looks :)

maybe over the weekend I'll throw the stock tank back up just to clear more room - fit the rear bar & roof rack for something to do & to see how it all looks :)

[RaZz0R]

All DONE!!!

http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/heads/IMGP0843.jpg








ok maybe not :) lol still lots to go but couldn't help but sit the rocker covers on to see how its going to look

YAY! The heads are torqued down now :)

Hey Mike!! Thanks for the chat & the hints ;)

So.. heads are down - rocker rails are down with all push rods in of course.

Tomorrow I'll use a set sealant for rocker covers & then its time to blast the water jackets & pump & cleaning up the EFI manifold. Not too far off now.

http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/heads/IMGP0846.jpg

http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/heads/IMGP0844.jpg

http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/heads/IMGP0845.jpg

Oh.... BTW - big CHEAP plastic tubs from um.... Supercheap lol don't like diesel as it eats the plastic... hence the crap all over the floor :/

[mike 90 RR]

Looks good Razzor

Yes Diesel is very deceptive in what it can eat .... I use kerosene ... Be careful when you wash out the water jackets in the block .... as you don't want to push the crud up into the water jackets inside the clean heads ;)

And remember to prelube the cam lobes with the TEFLON grease ... so you don't stuff the hydrolic lifters ... and make sure the lifters are preprimed with engine oil

All good

[RaZz0R]

will do mate :cool: its a funny thing because I was going to use kero - but decided on diesel so it didn't strip all the oil out of the parts ;) but will take extra care with the water jackets because your right - altho I think flow with anti corrosion is still required.

Gotta make sure the valley seal is down tight & the inlet & out ports are fully covered up as well.
Still lots on the list, but its more cleaning up engine bay, fixing some rust, spraying some body deadener, oh & pulling out the steering box, flush & pressure test rad & fig out how to bolt on the long range fuel tank I got.




Also just wanted to thank everyone that has given me info, hints & tips :) has really helped me alot in understanding what I am doing.

I am no mechanic, I am an IT geek by trade!! haha. tho I have had experience with 2 stroke engines I have never come close to doing this type of work on a car. Most I had done to a car before this was to change over wheel bearings, rotors, break pads, change oil & spark plugs.

So really - thank you again to all - esp Mr Mike :)

As I said to some people early on - when you do things like this your self, you love it more when its done - I have already called this engine my baby lol!! haha. :wub: :ehand:

[Rangier Rover]

will do mate :cool: its a funny thing because I was going to use kero - but decided on diesel so it didn't strip all the oil out of the parts ;) but will take extra care with the water jackets because your right - altho I think flow with anti corrosion is still required.

Gotta make sure the valley seal is down tight & the inlet & out ports are fully covered up as well.
Still lots on the list, but its more cleaning up engine bay, fixing some rust, spraying some body deadener, oh & pulling out the steering box, flush & pressure test rad & fig out how to bolt on the long range fuel tank I got.




Also just wanted to thank everyone that has given me info, hints & tips :) has really helped me alot in understanding what I am doing.

I am no mechanic, I am an IT geek by trade!! haha. tho I have had experience with 2 stroke engines I have never come close to doing this type of work on a car. Most I had done to a car before this was to change over wheel bearings, rotors, break pads, change oil & spark plugs.

So really - thank you again to all - esp Mr Mike :)

As I said to some people early on - when you do things like this your self, you love it more when its done - I have already called this engine my baby lol!! haha. :wub: :ehand:

Your gona spend some time shtin your self over the cam chain and oil pump;) Pull the dizzy and prime the oil pump before you start it at least.

[RaZz0R]

hey mate.

Oh I will be doing that atleast - yes I understand about the cam chain & oil pump gears. Just I can replace those with out having to take the heads off so I'll wait & see. As it is, from getting a socket on the front - does not seem to be much if any slack in it. I am thinking it may have been replaced before. But its something I am still going to do. (plus - I really wanted to get those heads on)

This way the heads are on, the engines cleaned out & pretty much sealed up.
Gotta remember - this thing ran fine before hand, started first time everytime & ran very smooth & from moving the crank by hand - seems like it will be fine for now... I do hope I start work next week in which case I'll replace the chain before I drop her in. If its required. still looking in to it ;) If things were different I would have got a heap of new bits ;) have to make do for now & since I have learnt so much - I can upgrade parts or replace them down the track. Got no fear in working on this engine now I understand it.

[RaZz0R]

ok - I thought the cam chain was going to cost alot more then 60 bucks lol I am picking one up on Friday.

I asked about the gears for the oil pump & was advised not to change them.... as in said person has never had to replace them. Given its getting advanced & the oil is seems fine - I might wait on that but do the timing chain this weekend.

Just about to go seal rocker covers, then later on I am going to clean out the bottom section of the efi manifold that has the injectors in it, then put the mid section with trumpets on & wrap up till its time to put it on the valley.

oh joy :)

[RaZz0R]

I was really on the side of "errrr" with the timing chain - mainly because for all I knew it could have been changed over 20,000km ago.

Anyway - got hold of old man & asked about it, came to that its probly still the original chain & thats all I needed to hear. Will be going over the workshop manual tonight to work out what I will need seal wise & how to go about changing the chain over as well. :eek:

[Rangier Rover]

I was really on the side of "errrr" with the timing chain - mainly because for all I knew it could have been changed over 20,000km ago.

Anyway - got hold of old man & asked about it, came to that its probly still the original chain & thats all I needed to hear. Will be going over the workshop manual tonight to work out what I will need seal wise & how to go about changing the chain over as well. :eek:
:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

[RaZz0R]

Yep - got the printed pages.... not really much on it so sounds simple. No adjustment I see as well?

Have the pages to over haul the oil pump as well & now I can see those gears - I'll check them but if they are not stuffed I will leave them, unless they really show signs of wear - also have the papers showing what to look for in wear - I'll grab a new spring as well. Can't be that much..... lol

Cheers guys

[Rangier Rover]

Hey RaZzOR, Got that timing chain done yet?:p

[RaZz0R]

Sure have mate - was done pretty damn easy actually - was a good call - the old chains slack was probly atleast 10mm. Either way it was worth replacing.

Just gotta clean up the timing case cover for the new gasket & the sump as I decided to take that off. Other wise it was actually pretty easy - Dizzy was all marked up before removing of course :) Thanks again, I am glad I did it.

[RaZz0R]

well.... engine is pretty much done for now - the rest will be done once its put back in to the engine bay... which includes:

Fit EFI manifold (Figured it would be easier for lots of reasons to do after)
starter motor
power steering pump
alternator

Still cleaning up efi manifold a little anyway.

I was going to pull the steering box myself... but after looking at the steering arms & what not, with the tools I got... I am going to pay some suxer to do it for me :)

Next steps for me are as follows:

Clean engine bay & degrease steering box
fit standard fuel tank for rego (Got a long range tank that dont really fit - will need body lift & bracket made up for it :/)
fit rear bar
clean the floor pan out & fix a little rust
drop engine back in & start trying to figure out wiring
Fit all new hoses for both fuel & cooling system

Then after all that - pray it starts lol :D

pics!
Engine all together thus far
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/finished/IMGP0847.jpg

Lots cleaner now :)
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/finished/IMGP0848.jpg

New welsh plugs are in :cool: very easy to do.
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/finished/IMGP0849.jpg
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/finished/IMGP0850.jpg
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/finished/IMGP0851.jpg

EFI mating surfaces all clean... still gotta do the rest tomorrow.
http://www.users.on.net/~razz0r/Rangie/motor/finished/IMGP0852.jpg

[RaZz0R]

:eek: :D

What a busy day! I had a few things planned but since I have ADHD I did a few extra things lol.


degrease engine bay
fit standard fuel tank
fit rear bar
clean & prep 2 rust area's
used metal putty to fix small said area's & prepared for paint
cleaned steering box area
used wire brush on headers & mid pipe to strip off rust. worked a treat
coated said pipes in fish oil... joy lol
finally got the old pipe system off - had to cut the ***** off in the end.


Tomorrow is a few other small things....... like get all my bolts together haha. More later on :p

[RaZz0R]

did I mention how much I hate rust :) found alittle more behind the kick panels.

I decided to replace some bolts:

water pump bolts (Dont ask :p)
torque converter to ring gear
crank to spacer
spacer to ring gear

All planned to drop her in this Saturday. Goal is to get it bolted to the torque converter, bell housing & mounted.
Then I can do the rest from there :)

picking up cooling hoses & other bits Friday as well. Once that engine is in I am going all out on her to get it al up & running. So can't wait!!

[Cap]

Looking good so far, best of luck with Saturday ;)

[Rangier Rover]

did I mention how much I hate rust :) found alittle more behind the kick panels.

I decided to replace some bolts:

water pump bolts (Dont ask :p)
torque converter to ring gear
crank to spacer
spacer to ring gear

All planned to drop her in this Saturday. Goal is to get it bolted to the torque converter, bell housing & mounted.
Then I can do the rest from there :)

picking up cooling hoses & other bits Friday as well. Once that engine is in I am going all out on her to get it al up & running. So can't wait!!


Now what does this thingy conect to:eek::p

[RaZz0R]

lol I have to admit I have had to go back to the pictures I took while undoing stuff to work out some of those "thingys"

I think apart from the wiring, the EFI pluming might need some working out :P all in all it shouldn't be too bad tho

[RaZz0R]

well... 4 times I have tried to get this engine in, 4 times all a little different & its still not in. Thus I have given up on it & I am pretty much over it.

Might look in to paying someone to do it & have everything towed there & back, but really... :( with the cost of it, Might just end up at the wreckers.

[dungarover]

If your engine isn't fitting up properly there has to be an issue when you removed it.

Did you undo the torque converter on removal? if not, re-aligning the t/conv is paramount. I heard of a bloke who smashed his in by just doing up the bellhousing bolts til they were tight and damaged it, cost him a small fortune too in replacment :eek:

Also is the spigot bush still on the end of the crank where the plate for the T/conv, bolts onto? This has to be removed before fitting it up (as the engine out of a manual Rangie, then it would be there otherwise disregard this comment).

it's fiddlyu but should fit up easily. You need to line the bellhosing up with the auto at the right point ot it won't fit. Easier than a manual IMO :D

Good luck with it.

Trav

[RaZz0R]

cheers for the words mate.

In short I just can't get the people together on the right day, even when I managed a few we couldn't get it lined up correctly & the ring gear keeps hitting the bell housing as well.

The torque coveter was unbolted before the engine was removed. Following the workshop manual atm.

But yeah, getting it lined up right & then not having the force etc to get it close enough to the bell housing for the locaters & what not. Today was the closest we have got - but with only my house mate, another friend & me it just wasn't going to happen.

Seriously thinking I made a mistake undertaking this & should have junked it when it was suggested.

**Rant:
seriously feel ****ty about this. manage to get the engine together & then its been sitting there for weeks while being told by people I know that they would help, but when it comes to the crush they are no where to be seen. Not to mention 4 friggen trys at it, lucky its not already at the friggen juck yard already! sick of it now & just want it running so I can **** off to the bush - anyone wanna trade a 4wd for a HP bike?
**End rant

[dungarover]

Also check that the dowels that line the engine up are not different as they do change them from time to time. The 3.5's should be the same but nothing surprises me with LR :mad:

Also did you put a bottle jack under the transmission so that it would line up easier? Stupid question but it's the simple things that can trap you esp if you're new to working on LR's (I've done it as well, you learn the hard way). Also don't put the engine mounts in til it's all lined up and the bellhousing bolted up, I found this the easier way to line it all up myself then fit the engine mounts before removing the crane.

HTH. Be persistent and you can do it on your own, I do all the time :D

Trav

[SPROVER]

Where abouts in Melbourne are you? If your not to far maybe we could organise something and i could give you a hand.

[walker]

Razzor, where are you?

I am in Croydon. I have had the motor in and out of my Range 4 times now so I am happy to help you sort it out. I definately found it a bit harder with the auto than the manual box.

I am assuming you have the torqu converter on properly. When I fist put mine in I thought it was in but on reading the manual you there is a critical measurment you have to take and I was way out. I had to muck around with it for an hour to get the torque converter sitting in properly.

Just let us know and I can call around and have a look for you.

[rovercare]

cheers for the words mate.

In short I just can't get the people together on the right day, even when I managed a few we couldn't get it lined up correctly & the ring gear keeps hitting the bell housing as well.

The torque coveter was unbolted before the engine was removed. Following the workshop manual atm.

But yeah, getting it lined up right & then not having the force etc to get it close enough to the bell housing for the locaters & what not. Today was the closest we have got - but with only my house mate, another friend & me it just wasn't going to happen.

Seriously thinking I made a mistake undertaking this & should have junked it when it was suggested.

**Rant:
seriously feel ****ty about this. manage to get the engine together & then its been sitting there for weeks while being told by people I know that they would help, but when it comes to the crush they are no where to be seen. Not to mention 4 friggen trys at it, lucky its not already at the friggen juck yard already! sick of it now & just want it running so I can **** off to the bush - anyone wanna trade a 4wd for a HP bike?
**End rant

Sook:p

Just get some bolts, cut the heads off and screw them in the back of the block, remember to cut slots in them for a flathead screwdriver, to undo them, stick the motor in the hole, line it up with these studs, maybe jack the trans as Aquarangie said to get the angle of the dangle right and put the thing together and stop your crying;)

1 person needed, 2 helps so you're not getting up and down from under the car, no more required

Then off for a manicure for those dear little hands:D

[dungarover]

Razzor, where are you?

I am in Croydon. I have had the motor in and out of my Range 4 times now so I am happy to help you sort it out. I definately found it a bit harder with the auto than the manual box.

I am assuming you have the torqu converter on properly. When I fist put mine in I thought it was in but on reading the manual you there is a critical measurment you have to take and I was way out. I had to muck around with it for an hour to get the torque converter sitting in properly.

Just let us know and I can call around and have a look for you.

Walker, funny you mention the torque conveter. The first time I took an engine out of an auto I didn't undo the bloody thing, took me about the same amount of time to line it all up again. As I said in a previous post, you learn the hard way :mad::mad:

Trav

[Waxenwane]

Sook:p

Just get some bolts, cut the heads off and screw them in the back of the block, remember to cut slots in them for a flathead screwdriver, to undo them, stick the motor in the hole, line it up with these studs, maybe jack the trans as Aquarangie said to get the angle of the dangle right and put the thing together and stop your crying;)

1 person needed, 2 helps so you're not getting up and down from under the car, no more required

Then off for a manicure for those dear little hands:D

Your just nasty aren't you:D:D:D
Where are you Razzor? I've got a workshop in Cheltenham thats full of all sorts of stuff in pulled down condition. You are welcome to come over and compare some stuff in an effort to identify your troubles.

[mike 90 RR]

Where abouts in Melbourne are you? If your not to far maybe we could organise something and i could give you a hand.


Razzor, where are you?

I am in Croydon. I have had the motor in and out of my Range 4 times now so I am happy to help you sort it out.

Just let us know and I can call around and have a look for you.


Razzor .... tell us what you need ;)

[rovercare]

Your just nasty aren't you:D:D:D


Me?:eek:









:D

[RaZz0R]

errrr. ... wow.. didn't expect all the replys...

Had to take a break from it for a few days.
My location is Bayswater, not far down from Stud road... aka this link - http://maps.google.com.au/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=555+Mountain+Hwy,+Bayswater,+VIC+3153&sll=-37.84126,145.266725&sspn=0.069815,0.132523&ie=UTF8&ll=-37.841868,145.251575&spn=0.008727,0.016565&t=h&z=16&iwloc=addr

OK.. transmission is jacked up... the idea being to have the transmission on a fair angel while the back of the motor is angled down as well to help line up.

All locaters are fine as well.....

The actual issue seems to be just lining it up. The top of the bell housing (inside) is pretty gouged up atm from us trying to get the ring gear in enough to mate up the locater's.

Wished I had checked back here sooner.. I knew there were people close by but didn't expect the offers. I was getting ready to get rid of it all... till I reminded myself that I have everything for it, roof racks, roof console, rear bar & tire carrier, the bully.. all the extras I wanted.. but with no engine in its all pretty useless aint it?? :)

But yeah, rovercare, I have been trying with two under the car trying to line up, two on top & two at the front to push it back. tried with 3 people & that was useless.. so hence why I am so lost lol.

[mike 90 RR]

OK.. transmission is jacked up... the idea being to have the transmission on a fair angel while the back of the motor is angled down as well to help line up.

All locaters are fine as well.....

The actual issue seems to be just lining it up. The top of the bell housing (inside) is pretty gouged up atm from us trying to get the ring gear in enough to mate up the locater's.



But yeah, rovercare, I have been trying with two under the car trying to line up, two on top & two at the front to push it back. tried with 3 people & that was useless.. so hence why I am so lost lol.

OK .... Bottom line here Razzor is .... IF it takes 7 folks to push the motor in place then you are doing it wrong

IT has to be set up so 1 person can do it .... the 2cnd person is there just to help and pass the tools

Try the following ...

1 ... Get rid of the 6 people ....

2 .... remove the rubber engine mounts on motor ... this will give you more depth for the motor to meet the bell housing .... when the motor is bolted to the box ... then you can raise it to put the engine mounts in later on

3 ... Use the jack to raise or lower the box to meet the motor .... as "UP as hard as she goes" does not always work

4 ... You have a engine hoist with chains holding the motor .... You must reposition and change the pick up point ... so as to change the balance & angle of the motor to suit the angle of the box

5 ... The hoist & the jack does 99% of the work .... All you do is manipulate it & stick in the bolts

All good :)

Mike

:)

[SPROVER]

Im aboput 10 min away from you.And funnily enough you live about 10 houses down from my cousin who has a Rangie as well.You might have seen it.Its a dark blue one and its usually parked on the front lawn.If you need a hand let us know.We could both give you a hand.

[rovercare]

Sooooooooooooooo, have you actually cut some heads off some bolts and used them to locate it all?

[RaZz0R]

[QUOTE=mike 90 RR;836803]OK .... Bottom line here Razzor is .... IF it takes 7 folks to push the motor in place then you are doing it wrong
yeah that is what I was thinking - mates were all thinking force lol

IT has to be set up so 1 person can do it .... the 2cnd person is there just to help and pass the tools

Try the following ...

1 ... Get rid of the 6 people ....Done :) lol

2 .... remove the rubber engine mounts on motor ... this will give you more depth for the motor to meet the bell housing .... when the motor is bolted to the box ... then you can raise it to put the engine mounts in later on
rubber mounts are not on for this reason :) good call

3 ... Use the jack to raise or lower the box to meet the motor .... as "UP as hard as she goes" does not always work

4 ... You have a engine hoist with chains holding the motor .... You must reposition and change the pick up point ... so as to change the balance & angle of the motor to suit the angle of the box
yeppers

5 ... The hoist & the jack does 99% of the work .... All you do is manipulate it & stick in the bolts thats what I kept telling 6 others lol
All good :)
Mike

Thank you good sir :)

[RaZz0R]

Im aboput 10 min away from you.And funnily enough you live about 10 houses down from my cousin who has a Rangie as well.You might have seen it.Its a dark blue one and its usually parked on the front lawn.If you need a hand let us know.We could both give you a hand.

HI ya!! :)

Yep seen it, stopped & looked at it & have been waiting to catch the owner out side with it to talk to him :) So yes - he is only a few houses down :cool:

If you guys like BBQ & beer all welcome :) that help would be unreal I am sure - then I'll have met two others around the area as well :)

[RaZz0R]

Sooooooooooooooo, have you actually cut some heads off some bolts and used them to locate it all?

Not yet mate :) last time I tried anything was Friday with 2 mates.

Its sitting on 2 old tires still attached to the engine crane at the moment.
As you can see I was pretty lost so its just stayed as I left it all :angel:

my mobile if anyone wants to call is 0431348367

[rovercare]

Not yet mate :) last time I tried anything was Friday with 2 mates.

Its sitting on 2 old tires still attached to the engine crane at the moment.
As you can see I was pretty lost so its just stayed as I left it all :angel:

my mobile if anyone wants to call is 0431348367

Well how can I put this nicely:confused:

FUGGIN DO IT:eek:

It will make your life 10 times easier;)

If I was local I'd drop in, set it up and drink your beer:angel:, but a little to far away I'm afraid:(

[RaZz0R]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/328.jpg

Will do... but for now I don't wanna do anything with out more direction - next time I go to do this I want it to actually go in. :cool:

[rangieman]

If you want ill drive over the 3/4 of a hour on sat and help :cool:
I have a mate in the gully i should catch up with ;)

[rovercare]

If you want ill drive over the 3/4 of a hour on sat and help :cool:
I have a mate in the gully i should catch up with ;)

He wants help to put the motor in Chris, not just drink his beer:D:p

[rangieman]

He wants help to put the motor in Chris, not just drink his beer:D:p
Oops !:eek:
Hey i can do both at the same time;)

[HangOver]

Hi Mate
I understand your woes, it took me several tries (read days!) with and without help to match up my g/box to the motor.

What I ended up doing was leaving the engine mounted to the chassis and using the hoist on the g/box for easier maneuverability.

With mine I could get the housing about 1-2" away from the motor but it would just not go in properly.

It turned out that when I had secured the engine with ratchet straps before I removed the box one must have not been tight as the motor had rocked forward slightly so it was not completely level.

I let the ratchet strap loose a couple of notches and it literally glided home.
This was with no one else "Helping"

So basically its got to be straight n level even if it looks level which mind did try adjusting the angle of the motor slightly

Good luck

[RaZz0R]

Cheers for all the words guys & info.

Trying to contact Walker as its pouring where I am so not the best day to fit the engine...

[rangieman]

Cheers for all the words guys & info.

Trying to contact Walker as its pouring where I am so not the best day to fit the engine...
My offer still stands if you want the help :cool:, But not this weekend as im up the high country:p

[RaZz0R]

Big thanks to Walker. He came, we tried... and didn't kick its ass lol (Watched ghost busters the other night)

Like the other times it was close, but no go.

Using chains - will swap for straps - will try to located rangie in better position as the ground has a small slope - will get it up on axle stands as well.

Rangieman :) always welcome mate ;) but yeah this weekend I am also racing RC off road cars lol I'd take you up on the offer any time.

[rovercare]

Did you try the bolts with the heads cut off?:mad:

[RaZz0R]

No, for the following reasons:

1. haven't bought them, even if I did I am guessing at everything bar the thread as I'll match that.
2. If I did this - how the hell are you ment to get the bolts out with no heads?
3. I don't really understand how to use the bolts in this way.. I get the idea tho.
4. $$$


Plus - I needed someone to come over & take a look at what I am doing to see if I needed anything extra, chains are not helping to get it in, engine crane seems to change the angle of the engine when lowering. Dont have a centre tackle setup....
So.. trying to find another crane, going to see if I can find & buy said straps... etc, etc, etc :(

[Rangier Rover]

No, for the following reasons:

1. haven't bought them, even if I did I am guessing at everything bar the thread as I'll match that.
2. If I did this - how the hell are you ment to get the bolts out with no heads?
3. I don't really understand how to use the bolts in this way.. I get the idea tho.
4. $$$


Plus - I needed someone to come over & take a look at what I am doing to see if I needed anything extra, chains are not helping to get it in, engine crane seems to change the angle of the engine when lowering. Dont have a centre tackle setup....
So.. trying to find another crane, going to see if I can find & buy said straps... etc, etc, etc :(Just get some bolts, cut the heads off and screw them in the back of the block, remember to cut slots in them for a flathead screwdriver, to undo them. Mate use the bolt idea of you will never get the sucker in. Trust me;)
You have other toys:mad: and won't get a few bolts:confused: As Matt said DO IT :mad::mad::mad:

If you want some bolts for locating dowels I should have some already cut off laying around here somewhere. Let me know so I can post them to you.

[mike 90 RR]

No, for the following reasons:

1. haven't bought them, even if I did I am guessing at everything bar the thread as I'll match that.

Take bolt to local bolt store & buy 4 cheap ass bolt's 1inch longer than original

2. If I did this - how the hell are you ment to get the bolts out with no heads?
Cut heads off bolt and THEN cut slot in end so you can get a flat head screwdriver in end .... to unscrew them when fitted .... as Rovercare says

3. I don't really understand how to use the bolts in this way.. I get the idea tho.
When you cut the heads off and stick em in the block for fit & lining up of gearbox / then you will get it .... as Rovercare says

4. $$$
$8


Plus - I needed someone to come over & take a look at what I am doing to see if I needed anything extra, chains are not helping to get it in, engine crane seems to change the angle of the engine when lowering. Dont have a centre tackle setup....

Hardware store has cheap ass chain ($10) .... so cut it to 2 lengths to form crossover from sides of motor ... (crosses at center of motor) ... PUT a shackle ($2) and small chain length there (at where it Xover) for hook of crane to lift .... Now it should lift and dangle like a piece of snot hanging :p

So.. trying to find another crane, going to see if I can find & buy said straps... etc, etc, etc :(

Hope this helps

Can feel a beer & a BBQ coming up :p


:)

[PSI250]

Big thanks to Walker. He came, we tried... and didn't kick its ass lol (Watched ghost busters the other night)

Like the other times it was close, but no go.



when you say it was close? how close are you getting it?
is the angle and everything looking good and lined up but it just wont push together? if the angle is all wrong thats what the bolts with cut off heads are for, just like extra long dowels to line it all up.

set a definate day when your going to give it another shot, put it up here with your number, i'm sure you'll get a few people eager to lend a hand as shown already.

i'd be keen to lend a hand if i'm available.

cheers,
Cal.

[rovercare]

^^^^the info is up above, if you want to know more, give me a bell, not tonight.........to much drinky drinky;)

But tomorrow

Matt 0409 410 655;)

[RaZz0R]

Hey guys..

I have to source another crane before I try again. Current one was loaned & had to be returned.

With the bolts... when you screw them in to the block.. how to you get them started on the bell housing?
Just with flat head via the holes in the bell housing I am guessing and let them pull the engine in??
**EDIT::
House mate just explained to me that the holes in the bell housing are bigger then the thread.. of course & that there is no thread in the bell housing. :) so now it all fits. :)
I knew it would be simple but I have decided I am just out of my league, I also have a damaged left wrist that can't hold much weight which peeves me coz there is only so much I can do in this instance.

Thanks a million for the offers, once I have a crane again I'll let you all know.


when you say it was close? how close are you getting it?
is the angle and everything looking good and lined up but it just wont push together?

Well... when Walker came over we got the ring gear in to the bell housing, but the ring gear just kept hitting the "ribs" on the top & bottom of the bell housing. Wasn't even getting in enough for the ring gear to touch the torque converter. At once stage the closest we got was the locators with in about 1.5inch but the angle of the engine was wrong, needed to rotate either left or right, but any try to adjust it & the ring gear just hits the ribs & forces the engine to move a different way.
Thats about the best way I can describe it. So the ring gear & flex plate has copped a beating with each go due to the ribs in the bell housing.

Thinking on the fly tho - using the bolts should solve that problem as well.
I'll get them tomorrow & I think I can grab an engine crane to suit pretty quick... maybe even have the current one till Monday.

I reckon this will work lol but using these bolts & all... do I use the bell housing bolts to pull the engine in to mate up & will that get the taped plug connection on the torque converter in to the ring gear?

[rovercare]

Best way for me to help you, is give me a bell tomorrow, if I miss your call leave a message and I'll bell you back and I'll talk you through how to do it, I'll be on some crazy azz faults tomorrow at work:eek:

Your doing 2 things wrong, you haven't lined the clutch up correctly and not useing locateing studs, I can;t type enough to explain it clearly:(

[RaZz0R]

Cheers mate - will do... tho clutch? she an auto :) will call tomorrow. Thank you matt.

[rovercare]

Cheers mate - will do... tho clutch? she an auto :) will call tomorrow. Thank you matt.

Sorry:(, haven't reread the thread for sometime:wasntme:

Torque convertor seated properly?

Its only alignment and the studs help HEAPS, I'll talk you through;)

[350RRC]

The other way of doing locating studs is to knock the heads off the bolts with a 4" grinder (wearing chaps, steel toe boots, eye protection, respirator, and with a nurse with senior first aid present) and grinding two flat sides on the bolt shafts so you can put a shifter on them to remove.

If I can bolt up a C9 attached to the back end of an LT 95 to a Chev with this locating method using an engine crane inside a 2 door by myself you surely can mate up a 3.5.

Locating studs will save you time and grief.

cheers, DL

[rovercare]

The other way of doing locating studs is to knock the heads off the bolts with a 4" grinder (wearing chaps, steel toe boots, eye protection, respirator, and with a nurse with senior first aid present) and grinding two flat sides on the bolt shafts so you can put a shifter on them to remove.

If I can bolt up a C9 attached to the back end of an LT 95 to a Chev with this locating method using an engine crane inside a 2 door by myself you surely can mate up a 3.5.

Locating studs will save you time and grief.

cheers, DL

^^^ another way with the 2 flats that will be quite ample:)



But you can ONLY use this method if the nurse is HOT:twisted:

[350RRC]

Now I think about it, I probably have the bolts I used 'filed away for future use' somewhere.

PM if you want me to post them.

[rovercare]

Now I think about it, I probably have the bolts I used 'filed away for future use' somewhere.

PM if you want me to post them.


They'll be to suit Chev, maybe they're both UNC?:confused:

I've got HEAPS, but they get used to often:eek:

[350RRC]

Definitely Rover. I'm using a Hadfield adaptor plate that mated the 350 to an LT 95 originally (when I bought it). Studs screw into the plate. I used spare Rover engine bolts to make my locators. Pretty sure the thread is UNF coarse.

cheers, DL

[rovercare]

Definitely Rover. I'm using a Hadfield adaptor plate that mated the 350 to an LT 95 originally (when I bought it). Studs screw into the plate. I used spare Rover engine bolts to make my locators. Pretty sure the thread is UNF coarse.

cheers, DL


Ritters bellhousing from C4 (C9) to Hadfield plate to chev, quite a mixed bag:D

Could be UNF course, I can;t lodge the threads in my memory unfortunately:(, can only fit so much in my mushy head:)

[350RRC]

Whoops. I am not qualified to say UNF or UNC. It is one or the other. One could say 'what's the UNF / C'n difference'. Point I was trying to make is it is the same thread as a Rover engine block.

cheers, DL

[RaZz0R]

yeah torque converter is seated in correctly on the splines & all - mesured depth as well at 2" from the bell housing face.

hey dont be sorry :) you guys are helping me out massively. plus for all I know there might have been some auto clutch system I had to worry about :) haha chat tomorrow

[Waxenwane]

Definitely Rover. I'm using a Hadfield adaptor plate that mated the 350 to an LT 95 originally (when I bought it). Studs screw into the plate. I used spare Rover engine bolts to make my locators. Pretty sure the thread is UNF coarse.

cheers, DL

UNC.

Razzor I have a crane here that you can borrow. From reading your post's it sounds like you need to get the show up in the air with some ramps or stands. It shouldn't be this hard, i've done engine changes in a driveway by myself with less grief. couple of questions though, how have you got the engine slung? Are you using a lifting beam or sling? You will need something that allows you to change the motors attitude (position as well :D) on the fly. You may need to use a trolley jack under the transmission to give it some nose up, just be prepared to loosen the mounts.
The crane can be picked up Thursday arvo if that helps you. 0415850907

[350RRC]

Hi Razzor,

Where does the ' 2" ' come from? Surely should be metric. Also are you sure that the TC has properly engaged with the pump?

I just remember that I had probs similar to yours (30 secs) until I realized that the pump was not properly engaged with the TC. C9 may be different.

DL

[350RRC]

Thanks Waxen,

I get too busy. At least I got the 'coarse' bit and Rover bit right.

cheers, DL

[Waxenwane]

Razzor, I would just like to add that just because it came out a particular way does not necessarily mean it's going to go back in the same way. You may have to drop the crossmember and mounts to get more room.

[RaZz0R]

UNC.

Razzor I have a crane here that you can borrow. From reading your post's it sounds like you need to get the show up in the air with some ramps or stands. It shouldn't be this hard, i've done engine changes in a driveway by myself with less grief. couple of questions though, how have you got the engine slung? Are you using a lifting beam or sling? You will need something that allows you to change the motors attitude (position as well :D) on the fly. You may need to use a trolley jack under the transmission to give it some nose up, just be prepared to loosen the mounts.
The crane can be picked up Thursday arvo if that helps you. 0415850907

Hey wow - thank you for the offer, got the borrowed one I think for the weekend or house mates work can lend one. :) thanks a million tho mate & will keep it in mind.
As for how I am lifting... I'll go with the beam using a hook with chain. going for a bit better setup tho.



Where does the ' 2" ' come from? Surely should be metric. Also are you sure that the TC has properly engaged with the pump?

The measurement is from the workshop manual - after fitting the converter & making sure the pump is engaged, from the handles/lugs on the torque converter there is a measurement of 50mm (2") from them tothe face of the bell housing. This one I know is good - had a friend fit it for me to make sure whom was a mech for 20 years mainly for auto transmissions :) got lucky there so I know thats all good.

[RaZz0R]

Razzor, I would just like to add that just because it came out a particular way does not necessarily mean it's going to go back in the same way. You may have to drop the crossmember and mounts to get more room.

See the cat in your avvy pic?

Thats my face when I read that :eek: hahahaha :cool:

[mike 90 RR]

Did you try the bolts with the heads cut off?:mad:


Just get some bolts, cut the heads off and screw them in the back of the block, remember to cut slots in them for a flathead screwdriver, to undo them. Mate use the bolt idea of you will never get the sucker in. Trust me;)


The other way of doing locating studs is to knock the heads off the bolts with a 4" grinder (wearing chaps, steel toe boots, eye protection, respirator, and with a nurse with senior first aid present) and grinding two flat sides on the bolt shafts so you can put a shifter on them to remove.
Locating studs will save you time and grief.
cheers, DL

Any chance of a photo of bolts .... for Razzor to see?? ;)

Also make sure that the ends (top) of the "Cut bolts" are "rounded off" ... so that it doesn't "Cut" the bellhousing holes ... when trying to locate & fit

Mike

[RaZz0R]

nah it will be ok - I might be a computer geek but my house mate is a tool maker :)

[mike 90 RR]

nah it will be ok - but my house mate is a tool maker :)

Well given that little piece of info ;) .... He might make one up complete with a reduced hex at the end for easy socket set removal :)


Naaaaa .... now thats getting complicated :p

Mike

:)

[Rangier Rover]

Well given that little piece of info ;) .... He might make one up complete with a reduced hex at the end for easy socket set removal :)


Naaaaa .... now thats getting complicated :p

Mike

:) I'll order a set of these if he does;)

[Rangier Rover]

Any chance of a photo of bolts .... for Razzor to see?? ;)

Also make sure that the ends (top) of the "Cut bolts" are "rounded off" ... so that it doesn't "Cut" the bellhousing holes ... when trying to locate & fit

Mike
I'll have a look for mine today. Not much to look at. Just old oily bolts with no head and a slot with hack saw:(
Tony

[RaZz0R]

yeah I know dude :) its cool.

Hey I am sure my house mate could knock up something like that pretty easy. Full CNC work shop plus a TGX griding house :D If only I could get his boss to agree to making me bling parts lol

[mike 90 RR]

my house mate could knock up something like that pretty easy. Full CNC work shop plus a TGX grinding house :D

:eek2:

NOW you tells us :p

[Waxenwane]

How are you going there Razzor?
Engine in and out playing I hope:cool: if the engines not in the emoticon is:eek:

[rovercare]

How are you going there Razzor?
Engine in and out playing I hope:cool: if the engines not in the emoticon is:eek:

I can't decide if its:mad:or:(

I got no call, so highly likely not to have tried locateing studs, so thumb in the anal passage and its a pain to put in:p

[Rangier Rover]

Oi.... You got that engine in yet?:p

[RaZz0R]

I can't decide if its:mad:or:(

I got no call, so highly likely not to have tried locateing studs, so thumb in the anal passage and its a pain to put in:p

Hey guys...

No its not in, haven't tried yet, hence why I haven't called you :) don't wanna drag anyone over unless I know I have everything ready. Will be another week till I have all bolts for locating, jack oil & a few other things I found I need. Should be getting a final word on starting work next week as well which will help.

Main thing has been no cashie cashie atm. :/ so as long as your all still willing in a week or so :)

[RaZz0R]

Hi All,

As you can all see I didn't post & haven't been here for a while now.

Its just not happening - as such everything I have for the rangie is now up for sale. Will be posting a long for sale thread shortly.

quick list:

rebuilt 3.5 v8
4 alt's
bull bar
rear step bar with swing away rear wheel carrier & spot light
long range fuel tank
dvd/divx player for up front
got some smick speaks to suit the front 4" jobs
all the tires on the things have never been used!! Maxxis mudders - so they can all go - they are all on the car atm on the stock rims.

The shell is very straight, still has the tranny & everything in it - just no engine or anything else around it.

So if anyone wants anything pm, email or call on 0431348367

[Rayngie]

just read through this thread for the first time..you sure you want to stop?, seem to have put a hell of a lot of work into it..


Ray,

[RaZz0R]

almost got rid of it all - but didn't lol

Since trying 7... count it... SEVEN times to get the motor back in I just left it all & didn't know what to do.

Went out to Jamieson national park on last week for NYE camping with mates - haven't done even camping in ages. I "borrowed" my old mans newish bravo 4x4 - what a POS. So its re-newed me somewhat to get this going.

I still have everything for her all wrapped up.

I re-book marked this site again so I'll be here often.

At this stage I am thinking of getting eveything towed up to a dealer\workshop & getting them to install the motor for me, long range fuel tank, lift her up both body & spring & ensure the trans & eveything will be sweet...

Only thing with that is it may really cost - wouldn't mind throwing 5g at it if I knew 100% it was going to be awesome :) but I doubt I could change from the 10 spline to a 24 spline for axels with a lift & everything for 5g lol

anyway... east melbourne - AMV in Ringwood quoted 1000 to get the motor in & running... plus parts. Seems like a good deal.

Thoughts? Suggestions?
I want my 4x4 going!!! :D

Cheers all :)

BTW: To all those that offered help - it really blew me away - but after having so many goes at it & even having one or two members come over & not getting anywhere.. .I just didn't want to bother you guys - however - if someone reckons they got the know how to help out :) let me know!! :)

Cheers & thanks,

Chris

[RaZz0R]

Also thought of getting another rangie and just wrecking this one? But my worry with that is that if I get another it might be just as bad as what I have to start with lol atleast this way I know what I got..... or should I re-think that idea?

[rovercare]

STUDS, LOCATING STUDS, for **** sake:(

[RaZz0R]

STUDS, LOCATING STUDS, for **** sake:(

yeah I am sure - would love to ;)

going to have to source another engine lifter.. however will studs solve getting the ring gear to the torque converter?

Still think I have to bite the bullet & pay a shop to finish it up now.
Plus.... I think I might have ****ed up & got the heads on wrong... :wasntme::cool:

[RaZz0R]

I can't decide if its:mad:or:(

I got no call, so highly likely not to have tried locateing studs, so thumb in the anal passage and its a pain to put in:p

:eek:

To be honest I was never sure what you were offereing to do :o :cool:
Please dont think the offer was over looked mate - just lost now & back then I wasn't so sure about going through with it - which is clear from my posts & taking a hugh break from it all.

Getting bolts the right size, hacking them off in an effort to get it all done - well to try it for the 8th just gets me thinking another 8 hours wasted :(.

I have to buy an engine crane... supercheap or else where????

[350RRC]

I'll still have the ones I used to get a C9 mated to the adaptor plate on the back of a Chev somewhere. It'll be the same thread as your block coz I know they came from a Rover. PM me your address and I'll put them in the post for you for encouragement.

They're nothing special, just a chop and a couple of flats done with a grinder.

cheers, DL

[rovercare]

:eek:

To be honest I was never sure what you were offereing to do :o :cool:
Please dont think the offer was over looked mate - just lost now & back then I wasn't so sure about going through with it - which is clear from my posts & taking a hugh break from it all.

Getting bolts the right size, hacking them off in an effort to get it all done - well to try it for the 8th just gets me thinking another 8 hours wasted :(.

I have to buy an engine crane... supercheap or else where????

Buy crane from supercheap

Just to re re re re re- itterate, you need the 2 bolts, you've got that yea? check? comprenda?

You need to fit them in where the bellhousing bolts go, somewhere around 3 and 9 0'clock,

You need to make sure the torque convertor is seated correctly

You need to make sure the 2 dowels are in their correct places, otherwise it ain;t pretty, you've seen these dowel? little hollow sleeve things?

Then load the motor in, line the headless bolts in with the corresponding holes and push on the motor, it gets a little tricky here at times, but that can be overcome

What you need to observe is the mating faces of the block are coming together relatively even, as in same gap top and bottom etc, this can be altered by....Jacking the transmission up/down, man handling the engine, or with a nice little jigger you can buy, that alters the angle of the engine

Then push, wiggle, swear, scream until it fits together, it should, with a little effort, hold the two faces together and you should then be able to get some bolts in......remember how much fun they were to remove?:D

Make sense?

Once you've achieved that, the torque convertor should slide up home, via the little inspection cover underneath the bellhousing, finger or screwdriver here wille suffice, then rotate it to line up the flex plate bolts, fit these via turning the motor over from the front of the crank for access

[Waxenwane]

Why don't you organise a few of us for a nice lunch one weekend.:D I was going to suggest you trailer it around here, but my van is now going headless:mad:

[rovercare]

Why don't you organise a few of us for a nice lunch one weekend.:D I was going to suggest you trailer it around here, but my van is now going headless:mad:

I'm well and truely out this month, although if he was on the west side towards Geelong, I'd happily skip over after work one night

[Waxenwane]

I'm well and truely out this month, although if he was on the west side towards Geelong, I'd happily skip over after work one night

Where the hell are you working? You still live in the Valley?

[rovercare]

Where the hell are you working? You still live in the Valley?

Working at Waurn Ponds, still live in the Valley, have no home really:D

Chasing $$$:(

[Jewells]

Chasing $$$:([/QUOTE]

Ya gotta when you contract Roveritis.....tomorrow I start picking up my next project '24 dodge tourer (Ute load at a time):eek: hoping to distract myself away from the Rangie wallet curse for a lil' while.
:p

[rovercare]

Ya gotta when you contract Roveritis.....tomorrow I start picking up my next project '24 dodge tourer (Ute load at a time):eek: hoping to distract myself away from the Rangie wallet curse for a lil' while.
:p

My Roveritis is funded via others roveritis:twisted:

Although, you got yours at cost, being Vern's mate and all:D

[RaZz0R]

I'll still have the ones I used to get a C9 mated to the adaptor plate on the back of a Chev somewhere. It'll be the same thread as your block coz I know they came from a Rover. PM me your address and I'll put them in the post for you for encouragement.

They're nothing special, just a chop and a couple of flats done with a grinder.

cheers, DL

mate thank you very much!!

got my house mate & another mate pushing it now as well :) will PM you in a few mins :D Thank you once again!!

[Jewells]

Thank god for the Roveritis support network that is this forum (or rather you, via Vern and all those first time virus contractors dim wittedness clearly documented to alarm unsuspecting newcomers so as to avoid making the same mistakes as they have, or asking the dumb questions that we need the answers too:eek:)

At times, like perhaps Boxing day while stuck somewhere between Carlsrue and Lancefeild with the side of my 700 open to the universe and 6 litres of tranny fluid sprayed over every inch of my underside, fully loaded up, trailer on, Wife, kids and dog in tow, I stop to ponder ... Should I thank Vern for passing on this bloody disease or hit him on the head with a shovel ?......

Ofcourse it aint all bad...:angel:

Cheers mate enjoy the western district and all it has to offer...;)

[RaZz0R]

Buy crane from supercheap

OK - Will get that wednesday next week.




Just to re re re re re- itterate, you need the 2 bolts, you've got that yea? check? comprenda?

Yep

You need to fit them in where the bellhousing bolts go, somewhere around 3 and 9 0'clock,
Yeah - we tried that with the bell housing bolts to help locate it all the past 7 times :) dont get me wrong I printed your instructions each time we did it :)

You need to make sure the torque convertor is seated correctly
Yep - that is all in :)

You need to make sure the 2 dowels are in their correct places, otherwise it ain;t pretty, you've seen these dowel? little hollow sleeve things?
Yep - locating lugs

Then load the motor in, line the headless bolts in with the corresponding holes and push on the motor, it gets a little tricky here at times, but that can be overcome
What you need to observe is the mating faces of the block are coming together relatively even, as in same gap top and bottom etc, this can be altered by....Jacking the transmission up/down, man handling the engine, or with a nice little jigger you can buy, that alters the angle of the engine

Then push, wiggle, swear, scream until it fits together, it should, with a little effort, hold the two faces together and you should then be able to get some bolts in......remember how much fun they were to remove?:D
Make sense?
Yep- its what we have done each time :( actually removing those bolts wasn't so bad at all :) torque wench & breaker bar.

[quote]
Once you've achieved that, the torque convertor should slide up home, via the little inspection cover underneath the bellhousing, finger or screwdriver here wille suffice, then rotate it to line up the flex plate bolts, fit these via turning the motor over from the front of the crank for access

Yep I wish I was at that point about 7 months ago lol :)

[RaZz0R]

Why don't you organise a few of us for a nice lunch one weekend.:D I was going to suggest you trailer it around here, but my van is now going headless:mad:

Lunch - BBQ - Beer & bottles of rum are all here!!! :D :cool:

Was all on offer last time as well - just concerned about having all the right gear here :)

so if anyone is willing :D

[rovercare]

You need to fit them in where the bellhousing bolts go, somewhere around 3 and 9 0'clock,
Yeah - we tried that with the bell housing bolts to help locate it all the past 7 times :) dont get me wrong I printed your instructions each time we did it :)


This is where you need the headless bolts/locators , you don't want to be pulling the block towards the box with the bolts

I got a rover 4.6 sitting on the shed floor, if you don't get there, I'll try find time this weekend when I'm back, to insert some and take a pic to make it clear

[Jewells]

[QUOTE=RaZz0R;1151245]OK - Will get that wednesday next week.


i hope you weren't trying to drop it in by hand? :o

[rovercare]

Thank god for the Roveritis support network that is this forum (or rather you, via Vern and all those first time virus contractors dim wittedness clearly documented to alarm unsuspecting newcomers so as to avoid making the same mistakes as they have, or asking the dumb questions that we need the answers too:eek:)

At times, like perhaps Boxing day while stuck somewhere between Carlsrue and Lancefeild with the side of my 700 open to the universe and 6 litres of tranny fluid sprayed over every inch of my underside, fully loaded up, trailer on, Wife, kids and dog in tow, I stop to ponder ... Should I thank Vern for passing on this bloody disease or hit him on the head with a shovel ?......

Ofcourse it aint all bad...:angel:

Cheers mate enjoy the western district and all it has to offer...;)

All makes for a good story, what fun would it be if you had a trouble free trip?:D

He told me about that one:)

[RaZz0R]

[QUOTE=RaZz0R;1151245]OK - Will get that wednesday next week.


i hope you weren't trying to drop it in by hand? :o

lol nooooo.

Had one at the time but it was on loan. :D

Rovercare - yeah I understand it all... guess if I am going to try it myself one last time I want it in or I will just be disappointed again lol :D a grand to get her in & running was sounding like a good deal to me lol.

[rovercare]

a grand to get her in & running was sounding like a good deal to me lol.

I think in your case it sounds the best option, I mean, your going to spend quarter that on a crane

[RaZz0R]

good point really... altho we both know it will blow out for bolts & things that may be required. think I'll bite the bullet & just get her done for me.

Any ideas where I should go for a spring & body lift?? Need them for the boots I got on her still & the long range fuel tank - been told I need a body lift to fit her.

[350RRC]

Found those studs this morning. They're in the post, good luck with it and keep us posted.

cheers, DL

[RaZz0R]

Well....

350RRC :) thank you very much for the locating bolts... however I am going to send them back in hope they can help someone else.

Today I was presented with an offer to pick up a 91 rangie, fully setup to where I want mine with maxi axles, diff's from the a disco, duel batt's, duel fuel, lifted, with winch, cb & heaps of other bits I want... PLUS she's got a 4.6lt in her!!! :cool:... for 8k... might get it for 7 tho lol.

Either way it became clear that for what I want my rangie to be - it will cost me waaaaaay too much.

I am putting a deposit down on this 91 rangie :) only thing I am going to pull from mine is the ARB rear step with wheel carrier & light.

The rest must go!! :)

In a way I felt bad for making the choice as the path I have taken with this project has really shown how great all you guys are & perhaps will provide info for others looking to do such a project.

I am guessing that putting her in the wrecking section with all the bits might be best as its not together :) the chassis straight & the roof liner is perfect! the motor even tho it is a 3.5 was rebuilt :)

So I'll list it all & take pics & post her up in the next day or two :) the TJM bully wont be needed either :) of course since everyone helpped me here get all this gear including a roof console all the prices will be cheap - ie I wont make anything from them :) only what I paid.

so cheers & thanks! :) this way I can be ready to go on my first 4WD weekender trip in about 4 weeks! :) w000000000hooooooo!!!

BTW: I got a 2001 Hayabusa up for sale on bikepoint & bikesales :) 2001 Red/Silver Busa for sale (http://www.australian-hayabusa-club.com/MyBB/showthread.php'tid=10727)

[McDisco]

Nice! Sounds like a good buy! Has it had the viscous T/c swapped out?

Angus

[RaZz0R]

I think so... it was\is Greg's from AMV in Ringwood ;)

Either way anything goes wrong he will help me out hehe. He set it up very well. I am going to be checking it out again tomorrow & dropping him some cash so I'll ask :)

[McDisco]

Cool! Post some pics when you get your hands on it!

Angus

[dungarover]

Sounds like a good buy, good vintage too.

I bought my 89 Rangie Vogue off Outers for $3K with LPG just before Christmas with a rear maxi-drive as well. Good buys come up all the time, you just have to be in the right place at the right time :D

Good luck with it.

Trav

[RaZz0R]

Nice! Sounds like a good buy! Has it had the viscous T/c swapped out?

Angus

Hey :)

Should have it in the next week or so :) I can't WAIT!!!

The answer is - YES - it has had that T\C changed out for a dico one - need to confirm coz its late lol but I think he said it was changed to the lt325? He also fitted it up so it has an electric centre diff lock - push button & shes locked up! Also mentioned the front drive shaft was changed so there was no vibrations.

Honestly I think the only thing it will need is rock sliders with some steps lol (Yes I am soft) and a snorkel - change over the rear step to my with the wheel carrier & light.. throw on the roof racks & wooohoooo - I am going camping! :)

[RaZz0R]

Well... Wednesday morning I pick up my new-to-me rangie!!

I am no longer a full time motorcycle rider for the first time in years... which is hurting a bit but mcome Wednesday I will have a new beast!! Can't wait to come home with this thing lol

[RaZz0R]

Well... Wednesday morning I pick up my new-to-me rangie!!

I am no longer a full time motorcycle rider for the first time in years... which is hurting a bit but mcome Wednesday I will have a new beast!! Can't wait to come home with this thing lol