Coating of Bolts

[TimNZ]

Hi, can anyone can provide some advice on what to coat the shafts of bolts, that go through the chassis, which are used for mounting winch bars, recovery points, etc with? (As well as anti-cease on the threads).
After removing the bumper on my '89 110 the bolts had corroded so badly that they could be bent by hand! When I refitted the bumper, (with new bolts!!), I used grease on the shafts of bolts to stop them corroding. When I pulled a bolt out to inspect it 6 months later I noticed it had already started to rust where the grease had been wiped off.
I've found a lanolin product that is far sticker than the GP grease I used, or would I be better to find/make a small hole in the chassis so I could get in there with a corrosion inhibitor once everything is fitted up??

Thanks in advance,

Tim.

[Sprint]

give the shaft of the bolt a wipe with never-sieze, usually does the trick, a bit will get wiped off, but usually enough is left to do the trick

lanolin is good s**t too

[mike 90 RR]

Hi Tim
Havn't done this myself but
You can buy a spray can of Galvanized paint
Coat on cleaned bolts / Dry them / then install

Just a idea :)

[Blknight.aus]

give the bolts a good clean off and then hit them with kill rust primer and then paint with a good hard paint like hammerlock and install carefully.

[JDNSW]

Ideal answer - use sherardised bolts - however, these are virtually extinct and although a possible solution is galvanised bolts, you will have problems finding them in the grades you want.

Stainless steel can be used to some advantage, but most grades are subject to work hardening and cracking.

Paint of any kind, including galvanising paint is not very effective in the sort of application you are talking about, as it is too likely to be damaged during installation.

The practical solution is Sprint's - a good antiseize coating, same as you put on the thread. Lanolin is, as he says, also effective.

John

[disco2hse]

What about copper grease? Is that an option in this case?

[disco2hse]

What about copper grease? Is that an option in this case?

Hey what's happened to my signature?

[JDNSW]

What about copper grease? Is that an option in this case?

Copper grease is one variety of anti-seize, and is suitable for use in this case.

John

[Don 130]

be very careful replacing steel bolts with stainless steel unless your'e sure of the engineering ramifications.I'm not an engineer but I know that many steel bolts are designed to take lot more punishment than a same size stainless 'equivalent ' would cope with. Don

[mcrover]

Problem with putting anti sieze etc on the bolts that hold bumpers and bull bars on is that with vibrations they are more likely to come loose if not tensioned down properly.

It is best to make sure you can lock them up securely and then stop them from getting affected by moisture by painting them with something thick and gooy like under body deadener once done up.

To undo them you need to remove it but they wont rust in anymore.

Lanotech is fantastic for keeping moisture out and wont wash off so I would highly recomend that in your chassis for rust prevention although I havnt got around to doing mine.

Peak Rust tech is another WD type product with Lanolin in it that is good for stopping metal from rusting an wont wash off.

[TimNZ]

Hi all, thanks for all the replys! I wasn't so much worried about the thread of the bolt, just the shaft of the bolt inside the chassis.
I wanted to avoid painting them because generally they are a tight fit and the paint may be scraped off, (especially if the holes don't line up perfectly...).
I've found a lanolin product called "Lanotec Type A Grease". It's corrosion, acid, salt etc resistant, (Its even food grade just in case!!). I think I'll go with coating the inside of the tube, (in the chassis), and the bolt shank with the "Lanotec". I'll pull them out after they've been in the vehicle for a few, (wet), months and see how they are.
I know you should go around and check all your suspension and recovery point bolts periodically, I learnt this lesson the hard way when I found the nut on the end of my drivers side rear trailing arm had partially undone. I thought something was about to let go in my transmission! However tightening a nut onto a rusty bolt isn't going to help!

Thanks agian for all your help!!

Tim

[trev]

A Molydenum Disulphide grease will work very well for such applications.
It hangs on extremely well.If it gets on your clothes use them for rags...you won`t get it off.


Trev.