general Guidance / opinions

[4range]

G'day All,

I am about to purchase a RR Classic 87'.

Its a 3.9 duel fuel conversion with 70k on the motor & transmission, from new.

I have suspicions about the diffs & the A frame ball joint & am thinking that I would like to have some work done to : -

- rebuild / replace the diffs
- install 31" x 10's tyres - or similar
- Spring lift ( to suit tyres )

I will be using the vehicle as a daily driver but want the flexibility to tackle some of the slightly more challenging tracks ( hence the tyres & Lift).

Importantly, this will also be my primary tow vehicle & will need to be well behaved when towing the boat.

Of course I'd like to complete the whole package for about $10.00 As Well !!!

Can the brains trust offer me their opinions & experience in terms of whether or not my grand dreams are realistically achievable (I recognise that I might need to spend a little more than $10.00!)

What are the likely traps.? (eg. cutting guards, castor correction)

What is it likely to cost to have someone do the diffs for me ?

Should I be looking at any particular spec's for the diffs ?

are there any requirements to strengthen the drive shafts, uni joints etc?

I will need to undertake the project a little at a time (financial constraints !) what order should I get the work done to be Practical ?

are there other questions that I should be asking ?

Any opinions will be duly considered and all guidance accepted in good grace !


thanks

[spudboy]

Can't help with the diff/tyre questions, but just a comment that if it is an '87 it will be a 3.5 and not a 3.9 (unless it ihas been re-engined of course). I think the 3.9s came in in '89 or '90.

[mike 90 RR]

G'day All,

I am about to purchase a RR Classic 87'.

Its a 3.9 duel fuel conversion with 70k on the motor & transmission, from new.

I have suspicions about the diffs & the A frame ball joint & am thinking that I would like to have some work done to : -

- rebuild / replace the diffs
- install 31" x 10's tyres - or similar
- Spring lift ( to suit tyres )

I will be using the vehicle as a daily driver but want the flexibility to tackle some of the slightly more challenging tracks ( hence the tyres & Lift).

Importantly, this will also be my primary tow vehicle & will need to be well behaved when towing the boat.


Hi 4range

Is this right?? ... you found a 1987 RRC with only 70.000 K's on the clock
If so .. it's practically brand new!!!!! (You luckyyyyyyy bug###) :p

To answer the Diff / Suspention Q .... What type / weight is the boat???
And is it Auto or manual

[cmurray]

If the diffs need looking at, then I would upgrade them to diff locks and stronger axles, and this would be the first thing I would do, as this is a cost prevention measure as I see it, as it will save you having to replace broken diffs and axles as you start to do harder four wheel driving with larger tyres.

As for tyres, well that's a bottomless can of worms, as tyres are a matter of opinion, and depends on what sort of tracks you intend to do. Personally, I would be going for 235x85R16(32") or 255x85R16's(33"). As 10 years ago 31x10.5x16's were too small. I'm not sure how much lift or guard trimming you need to do for these tyres. But rather than spring lifting to make the tyres fit, you would be better off body lifting, as you keep the centre of gravity low, and you don't run into the caster issues, and on a rangie, it's fairly easy to do.

[Rangier Rover]

If the diffs are sus it will have over 200000 kms on it;) They break at 70000 before wear out. The clunk is often A frame ball joint. Also check the bushes in rear arms. The center Diff in LT230 can have a bit of back lash as well. Put hand brake on and shift foward to reverse if it still clunks it may be in transfer box or out put shaft of trany.
I would not bother with 10 spline RR diffs. Cost same or less to stick 24 spline disco. Or Air locker/Truetrack/ Hi Tuff axles etc. Depends how hard you charge off road.:D
If you want to tow with it bigger tyres will hinder it and will need 4.11 Cwps:eek:

2.5' body lift /Flares/ 4.11 cwps/ Lockers 24 spline axles and 33" tyres go very well .:angel:

PM Rovercare, he may have some Dico diffs and shafts to get you going. If you cant find some. Stay away from dealers on this stuff. They rip you off.

[Cap]

2.5' body lift /Flares/ 4.11 cwps/ Lockers 24 spline axles and 33" tyres go very well .:angel:

Yes, will go very well. The downside is that it will cost a tadd more than $10 :D

If you want a cheap upgrade (like I do), then wait until the axels break before replacing them (thats what im doing anyway :P) and just get some 235x85 tyres. With a 2" spring lift (give Shane from Suspensionstuff.com a call) you wont need to worry about cutting guards or a body lift.

Cheers,

[Rangier Rover]

Yes, will go very well. The downside is that it will cost a tadd more than $10 :D Only about 8 of 9 k more:o
Disco 24 spl Diffs are cheap though. I agree with break it then replace it when on a tight budget.

If you want a cheap upgrade (like I do), then wait until the axels break before replacing them (thats what im doing anyway :P) and just get some 235x85 tyres. With a 2" spring lift (give Shane from Suspensionstuff.com a call) you wont need to worry about cutting guards or a body lift.

Cheers, My old 2 door is done on cheap has been a heap of fun.
Only new parts in it are the pootrol shocks at $80 each. The rest was scrap inc the P76 donk. Now has s/h holden starfire pistons in it as they were free:D
Picked up a sals diff for it free too. Might make it into a grader;)

[4range]

Hi 4range

Is this right?? ... you found a 1987 RRC with only 70.000 K's on the clock
If so .. it's practically brand new!!!!! (You luckyyyyyyy bug###) :p

To answer the Diff / Suspention Q .... What type / weight is the boat???
And is it Auto or manual

Definately 70K - Its a new motor & Auto transmission transplant + new Transfer case. I know its genuine, I know the person that built it.

Trouble is, nothing was really done underneath other than new shocks & airbags in the rear, so the diffs & swivels prop shafts etc have probably got about 470k's on them !

The boat is a 5 meter aluminium and I hope under 750kg (no trailer brakes!!)

regards

[4range]

If the diffs are sus it will have over 200000 kms on it;) They break at 70000 before wear out. The clunk is often A frame ball joint. Also check the bushes in rear arms. The center Diff in LT230 can have a bit of back lash as well. Put hand brake on and shift foward to reverse if it still clunks it may be in transfer box or out put shaft of trany.
I would not bother with 10 spline RR diffs. Cost same or less to stick 24 spline disco. Or Air locker/Truetrack/ Hi Tuff axles etc. Depends how hard you charge off road.:D
If you want to tow with it bigger tyres will hinder it and will need 4.11 Cwps:eek:

2.5' body lift /Flares/ 4.11 cwps/ Lockers 24 spline axles and 33" tyres go very well .:angel:

PM Rovercare, he may have some Dico diffs and shafts to get you going. If you cant find some. Stay away from dealers on this stuff. They rip you off.

The bushes in the rear arms were done about a month ago apparently but then I dont know which ones.
As i have answered above, I'm not worried about the T/C as i know this is relatively new (same one as in the Disco 2 I believe- not viscous).

I'm not planning on competition standard off road - just something that's a little more adventurous.

Why do you say "EEK" on 4.11 Crown wheel Pinions, & what is the difference between these & standard?

I am a little worried about a body lift & 33's for 2 reasons: -

1. I dont think that I would be able to get it in the garage (what would be the likely height at the roof?)
2.body lift means re-engineering things like bullbar, radiator seat belt mounts & brake lines & what ever else goes with that, and whilst I know what a spanner looks like, I have never ventured beyond springs shockers & head gaskets !

[Cap]

My old 2 door is done on cheap has been a heap of fun.
Only new parts in it are the pootrol shocks at $80 each. The rest was scrap inc the P76 donk. Now has s/h holden starfire pistons in it as they were free:D
Picked up a sals diff for it free too. Might make it into a grader;)


GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR... some people are just lucky ;)

Still havent got the shocks yet Rangier....

[GuyG]

If your not looking to spend a lot stick with the standard diffs etc - they might break but it will really depend on how you drive it. I fitted a 50mm body lift to fit the tyres as they rubbed on the inner rear gaurds - but this was more due to the offset of the rims rather than the 31/10.5/15 tyres. I later fitted a spring lift cause I picked up the springs at the right price - this just gives that little extra clearance under the car. I have not had to worry about castor correction with only a 50 mm spring lift on any of my Rangies.

Towing wise we used to tow our 22ft Carribean Reef Runner (read damm heavy) with our old standard 2 door Rangie - never had any issues regarding with the way the car was setup, not something you really want to tow at huge speed anyway. The trailer was correctly balanced and braked though which all helps.

I'd check for rust etc

The things that I look at replacing first if required are all the bushes: trailing arms, radius arms, panard rod, a-frame bushes and ball joint, then the tie rod ends etc. Make sure you stick to rubber bushes and don't get talked into polyeurathane - they're too stiff for the car (I'm sure some will say you can get softer ones)

At least then you have a platform from which to work with motor gearbox and transfer already done:)

[Rangier Rover]

The bushes in the rear arms were done about a month ago apparently but then I dont know which ones.
As i have answered above, I'm not worried about the T/C as i know this is relatively new (same one as in the Disco 2 I believe- not viscous).

I'm not planning on competition standard off road - just something that's a little more adventurous.

Why do you say "EEK" on 4.11 Crown wheel Pinions, & what is the difference between these & standard?

I am a little worried about a body lift & 33's for 2 reasons: -

1. I dont think that I would be able to get it in the garage (what would be the likely height at the roof?)
2.body lift means re-engineering things like bullbar, radiator seat belt mounts & brake lines & what ever else goes with that, and whilst I know what a spanner looks like, I have never ventured beyond springs shockers & head gaskets !
Your TC will be LT230 they are good. After market 4.11:1 cwps set you back around 750 ish each + Lockers HD Shafts CVs and fitting:eek::eek: Stock ratio is 3.54:1. Don't try to Rover 4.11as as they break.
If you do a 2.5" body lift + 2" spring lift and fit 33s will sit around 7" taller.
If you can do springs shocks and head gaskets you will be fine to do a body lift.
Here are some sites to look at:D

http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/home.html(Off line at this point in time)
Graeme Cooper - Index of Landrover&Range Rover Upgrades (http://www.graemecooper.com.au/upgrades_index.htm)
Rovacraft - New Products. (http://www.rovacraft.com.au/newproducts.html)
Jack McNamara - Differential Specialists (http://www.mcnamaradiffs.com.au/)
land rover spring specifications (http://members.shaw.ca/jbarge/springinfo.html)
Cheers Tony

[Rangier Rover]

GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR... some people are just lucky ;)

Still havent got the shocks yet Rangier.... You can find Rovers under trees out here;) Most have given up on them and now have rice burners. I just missed out on a Zuzu stage 1:mad: Was to slow getting it. Have just found out a 48 Ser1 just got trashed and pushed into a landfill. They both were Freebees:eek:
Have found the part no on the EFS shocks on my 2 Door if you still want it:)

[Bush65]

There is no need to lift the suspension or cut anything to fit 31 x 10 tyres to a classic rangie.

[Cap]

....Have found the part no on the EFS shocks on my 2 Door if you still want it:)

oh, yes please :D

[rovercare]

There is no need to lift the suspension or cut anything to fit 31 x 10 tyres to a classic rangie.

Yes their is, they WILL foul on the gaurds, when cycleing the suspension

[Rangier Rover]

oh, yes please :D
Pt no is 36-5549 will need pin eye adapt and top mounts moveing up and more angle:cool: Just thinking the shocks philco has @ $100 each + shipping would do you. I might grab a set my self:angel:
ps Sorry for thread hijack all :wasntme:

[Rangier Rover]

Yes their is, they WILL foul on the gaurds, when cycleing the suspension Yep, it rips the chiter out of the front. Tried it on my 84 ph2. Also eats the front spoiler if you have one.:eek: