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Mudhog1974classic
25th July 2008, 03:45 PM
Hi Everyone,

My rangie only has to get it's feet wet before it starts to splutter and fart.:mad: Its time to sort it out. What are people doing as far as water proofing the electrics.

I've read the articles in the mags with air flow to the distributor cap, does this work? Has anyone got any pic's of their set up they want to share.

Any info would be appreciated

Brett

mcrover
25th July 2008, 04:28 PM
a. Make sure your ignition system is in really good condition.
Old leads tend to cross fire and arc and old plugs draw more current so it causes the leads to cross fire and arc.

b. You can use silicon spray or wax type spray or Lanotech for a temporary way to make the leads water resistant but for a more permanant fix you can use battery spray, I suggest you use the transparent type that Wurth sell or there is a product called Liquid rubber or something like that from Momar which is fantastic but costs $40 a can and I use it on the spray units all the time.

I have seen heaps of fancy tricks to make petrol engines water proof but the main thing is to use the best quality leads with good tight fitting plugs, a good quality cap with an O ring under it and a good coil, new plugs and make sure you keep it all up to service and even just a spray of WD40 before you go out makes a huge difference.

If you were to go the pump air into the dizzy etc you would need to have to use a compressor, reciever and pressure regulator and still there are no guarenties but you can always try it if you want.

mike 90 RR
25th July 2008, 04:30 PM
How old is all the electrics??
Leads / Cap / ect

Is it still running points??

Just seen mcrovers response ... Not much add to the list other than spray WD40 inside the dizzy cap
Someone else has tried "Antifog" .... to keep condensation from forming inside the cap when being hit with cold water outside

Mudhog1974classic
25th July 2008, 05:29 PM
I'm running a 3.9 Disco block with the old cover off the 3.5 fitted to it with SU carbs. I have fitted the electronic ignition from the 1996 Disco. All leads are new 8mm. The plugs get changed every 6 months.The coil is new as well. I have a snorkel fitted with a sealed air box set up.I am still running the large steel fan.The truck also has LPG, petrol dual fuel system fitted.

Brett

mike 90 RR
25th July 2008, 06:44 PM
Do all of the above .... Plus ... On the dizzy is the module block (unless it is remote hooked near the air cleaner) .. make sure it's seal it up with silicon or Sicaflex ... use some electrical grease inside the connecting plug .. to keep water from seeping into the pins inside and shorting it out and check where the wires enter the connecting plug is sealed

Mike

Rangier Rover
25th July 2008, 07:22 PM
Eleco grease and lanolin (Wool Grease) is good . I submerged my rangie wile crossing a Inland lake on an Island and it kept going :cool:Water even came through the vents. Stuffed the soundsystem and carpets:( Also stuffed my wifes hand bag as it was sitting under the vent:angel: We all had a good chuckle over the CDs floating around on the floor:eek:

Mudhog1974classic
25th July 2008, 07:38 PM
Has anyone tried a pipe from the heater and pumping hot air into the dizzy cap? Do you think this could work? I have an old dizzy body here and have seen the drain holes in the bottom. If I blow hot air in the cap, the air pressure should keep the steam and water out. What do you Guy's think?

Brett

Rangier Rover
25th July 2008, 08:11 PM
Has anyone tried a pipe from the heater and pumping hot air into the dizzy cap? Do you think this could work? I have an old dizzy body here and have seen the drain holes in the bottom. If I blow hot air in the cap, the air pressure should keep the steam and water out. What do you Guy's think?

Brett
The heater would not pressurize a match box let alone a dizzy;) If playing in H20 Some just block Drain holes. As my old mud racer had. It never got wet. Keep drain hole and a small air compressor sounds good but I have never bothered.;) More to go wrong:(

V8Landy
25th July 2008, 08:17 PM
You could try a gaurd underneath to stop water getting picked up by the fan.

Mudhog1974classic
26th July 2008, 04:33 AM
In the July 2007 mag, they use two pieces of plastic pipe and connect one to the brake servo via a T and the other to the snorkel to create a through flow of air. The Dizzy is connected between the two pipes. The dizzy cap has all spare holes sealed.

What do you think?

Brett

damienb
26th July 2008, 06:14 AM
Does the distributer actually need to breath? What I did:

Get rid of points, and swap to a bosch distributer.
Put everything except the distributer into a plastic lunch box.
Liberal silastic on everything else.
At the end I started bracing or removing the fan for deep crossings.
Finally, put a PVC snorkel on, because even a V8 petrol doesn't like sucking water & steam (though it didn't lock on a little water like a diesel would).

I had water over the bonnet quite a few times. Got my feet wet, but the car went on. Quite exciting for me and the passengers.

Then I went to Denmark.

Then when I got back, I bought a Tdi.

/Damien

mcrover
26th July 2008, 06:40 PM
Hi Everyone,

My rangie only has to get it's feet wet before it starts to splutter and fart.:mad: Its time to sort it out. What are people doing as far as water proofing the electrics. You have to find what is getting affected by the water first and make sure it is up to standard spec or better before going the mod route

I've read the articles in the mags with air flow to the distributor cap, does this work? Has anyone got any pic's of their set up they want to share.

Great for comp trucks that are sunk in mud/water up to their wipers and they still want them to run but if yours is crapping itself at the first sign of water then there is something wrong that needs to be fixed before you modify anything or else it will all be for nothing

Any info would be appreciated

Brett


I'm running a 3.9 Disco block with the old cover off the 3.5 fitted to it with SU carbs. I have fitted the electronic ignition from the 1996 Disco. All leads are new 8mm Are they cheap crappy leads or are they expensive good quality ones, the cheapies are fine for road use but they deteriorate very quickly when they are used in extreme conditions and covered in mud as well as the caps dont seal as well as the exy ones.. The plugs get changed every 6 months What about the plug gaps, too big and they will draw more current meaning if they get wet they will cross fire .The coil is new as well. I have a snorkel fitted with a sealed air box set up.I am still running the large steel fan.The truck also has LPG, petrol dual fuel system fitted.

Brett


Has anyone tried a pipe from the heater and pumping hot air into the dizzy cap? Do you think this could work? I have an old dizzy body here and have seen the drain holes in the bottom. If I blow hot air in the cap, the air pressure should keep the steam and water out. What do you Guy's think?Mate sorry but thats just rediculas, a heater blower is fine for a large flow of air but you wont get it to force air through a small tube as there is very little pressure.

You also have to find out why it is playing up and fix that first before you should even consider modifying it

Brett


In the July 2007 mag, they use two pieces of plastic pipe and connect one to the brake servo via a T and the other to the snorkel to create a through flow of air. The Dizzy is connected between the two pipes. The dizzy cap has all spare holes sealed.

What do you think?wont work and will give you a vacuum leak due to you are then sucking in air rather than dead heading the vacuum in the brake servo so it moves the diaphram, I wouldnt recomend it.

Brett


Does the distributer actually need to breath? What I did:

Get rid of points, and swap to a bosch distributer.
Put everything except the distributer into a plastic lunch box.
Liberal silastic on everything else.
At the end I started bracing or removing the fan for deep crossings.
Finally, put a PVC snorkel on, because even a V8 petrol doesn't like sucking water & steam (though it didn't lock on a little water like a diesel would).

I had water over the bonnet quite a few times. Got my feet wet, but the car went on. Quite exciting for me and the passengers.

Then I went to Denmark.

Then when I got back, I bought a Tdi.

/DamienIve seen people mounting relays and coils in plastic boxes before and I have also done it on a couple of cars/machines but if everything is up to scratch and you do a couple of preventative sprays then there really should be no need and Dizzys do have drain holes that are normally there for if the Dizzy shaft seal fails it leaks the oil out the base rather than filling the dizzy.

If the vehical is properly maintained then there is no need to have them and they could be filled which may help and no there is no need for the dizzy to have ventilation, esspecially when it has electronic.

By the way Damien, from 1 Damien to another, I like your choice of Vehical :D

mike 90 RR
26th July 2008, 07:42 PM
Geez McRover .... your seeing a bit red on this subject :p

Yep .. i agree ... Get your electrics up to spec
Block up those vent holes in the dizzy if your going "under water"
and apply liberal amounts of grease spray's over whats exposed

Hoses from heaters .... too complicated ... go for the "keep it simple method"

The only "cover plate" i would make up is a plastic one // installed in front of the Dizzy // to stop the fan doing a direct spray of water to dizzy (but you shouldn't need to if all is up to spec)


:)

mcrover
26th July 2008, 08:03 PM
Geez McRover .... your seeing a bit red on this subject :p

Yep .. i agree ... Get your electrics up to spec
Block up those vent holes in the dizzy if your going "under water"
and apply liberal amounts of grease spray's over whats exposed

Hoses from heaters .... too complicated ... go for the "keep it simple method"

The only "cover plate" i would make up is a plastic one // installed in front of the Dizzy // to stop the fan doing a direct spray of water to dizzy (but you shouldn't need to if all is up to spec)


:)

I could have used blue but red stands out much better :D

LoveMyV8County
27th July 2008, 03:31 PM
In addition to sprays and good leads / caps I would suggest tying the fan to stop it rotating for the crossing, and a tarp over the radiator grille so the bow wave stops the engine compartment from filling up with water at least while you are moving.

POD
28th July 2008, 02:33 PM
My first Rangie, an 84 model, used to splutter and misfire during and after river crossings, I mounted a small shield in front of the distributor in the form of a piece of 2mm sheet metal that was mounted to the top of the water pump, held by 2 of the upper WP bolts. Definitely helped, also took about 20 minutes to do and cost $0. I was expecting it to eventually fracture due to engine vibration but it was still in place 10 years later.

Mudhog1974classic
29th July 2008, 03:00 AM
Hi POD,

I will make up a shield and fit it as you have. I also got some CRC LANOCOTE(natural lanolin protection spray)
aswell as a small pot of the 3220 Lanocote Amber (thicker like hair wax)
I will clean all the electrical parts and then set about water proofing everything.

Thanks to everyone for the tips.:D

Brett

trobbo
31st July 2008, 11:40 AM
I have had two older rangies that both had this problem. Did all sorts of things to fix it, put everything in a box, glove over dizzy cap, shield in front of dizzy and silicon under the cap. The silicon worked the best at keeping it running out of these solutions.

But by far the best result I had was changing the dizzy over to an aftermarket one. This gave me a much better seal and it consistently kept going when near water.

I do not believe it is advisable to seal a points dizzy as the arc created by the points generates a gas. This gas if retained will lead to points wearing out faster.

BTW my current 95 disco has none of these problems. I just drive it, splash throught the water and keep going - that's it. So perhaps a dizzy of a late model disco / rr would work for you.