Ideas for a "2A" box trailer pls

[Brisso57]

Hi,

I'm about to embark on restoring a S2A, but prior to that I'm thinking I'll buy a box trailer to fetch and carry parts, etc.

I then started thinking it'd be good to buy one with fitted with S2A steel rims and tyres, and have it painted the same colours as I eventually want the 2A: LR "Olive Green" and "Limestone".

What I have in mind is a pretty basic box trailer , not intended for hairy-chested off-road use.

What suggestions can anyone contribute, with regard to features, etc.?

Does anyone have any pictures of a similar rig?

Thanks

Doug

... and PS ...
Perhaps you could PM me if you live in Brisbane, and have had a good experience with have a similar trailer custom built. I'd be interested to hear your recommendation.

[gumby190]

Shame you are in Bris Vegas, I have one in my yard that is made out of the back of a Series 2 ute, looks cool, thinking of getting rid of it to finance the rebuild of Daisy. Might try & post some pics later.

[Brisso57]

Shame you are in Bris Vegas, I have one in my yard that is made out of the back of a Series 2 ute, looks cool, thinking of getting rid of it to finance the rebuild of Daisy. Might try & post some pics later.

Thanks. I'm sure everyone would be interested to see the pics.

cheers

Doug

[gumby190]

This is it..

[JDNSW]

I have similar ideas - and have got as far as acquiring a lwb tub to start from. My intention is to make it sufficiently light to be unbraked. The chassis will be made from scratch using rhs steel. Undecided whether to use new trailer springs or front Series springs minus a couple of leaves.

The main feature I plan is to use the rear end of another tub to make it double ended with a tailgate both ends - very useful for carrying long loads.

Wheels will certainly be Landrover, probably swb for lightness, and at the moment I am thinking of a tubular axle with a Series stub axle bolted on each end, although I have seen suggestions that solid one piece axles are mandated, so this may need modification.

John

[Brisso57]

<Snip>
The main feature I plan is to use the rear end of another tub to make it double ended with a tailgate both ends - very useful for carrying long loads.
<Snip>
John

Now THAT will be something to see!

Keep us posted.

cheers

Doug

[Brisso57]

There's also this:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260234070475&_trksid=p3907.m32&_trkparms=tab%3DWatching#ebayphotohosting

cheers

Doug

[mcrover]

Im going to be getting rid of the half series 2 chassis under my S2 tub for my trailer shortly so if anyone wants a rolling trailer chassis which is as heavy as a S2 to start with then it will be going cheap.

Im building a camping trailer to fit the RTT onto for longer stays than just over night and be able to take some gear with us due to the limited amount you can fit in a Disco.

It is getting an RHS chassis built on a backbone setup with A frame supports on the drawbar so it will be much like an army trailer.

It will be a bit heavier than most but it wont break.

Im also using XF Panelvan springs on a 75x75x6mm RHS axel with flanges welded on the ends to bolt Disco hubs etc onto the ends so spares are the same as the tow vehical and will run Disco hubs and maybe Hydraulic over ride disc brakes or may be country or series drums which would be more efficient.

I pretty much have all the bits (other than the brakes) all I need now is the time :D

[numpty]

Hey Doug. I have a LWB tub which I need to be rid of if you're interested.

I also have a SWB tub on a shortened No 5 chassis, which I intend putting a hard top on.That's not for sale though.

[Richard O]

Hi Numpty,

Does the tub fit on No 5 Trailer?

Cheers

Richard

[numpty]

The tub fits quite well, although there were some modifications done, which could have been neater. It is my intention to rebuild it a little better.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

... at the moment I am thinking of a tubular axle with a Series stub axle bolted on each end, although I have seen suggestions that solid one piece axles are mandated, so this may need modification.

John
John you hear that quite a bit, however I have not found it in any of the publications from the RTA or DOTARS (Like VSB 01 Building Small Trailers (http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/safety/bulletin/vsb1/index.aspx) ).

If someone were to suggest that only solid axles are permissible, then ask them about "Duratorque" suspensions which only have stub axles or the axles on semi-trailers which are welded square section.

Diana

[JDNSW]

John you hear that quite a bit, however I have not found it in any of the publications from the RTA or DOTARS (Like VSB 01 Building Small Trailers (http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/safety/bulletin/vsb1/index.aspx) ).

If someone were to suggest that only solid axles are permissible, then ask them about "Duratorque" suspensions which only have stub axles or the axles on semi-trailers which are welded square section.

Diana

Yes, I can't find anything written either. My present plan is to cut a few inches off each end of an axle housing and turn them down to fit a suitable piece of steam pipe - automatically taking care of the problem of making sure the flange is on straight and fits the stub axle.

John

[Brisso57]

Hi Numpty,

Does the tub fit on No 5 Trailer?

Cheers

Richard

For those of us (myself included) who are not ex-military, can someone provide a link to an explanation of the various types of military trailer which seem to be referred to fairly often here?

ie What are trailers nos 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, ???

Thanks

Doug

[numpty]

Yes, I can't find anything written either. My present plan is to cut a few inches off each end of an axle housing and turn them down to fit a suitable piece of steam pipe - automatically taking care of the problem of making sure the flange is on straight and fits the stub axle.

John

I could be wrong :o John, but I believe solid in this context refers to drawn tube or pipe (as in steam pipe), rather than welded.

As you would be aware, pipe is usually stronger than solid bar anyway, and a deal lighter.

I have heard though, that it's not legal to use a diff housing as a trailer axle assembly.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

... I have heard though, that it's not legal to use a diff housing as a trailer axle assembly.
Numpty

I have heard that also, however I believe it was put in place because people remove the diff, then the axles are not supported which results in the semi-floating bearings failing and the wheel heading west into the never never. With the design of the Land Rover stub axles and hubs the absence of the axle does not interfere with the alignment and support of the hub, so should be O.K.

A friend is currently making up a trailer with exactly the design John seems to be indicating. What he has done is cut the original housing on the inside of the spring plates with the intention of sleeving inside the original to support and align it exactly with the steam pipe. That way he can use all standard LR parts, shock absorbers, springs etc.

How would you prevent oil leaks from the hubs? Would you use a Welsh plug inside the LR stub axle or use grease for the bearings?

Another method for the axle, and something I had considered was to have a solid axle machined to be a press fit inside the LR stub axles. Then use an interrupted weld between the back of the flange and the solid axle.

The flange is then used to support the brake backing plates. Have not seen it done but feel it would be an effective method.

Diana

[JDNSW]

Numpty

..........
How would you prevent oil leaks from the hubs? Would you use a Welsh plug inside the LR stub axle or use grease for the bearings?

Another method for the axle, and something I had considered was to have a solid axle machined to be a press fit inside the LR stub axles. Then use an interrupted weld between the back of the flange and the solid axle.

The flange is then used to support the brake backing plates. Have not seen it done but feel it would be an effective method.

Diana

I would simply use grease and, as you suggest, a welsh plug or similar - probably actually a turned plug welded into the axle to limit how far the grease can go.

I have considered the solid axle approach, but as you say, tube will be lighter, and my intention is a trailer that does not need to be braked (and still have a satisfactory load) - simpler construction and cheaper registration, but more importantly does not require an annual inspection, which is a real pain when you live out of town - you take a trailer into town, and you have very restricted parking options.

John

[jerryd]

I have a trailer made from the rear end of a swb landrover, it uses the original chassis,axle,wheels etc. and it works very well.
If you look at my "introduction" you can see a picture of it hooked up to my landrover.I could email you a few pics of it if you like or you are more than welcome to drop in and have a look.
I'm hoping to turn it into a camper trailer one day ;)

[Aaron IIA]

The Aust. No. 5 trailer is the Army trailer used behind Land Rovers. They have a single tubular drawbar, and a sort of ring-feeder at the rear. The wheels are inboard of the perimeter, under sqared arches in the load bay. They are amphibious, and appear the same as the British Sankey trailer. No brakes. The hood bow runs from front to back. These are common, and still in use.

The Aust. No. 4 trailer is the Army trailer used behind WWII Jeeps. They have a C-section A-frame drawbar, and a 2" bung in the rear, which can be replaced by a tap. The wheels are outboard of the perimeter, under flat three sided arches, when built by GMH-W (General Motors Holden Woodville or War Effert) and round arches, when built by Bantom (who made prototype Jeeps). They were also made by other companies. They are amphibious. The GMH-W units have no brakes, while the Bantom units have ratchet parking brakes with shock absorbers. The hood bow runs from left to right. These are common.

The Aust. No. 3 trailer is the same as the Aust. No. 4 trailer, except that they have a pintile hook at the rear instead of the 2" bung. These are not common.

Aaron.

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

Hi,

I'm about to embark on restoring a S2A, but prior to that I'm thinking I'll buy a box trailer to fetch and carry parts, etc.

I then started thinking it'd be good to buy one with fitted with S2A steel rims and tyres, and have it painted the same colours as I eventually want the 2A: LR "Olive Green" and "Limestone".

What I have in mind is a pretty basic box trailer , not intended for hairy-chested off-road use.

What suggestions can anyone contribute, with regard to features, etc.?

Does anyone have any pictures of a similar rig?

Thanks

Doug

... and PS ...
Perhaps you could PM me if you live in Brisbane, and have had a good experience with have a similar trailer custom built. I'd be interested to hear your recommendation.

give me a couple of days to get some pics organised. I am currently in the process of removing my rusted busted ass Hilux wellbody off the frame and replacing with an SIIa LWB well.
Axle is tubular with RRC hubs on it. The Hilux body should be off in a day or two so I will take pics of the frame and post them here

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

for trailer specs, use this link. http://www.trailerparts.net.au/pamphlets/Vehicle_License_Reg..pdf

I generally use these guys here in Perth. Although they have LAndrover hubs, these are based on std trailer type bearings and axles, NOT Landrover. Its only the stud pattern that matches.

Martin's Trailer Parts (http://www.trailerparts.net.au/)

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

Numpty

I have heard that also, however I believe it was put in place because people remove the diff, then the axles are not supported which results in the semi-floating bearings failing and the wheel heading west into the never never. With the design of the Land Rover stub axles and hubs the absence of the axle does not interfere with the alignment and support of the hub, so should be O.K.

A friend is currently making up a trailer with exactly the design John seems to be indicating. What he has done is cut the original housing on the inside of the spring plates with the intention of sleeving inside the original to support and align it exactly with the steam pipe. That way he can use all standard LR parts, shock absorbers, springs etc.

How would you prevent oil leaks from the hubs? Would you use a Welsh plug inside the LR stub axle or use grease for the bearings?

Another method for the axle, and something I had considered was to have a solid axle machined to be a press fit inside the LR stub axles. Then use an interrupted weld between the back of the flange and the solid axle.

The flange is then used to support the brake backing plates. Have not seen it done but feel it would be an effective method.

Diana


Early RRC & Disco front hubs had an oil seal on both the inner and outer bearing. If you took off the drive flange, there would be a seal on the end of the hub. I think it does depend on what stub you use, but this is the best way of sealing the bearings. Have a look at the Bearmach catalogue as they do list these.
As for the axle, the stubs are designed to carry the weight of the vehicle not the axle. This is why your hub bearings run from the stub. The axle is a floating arrangement and does nothing other than to provide drive to the wheels in a vehicle.

As i said, i will provide pics of my "undercarriage" in a few days and all will be clear as mud!!

[Blknight.aus]

as your in brissy if you need it to collect gear your welcome to borrow my big green trailer.

Ive got a thread on cutting the SWB chassis down to turn it into a trailer with a plan for the draw bar on it as well...

Its not as weighty as you might imagine and all it leaves you to do is replace the stock axle with something lighter.

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

Have removed the Rolux tray an put the SIIA in place.
Pic 1 & 2: The old tray
Pic3: Framework pre gutting un needed steelwork. Cut out minor crossmembers from previous tray.
Pic 4: Tubular axle running RRC front hubs on spindles etc
Pic 5: ready to install new mounting sub rails

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

Pic 1: welding in rails
Pic 2 & 3: Mounted in place!

All that was left was connecting to the recently replace wiring. Added original SIIa tail lights with the addition of reversing lamps which were actually front park lamps and did this today.
All that is really left to do before rego is to close off the bulkhead area where the seat backs were (turning this into a separate storage compartment for bits), reposition the mudflaps and add flares to cover the wheels.
Re galving and spraypainting will come later.
The front LH blank panel opposite the spare wheel well will be turned into another compartment as per the two in the rear. Not sure if I will use the wheel well yet for a spare as I will need to have a new tarp made for it (current Hilux one fits perfectly!) This may also be changed to additional storage. Suspension may be lowered slightly too.
This body change has lightened it by approx 70 or so kilo's plus about 10 kg we cut from the chassis!

[digger]

NICE JOB!!

why not put a small water/fuel tank on rhs of trailer front?, you already have the filler hole there? Mount your spare here also and then only need to open whatever door you put on to get access as opposed to in trailer and in amoungst whatever you are carrying....

also suggest the new front for seat box area be angled to reduce back window richochet damage?

I like your work, and the knowledge that the hilux cover fits is sure to be handy for others!!
Cheers

digger

[JohnF]

Friend wrecked a series LR and made a work trailer from the tub which I saw last night while looking at his RR which we may buy. He is going to put a water tank, filled where the petrol filler was. It looks neat, am thinking of doing the same.

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

NICE JOB!!

why not put a small water/fuel tank on rhs of trailer front?, you already have the filler hole there? Mount your spare here also and then only need to open whatever door you put on to get access as opposed to in trailer and in amoungst whatever you are carrying....

also suggest the new front for seat box area be angled to reduce back window richochet damage?

I like your work, and the knowledge that the hilux cover fits is sure to be handy for others!!
Cheers

digger

Thanks.

I have thought about a water tank as I may just turn it into a campertrailer down the track.

The spare will most likely go on the front where I enclose it, much the same as it was on the old body.
I did look at cutting the sides down to match the seatback angle, but it would look out of place plus its a good way to store ropes, snatchies etc and big items that wont fit into the rear storage compartments already in the tray.

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

Trailer is now basically finished. You can see the pics in the TRAILERS section here (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/trailers-vans-campers/63367-out-rolux-109-a.html)