''A'' frame ball joint

[PAT303]

I checked the BJ this arvo and it's U/S,it's a standard LR one and only lasted 18 months.I would like to try an adjustable one but I don't know anyone that has one.So has someone got one or is there a better brand,model to use?.I would like a greasable one to if they make them.Thanks Pat

[V8Landy]

I think LRA do them but there website is down.Cheers Brett
http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/23.html

Ph.03 94644094

[vnx205]

This was my experience with an adjustable one from Four Wheel Drives.
This is the "before" photo. The "after" photo is no longer available.
It is still working as intended. I have adjusted it twice since then.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/34813-ball-joint-modification.html#post496748

[350RRC]

Hi,

LRA still have them. Bought one there about 10 days ago.

DL

[Rosco]

So gents ?

Is there an easy way to tell if the joint is RS. I've got a nice solid "clunk" emanating from the rear end, usually when I take off and then from 1 to 2, after which it's not so noticeable. I read here about attacking it with a tyre lever or similar, but haven't quite figured out actually how to attack it.

Cheers

[Blknight.aus]

Ive found the simplest check is to lock up the handbrake then get under the vehicle put your hand on the aframe joint and have someone else rock the vehicle back and forth as hard as they can.

you'll feel it jump a little as it takes up slackif its stuffed. I dont think it will reveal if your only jsut getting the problem as you cant put enough torque onto it.

[rick130]

The ultimate version IMO was the Maxi one, adjustable, greasable and rebuildable.
There might still be an odd one in a parts place somewhere.

Bearmach do an adjustable version. I've seen it listed in the catalogue from my favourite wholesaler who cannot be mentioned.

[350RRC]

LRA's are adjustable and greaseable. Don't know if they are Maxi or not. About $170.

[350RRC]

Advantage of adjustables is the way you get them out.

I pull out the bracket that holds the joint and the Boge as 1 unit as I don't have anything to undo the Boge ball joint nuts. (I need the Boge to keep the HID's somewhat legal)

Unscrew the adjustable top and pull out the ball and nylon cups then make two cuts @ 180 using long Bosch jigsaw blades for metal through ball joint outer to bracket ID.

Ball joint outer falls out, rather than needing persuasion from 20t press.

[Rosco]

OK Heaps of info here, thanks fellas.

Now .......... how easy is it to replace the bludgers. Bearing in mind I only have minimal tools and only slightly more knowledge. Can it be done DIY, or do you need hoists and presses and a PHD ??

Cheers

[Landy110]

It's easy to do, the big thing is to make sure the vehicle can't move one inch!
Handbrake firmly applied, low range first gear, wheels chocked and if you've got them put chassis stands under the chassis rails. Why? Because when you remove the ball joint there is nothing to stop the diff assy rotating and dropping the whole car on top of you.
First, remove the split pin through the castle nut on the bottom of the ball joint ( you can see this looking up from behind the diff )
Second, release tension on the castle nut but don't completely remove.
Third, Undo and remove the two bolts that go through the ball joint carrier attaching it to the A frame.
You will then have two A frame arms seperated from the ball joint carrier. They won't fall and hit you on the head.
Then remove the castle nut and lift the ball joint out, this may require a tap or two from a hammer on the bottom of the ball joint thread.
The method I use to extract the old ball joint from the carrier is to invert the assy in a vice then using a hacksaw, not an angle grinder, you don't want to accidentally cut into the carrier that you have to re-use. Cut the wings off the old ball joint so the carrier can be rested in a press and the ball joint pushed out. I take this and the new ball joint to my mechanic and he does the pressing.
Then just bolt it back in and away you go.

[350RRC]

Hi Rosco,

By LRA I mean Les Richmond Automotive in case you didn't know. Thomastown, Melby.

DL

[PAT303]

Blknight.aus you are the cause of all this!!.I went around all the bolts and re-torqued them,the drivers side lower link bolt was finger tight???,and that just moved the load to the ball joint and sure enough checking your way there was movement.I will chase up the LRA one or I found a rose jointed model thats looks the goods but it's big $$$'s.I'm buying front cranked radius arms from the UK so I might get a BJ thrown in for a better price.The clutch release has been abit funny at times the last month so the slave might be on it's last legs,I don't mind that as it is the original from new but that would not be helping the driveline slap. Pat

[Waxenwane]

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