P38A Heater Core Replacement

[p38arover]

What have I been doing this weekend?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/05/369.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/05/370.jpg

[rovercare]

HAHAHA:p

I've done so many dash's doing wierd conversion, its not funny, its a very daunting task the first time, but you'll get used to it:D

[simonr23]

are you expecting many gubbins on the remount? looks like quite a task.

[adm333]

Holy smoke :eek:

And here was me chuffed just making the EAS unlock cable.

Good luck with the rebuild.

I'd offer to come over and help (and learn) if I was closer.

Dave

[p38arover]

It's all in - and now it has to come out again. The brand new heater core from Land Rover leaks more than the old one did and it's not the heater O-rings.

[Relay]

My suggestion Ron...take whatever core ya get, to a radiator place and get it pressure tested before installation!

And trust me, that one doesn't look -too- bad. I've got pretty good at heater cores in my time XD, considering I've done...a few put it that way. I even did the Rocky's, and it hasn't gone back in :o. Because it's such a pain.

The evaporator looks fun to do on those too ;). Call me stupid, but is it not possible to unbolt the entire metal brace with crash pad and dash panels attached? I've never done a p38 before, but that's generally how it works.

And Ron, what's all that icky wiring hanging around? You ought to be ashamed of yourself!

[p38arover]

Yes, one can remove the whole fascia and that's the recommended method. Dunno if it is any easier. I am replacing the top of the dash with one I bought from Melbourne last year.

Yes. the white temporary wiring. All the rest is factory.

[Relay]

:o I always knew RR secretly wanted to make their wiring look like a nightmare. I take it back, you shouldn't be ashamed of yourself. They should be ashamed of themselves!

So is it coming back out today?

[p38arover]

Undecided on whether to pull it today or tomorrow. I've not got the will at the moment. :(

[rovercare]

Bad apprentice Ron, you should know, you always test the goods before install, even when new:(

Very easy to pressure test yourself with an air compressor with regulator fitted

[jsp]

I am happy to do it for you Ron...............you can get cheap air fares on Virgin ;)

[p38arover]

Oh, Relay, another reason for doing it this way is that one doesn't need to touch the aircon system so therefore it doesn't need evacuating and recharging.

Fortunately, I filled the radiator before buttoning it all up. It could be worse.

It's still a pain to pull it apart. The water is dripping at a fast rate and it's not even under pressure,

[PLR]

G`day Ron

A mates just done his , you may be aware of the following found .

The top pipe was misaligned as in didn`t go into the tank at the correct angle . The new pipe was the correct angle , and the lower pipe was correct but replaced anyway .

Where his leaked was not at the pipe or seal .

The problem was ( and by all accounts is a common one ) that the way the pipes are fixed/secured . The plastic cracked at the back of where the pipes connect caused by the pressure of the mounting bolt ( we pressume ) the fluid was escaping in the same manner as yours is after reassemble ( the fault was thought to be the o rings ) .
If a little more plastic was used in the mould of the plastic tank it wouldn`t occur and one would expect to see an update but the new one is the same .

This car is now fitted with a removable lower frame ( cut and joined with straps and 10mm bolts ) for next time .

Cheers

[p38arover]

Thanks Peter.

I can't see any trace of leakage at the junction of the pipes and the heater. But I'll enquire about the change in pipes. I see from Microcat that only later part nos. are listed - PEP103370 and PEP103380. I can't find any reference to a change in any of the TSBs that I have.

I know what you mean about cracking the plastic. JSP had a crack in his which only leaked under pressure. I had a look at his heater and you can't see the crack. In fact, when I did mine, I was particularly careful to not tighten it too much for fear of cracking the plastic.

The pipes do have to be located properly - there is a notch in the pipes and a corresponding lug in the heater. I disconnected the hoses under the bonnet to ensure the pipes were able to easily move around (actually I had removed them for a thorough clean of the both ends of each).

I don't suppose your friend took any pics of the removable section so we can post it on the RangeRovers.net website? I had a look and it looks like a lot of cutting is required to gain access. It appears the steering column would need to be removed as well.

[PLR]

G`day Ron

I doubt pics but i`ll ask , i didn`t take any .

The crack in this one can be seen inside the hole where the pipe fits near the base . It`s hard to find because it`s in a circular manner and very fine internal . Once located , with flex it can be found externally .
Easier to apply air pressure then obvious .

If it wasn`t for the sensor on the pipe .
The pipes were going to be cut short glued and bolted and heater hose was to be run through the firewall .
If it happens again short term it will be looked at again and also an all metal tank with short pipes fixed .

Cheers

[p38arover]

My new heater core:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/1170.jpg

The old one with cracked fitting. I have another here with exactly the same crack. You can just see it, a vertical line in the side of the hole

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/1432.jpg

[ladas]

My new heater core:



The old one with cracked fitting. I have another here with exactly the same crack. You can just see it, a vertical line in the side of the hole



At least the new one is repairable - copper nail and a little silver solder