Tubed or tubeless

[V8Landy]

Who run's tubes in there offroad tyres.The reason i ask is the last 2 times i have been out i have rolled a tyre off the rim(running about 15psi) and am wondering if fitting tubes may help or are the only fix's running higher pressure's or beadlocks.Cheers Brett

[Col.Coleman]

Mate, I just changed all my rims over so I could run tubeless. The advantages I see and changed for are less heat build up and friction, the ability to plug a tyre without removing it, I can fit a tube later if needed and run staun beadlocks. in regard to running your tyres off the rim at low pressure, with out a tube you can put it back on, but will be out of balance as it has moved. Try and line up a reference point on your tyres before this happens so you can fit it back in the same place. with a tube in place you will most likely rip the stem off the tube and have to put a new tube back in. Also with a puncture you need to repait the tyre and the tube. If you are having a recurring problem with your tyre rim combination beadlocks are the only option. Fot some reason they are not legal for road use in oz so the mechanical bolted rim style are not for you. The staun jobbies are the go as it is only drilling an extra hole and most people won't know they are there and they lock both beads. All tyres should be balnced reguarly especially when you air down reguarly due to slippage under torque loads.

So, keep the tube as a last resort and beadlock it.

cheers
CC

[Scouse]

I prefer tubeless if the wheels have the safety bead.

Currently I'm using the old RR steel rims that don't have the safety bead so I'm using tubes. I'm just waiting for the tyre to slip on the rim & tear out the valve :(. I think I'll glue the tyre to the rim ;).

[isuzurover]

I run my tyres as low as 7psi offroad and have never lost a bead. However, some tyres and some rims seem better at holding beads than others (e.g. simex have a bad rep).

If you are happy with your rims and tyres, the options are as you mentioned - and also using sikaflex (poor man's beadlock) to hold the bead.

[cookiesa]

Since changing the tyres on my BJ40 to tubeless I have never looked back. I can't see there being much, if any difference in ability to stop the tyre rolling off the rim. the softer tube wouldn't stop the bead moving away from the rim

[Tusker]

What size tyres & what rims are you running?

[V8Landy]

What size tyres & what rims are you running?

Standard disco steel rims and simex 32x9.5 extreme trekkers.Cheers Brett

[V8Landy]

I run my tyres as low as 7psi offroad and have never lost a bead. However, some tyres and some rims seem better at holding beads than others (e.g. simex have a bad rep).

If you are happy with your rims and tyres, the options are as you mentioned - and also using sikaled (poor man's beadlock) to hold the bead.

What tyres are you running and what is sikaled.Cheers Brett

[rovercare]

Mate, I just changed all my rims over so I could run tubeless. The advantages I see and changed for are less heat build up and friction, the ability to plug a tyre without removing it, I can fit a tube later if needed and run staun beadlocks. in regard to running your tyres off the rim at low pressure, with out a tube you can put it back on, but will be out of balance as it has moved. Try and line up a reference point on your tyres before this happens so you can fit it back in the same place. with a tube in place you will most likely rip the stem off the tube and have to put a new tube back in. Also with a puncture you need to repait the tyre and the tube. If you are having a recurring problem with your tyre rim combination beadlocks are the only option. Fot some reason they are not legal for road use in oz so the mechanical bolted rim style are not for you. The staun jobbies are the go as it is only drilling an extra hole and most people won't know they are there and they lock both beads. All tyres should be balnced reguarly especially when you air down reguarly due to slippage under torque loads.

So, keep the tube as a last resort and beadlock it.

cheers
CC

You can't run internal beadlocks AND tubes;)

I ran tubes for years, in my 35" centipedes now internal locks, the internals are a pain, they still get **** in the bead, but never unseat, so you're still forever cleaning the bead:mad: would prefer to stay with tubes:(

Externals for me next:)

[Fusion]

To solve all of your problems run forklift tyres :p:D.

[V8Landy]

You can't run internal beadlocks AND tubes;)
Externals for me next:)

Does this mean external beadlocks and if so what sort of money.I was thinking of going this way but was told they are illegal;) but probably would'nt worry me to much as they are only my play tyres.Cheers Brett

[isuzurover]

What tyres are you running and what is sikaled.Cheers Brett

Sorry - typo - Sikaflex - silicone-like adhesive. Holds the world together.

I have 285/75-16 and 255/85-16s (both 33"), both on galvanised disco 7x16 steels.


Oh - and external beadlocks are illegal. However quite a few people seem to get away with them.

Internal beadlocks would mean tubes are no longer needed.

[Tusker]

It does seem to be a Simex problem. They peel too easily. I had the same problem with them, & a few on Outer Limits have too. Not sure why.

Secondairs fixed it for me.

Regards
Max P

[rovercare]

Does this mean external beadlocks and if so what sort of money.I was thinking of going this way but was told they are illegal;) but probably would'nt worry me to much as they are only my play tyres.Cheers Brett

Illegal smegal, so are my 35's

100 bucks a rim DIY and up from there:D

[rovercare]

Sorry - typo - Sikaflex - silicone-like adhesive. Holds the world together.

I have 285/75-16 and 255/85-16s (both 33"), both on galvanised disco 7x16 steels.


Oh - and external beadlocks are illegal. However quite a few people seem to get away with them.

Internal beadlocks would mean tubes are no longer needed.

What happens when you want to get your tyres of the rims, ever seen how good sikaflex is:D, maybe a bit of roof and gutter, like speedway;)

[rangieman]

I run tubes in my swampers that are mounted on flipped disco rims which are off road wheels only , I have been out with plenty of people who run tubeless tyres and they are for ever getting mud inbetween the bead and the rim , when run at lower than normal pressure = tyres always go flat
Tubes for off road tyres i say ;)

[Blknight.aus]

define off road.

in most cases it doesnt make a lot of difference till you get down to 15 or less PSI.

then you have to choose between contamination inside the bead letting your tyres down or tearing the tube if you get any tyre/rim slippage.

I prefer tubes but then I also prefer split rims.

A tubed tyre is easier to butcher back into life if need be with some tarp your old tube, a new tube and plenty of baby powder.

a tubeless with a small leak is easier to field repair.

a tubed tyre is easier to seat + inflate

A tubless tyre is easier to get apart in the first place (usually)

[isuzurover]

What happens when you want to get your tyres of the rims, ever seen how good sikaflex is:D, maybe a bit of roof and gutter, like speedway;)

Yeah, maybe... But you probably won't break either with a tyre lever

[Col.Coleman]

You can't run internal beadlocks AND tubes;)

I ran tubes for years, in my 35" centipedes now internal locks, the internals are a pain, they still get **** in the bead, but never unseat, so you're still forever cleaning the bead:mad: would prefer to stay with tubes:(

Externals for me next:)

Yes you can't run the internals with tubes, nor can you run the internal tyre pressure monitors that clamp around the rim.

The mechanical beadlocks only clamp the outer face and will still pop the inside bead. This used to annoy me greatly in supersedan speedway when I was crewing and we were running around 4psi - 15psi max. It is a trade off. For my use which is mainly touring, tubeless and internals are the go. Play tyres, mech and tubes, but you have to be comfortable running the legal gauntlet. That bit is up to your own discretion.

CC

[cookiesa]

define off road.

in most cases it doesnt make a lot of difference till you get down to 15 or less PSI.

then you have to choose between contamination inside the bead letting your tyres down or tearing the tube if you get any tyre/rim slippage.

I prefer tubes but then I also prefer split rims.

A tubed tyre is easier to butcher back into life if need be with some tarp your old tube, a new tube and plenty of baby powder.

a tubeless with a small leak is easier to field repair.

a tubed tyre is easier to seat + inflate

A tubless tyre is easier to get apart in the first place (usually)

My only concern with splits is having seen the damage to the bottom of a patrol after one let go when being inflated (Glad he had the sense to place it under the vehicle) It is amazing how much energy they release!

I think it is quite amazing how little trouble you have with modern tyres. I have had the issue of a slowly deflating tyre after a week of sand driving but after the tyre shop cleaned it out no more problems! (I thought I must have picked up a small stake but couldn't find it)

[V8Landy]

So whats involved with fitting external beadlocks.Cheers Brett

[Fusion]

I never had any trouble with external bead locks on my speedway car . The onlt time i have had a bead lock fail is hitting the wall at a fair rate of knots :D. As long as the bead lock is flat around the surface you won't have any trouble what so ever .

Not sure how to go about it as I always bought the wheels with the bead locks on them :D.

[disco2hse]

Just my 2 cents.

I have tubes for one reason, mainly ;)

The tyres I use are 7.5 16 Jeep Service. Cheap (less than half the price of muddies) and hard wearing, and as far as I know, don't come tubeless.

Oh, and I usually go offroad at around 18-20lb but as low as 12-15lb. Never lost a tyre but have got flatties from sharp stuff getting in the side.

Alan

[isuzurover]

So whats involved with fitting external beadlocks.Cheers Brett

Most people buy the rims with beadlocks already. But if you are handy with machining/welding, you can buy external beadlock kits. You need to machine down/cut off the outer bead of the rim (on a lathe preferably), and then weld the beadlock on.

[Blknight.aus]

My only concern with splits is having seen the damage to the bottom of a patrol after one let go when being inflated (Glad he had the sense to place it under the vehicle) It is amazing how much energy they release!

I think it is quite amazing how little trouble you have with modern tyres. I have had the issue of a slowly deflating tyre after a week of sand driving but after the tyre shop cleaned it out no more problems! (I thought I must have picked up a small stake but couldn't find it)



yep been there seen that with 110psI in a mack tyre. put the lock ring into a tree.

I chain mine and then inflate them on the other side of a big tree but then I also check split rims at 5 PSI to make sure that they have seated properly before going to full pressure.

Split rims arent for everyone and my main reason for likeing them is they are usually of heavier mild steel construction and if you prang one it can be repaired or have the split repaired if needed.

[Col.Coleman]

I never had any trouble with external bead locks on my speedway car . The onlt time i have had a bead lock fail is hitting the wall at a fair rate of knots :D. As long as the bead lock is flat around the surface you won't have any trouble what so ever .

Not sure how to go about it as I always bought the wheels with the bead locks on them :D.

It was always the inner bead on the left hand wheels as the inner bead isn't locked. For short races not normally a problem, but 50 or 100 lappers the track would chew and dry out and ocaasionally rip a bead off. The mickey t and hoosiers were a real tight fit over the rim too. Needed to wet the rims to get them on. No tubes either.

CC

[malleefowl]

I currently have tubes but does anyone run these tubless?
Cheers,
Mary