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Yorkie
3rd May 2008, 08:35 AM
hi fellow d2 owners,

well had the car in at dpl during the week, first time since purchase last dec and the report on problems to be fixed
the good: already chipped :D
the bad: t/case leak ($690), intercooler leak ($500), exhaust flex joint rattle($540)
the ugly: exhaust manifold stud broken ($960), slight radiator leak ($850) had some stop leak put in for now.

so time to start saving some $$ but what order would you prioritise repairs?.

cheers
yorkie :)

incisor
3rd May 2008, 08:42 AM
holy unhappy hippos batman!

$540 for an exhaust flex joint... :eek:

should cost 150 max including fitting i would have thought..

me thinks you need to get a second opinion.....

Slunnie
3rd May 2008, 08:50 AM
hi fellow d2 owners,

well had the car in at dpl during the week, first time since purchase last dec and the report on problems to be fixed
the good: already chipped :D
the bad: t/case leak ($690), intercooler leak ($500), exhaust flex joint rattle($540)
the ugly: exhaust manifold stud broken ($960), slight radiator leak ($850) had some stop leak put in for now.

so time to start saving some $$ but what order would you prioritise repairs?.

cheers
yorkie :)
Raditator & Exhaust manifold

then

find out why the intercooler... its a weird one to find unless its just a hose.

then

exhaust flex


I wouldn't worry too much about the t/f as long as it has oil in it.



transfer case

Vinnie
3rd May 2008, 08:53 AM
Hi,

All sounds a little expensive to me for just what is essentially leaks. It depends on how bad the leaks are. I would do them in order of how bad the leaks are.

I would get the manifold stud problem done (seeing as it's broken), but go to a specialist exhaust place (should be cheaper) or independent exhaust place and get second opinion. When you get the manifold done you might as well get the flex joint problem looked at and fixed if needed.

Then I would go to a specialist radiatior place and get the radiator repaired. Would be suprised if it costs as much as you've been quoted to get it repaired. Out of the transfer case and intercooler leak I would tend to lean towards the intercooler leak first. Last thing you want is that to pack up and as a result blow the turbo. Then tackle the transfer case. Get second quote on the repair though. If it's only a seal of some sort I can't imagine it costing that much to be replaced. If the leak is only slight I wouldn't panic to much, it is a LR after all.

That's my two cents worth anyway. Good luck, but most of all get a couple of prices to make sure you're not being ripped!

Cheers

Chris.

weeds
3rd May 2008, 10:20 AM
holy unhappy hippos batman!

$540 for an exhaust flex joint... :eek:

should cost 150 max including fitting i would have thought..

me thinks you need to get a second opinion.....

i had a complete 2.5in exhaust including flex joint for $200....no mufflers

drop into your local exhaust place

Yorkie
3rd May 2008, 12:36 PM
thanks all so far and yes will be getting second opinion on all.
prices quoted would include labour but yes still exxy.

cheers
yorkie:)

ps. can the core of the radiator be repaired, it is aluminium is'nt it?

101RRS
3rd May 2008, 12:50 PM
And mechanics wonder why we do not believe them when they tell us things. My faith in their capabilities but more so their ethics disappeared long ago.

Fusion
3rd May 2008, 01:34 PM
Would save a little cash if you were to do some of the work yourself . ie: remove the radiator + refit it once fixed . Some places love to burn a hole in your pockets . Do what you can and spend the savings on beer ;):D:angel:.

ak
3rd May 2008, 02:43 PM
Those prices are bloody expensive who does "dpl" stand for again?

To give you an idea I had my radiator replaced by Graeme Coopers at the start of the year including labour for under $600 ... and I know I could get it a bit cheaper somewhere else, but they do all my servicing and mods and I trust them plus I am the sort of person that likes to remain loyal up to a point though.

Plus these guys know their Landies inside out.

ak
3rd May 2008, 02:50 PM
thanks all so far and yes will be getting second opinion on all.
prices quoted would include labour but yes still exxy.

cheers
yorkie:)

ps. can the core of the radiator be repaired, it is aluminium is'nt it?

I have been told the radiator can't be re-cored for this very reason it is aluminium.

ak
3rd May 2008, 02:52 PM
Forgot to mention you are better off not stuffing around and putting a new radiator in a TD5 because if you over heat it ( plenty of threads on this ) big $$$.

Yorkie
4th May 2008, 10:00 AM
ak,
dpl is davies performance landys, i am glad i got it into them as along with fixing a sump leak the above have been found. just suprised by the quotes given?. also being a one car family taking the rad out myself is not possible unless i get a new one and have a barbie and rad fitting arvo! :D
this gives me the knowledge of what needs doing and can no prioritise along with needing new tyres and rego due soon time to start saving.... :cool:
cheers
yorkie

Slunnie
4th May 2008, 06:36 PM
You don't "just" replace a D2 TD5 radiator. They take a fair bit of time to get out, and then again to get in. I learnt that at Cape York.

The thing with the TD5 is that they are vulnerable if overheated. I reckon that in reality, this is the things that would kill them the most. I'm pretty sure that I did some calculations a while ago that worked out that with coolant mixed properly and no pressure in the coolant system that the temps will be marginal with respect to boiling the coolant at the TD5's hottest. Likewise roughly if there is pressure, but with plain water in the radiator.

I think this is your biggest worry.

The other was the exhaust manifold as you don't want to do any further damage to the head or whatever. They're also expensive if damaged.

The other stuff isn't as critical as they won't cause an accident and they wont damage expensive bits unless the transfer goes dry.

Yorkie
5th May 2008, 10:12 AM
hi simon,
thanks the advice and i know all too well about what cooling system probs can do from my old toyota surf you saw a few years back.
the rad only has a slight leak and some stop leak stuff was put in it by bruce so will keep an eye on it for the time being.
cheers
liam

p38arover
5th May 2008, 10:44 AM
There is a thread elsewhere on the forum about stud removal by some travelling chappie in Sydney.

Also look up the thread on TD5 exhaust manifold modifcation to reduce this stud breakage problem.

Ahh, here we are: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery/50112-broken-manifold-studs-again.html

4wd4fun
8th May 2008, 03:56 PM
Same as a lot of pevious replies, My flex joint was not leeking but the outer mesh had split causing a ratle drone so I obtained some stainless wire mesh and wraped it around the old mesh and fitted 3 stainless hose clamps one each end and one in the middle with the screws to the top so as not to hook on anything off road this has gone for 100000 km. Cost $15.00 10 min work.
Rover Service Centre said it was fine and good idea as the rest of the exhaust is ok.
Cheers Allan.

Redback
8th May 2008, 04:20 PM
hi fellow d2 owners,

well had the car in at dpl during the week, first time since purchase last dec and the report on problems to be fixed
the good: already chipped :D
the bad: t/case leak ($690), intercooler leak ($500), exhaust flex joint rattle($540)
the ugly: exhaust manifold stud broken ($960), slight radiator leak ($850) had some stop leak put in for now.

so time to start saving some $$ but what order would you prioritise repairs?.

cheers
yorkie :)

I would do the Radiator and intercooler first, if you do it yourself it will be 1/2 what you were quoted.

Then Exhaust, you can get a complete 3" mandrel bend exhaust for $850 fitted.

Fixing the transfer case leaks shouldn't be more than $500 IMHO, having had mine done recently.

As for the studs, $400 max including the studs and shaving of the manifold.

Baz.