View Full Version : which one?
29dinosaur
27th April 2008, 09:10 PM
I sold my 300tdo prematurely and have withdrawal symptoms... will be doing low kms and only minor 4wding... each day I drive about 5kms to work and then use vehicle minimally. Occasional longer trip. Was thinking a series 2 v8 but what about low km series I?? Auto or manual? Was thinking the model with CDL (year please??) (td5 scare me a bit with the stories that are told and I don;t really get the motor huming along for many kms each day so probably not good for motor??) Like p38 I always seem to pick lemons so am a little apprehensive about what to get..??
simonl8353
28th April 2008, 08:23 AM
With only a few daily km's and having other vehicles on the driveway for touring, I'd look at a V8 D1. Say a '94/'95 for around $6k-$7k. Not too cheap to be giving you too many hassles. ;)
good luck
feral
28th April 2008, 09:16 AM
Go the V8 D2.
There is a big difference in what you will get between a '95 model and a 2000 model.
All for an extra $6000.
I saw a 2000 D2 in the local, said to be in good condition for $13,000 Drive Away.
Reduces grown men to tears:BigCry:
Desert Traveller
28th April 2008, 07:56 PM
With the rest, a D2 V8 Auto would be a great toy at current prices. The only costly points are rego and maybe insurance. That is saying something for someone who has only ever had oil burners.
simonl8353
28th April 2008, 08:20 PM
With the rest, a D2 V8 Auto would be a great toy at current prices. The only costly points are rego and maybe insurance. That is saying something for someone who has only ever had oil burners.
Wot d'ya mean with the rest!!!! I voted V8 D1.
I suppose it all depends on your budget 29Dinosaur?? Agree the D2 is a much more car (and some say problems) for your cash, so it really depends on your budget. If you have $12k to spend go the D2, for $7k go the D1.
29dinosaur
29th April 2008, 05:04 PM
Wot d'ya mean with the rest!!!! I voted V8 D1.
I suppose it all depends on your budget 29Dinosaur?? Agree the D2 is a much more car (and some say problems) for your cash, so it really depends on your budget. If you have $12k to spend go the D2, for $7k go the D1.
Thanks - I have an option on a 2000 D2 V8 auto 130k kms - just been serviced by reputable LR mechanic who apparently has done the bottom end bearings. What should I look out for?? What specifically needs modification or not? (I haven't seen it yet - at what month in 2000 did they lose the CDL?)
100I
29th April 2008, 06:48 PM
...I'm wondering why a Rover V8 needs bottom end bearings at 130k...
Other than that, buy a V8 for sure with that amount of usage in mind.
Better still buy mine:D
simonl8353
29th April 2008, 07:34 PM
........ What should I look out for?? .......
Investing in anything with the word "Opes" in it, red sky in the morning, anyone saying "trust me" or "honestly" and people on here with opinions :p:p:p:p;):D:)
ok, but seriously.
Rocker cover gasket leaks, transmission vibration, low coolant/oil levels. Check for a spare key and that both keys work, 'cos they're $350 ea to replace (got caught on that one :mad:).
Not sure what month the CDL guts were removed, you're on track with 2000 but you can alway do a physical check to see that the spigot is there.
Good luck, hope it works out.
29dinosaur
4th May 2008, 09:00 PM
Saw another D2 2000 V8 with 140kkms advertised for about $10K... How far wrong can one go? It's interstate.... worth taking pot luck?? Has only been used as urban vehicle.
simonl8353
6th May 2008, 03:30 PM
Sounds a good price.
They've all only been used for highway driving. :angel:
But if it has a lift kit, muddies, snorkel, dual battery, lockers, bars and winch, I'd question if its only use was urban school runs :p
Good luck
loanrangie
6th May 2008, 03:47 PM
Sounds a good price.
They've all only been used for highway driving. :angel:
But if it has a lift kit, muddies, snorkel, dual battery, lockers, bars and winch, I'd question if its only use was urban school runs :p
Good luck
Safeways has some extreme offroading in the carpark :D.
RonMcGr
6th May 2008, 04:39 PM
I sold my 300tdo prematurely and have withdrawal symptoms... will be doing low kms and only minor 4wding... each day I drive about 5kms to work and then use vehicle minimally. Occasional longer trip. Was thinking a series 2 v8 but what about low km series I?? Auto or manual? Was thinking the model with CDL (year please??) (td5 scare me a bit with the stories that are told and I don;t really get the motor huming along for many kms each day so probably not good for motor??) Like p38 I always seem to pick lemons so am a little apprehensive about what to get..??
Late model D1 V8.
After that, $,$$$,$$$ and trouble.
Too many "electrical gimmicks" which means too many things to go wrong.
96 to 98 D1, a bullet proof, simple mechanical vehicle, able to be fixed by "a Numpty, anywhere, anytime" :D
Cheers,
Ron
*****************************
Disclaimer:
A. No offence intended to the nickname "Numpty" and his mechanical knowledge.
B. The opinions of this poster are not those of his wife and immediate family..
cookiesa
14th May 2008, 12:11 PM
Sounds a good price.
They've all only been used for highway driving. :angel:
But if it has a lift kit, muddies, snorkel, dual battery, lockers, bars and winch, I'd question if its only use was urban school runs :p
Good luck
Can tell you don't drive on Adeliade roads! Took the missus car out the other day (Hyundai Excel) and suddenly found myself avoiding "personholes" and repairs to the roads, and I had just put all that thumping and bumping down to worn suspension on the Disco! (Damn now she knows there goes the suspension "upgrade")
4X4V8
14th May 2008, 12:56 PM
Late model D1 V8.
After that, $,$$$,$$$ and trouble.
Too many "electrical gimmicks" which means too many things to go wrong.
96 to 98 D1, a bullet proof, simple mechanical vehicle, able to be fixed by "a Numpty, anywhere, anytime" True, I agree but I gave up looking for a tidy D1 - so many are really tired unless they are really well looked after, and I became interested in D2s when their prices dropped to low teens - which is what I was willing to pay for a good D1 2 years ago.
I am on my second D2 V8 and unlike with a D1 I do get the random 3 Amigos and will have to put the CDL lever in to get good off-road ability, but I also get a much fresher (newer) car, no Alpine window rust and a bigger load area. All for $12.5k. Just saw a red 2000 D2 V8 manual on Pickles that was a buy it now deal for $10,800 (but I think it went back to auction today) and on Ebay there's even an immac looking D2a V8 auto that is getting bids in the low teens, after a buy it now of $19k attracted no interest. A 2003 model! Wait till petrol's $2 a litre, and see how cheap they are then...
AussieLandRover
14th May 2008, 12:59 PM
True, I agree but I gave up looking for a tidy D1 - so many are really tired unless they are really well looked after, and I became interested in D2s when their prices dropped to low teens - which is what I was willing to pay for a good D1 2 years ago.
I am on my second D2 V8 and unlike with a D1 I do get the random 3 Amigos and will have to put the CDL lever in to get good off-road ability, but I also get a much fresher (newer) car, no Alpine window rust and a bigger load area. All for $12.5k. Just saw a red 2000 D2 V8 manual on Pickles that was a buy it now deal for $10,800 (but I think it went back to auction today) and on Ebay there's even an immac looking D2a V8 auto that is getting bids in the low teens, after a buy it now of $19k attracted no interest. A 2003 model! Wait till petrol's $2 a litre, and see how cheap they are then...
I don't know there are tidy D1 out there like the one I brought with only some very minor repair's just need to know what to look out for. :D
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