Clutch slave pushrod - Oh the shame

[abaddonxi]

I read all the instructions, I even remembered a thread mentioning what not to do.

Still, somehow it happened.

The pushrod came out. I don't know how, it wasn't like I gave it great heaves or anything.

I read this post - http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/35835-clutch-slave-cylinder-prob.html#post510130

which is excellent, thanks Dave, but is talking about another, similar situation - judging by exhaust and starter, and that the pushrod retaining clip clips over the fork, not into.

I tried the long fingers, and a bit of hose, and several long pokey things.

Then I gave up for the day, and NO BEER.

Any suggestions?

Aside from buying beer.

300Tdi with this clip - Nope, picture just don't work. It has two hook clips with the hooks pointing outwards away from each other, they fit through a slot and theory should be that once they're in, they don't come out.

TIA
Simon

[roverrescue]

Dont sweat on it. If you mean the push rod ball has come out from the retaining clip that holds it into the pivot.. just use a dob of grease, place it in the cup, then slide the rod into the slave with rubber grease, once you strat to bolt the slave up the rod will be engaged. It cant fall out.

Steve

[Blknight.aus]

the secret lies in getting the legs of the clip far enough apart to slide over the fork...

If you have one of the slave cylinders with the assist spring inside of it you have one more option...

Ive used it a couple of times to get people out of trouble....


you dont need the clip, just some thin cordage a piece of wire with a hook bent in it and a knowlodge of knots.


what you need to do is tie a slipper hitch onto the fork end of the pushrod and then feed the 2 ends into the bell housing through the clutch cylinder orifice and hook them ove the top of the fork, behind it and down into the bell housing and out the bell housing drain hole.

(practice your slipper hitch, make sure it will come undone.) lable the line that will allow you to apply tension and when youve got the rod seated into the fork put a weight on that line to hold it in place then when youve assembled the clutch cylinder to the bell housing and preformed a hydraulics test on it (DO NOT START THE ENGINE or if you do have someone handy to record it on video to send into AFHV or at least Utube) pull the second piece of cord and if youve done it right it should all just fall out.

retest the hydraulics and your done.

edit (typos spelling and comment on rover cares trick)

Ive tried the grease thing and Ive never gotten it to work... I know I know it should but its like the traffic lights thing with me... I should statistically get 50% green but I get about 2.


try the grease first if it works your laughing

[abaddonxi]

Here's the clip, and you can see why I'm confused about clipping over the fork.

I keep having the two legs bending outwards and not wanting to get into the hole.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/05/265.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/05/266.jpg

Cheers
Simon

[Blknight.aus]

make up the rubber hose the other way, cut a section out of it so it holds the pins inwards,

place the rod down the hole then push it on with a tube between the hose and the rod (same as the series idea)

hold it in place with the tube, and pull the hose off.

[abaddonxi]

Made a very handsome tool out of a piece of copper pipe.

Did all the right things, except that using the tool I couldn't find the slot.

Went with the long fingers and got the clip on.

Then took it off again because the hose doesn't have a spinny nut.

Then put it on again.

Now I've just finished filling it with new fluid and it doesn't work. The pedal goes down a bit and then gets very firm. Master cylinder moves freely, slave cylinder was moving fine before I put it in.

So, I guess it's coming off again.

:(

Cheers
Simon

[abaddonxi]

Anyone?

help.

Cheers
Simon

[Pedro_The_Swift]

you know I would,,,


if I could just find that magical kingdom---


:angel:

[rick130]

Sorry, can't help Si.
When we did my clutch, we made a cupped washer and tacked it on with the MIG, so I'll never have the pushrod fall out, ever.
(as I didn't order the retaining clips for either end of the clutch fork.....:angel:)

[abaddonxi]

Okay, pulled the slave cylinder again. Pushrod is still firmly clipped so that isn't the problem.

What stupid thing have I done now?

Aside from draining the hydraulic fluid again, which I'm beginning to think was unnecessary.:mad:

The pushrod stands proud of the hole by only 5mm or less and the clutch fork seems to be deeper into the hole than it was when I put the clip on. I did read something nasty about the clutch fork coming adrift.

Any ideas?

Cheers
Simon

[Blknight.aus]

did you reuse the old fork?

if so
there are 3 possabilities.

1. the fork has sat in on the pivot and your not getting the throw needed as the pivot point is now further away from the clutch.

2. The new thrust bearing carrier has collapsed which is unlikely but not unheard of or if its the old fork and the drive ends have splayed out just a bit which has allowed the carrier to turn out from under the fork so the drive bushes (the raised bits) are no longer resting on the fork.

3. the fork is bent.

[abaddonxi]

Didn't replace the fork, all I was doing was replacing the slave cylinder.

I guess I'm looking for things that I can do to check what's gone wrong before taking the gearbox off, something I really don't want to do.

Clutch was replaced about two years ago, think that new fork went in then, but not positive.

Cheers
Simon

[rick130]

the fork 'shouldn't' come off the pivot, as it's clipped to it in much the same way (using a metal clip) as the pushrod is to the fork.

In my experience, if the pedal goes rock hard, it usually means the pivot is punching through the fork and jamming............:(

[abaddonxi]

Had another look, fished the fork forward with a coathanger, it's flopping about all over the place, so I'm guessing something has come adrift.

So, what do I do now?

Or, what do I need to get and how long is it going to take me, taking into consideration that my workshop is on the side of the road.

Cheers
Simon

[rick130]

:eek:

Sounds like the fork has come off the pivot ball. (or the pivot has broken or fallen off )
Damned if I know how you'll get it back on without moving the bellhousing/gearbox/t-case backwards.........

Are your clutchless gearchanges up to scratch ?? :p

Can you get a small mirror in to see what is where ?

[abaddonxi]

Clutchless gear changes.

I'm just trying to work out how to reverse park without a clutch.

Maybe not.

1. Now, need advice, how do I best support the gearbox and tcase while I shift it back?

Plan is to split them and pull gearbox back so I can get at clutch fork, I'm halfway through - got distracted by a fella coming off his motorbike towards me while I was underneath.:eek: He wasn't hurt too badly.

2. Do I need to support the engine? Somewhere I read that you need to put something under the engine to stop it from dropping forward when you take off the gearbox.

Cheers
Simon

[rick130]

Clutchless gear changes.

I'm just trying to work out how to reverse park without a clutch.

Maybe not.

1. Now, need advice, how do I best support the gearbox and tcase while I shift it back?

Plan is to split them and pull gearbox back so I can get at clutch fork, I'm halfway through - got distracted by a fella coming off his motorbike towards me while I was underneath.:eek: He wasn't hurt too badly.

2. Do I need to support the engine? Somewhere I read that you need to put something under the engine to stop it from dropping forward when you take off the gearbox.

Cheers
Simon


from memory I think you're right, have to support the front of the engine.

It's definitely easier to split the t/case and gearbox to manoeuvre without a transmission stand (or a hoist or pit) when doing it by yourself, but you'll need guide rods to get the t/case back onto the g/box without damaging the seal. The couple I made are around 200-210mm long. Look like 3/8 UNC, but could be 10mm ? (pitch gauge is in the car ) Cut the heads of bolts off, grind a slight taper and cut a slot in them so they can be screwed out once the t/case is in place, oh, and don't lose the dowels between the t/case and g/box.
Also have to disconnect the t/case lever assy if you haven't already done so and watch out for the little nylon top hat section bushes, they are easy to lose.

<edit> the locating pins/bolts are 10mm.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Isnt there someone else in the Kingdom to give you a hand?
:mad:

[abaddonxi]

The slaves are revolting!
The slaves are revolting!

Finally got it done.

:eek:

Last time I got under the car there was a motorcycle accident through the intersection on which I parked the Land Rover. The young fella, unhurt except for cuts and bruises, came off the bike coming into the intersection, the bike went one way and into a parked car, the boy went the other way.

I was lucky that I was parked on the side of the road opposite the parked car that the motorbike ran into.

Somehow, I lost some enthusiasm for crawling under the car.

And its been damp.

I finally got my courage up and split the gearbox from the engine.

Idiot error, the clutch fork pivot pin had come out its socket. I replaced the fork anyway, the old one was starting to deform and had a tiny crack in it.

I also replaced the bearing, the old one was, well not thrashed, but getting sloppy.

Now what exactly did the mechanic replace when he did the clutch less than 10k ago?

Cheers
Simon

[rick130]

<snip>
Now what exactly did the mechanic replace when he did the clutch less than 10k ago?

Cheers
Simon

your cash, from your wallet to his ;)

[Pedro_The_Swift]

not his conscience either,,,

[abaddonxi]

Mechanic did say at the time that he replaced either the fork or the throw out bearing, and not the other.

I'm thinking that the wear on the fork might have been operator error.:angel: The clip on the back looks much too clean and shiny for a part of my Land Rover.

And the throw out bearing was of the older type.

Now, what about the wear on the fingers?

Cheers
Simon

[abaddonxi]

Some pics.


Old clutch fork and bearing

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/07/1197.jpg


Old fork, that clip looks quite clean.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/07/1198.jpg


You can't see how it is getting pointy at the crack.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/07/1199.jpg


Can't really see the wear, should I be worried?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/07/1200.jpg



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/07/1201.jpg


Many, many jacks below.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/06/330.jpg


Cheers
Simon

[Sprint]

just imagine trying that in a tojo!