PDA

View Full Version : GQ Nissan Patrol Diffs into a Discovery



DaveS3
13th June 2008, 09:02 PM
Well, since I never seem to take an pictures of the stuff I have done - i thought that I would show all my patrol conversion to my 96 Discovery.
I am pretty much over Rover diffs and I can't understand spending money on something that will not suit me.
This car will be driven pretty hard and probably raced next year :twisted:
As I see it, the benefits outweigh the disadvantages (which is only one - loss of about 25mm ground clearance:o)
So you get - HEAPS bigger brakes, HEAPS stronger diffs, HEAPS stronger Axles, HEAPS bigger tail shafts, 6 Stud wheels which open up many more sizing and offset opportunities, 50mm track increase :twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted:

All of this will be done in my spare time, but should be completed by the end of June / early July. I've just started my exams at uni, so not much happening this week.

This will be a conversion that will be bolt in to the Disco chassis - no chassis welding required.
Will also be engineered....

Anyway, it all started by buying a set of Diffs - in this case I managed to but a set of 3.9 ratio GQ patrol axles for $450 with all control arms, steering arms and both tail shafts. Whilst I was initially planning to install 80s Land Cruiser Diffs, these came up at a price I couldn't refuse.
The Land Cruiser conversion would probably be better, but the front is much more difficult due to different control arm spacings and eyes instead of pins.
I am installing adjustable lower control arms with the rear centered diff so I can set the pinion and transfer case flanges parallel to suit my suspension set up.
The standard A Frame will be used as well.

The conversion will use altered GQ Tail shafts with adapter spacers at the transfer case as they are also huge compared to the Rover items.

I will get a steering arm & pan hard rod made professionally once is all done.

Whilst I have everything from under the car, I am going to also install 4" longer braided brake hoses I have, and also the EFS Extreme shocks (to suit 3" lifted Land Cruiser).
These are VERY similar in length to the LRA Bilstiens, but the rear shocks are Pin (top) and eye (bottom).
To fix this I am making different to shock mounts, then using the GQ lower mount to suit the pin in the correct location.

Here are the shocks
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/06/488.jpg

Shock next to a standard Disco item (they are soooo much bigger its not funny)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/06/489.jpg
Here are my new adjustable control arms next to a standard RR arm
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/06/490.jpg

Here is the GQ housing with the rear with all brackets removed
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/06/491.jpg

Brackets -
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/06/492.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/06/493.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/06/494.jpg


I started the other night and hope to have the rear diff set up tomorrow.

I will need new seals for the rear diff, new solid brake lines (which i will get made to suit disco lines) then also the small flexible hoses to the calipers.
I'll update this thread with pics when I've got time, but other wise i'll update it verbally.

Thats about it for the moment - I'm off to the pub :D

Cheers
Dave.

rovercare
13th June 2008, 09:13 PM
Who'd fit Nissota crap to a Rover, whats the point:mad:













And you want me to help with a rear bar:confused:

Looks like you got it sorted, good work:)

DaveS3
13th June 2008, 09:25 PM
Double post.

DaveS3
13th June 2008, 09:26 PM
Yep. I don't have a welder yet - but I can cut as much as I want :D

Going to a Glen Elliots house tomorrow with the bits to set it all up with his mig.

I'll speak to ya bout the bar later anyway...

Cheers
Dave.

DaveS3
7th August 2008, 05:32 PM
Well today I got a chance to have another look at the diffs.

I've been flat out finishing study and also with work, doing lots of traveling so haven't done a great deal since the first post.

Also been house sitting the previous month so not much I could do to the car.

I am about to go to the airport flying to Perth for 1.5 weeks for work - so having a day off to sort stuff out was in need.

So what did i do? Went to the workshop at work :mad: to get the guys to make some tail shaft spacers for me.

They will be a bit tricky, but should the job.

Any way, i'll see how they turned out when I get back.

Cheers
Dave.

DaveS3
29th December 2009, 09:13 PM
Well, however long later i'm half way there.

Started last week, just before christmas. Front diff is under the car, and all the rear is basically sorted, just need to get my mate to weld it up.

All in all, fairly easy just need to have someone on hand to weld.

I'll post up some pics soon.

Should be done, mid Jan.

Cheers
Dave.

DaveS3
4th February 2010, 10:41 AM
Well all the welding is done.

Front is in the car and sorted, just need to put in brake lines, weld up the panhard rod and get the steering arm made.

Rear needs to be cleaned, painted and assembled.

All there is to do is have a rear solid brake line made, rear driveshaft, play with bumpstops and that is it!

Cheers
Dave.

cal415
4th February 2010, 11:07 AM
Whats that old favorite saying on here???


It didnt happen without pics??

DaveS3
4th February 2010, 01:22 PM
Pics are waiting to be loaded on the computer all in due course.

Dave.

DaveS3
5th February 2010, 02:18 PM
Couple of Pics

Diff guard -
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/02/1487.jpg

Front in -
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/02/1488.jpg

Rear A-frame tacked -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/02/1489.jpg
A Frame mount -
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/02/1490.jpg

Rear Diff -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/02/1491.jpg

Skiboy
5th February 2010, 02:24 PM
Well done Dave to post here

We have a project with Nissan diffs on a RRC chassis (all installed) and currently building a Defender body to then take into comp work so sympathetic to your design ideas

One thing I do know is that you get drive line vibration due to the off set from transfer case to the centre diff in the rear - how are you going to address that? Would Love to know as we are yet to solve that

Skiboy

DaveS3
5th February 2010, 02:54 PM
I'm hoping that with the combination of a nissan drive shaft, adjustable rear control arms and a correctly set pinion angle, it should all work :angel:

Dave

Bush65
5th February 2010, 04:32 PM
I'm hoping that with the combination of a nissan drive shaft, adjustable rear control arms and a correctly set pinion angle, it should all work :angel:

Dave
You should be right using the nissan drive shaft.

Camo
5th February 2010, 05:10 PM
I'm hoping that with the combination of a nissan drive shaft, adjustable rear control arms and a correctly set pinion angle, it should all work :angel:

Dave

I tried the GQ rear.. worked ok but the vibes made me go insane.. tried DC shaft and still didn't work. But will suit offroad comp.. but crap on the highway.. reason why i ripped out the GQ rear and put LC in..

All fun and games

Camo

DaveS3
6th February 2010, 01:03 PM
Yeap fun and games alright.

I'll just see how it goes... I pick up my ute soon as a work car so it's now not an everyday driver.

Cheers
Dave

DaveS3
22nd March 2010, 04:45 PM
Well it drives.

Needed a new exhaust system as the drive shaft wanted to go through the pipes as well as the rear drive shaft.

Pick up the rear driev shaft tomorrow.

Chirps 35"simex when braking with not much pedal, so looks like i have good brakes.

Otherwise much the same car as before, just taller...

Testing this weekend.

Dave

Skiboy
22nd March 2010, 05:01 PM
Dave - Will be interested to see your comments and issues/fixes after the test drive. We are getting close on our similar set up - finalizing some mounts prior to engine going in.

Anyway I was interested in your post re the rear control arms - you have the Nissan adjustable ones right - so can I ask how you made the chassis end of these attach to the truck? Did you fab something?

I have reinforced rover rear arms but there is no adjustment to be able to tweak the diff rotation/pinion angle. Hence looking at options.

Skiboy

DaveS3
22nd March 2010, 07:36 PM
I have snake adjustable ones.
I just made adaptors to the disco chasis mounts.

It works but i'm debating whether to cut the chasis and weld nissan mounts on.

Anyway, i really need to get this driveshaft and soem 31At's and drive it round for a week or so to suss the new noises.

Cheers
Dave

Skiboy
22nd March 2010, 10:14 PM
OK re the mounts - I was considering making some with rose joints at the chassis end so that have thread to adjust on. Then I saw your post using the Nissan arms.

Sure hope you post pointers on the sort out process as we will have to follow you down this track.

Re diff rotation - I take it you have tried to get the face of the pinion flange pointing directly at the back of the transfer case?

Are you now running just a Nissan tail shaft or do you have a double cadian joint?

Skiboy

DaveS3
23rd March 2010, 07:52 AM
I've tried to set it up so the pinion flange and TC flange are parrallel.
The adjustable arms should get me to be about right.

Drive shaft is being made at the moment, it's a tricky one due to the size of the nissan uni's.
I'll post more details of how it was made when i know!!!!

Its all a learning process.
I expect i'll have to do a bit more to make it all work properly.

Dave

TJS-70Y
23rd March 2010, 03:35 PM
When i put nissans into my 2 door Rangie I used a Nissan bush in place of the A frame ball joint. This was threaded so it could be adjusted in/out so the pinion angle could be set. I also lengthened the wheelbase to compensate the lift. I think it ended up at 101 inches.

Thomas

DaveS3
26th March 2010, 07:15 AM
Well I've been driving it around for a bit now.
Starting to gain confidence in the car.
Feels good. Most of the vibes i had were coming from the simex, now it's got road tyres on the rear only vibes a tiny but without the pinion angle adjusted yet.

making a noise from the transfer though, and the brakes ar still a bit spongey.


Bit of work to do on saturday, then go for a drive to Round 1.

Dave

DaveS3
29th March 2010, 04:28 PM
Car still drives, I'm gaining far more confidence in it now.

I went for a spin on some localish tracks the other day, can seemed to hold up well, just need to sort our the rear drive shaft tomorrow then all the issues should be sorted.

I need to do something about my rear springs, as they aren't re-seating after dislocating (i can get them to dislocate about 200mm)

I'll try tying them in to start with, and see how that goes.
Dave

DaveS3
6th April 2010, 10:59 AM
Spent easter down in the Otways, and did a few day trips around some of the more difficult tracks.

I've done about 1500k's in it since the GQ stuff is in.
Glad to report no real problems with the conversion, everything seem to be going well.

I do need another inch lift in the front, to sort our these bumpstops.
The car copped a flogging, as i was basically designated the recocvery vehicle, and all went well.

I've got some pics, so I'll post them up later.

Cheers
Dave

Skiboy
6th April 2010, 01:56 PM
Looking forward to seeing the pics

Any from under the car to show the set up?
In particular the mounts for the rear control arms and diff angle

Thanks
Skiboy

Skiboy
21st May 2010, 09:26 AM
Dave how did you route your exhaust on the right hand side of the car? Did you go between the prop shaft and the oil pan?

On mine the prob shaft looks like it will be too close to the chassis rail to route that way so wondered how you solved this one.

Any pics?

Thanks in advance
Keith

DaveS3
29th May 2010, 12:39 PM
The exhaust goes close to the chassis just below the starter.

Its tight but it fits.
BTW, the propshaft just touches the cross member too.

Car currently has a dead transfer case, so i've got to fix that.

Dave.

Duffman
30th May 2010, 02:41 PM
hi i would like to here how you went with this set up dose it vibrate a lot or is it ok. i bet the brakes are a lot better.
have been a reading a lot about doing this as i would like to do it to my disco.

Skiboy
31st May 2010, 11:26 AM
The exhaust goes close to the chassis just below the starter.

Its tight but it fits.
BTW, the propshaft just touches the cross member too.

Car currently has a dead transfer case, so I've got to fix that.

Dave.
No good re TC Dave. Thanks re exhaust.
We remade the cross member with smaller box section - or could notch it I guess. So our cross member is OK.
My main problem is the extractors (peacemaker) are too close to the propshaft so will have to get them altered.

So can I double check - you adjusted your pinion to be parallel to your TC output flange (the brake drum) then had the Nissan tail shaft shortened/lengthened to fit.

No Double Cardan joints?

Did you have to have an adapter plate for the TC end?
Any chance of any pics from under the car?
Skiboy

Duffman
31st May 2010, 04:54 PM
dubble post.

DaveS3
1st June 2010, 07:55 AM
When i'm home next i'll try grab some pics.

I'm just running standard headers, so thats the difference. I could imagine that the extractors would be an issue.

I used the large uni nissan driveshaft with a custom flange at the TC end and had it shortened to suit.

I believe that there is a transfer uni available to suit the smaller nissan shaft, which couples to an off the shelf flange that fits the standard rover uni.

Flanges are as parrallel as i can get them.

Seems to work ok, there are a few vibes but nothing horrible.

Dave

Vern
18th September 2010, 09:17 PM
Dave did you think about flipping the rear housing over 180, will have to spin the pan, and probably re drill the diff studs, but you should be able to offset that pinion closer to the right then (leave the centre in its correct position, just flip the housing(if it'll work))

mopar
12th November 2010, 08:09 AM
vern, i thought about that after i had already welded my mounts on, if you flip the centre you then have a reverse rotation diff so have to flip the housing to correct (therefore you end up twice as far to the side which is better. looks like you would have to sort the mounting studs and the pan as you said, but would be an easier option than lc in my opinion

Skiboy
12th November 2010, 09:44 AM
Can I ask for clarification here?

Are you suggesting turning the diff centre upside down then turning the housing front to back and side to side.

If so then this would mean (before pans are cut etc) that the hole for the diff would be facing the right rear side of the car when it started facing the front left side - is that correct?

I have a LSD GQ installed but yet to get it driving - will be on road about Xmas or Jan latest. If I don't like it then I have another GQ axle and diff that I might try this option with - if I can get it clear what is involved.
Thanks
SKiboy

DaveS3
12th November 2010, 09:56 AM
No didn't bother, the offset gain is so little that i doubt it would be worth it.

Skiboy, the diff centre remains in the same orientation before, but the diff housing is flipped 180 degrees (ie the lh axle is now the rh axle and so on). Because of the housing is flipped, the diff pan is now on the wrong side for the crown wheel gear,so it needs to be cut off then re welded to suit. The studs need to be redrillled to suit the new position of the diff centre relative to the housing, and the housing needs to be clearanced to suit the crown wheel gear.

Cheers, Dave.

Skiboy
12th November 2010, 10:00 AM
Thanks Dave

Now I follow - so this gives a slight off set but a higher pinion - so reduced the pinion angle a little but main advantage is that it would help in terms of knocking the pinion in the rough so has merits.
Skiboy

mopar
12th November 2010, 03:05 PM
no the pinion height stays the same but it is ofset to the right, its a different way of changing left and right axle tubes essentially, front centre is the way to go high pinion. flipping the housing/centre or changing axle tubes will give you a few inches, i did not realise the housing needs clearancing, maybe internally laminating and changing axles and tubes left to right is the way to go

DaveS3
12th November 2010, 04:36 PM
no the pinion height stays the same but it is ofset to the right, its a different way of changing left and right axle tubes essentially, front centre is the way to go high pinion. flipping the housing/centre or changing axle tubes will give you a few inches, i did not realise the housing needs clearancing, maybe internally laminating and changing axles and tubes left to right is the way to go

The clearancing is minor.
Still much easier than swapping tubes IMO.
The only thing is that the brackets that ok the GW housings will be upside down, so brakes will be upside down??

Dave.

Vern
12th November 2010, 07:15 PM
I meant spin the housing over 180 but leave the centre where it is, therfore you would have to re do studs, pan and may'be brake brackets. Should be able to reuse axles, will put the pinion over about 90mm.
Anyway it was all to hard for me so bought a rear disc sals and am building a front sals to go in it.:D

mopar
12th November 2010, 09:40 PM
were on the same track a vern, but the more i think about it the more i think that cutting and shutting the tubes might be easier, provided you wanted the extra strength of internal laminating (smaller tube pressed into outer axle tube) then you would just have to cut both axle tubes an equal distance from the centre and machine up the internal sleeve then press and weld together

Vern
13th November 2010, 08:46 AM
thats it! thats basically the plan with the front sals, just need to get a weekend to sit down with Matt and start cutting one up:)

mopar
13th November 2010, 08:52 AM
thats it! thats basically the plan with the front sals, just need to get a weekend to sit down with Matt and start cutting one up:)
whats the plan with the sals, rear sals with custom shafts and what unis?

Vern
14th November 2010, 09:13 AM
no real plan yet, just make a rear sals work in the front, using county swivels and custom axles. I here that Drew has ordered one from the uk, so if we haven't started building it, we can atleast use it for a template:)

mopar
14th November 2010, 08:20 PM
if your going to use custom axles why not go d60 knuckles

Vern
15th November 2010, 05:45 PM
cause we got county swivels:D, and that would be just something else we'd have to make fit, trying to keep it simple:)

mopar
9th February 2011, 08:42 AM
for those doing the patrol axle conversion you can buy an off the shhelf adaptor flange 1310 to nissan, think i might need to space the front diff slighly forwards (front shaft might be a bit long not sure yet) but thats an off the shelf item too, other than that the rear shaft is correct length (i think, still waiting on the bits to arrive to confirm) so it looks like it will all be bolt up

Skiboy
9th February 2011, 09:30 AM
Hey mopar does that mean you can gte a landrover bolt pattern flange for a nissan diff?

Skiboy

clubagreenie
9th February 2011, 12:00 PM
How about a nissan pattern to LR tfr for the D2's (esp front). I'd put up a hand.

mopar
9th February 2011, 03:28 PM
Hey mopar does that mean you can gte a landrover bolt pattern flange for a nissan diff?

Skiboy

you might be able to but no i mean nissan bolt pattern for rover tailshaft

mopar
9th February 2011, 03:32 PM
How about a nissan pattern to LR tfr for the D2's (esp front). I'd put up a hand.

i dont know much about d2's.
its probably a lot easier to find the bits to go 1310 series but you might be able to find something to use the nissan shaft

mopar
9th February 2011, 03:50 PM
Parts (http://www.drive-lines.com/parts1.php?pn=2-2-1949)

Skiboy
9th February 2011, 03:57 PM
Ok I follow - this would be the flange that attached to the universal

I have gone the other way and had the Nissan flange on thee diff machined and drilled for a rover pattern.

Skiboy

clubagreenie
9th February 2011, 10:24 PM
Sorry to sound like a noob but what is a 1310?

Was looking for a stronger/better front shaft option so use a whole std other (nissan?) shaft and make new flanges or adaptors to replace/adapt the LR tfr and diff flanges.

slug_burner
9th February 2011, 10:38 PM
Sorry to sound like a noob but what is a 1310?

Was looking for a stronger/better front shaft option so use a whole std other (nissan?) shaft and make new flanges or adaptors to replace/adapt the LR tfr and diff flanges.

1310 is the series of universal joints and respective flanges, these are used on LRs and other vehicles I am pretty certain ford falcons use them. Do a little google on 1310 series universal joints and you should get all the dimensional details. Here is an image of one, it is the dimensions that set it apart there are bigger ones used by heavier vehicles.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/980.jpg

mopar
10th February 2011, 08:06 AM
Sorry to sound like a noob but what is a 1310?

Was looking for a stronger/better front shaft option so use a whole std other (nissan?) shaft and make new flanges or adaptors to replace/adapt the LR tfr and diff flanges.

1310 is the most common u joint ever made, which means theyre cheaper, theres a bigger range and you can adapt to more things, any particular reason you want to go bigger? or are you running at realy severe angles. on the front you could easily get a double cardan for the shaft if 1310 but it means custom length shaft, but arent d2 a double cardan anyway?

mopar
10th February 2011, 08:08 AM
i should add here that its only the pre 86 rovers that have 1310 series shafts as far as i know, mines an 84

clubagreenie
10th February 2011, 09:15 AM
Running +2" and not massive tyres (245/70/16) but just want to to defeat the D2 shaft issues. Already moved to a/c drain.

To go 1310 do I need to build a custom shaft? Or is there a early fnt shaft from something else to suit that is right length (long shot or longer to cut down that still is DCard?

mopar
10th February 2011, 09:53 AM
Running +2" and not massive tyres (245/70/16) but just want to to defeat the D2 shaft issues. Already moved to a/c drain.

To go 1310 do I need to build a custom shaft? Or is there a early fnt shaft from something else to suit that is right length (long shot or longer to cut down that still is DCard?

you would have to get out the tape measure, but if you can get a shaft made for anything, but if you have a double cardan one end then you will have to keep a double cardan on one end unless you alter your driveline angles

clubagreenie
10th February 2011, 12:31 PM
Well angles have only gotten slightly steeper with the lift. Could you double card it at both ends? Benefits/losses?

But from what I can find a 1310 isn't std for a D2 but possibly stronger versions for the same size available.

Skiboy
10th February 2011, 12:40 PM
Clubagreenie - you have a D2 I take it?

One of our club members very recently sourced a D2 ready made shaft with upgraded greasable DC joint made by Tom Woods (see his site in the US - this guys knows shafts!) and available from JeepKonection: For all your JK & TJ accessry requirements and parts (http://www.jeepkonection.com.au) in Melb - have to call and ask them.

Club member site with D2 who bought this is at http://www.aulro.com/afvb/gclro-members-rides/117638-samanthas-d2a-9.html

I think he paid about $600 odd for a ready made D2 specific shaft.
Unless you modify your current D2 shaft with after market bits this is the next most cost effective solution.

Skiboy

mopar
10th February 2011, 02:38 PM
Well angles have only gotten slightly steeper with the lift. Could you double card it at both ends? Benefits/losses?

But from what I can find a 1310 isn't std for a D2 but possibly stronger versions for the same size available.

double cardan joints are longer therefore shortening your shaft and increasing the angle the driveshaft runs at, your diff pinion will be pointing at the same angle as your shaft anyway so it will serve no benefit

slug_burner
10th February 2011, 10:21 PM
here is one with two double cardan joints

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/949.jpg


as per the tom woods site (http://www.4xshaft.com/)

mopar
20th August 2012, 10:27 PM
whats everyone done for brake lines? blanked one of the rover ones and used the other?