View Full Version : Qt Services A frame joint
Mudhog1974classic
17th June 2008, 07:22 PM
Hi Guy's,
Has anyone fitted one of Qt services A frame Rose joints? How are you finding it? Has it made a difference to the articulation?Was it easy to fit? Where did you get it from?
Brett
lokka
20th October 2008, 10:03 PM
Good question brett i was told tonight that QT rear arms are available here in AU for $440 a set but do ya think i can find anyone here selling them i thinks i was told some porkies :twisted::twisted::twisted:
Psimpson7
20th October 2008, 10:12 PM
I have seen a couple of comments somewhere from people concerned with the loads applied to a rose joint in the way that it would work as an A frame Joint.
I would be tempted to just buy this
X-eng High Performance Off-Road Engineering (http://www.x-eng.co.uk/X-Ball.asp)
Cheers
Pete
rovercare
20th October 2008, 10:13 PM
Hi Guy's,
Has anyone fitted one of Qt services A frame Rose joints? How are you finding it? Has it made a difference to the articulation?Was it easy to fit? Where did you get it from?
Brett
It was to close to $500 beer tickets, for me to contemplate trying:eek:
TimNZ
21st October 2008, 10:07 AM
Hi Brett, the Classic Rangie has far too much axle articulation in standard form! I think you should fit sway bars to reduce it a bit! :tease:
(This comment has nothing to do with the fact that my Defender has been shown up by classic rangies)
Cheers,
Tim
discowhite
21st October 2008, 03:45 PM
if, you were gonna fit one you would have to fit rose joints to the trailing arm chassis end to get the full amount of movement out of it.
unless its a comp/crawler i think youde be wasitng your money.
you can get plenty of flex from an LR rear end (coils) its the front end that need looking at.
cheers phil
Grimace
21st October 2008, 03:46 PM
I have seen a couple of comments somewhere from people concerned with the loads applied to a rose joint in the way that it would work as an A frame Joint.
I would be tempted to just buy this
X-eng High Performance Off-Road Engineering (http://www.x-eng.co.uk/X-Ball.asp)
Cheers
Pete
This is the path I would be goin, I am yet to see many people setup there rangies so as to reach the maximum travel of the standard ball joint.
I have found a maxi drive adjustable or this X-A joint to be the best option.
p.s. forgot to add that paddock spares also have a good adjustable ball join that is the best value!
Merv
21st October 2008, 04:00 PM
We have fitted one to our RRC, we also fitted longer trailing arms from Gigglepin. The flex is awesome. We have only competed once with the setup so I cant comment on longevity.
sclarke
21st October 2008, 08:33 PM
Rovercraft sell QT
Slunnie
21st October 2008, 09:06 PM
I have seen a couple of comments somewhere from people concerned with the loads applied to a rose joint in the way that it would work as an A frame Joint.
I would be tempted to just buy this
X-eng High Performance Off-Road Engineering (http://www.x-eng.co.uk/X-Ball.asp)
Cheers
Pete
For a rose joint, it should be setup like this as it loads the ball joint properly:
http://members.cox.net/joelgross/id5_files/image021.jpg
The real problem though, is that rose joints are designed to be strong in a push/pull environment. They are not necessarily strong with any sideway loading which you will get in an A-frame irrespective of the orientation of the joint, as the thread with a side loading on it acts as a stress concentrator and will cause the joint to eventually snap off. I've seen this even happen on a panhard with a ball joint where the load was not carried directly down through the bolt line of the joint - prob about 15 degrees offset. The lock nut on the threaded section of the rose joint will help with the lateral strength if done up tight and the rose joint is wound all the way in, but it does not fix the problem.
If it was my car, I would NOT ever use a ball joint in the A-frame at all.
hook
5th November 2008, 11:37 PM
With 3 inch of lift in the rear of my D1
I kepted eating rear unies.
This is what I have used to fix the problem.
rte product page (http://www.rovertym.com/aarm.htm)
But now I have to re-aline the bottem spring mounts :mad:
and I want new trailing arms.
Can't just change one thing.:twisted:
mark2
6th November 2008, 08:57 AM
Shock length is the first factor in determining rear flex (I realise you may have already modified your shocks/mounts, hence the reason for considering these joints)
Putting it another way, theres no point in doing anything else until longer shocks are fitted.
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