New Spline 109 Prop Shaft

[CapeLandy]

Front Prop Shaft
I have bought a new splined shaft end and yolk which were both severely worn. I machined out the splined end welded into the shaft and tapped the new stub into the pipe.
I machined a center hole into the fixed yolk end and set up the shaft in the lathe between two centers i.e one center in the 3 jaw chuck and one into the end of the new splined section already center drilled.
When I run the shaft it has a bit of a wobble - i will try and tap it until it runs true.
How do I make sure when I weld it that it stays dead straight other than stitch welding on opposite sides.
Anyone done this operation before?
Can I weld it such that the yolks are 90 degrees from each other as shown on page 47-1 of the manual - I forgot to mark the old one before I stripped out the worn bits.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/Landy1973/Series%20Landy/6.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/Landy1973/Series%20Landy/7.jpg
Thanks
James
James

[JDNSW]

I think you have answered the question yourself - by stitch welding. Note that the shaft should also be balanced after assembly, which is possible if you have access to a lathe large enough to put the shaft in.

It is worth noting that in this state at least, it is illegal to replace the spline except by an approved workshop, although I'm sure it is done. This is because of the difficulties you have found plus the dangers of an out of balance shaft. In my case, with a bit of shopping round, I was able to buy a new, genuine, prop shaft for the 110 for less than what the local driveshaft expert was asking to replace the spline.

John

[CapeLandy]

I also made a mistake by first buying only the yolk end as the spares guy said that the splined part does normally not wear out. Cost me R250 which was not too bad.
When I tested the yolk and found my splines were indeed worn a got a shock that the splined section was double in price (R560).
The new complete shaft would have cost me R1500 new.