Uni Joint Replacement

[Andrewpv01]

I am replacing the front uni joint on the front drive shaft in a 95 D1.

I have pulled it to pieces, but am having problems getting the new one into the yokes. They seem to need to be opened up 3-5mm to get it in.

I have a Toyo new joint part number K5-13XR.

Is this the correct part and should I just use a bit more force to persuade it into the yokes?

Could I have bent the yoked taking out the old one?

Thanks
Andrew

[discowhite]

part number is correct, hope you didnt squash the yoke when you removed the old one! also check if any needle rollers havnt fallen over in the caps.

cheers phil

[awabbit6]

I don't know about the part number, but no force should be required to ge the new one in apart from tapping the new caps in. How far have you got it together? If the caps aren't going in far enough to get the circlips in, one of the needles in the bearing may have fallen across the end of the cap.


Paul

[rangieman]

I don't know about the part number, but no force should be required to ge the new one in apart from tapping the new caps in. How far have you got it together? If the caps aren't going in far enough to get the circlips in, one of the needles in the bearing may have fallen across the end of the cap.


Paul
No dont tap the caps in if you have never done one before , either use a vice or a big G clamp to seat the caps , nocking the caps can unsettle the needle rollers and then your in the pooh!

[Andrewpv01]

I can't get the X part into the yoke.

I have tryed the 2 different yokes with the same result.

I think I will measure the gap in the yokes and see if they are the same/right.

Thanks
Andrew

[awabbit6]

I can't get the X part into the yoke.

I have tryed the 2 different yokes with the same result.

I think I will measure the gap in the yokes and see if they are the same/right.

Thanks
Andrew


Are you just putting one end of each axis in at a time? You'll never get both in at once.


Paul

[Andrewpv01]

Yes I was trying to put one end in at a time.

I just measured tham and found the old one is about 67mm and the new one I have is about 72mm (both without end caps).

I now assume I have a different yoke to standard on the front for some reason.

Has anybody seen the smaller ones before and know what model it may have come off?

The old one is a GKN brand, but I dont' think it has a part no on it. I will give it a good clean up and check though.


Thanks
Andrew

[awabbit6]

There is only one number listed on the Land Rover microcat (RTC3458).
Perhaps you do have a different propshaft.
I'm just about to go out and do an oil change on mine. I'll measure up the front yokes while I'm under there.

Paul

[Andrewpv01]

I have cleaned up the old one and found the following markings;

GKN 33153 cast on one side with HM or WH stamped
BRD 95 on the other side.
This measures exactly 70mm across the axis (without endcaps)

The new one has

TOYO JAPAN 704A cast into it and measures about 76.5mm across (without endcaps)

Is this going to be a case of the wrong uni in the box marked K5-13XR as the new circlips also look different to the old ones?

Thanks
Andrew

[awabbit6]

Is this going to be a case of the wrong uni in the box marked K5-13XR as the new circlips also look different to the old ones?




Could be. I have measured the internal distance across the inside of the yoke to be about 53mm at roughly the centre of the holes for the uni caps.

Paul

[awabbit6]

According to the Hardy Spicer Uni Joint catalogue (http://www.hardyspicer.com.au/PDF_Files/Driveline/B1_Universals_and_Bearings.pdf) the K5-13XR measures 81.76mm from end to end with the caps on.


Paul

[Andrewpv01]

The new one comes in a about 82 so I guess that is the correct part.

The old one measures just over 74mm

Endcaps are about 27mm for both.

OK I have just been checking dimensions in the catalogue Awabbit6 posted and it looks like I don't want the K5-13XR, but need the K5-A757.:twisted::twisted::confused:

Thanks guys looks like I have the wrong part.

Andrew