New Defender Rear Clunk

[CapeLandy]

Our new defender has developed a clunk from the rear.
Sounds like back left but not entirely sure.
Seems most prominent when taking off in 1’st after having been in reverse but sometime on gear change as well.
I jacked up the rear left and noted the backlash on the prop is about 3 to 4 mm at the flange.
Is this too much on a new diff?
My 109” has a lot more but the noise from drive train hides any clucking.
I also was wondering why my rear diff has so much rubber type gasket material on the front end. Do any of you have this on the new defender?
See attached pic and video.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/Landy1973/Rear%20Prop/th_MVI_1195.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v427/Landy1973/Rear%20Prop/?action=view&current=MVI_1195.flv)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/Landy1973/Rear%20Prop/IMG_1194.jpg

[Slunnie]

I think the apprentice must have done that one. Don't they use washers anymore?

[Blknight.aus]

the play in your prop shaft is about nominal.
the excess gasket goop is normalish it just means that it didnt get trimmed properly after assembley gaskets and landrovers are generally not the best of bed fellows

Id suggest that the clunk your hearing on take off is probabley a rear suspension bush or the ball joint Id be going "warrenty, safety issue"

[CapeLandy]

Thanks Dave

Would a suspension clunk not be a bit soon for rubbers to be worn down?
I will check tmrw with a crow bar if I can.
Any other way to check suspension parts for wear.
We did hit the tow bar and arms a good fey times already - they are far too low for my liking and I am going to remove the arms tmrw and put the tow plate higher up because I tow so seldom it would be easier to lower and refit arms when need arises.

[Blknight.aus]

yep if itssuspension its way to early for it to be clunking especially if its teh aframe ball joint.

to check that have someone you trust stand behind the vehcile while you lay under it with the park brake on hard and have them shove the vehicle backwards and forwards. Put you hand on the A frame and if its that you'll feel it or see it jogging at the joint on the top of the diff.

[JDNSW]

Further to Dave's suggestions - in a new vehicle it is more likely to be something loose not worn. Prime candidates would be the A-frame attachments both axle and chassis, and the front end of the lower link (the big nut). But follow his suggested procedure and look for the movement.

Could also be the handbrake dragging, either because it is not releasing properly or it has oil on the shoes. (This means the inevitable slack is not free when drive is changed from forward to reverse or vice versa)

[Xavie]

I wouldn't worry to much as they seem to be pretty good about warranty work. And it sounds like it should be covered by that with out any hesitation.
The only drama may be the distance for you to drop it off at the service center?

Just don't go playing with it all yourself because then they might end up cranky.

Xav

[CapeLandy]

I decided instead of using the method of pulling and pushing in the driveway, I used the "submerge in stinking water and pull with rope and TD5" method.:)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/Landy1973/Rear%20Prop/IMG_1197.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/Landy1973/Rear%20Prop/IMG_5302.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/Landy1973/Rear%20Prop/IMG_5301.jpg

And by the way, TC dosn't work when all four wheels are spinning.

[lokka]

With what you have mentioned above id be looking at the drive flange on the back left hand side how long have you owned the truck and how many K's has it done i know of a TD5 fender with less than 100K on it and its needing its second set of drive flanges now as it has a similar clunk you speak of ..

Tho the other sugestions are also on the money for clunks with what you posted id be betting its the drive flange on the back left as its normaly the first driven rear wheel fllowing the front right with a full time 4wd set up ...

[CapeLandy]

The van whent to the dealers yesterday and they spent half a day and called to say they tightened the suspension bolts and problem solved.
Collected a nice clean vehicle with self same "Clunk" still there:(

I am thinking of taking her to a reputable "non LR" garage to diagnose the fault and then take it back to LR with exact location of problem and recomended repair.
Hope that someone is willing just to give a paid diagnosis.
Let's wait and see.

[CapeLandy]

second time lucky.
First day they found the handbreak was rubbing so they checked and re-set that but when I tested the clunk was still there.
I told em to keep it till they find it.
Second day they sorted the clunk with so called locktight on the drive flange splines.
I am sure it was not that simple but the clunk is definately gone so who cares.
:D