Rust... what to do (and Hi)

[TeZZaP]

Hi All

I'm just starting a reno project on a Series 3 SWB; its currently been stripped down to chassis with engine/most running gear in place, all body panels have been stripped off it by the guy I'm buying it from. The chassis looks to be rust free, straight and only requires a couple small patches. The engine/gearbox etc look OK, but who knows! The various bits and pieces of body seem to vary; most look pretty good with minor rust in the usual places, very few dents. I'm going to be moving the bulk to my place this week, just need to hire a trailer-car transporter, but I already have a few bits-and-pieces that fitted in my trailer, so obviously I've started on what I have... Its been a few years since I got my hands dirty, and I've never taken on a landie rebuild before; I've owned a few series IIs' and IIas' over the time, which obviously needed maintaining. And I've rebuilt a Suzuki Jeep from the ground up, so I'm hopeful that I know what I've let myself in for! I also know I'm going to need lots a advice and pointers; I can't guarentee I'll take any notice, but all advice is received gratefully!

So, my first question is about what's an exceptable level of rust to most people here... would you bother to patch this, or just rust inhibit/convert? I was thinking of welding, possible even peeling off the skin and replacing the bottom section (as has been mentioned in another thread with 25 mm sq onto 3 mm flat to make it look like the original structure) and then popping the skin back...

Tar

TeZZa

[Blknight.aus]

rust bad...

mark out where it is in your mind and as soon as you see some hit it with fishoil engine oil or anything else to get it slowed down. Then workout how your going to fix it, bog is not your friend here...

the words grinder gas axe and welder should be bouncing out of every nuron you own in relation to the primary tools you will be using to cure the problem with rivets, kill rust paint, rustop and repaint following close behind.

[JDNSW]

..............
So, my first question is about what's an exceptable level of rust to most people here... would you bother to patch this, or just rust inhibit/convert? I was thinking of welding, possible even peeling off the skin and replacing the bottom section (as has been mentioned in another thread with 25 mm sq onto 3 mm flat to make it look like the original structure) and then popping the skin back...

Tar

TeZZa

I'd be replacing the bottom rail of that door. Note that you can get the proper section from at least some suppliers (e.g. Four Wheel Drives in Melbourne list it in their catalogue).

John

[TeZZaP]

Thanks guys, my gut reaction was 'rust bad', but then I have been told that I'm way too fussy sometimes... pedantic was the word they called me!

I was thinking along the lines of welding new bits in, but I didn't realise you could actually buy the bottom rail. On a side note; could I cut out the damaged bits and weld new bits in with the door skin still in place, or would the heat affect the skin?

[isuzurover]

I had similar rust in the doors when rebuilt my IIA. IMO it doesn't look bad enough to replace the whole channel (I didn't).

I just cut the rusty sections out, fabricated some repair sections, and mig welded them in. Before I did it though, I removed the door skins, and got them galvanised after repairing them (along with a heap of other bits).

[TeZZaP]

Was it hard removing the door skins?

[isuzurover]

Was it hard removing the door skins?

Not very hard. You need to take it easy and do a bit at a time, so you don't stretch the Al. Use a bar/chisel/broad screwdriver to lift up the folded edge, but only do a few mm at a time, along the whole length. Then repeat over and over until you have lifted the fold fully.