Power Supply for a New Radio

[Big D]

I'm in the process of installing a UHF radio in a Discovery II. The radio is a remote head unit with the main unit located behind the cover under the steering wheel.

Open to any suggestions as to where (which wires) to get a suitable accessories power supply (only on when the ignition switch is on). There has to be several options here!

I'm sure that there is a suitable clue in a previous thread but I can't seem to find it.

Thanks in advance.
Derek

[loanrangie]

I mounted my GME in the same location by siliconing the bracket to the inside of the cover, i ended up hard wiring it so i can use without a key , otherwise splicing into the stereo or cigi lighter socket work well.

[Big D]

Thanks LoanRangie,

Are there any downsides to having the unit hard wired or do you have a second battery?

The unit I've got is the GME3440 with the controls on the remote mike. I'm not sure how off, off is hence a preference to connect it to a switched supply. I'll look into the cig lighter option.

[njz]

There is an ignition switched supply you can use on the right hand side of the fuse box under the steering wheel.

There are a two or three small square sockets with male blade type connectors in them.

Just use your multimeter or test light to find the one thats live when you have the ignition on.

D1 and D2 both have these sockets. They aren't fused so make sure you put in an inline fuse.

Too easy ;)

[Big D]

Thanks Nik for this gem of information. It will have to wait till next weekend but it does sound "too easy".

[Davo]

Not that I'm any expert on this sparky stuff, but when I looked into installing my two radios I got the impression that it's best to wire the feed straight off the battery with an inline fuse, and to run the earth straight to the chassis, not the battery. Apparently this helps to avoid radio interference form other 'lecky stuff.

[ladas]

There is an ignition switched supply you can use on the right hand side of the fuse box under the steering wheel.

There are a two or three small square sockets with male blade type connectors in them.

Just use your multimeter or test light to find the one thats live when you have the ignition on.

D1 and D2 both have these sockets. They aren't fused so make sure you put in an inline fuse.

Too easy ;)

Well blow me down - there i isn't there

Wish I had known that before I 'piggy backed' my connections - would have certainly been a lot neater

Thanks

[Treads]

I've found the best way to run power from your 2nd battery but only come on with acc power is to use a 4-pole relay. Have the power wire going to pole 30, whilst sourcing activation (pole 86) from your acc socket under the dash. Fiddly but better in the long run especially if you're running high wattage radios like mine (50w VHF/UHF combo)

[loanrangie]

I've found the best way to run power from your 2nd battery but only come on with acc power is to use a 4-pole relay. Have the power wire going to pole 30, whilst sourcing activation (pole 86) from your acc socket under the dash. Fiddly but better in the long run especially if you're running high wattage radios like mine (50w VHF/UHF combo)

Thats a great idea, i was toying with the idea of wiring my stereo/uhf etc so that when engine is running power is sourced from the acc. power but then switches to the aux. batt when switched off. I'm no electrikery guru so i just wired my uhf to an already supplied constant power feed.