D2 front drive shaft problem?

[Pedro_The_Swift]

I thought a post where we could gather info on the D2 front drive shaft problem would help.

It seems to me as an owner, and AULRO tragic, that these seem to be going bang at an ever increasing rate.

If you have had to replace a front drive shaft please post letting us know the details---

Kays done?
amount of off-road use?
raised suspension?

and your repair,,

genuine?
aftermarket brand?
change of part?

I hope to add this to "The Good OIL"

[Grumndriva]

Pedro,

I have recently replaced my front prop shaft (99 D2 V8 auto) at 165,000 km. Not much off-road work (several days total) and all pretty gentle. Standard suspension height. Fair bit of moderate towing (maybe 20,000 km).

I noticed a medium to high frequency vibration appearing in the floor and pedals, and immediately booked it in for investigation. Couldn't get it in for several days, and drove it gently for maybe 50 km around town in the time up to it being checked. There was a noticable increase in driveline backlash in that time. It was totally cactus when checked. It was a very rapid deterioration, and I suspect it would have gone like Fenian Eel's front shaft within a few more km.

It was replaced with a new genuine shaft.

Terry

[WildOne]

I replaced mine a few months ago (D2 Td5), around 175000 Kms, i am the second owner of the disco, from sevice records previous owner did a fair bit of touring, towing a caravan, some offroad. I put in a 50mm lift and have done some decent offroading.
Rebuilt with greasable uni's at Range Rov - $350.00

[georgesadlik]

Hey all,

I've recently rebuilt mine with greasable joints and a new centre ball kit. All up about 250 in parts and a Saturday of my time. No special tools required and I didn't need to get it rebalanced. I think the trick is to mark everything before you pull it apart and put back the same way.
It all looks new because I actually cleaned all the parts and repainted before re-assembly. :wacko: That's normal right ?

Here is a photo pictorial of the job:

Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket (http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u31/georgesadlik/Front%20Prop%20Shaft/?albumview=slideshow)

Cheers

George

[Slunnie]

I thought a post where we could gather info on the D2 front drive shaft problem would help.

It seems to me as an owner, and AULRO tragic, that these seem to be going bang at an ever increasing rate.

If you have had to replace a front drive shaft please post letting us know the details---

Kays done?
amount of off-road use?
raised suspension?

and your repair,,

genuine?
aftermarket brand?
change of part?

I hope to add this to "The Good OIL"
I'm onto my 5th front shaft in 129,000km
2x Factory shafts
2x Rebuilts with greasable unis
1x 1310 uni joint shaft (Tom Woods)

I get about 1 year or 17-18000km per shaft.

Offroad work... lots. Mix of monthly Tuff Trips, touring and road km's.
4" raised with combination of 33" (road and touring) and 34/35" tyres (tuff trips)

What I have noticed is that dust from touring can be a killer.

High impact driving is a killer. When I was regularly doing the monthly tuff trips I would consume 1 shaft per year (17-18000km). I think that this high impact driving was the biggest contributor in my case. Now that I'm doing fewer, my shafts are lasting significantly longer.

Greasable unis dont last any longer than OE shafts.

It is always the DC combination that fails first - never the single uni at the front. Interestingly, these unis are the same size, so I can only assume the loading on the unis from the DC is also a factor.

I have upgraded to 1310 unis now, which are bigger. So far no problems, but I haven't put a years worth of TT's onto them yet, though they have done touring without drama.

[JDNSW]

....................

It is always the DC combination that fails first - never the single uni at the front. Interestingly, these unis are the same size, so I can only assume the loading on the unis from the DC is also a factor.

......

I think it is probably not the fact that it is a double cardan joint, but the fact that this joint is the one with most angle to deal with - the pinion shaft points pretty much towards the transfer case, so the joint there has little angle to deal with. Most work is done by the joint at the transfer case even though it is shared between two joints. It is likely that any wear on the centering mechanism of the DC joint will allow additional rapid oscillation of the joints themselves, but again, this wear is a direct result of the angle the joint is working through.

And this consideration also means that the biggest factor in reduced life would be a suspension lift.

John

[Redback]

I have done 3, first one was around 90 to 100,000ks next was around 500ks later after it was found they rebuilt it with the wrong or incorrect fitting of the unis:mad:the next went at 150,000ks i have the greasable unis in now.

Chipped, bigger tyres and a 3" lift

Alot of touring and towing

Alot of offroad and towing + tuff stuff

Alot of onroad and towing

We average over 30,000ks a year.

Hey Slunnie, it must be the way you drive:p:p

Baz.

[eckolsim]

I am just about to change one.

2" lift, chipped and intercooled; 175k on the clock. This is the first to my knowledge.

It would be interested in hearing where people are getting the parts from also on this page as sourcing these things can be a challenge.

Regards

[eckolsim]

Just been over to Harder Spicer at Moorebank. They had all the bits and will reco my drive shaft (including balancing). I should get it back friday and will advise as to how it goes.

I purchased the uni's from CBC bearings first (they were Hardy Spicer) but it turns out when I went to Hardy Spicer for the Ball Joint kit, the bearings that CBC gave me were the 1300 series p/n K5-L4R (greasable and normal duty). For the disco they recommend the K5-A757 (non greasable and heavy duty).

BTW
CBC charged 14.50 for the K5-L4R
Repco wanted $111 for the K5-A757
& HS wanted $~50 for the K5-757
The Ball Joint kit from HS p/n SCV-82B was $77.
I also noticed in their catalogue that they have the rubber drive coupling.

If I had the inclination to do they job myself I could have come away from the with change out of $120 (using the non heavy duty U/J's).

Depending on how this build goes, if it breaks again I shall put in the HD U/J's next time.

[Pierre]

03 S2 Disco Delilah's getting dressed to go to the northwest in about four weeks. There has been a vibration at about 90 kph from beneath my feet, and investigation yielded nothing in particular.

So, propshaft out at 150,000 km. Delivered today to Precision Drivelines in Hallam, where it will get a workover - new greasable 1310 series unis and a dynamic balance, new nylon ball and pins if necessary. Will be ready tomorrow (probably). About $180 the job.

We'll see if there's a banishing of the vibration on the weekend.

Pete

[Slunnie]

I think it is probably not the fact that it is a double cardan joint, but the fact that this joint is the one with most angle to deal with - the pinion shaft points pretty much towards the transfer case, so the joint there has little angle to deal with. Most work is done by the joint at the transfer case even though it is shared between two joints. It is likely that any wear on the centering mechanism of the DC joint will allow additional rapid oscillation of the joints themselves, but again, this wear is a direct result of the angle the joint is working through.

And this consideration also means that the biggest factor in reduced life would be a suspension lift.

John
I'm not sure that I agree with this, as it is not a situation that is duplicated at the rear, where the single uni deals with the entire lift, as opposed to the DC which divides the angle between each uni. The other interesting thing is that the rear shaft sees significantly great forces through it when compared to the front, and I am assuming that impact forces are similar due to the use of lockers.

The thing that makes me tend to think that driving conditions and style is a greater factor than lift though, is that since reducing the number of TT's, the shafts have been lasting significantly longer. But that said, I do agree that the lift increases the wear in the uni joints.

[Ricey]

I had the chirping noises on load within a week of Teflon being stuck in a dam. I went for a genuine replacement from ATV $650 :( Since then I've noticed vibrations between 2400-2600 rpm which is being investigated now.

2" lift, 265/70-16 tyres, reasonable amount of offroading in the last 12 months since I've had it. 116,000 kLM

[JDNSW]

I'm not sure that I agree with this, as it is not a situation that is duplicated at the rear, where the single uni deals with the entire lift, as opposed to the DC which divides the angle between each uni. The other interesting thing is that the rear shaft sees significantly great forces through it when compared to the front, and I am assuming that impact forces are similar due to the use of lockers.

The thing that makes me tend to think that driving conditions and style is a greater factor than lift though, is that since reducing the number of TT's, the shafts have been lasting significantly longer. But that said, I do agree that the lift increases the wear in the uni joints.

I can't visualise the relative lengths - but isn't the rear shaft on a Disco quite a bit longer than the front one? Which means the angle is significantly less, although you are right, the double cardan joint means it is shared between the two joints, although any wear on the centering mechanism allows the possibility of destructive vibration that is not there for a single joint. Also, is the crankshaft and hence transfer case shafts horizontal? or inclined back slightly, which would also increase the angel on the front shaft compared to the back.

Lifting is a major factor in U-joint wear - the larger the angle the more rapidly they wear in any application. I'm not too sure how much of a factor impact forces are, although as soon as there is wear and hence play, impact forces will have a major part to play in failure. Also, would lockers make the life of a prop shaft U-joint harder? To the extent the locker prevents loss of traction and sudden gripping, I would have thought it would help (of course the effect on the half axles is different). I also would have thought that dust was fairly well excluded from modern U-joints, although the same can perhaps not be said for water and mud.

John

[Slunnie]

I can't visualise the relative lengths - but isn't the rear shaft on a Disco quite a bit longer than the front one? Which means the angle is significantly less, although you are right, the double cardan joint means it is shared between the two joints, although any wear on the centering mechanism allows the possibility of destructive vibration that is not there for a single joint. Also, is the crankshaft and hence transfer case shafts horizontal? or inclined back slightly, which would also increase the angel on the front shaft compared to the back.

Lifting is a major factor in U-joint wear - the larger the angle the more rapidly they wear in any application. I'm not too sure how much of a factor impact forces are, although as soon as there is wear and hence play, impact forces will have a major part to play in failure. Also, would lockers make the life of a prop shaft U-joint harder? To the extent the locker prevents loss of traction and sudden gripping, I would have thought it would help (of course the effect on the half axles is different). I also would have thought that dust was fairly well excluded from modern U-joints, although the same can perhaps not be said for water and mud.

John
Both shafts run a decent angle through them at the transfer. The length are different, but the rear isn't a lot longer and the angle through the rear uni will still be more than that through the each uni in the front DC. Any vibration is shared through the driveline through the centre diff. I tend to think that the locker make life easier on the propshafts. Oh well, where water and mud will go, dust will be there before hand. :D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1156.jpg

[FenianEel]

Shaft died at 110,000km - 2002 D2 TD5

Pretty standard suspension set up
Lots of off road, some harsh first 90,000k, not much the last 20k

Gibbs Truck repair at Burleigh, did a great job, completely refurbed/recreated for $265. ;)

Details here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery/60501-d2-driveshaft-goes-bang-2.html#post786429

[Redback]

Both shafts run a decent angle through them at the transfer. The length are different, but the rear isn't a lot longer and the angle through the rear uni will still be more than that through the each uni in the front DC. Any vibration is shared through the driveline through the centre diff. I tend to think that the locker make life easier on the propshafts. Oh well, where water and mud will go, dust will be there before hand. :D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1156.jpg

I still reckon it's the way you drive:p

[Pedro_The_Swift]

This one for Pierre and Slunnie,,

did the 1310's make a big price change?
are they a common part?




and this for the engineers

will going to a bigger uni make a practical difference?

[Slunnie]

I still reckon it's the way you drive:p
I would say that it is the due to the conditions that we are forced to enjoy driving and so look to pass on the costs involved. :wasntme: :lol2:



But you're probably right. :blush:

[Kandy]

Just adding my experience (Disco 2003 Td5)
Proactive advice from MR Redcliffe on 90000K service.
Replace front uni joint at TC end of front drive shaft as it is a sealed unit and cannot be greased, seizes up and buggers the box and everything related.
U bet, done with a heavy duty, greasable defender UV joint, $58 part, $60 labour, well done MR.
Steve

[Slunnie]

This one for Pierre and Slunnie,,

did the 1310's make a big price change?
are they a common part?




and this for the engineers

will going to a bigger uni make a practical difference?

Sorry, I've only just seen this now.

The shafts were made by Tom Woods in the US and sent over to Australia - turn around from the phone call to landing at my work was less than a week.

The cost for 2 DC shafts I think ended up being about $1350AU or similar landed which is a little bit more than 1 only 1310 spicer shaft made here, or about the same cost to buy per unit for a factory replacement or greasable but otherwise OE spec equivilent shaft. The Tom Woods shafts are $360US-$390US ea + shipping.
Landrover Application (http://www.4xshaft.com/Landrover.html)

They are good value, and I'm really surprised that more people are not doing it. Actually, I had Tom make my shafts for the V8 SeriesII ute also using 1310 unis.

The 1310 unis are a common part, and Tom has his own unis which he guarantees (only the uni) He is also a big name in competition vehicles such as rock crawling and many of these trucks also run his shafts.

Will it make a difference.... I guess time will tell, though I'm expecting that it will as they have a higher torque capacity which is what I believe contrubutes to my failures. The smallest tyre I run is a 285/75-16 and bigger Simex in the bush, lockers, chip + intercooler etc and it gets used a bit for playing, touring and DDing. I've got a bit of lift too and this also contributes to uni wear, but hopefully a stronger uni running at a lower % of its peak and running torques will help to offset the wear from the increased angle.

Does it make a practical difference??? I hope so.... there is only so bug you can go due to space constraints with the gearbox. One of the problems with going to a bigger uni, is that if there are any problems in the driveline that are causing vibrations already, then the heavier weight of the larger uni will increase this. Also, the Tom Woods shafts use an adaptor onto the transfer output flange to mate to the 1310 flange. This will increase the angle through the DC slightly I guess, though when I had it tested for runout it had none, so I assume they are CNC machined - and do look it.



On a side note, this is a very interesting bit of reading on the unis available, with comment on the early failures of sealed for life unis joints
U-Joint Differences (http://www.4xshaft.com/ujoint_diff.html)


Out of interest, here are some pics of the Tom Woods shafts:

Adaptor from LR output flange to 1310 uni flange.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/1088.jpg

Front and rear 1310 DC shafts to suit Disco2
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/1089.jpg

Available angle with 1310 DC joint.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/1090.jpg

Lame pic of centering ball.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/1271.jpg

When I said that I need it to be 100% reliable for remote touring, Tom threw in for free an additional 1310 DC yolk for me to pack in case of an emergency! What a fella! The bearing has a white plastic cap in it to protect it and keep it together.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/1270.jpg

[ozscott]

I love my 02. It does very well without CDL - especially when you get the brake fluid changed every 40-50kk and know how to use the throttle to good measure to make the ETC work to best advantage...but no matter how good that is, if my front shaft goes out to lunch Im probably going nowhere fast in deep sand. I have done 125,000 ks with no breakage or noise. I have done a fair bit of off roading, but a total of perhaps 10 days solid and I tow a 2 tonn boat a fair bit with it. I suppose im lucky to date with no noise etc.

I am planning a Frazer trip soon and had contemplated fitting CDL but cant justify the cost (mine has no internals).

Cheers

[DaveF]

Greetings,

Well it happened last weekend! After reading this post as well as FenianEel's post and FenianEel listing the warning signs. It happened, well almost. After having a great time travelling South on the Border Track from Pinnaroo to Bordertown in SA I noticed when we pulled into Bordertown a sqeaking/chirping sound under load combined with slight vibration. Oh Sh#@ not the dreaded FenianEel chirping. Well being over 200km's from home denial set in and I thought if I just coast home doing 60kms/hr it would be ok. 20Km from Bordertown a fellow 4WDriver who we had previously met on the 'Track' passed by, got on the radio to see if we were ok and then suggested to phone the RAA. Why didnt I think of that I pay $$$ in subsriptions and rarely use it. So pulled over, phoned the RAA and was told they would be about half an hour. While waiting I got under the car and checked the front shaft joints and sure enough one was very loose. No I didnt check as closely in Bordertown as I was in denial. I decided to wait for the RAA for them to confirm what I found. The RAA came and the guy said, well its a tow back to bordertown and youll be there for the night. THe uni joint was stuffed and they would have to order the parts in. I remembered my mechanic telling me once when I queried a vibration that you can remove the front shaft and still drive by engaging the CDL to get drive to the rear wheels. Yet another good reason to have a CDL. Well back in Bordertown had the front shaft removed, took photos(still working out how to upload them be patient) and drove home happily.

Now working out with my mechanic whether to:
A: Replace only the uni joints with new greaseable ones
B: Instal a new complete OEM shaft
C: Instal a modified complete shaft with Landcruiser 3.5" greaseable joints
D: Rebuild shaft with new HD greaseable uni joints and ball joint unit.

So a HUGE thankyou to those who post info on this forum, your wisdom and wealth of knowledge is invaluable. :twobeers:

DaveF
01 D2 TD5, 2" OME Lift, CDL Actuated, Pirelli Scorpion 245/70/16 ATR's, Safari snorkel.

[DaveF]

Greetings,

Sorted some pics, as you can see it was not too far away from BANG!! Approx 5 out of 8 sides of the joint cups were broken off.:(



Cheers
DaveF

[rovermech]

I know Im in the U.S. but I replace the D2 front drive shafts all the time. The best luck I have here is using Great Basin Rovers in Salt Lake City. They offer a remanned front shaft with greasable fittings or you can get a heavy duty....both I have used with no problems at all. I"m not sure what kind of shipping cost's would involved...but Bill is a great guy to deal with. Just my two cents.

[DaveF]

Some further info relating to my front shaft nearly going BANG.
The truck has done 142,000km, I purchased it 2nd hand at 56,000km and it had not been offroad, I could tell as it did not have any dust in the usual places. I have done a reasonable amount of offroading inc Simpson Desert, Flinders Ranges, The Coorong. Had an OME 2" kit fitted in March this year prior to a 9 day trek to the Victorian High Country where we tackled some amazing challenging tracks, would have had difficulty if the truck was not lifted, even had to use low 1st to negotiate some rocks etc, most of the time low 2nd was low enough.

The shaft is now in the hands of Peter at PCB LandRover SA being rebuilt with new double cardon joint and H/D Spicer greaseable unijoints, as per Georgesadliks post.
Hopefully wont be too $$$$. Currently driving as a 2WD :angel:with CDL actuated.
Cheers
DaveF

[Pierre]

Sorry to have been so long in adding to the store of info.

The recon propshaft is in and working well. I lied about 1310 series unis - they are 1300 series. Parts and labour, incl dynamic balance, $180.

An interesting observation by the technician - "this shaft has been out of balance since new, and by a fair bit!" What a fair bit is, don't know, wasn't there, can't tell, no piccies.

There was little wear on original unis, despite balance fault and 150k. That was pleasing. However, now it's a greasable driveline, dynamically balanced and I hope I've put a hat on that part of the vehicle prep.

Cheers,

Pete

[NobbyTD5]

Davef
would be very interested in the cost of your new front shaft and how it drives etc
and service etc from PCB in SA


Slunnie

any comment on the "rebuilt with new double cardon joint and H/D Spicer greaseable unijoints' combination

cheers
Nobby

[Slunnie]

Davef
would be very interested in the cost of your new front shaft and how it drives etc
and service etc from PCB in SA


Slunnie

any comment on the "rebuilt with new double cardon joint and H/D Spicer greaseable unijoints' combination

cheers
Nobby
Gday Nobby,

I'm not sure. It didn't seem to make a lot of difference to my shaft life if the DC was OE or greasable, they both standard size joints failed at pretty much the same time each year. The 1310 HD Spicer I never ran, Toombie did though as the tester for that shaft and I dont believe he had any problems with it. I run the Tom Woods HD 1310 shafts and so far so good for me, though I have not had it in long enough to fail or subjected it to the same amount of heavy driving, but it has done extended touring work without problem doing Hay River etc 12 months ago.

[DaveF]

Davef
would be very interested in the cost of your new front shaft and how it drives etc
and service etc from PCB in SA

cheers
Nobby

Hi Nobby,

Peter at PCB has the unit apart and it should be good to go Monday. Peter has recently had another Land Rover tragic join him to ease his workload(he was being booked out weeks/months in advance). As I am not a mechanic and can do minor things myself I trust Peter with the Discovery and know it is well looked after and I am not being ripped off. I would recommend him to any Landy owner. Good rate too.
I am looking forward to driving back on all 4's as it just does not feel right with just rear wheel drive. Backlash and new vibrations add to my angst.:(
Will keep you posted on how it all pans.
Cheers
DaveF

[DaveF]

Well the truck is back driving on all 4 and all the backlash and strange vibrations are gone ??? Also had a new drag link fitted and that got rid of the slight wobble under braking at 85km/hr.
For those interested the Double Cardon ball joint was replaced with a Hardy Spicer number along with the 3 uni-joints replaced with Hardy Spicer GKN's.
Parts = $227.50 (DC Joint $77.50 uni-joints $50 each)
Labour = $226.25 (2.5 hrs, I know it was longer but Peter said he now knows better for the next one)
Add to this the cost of the drag link and the plastic got a bit of a hammering. Oh well another deduction to offset my car allowance.:angel:

Cheers
DaveF

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Talk about a boy scout:p

Mrs Pedro mention a small vibration yesterday so I crawled under the D2 and was greeted by this-
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

well, nearly;), inside shaft visible, bright steel where the caps been only just broken.
seems we caught it pretty quick!

now to fix it,,,

(thanks for the pic DaveF :) )

[Slunnie]

Good save!

How old was the shaft?

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Mornin!:)

umm, around 110K.

no water stains that I could see,,
This car has run the aircon pretty much permanently since it came up here from Vic,, I was sort of expecting rust marks IF it was a water problem,,
none of the pics show any rust marks--

Did the centre bearing require replacing in any of yours Slunnie?
or was it a case of "while i'm there"?

[Slunnie]

Mornin! :D

When they come apart to do the unis, the centre bearing has to come apart anyway so they just do the whole lot at the same time. That part get wear in it anyway, and I wonder about how much it contributes to the failures that may be dust/mud related. Somebody previously (Graeme???) tried a bronze or similar bush in place of the rollers but I don't think that was much better IIRC.

[Yorkie]

ok, i have a bag of budgies under the car or sounds like this issue is about to raise its head. chirping under accelaeration and occasionally whilst cruising :(
now for a family with only the one car i either have to wait until later in the week to drop it in to be fixed or buy a new shaft and fit myself on the weekend. so who/where in sydney is the place to buy a replacement?, do they come with greasable uni's or same sealed unit?. whats the pricing like these days? would like to just take it out and get rebuilt but not possible due to reason above and needing transport.
if buying a replacement is out then suspect davies performance will be asked to sort it out. :cool:
thanks
yorkie :(

[McDisco]

ok, i have a bag of budgies under the car or sounds like this issue is about to raise its head. chirping under accelaeration and occasionally whilst cruising :(
now for a family with only the one car i either have to wait until later in the week to drop it in to be fixed or buy a new shaft and fit myself on the weekend. so who/where in sydney is the place to buy a replacement?, do they come with greasable uni's or same sealed unit?. whats the pricing like these days? would like to just take it out and get rebuilt but not possible due to reason above and needing transport.
if buying a replacement is out then suspect davies performance will be asked to sort it out. :cool:
thanks
yorkie :(

Hey mate

Those sounds are characteristic of a failing front shaft, but can also be similar to the exhaust manifold stud failure sound. Have you got under and checked the joint for free play?

Apparently its not that hard to rebuild (say he who bough a rebuilt one). You could always drop the shaft out, lock the centre diff and drive around in 2wd for a while. Then fix it up when you get the bits...

Angus

[Yorkie]

mcdisco, thanks. manifold studs were only replaced (redrilled 10mm aswell) about 5k ago.
problem is i dont have cdl so no chance to remove and continue motion:o
will be making some calls tomorrow.
cheers
yorkie

[Maggot4x4]

Has anyone put a normal non D/C shaft in it? I don't see the need for the D/C really.

My Rangie shaft is on a much bigger angle than my D2 shaft.

Have not had a good look at the D2 so happy to be corrected.

[Bundalene]

I replaced the pair of non greasable unis with greasable ones at about 100,000kms (under $18 per uni). We now have 245,000kms on our disco - still the same unis. They get greased about every 10,000kms or after heaps of wet weather or wading.

Erich.............touch wood;)

[McDisco]

mcdisco, thanks. manifold studs were only replaced (redrilled 10mm aswell) about 5k ago.
problem is i dont have cdl so no chance to remove and continue motion:o
will be making some calls tomorrow.
cheers
yorkie

You sure? You should have the internals and the spigot nut thing. You only need a 10mm spanner to activate it.

Angus

[ozscott]

I have posted before about a sound that is like that that has been described on this site many times before for front cardon joint failure...that I suppose is one drawback of forums is you cannot hear the sound and rely on descriptions. Mine finally became constant and louder and it is now clear that mine is the front passenger side CV making chirping sounds on take off...to complicate matters the left Cat is rattling....my front Cardon is sweet for now. Perhaps my cut off a/c drains are a significant part of that...I have done heaps of sand work and plenty of mud and water work...some dust (but nothing like outback touring dust in terms of volume and insidiousness). Its all good honest fun:D

Cheers

[McDisco]

mcdisco, thanks. manifold studs were only replaced (redrilled 10mm aswell) about 5k ago.
problem is i dont have cdl so no chance to remove and continue motion:o
will be making some calls tomorrow.
cheers
yorkie

You sure? You should have the internals and the spigot nut thing. You only need a 10mm spanner to activate it.

Angus

[Yorkie]

You sure? You should have the internals and the spigot nut thing. You only need a 10mm spanner to activate it.

Angus

quite sure, 08/01 model, no internals.....now if anyone has any they don't use :p
is there a visable sign of dc issues, other than mine and pictures of failed ones on here i have no other reference?

[McDisco]

The chirping sounds upon acceleration, free play in the joint (grab each knuckle and give it a twist) and check whether the bearing caps have popped off or not.

Angus

[Pedro_The_Swift]

I replaced the pair of non greasable unis with greasable ones at about 100,000kms (under $18 per uni). We now have 245,000kms on our disco - still the same unis. They get greased about every 10,000kms or after heaps of wet weather or wading.

Erich.............touch wood;)

I've been quoted around $30 ea up here,,,

what part number were the UJ's?

[mrapocalypse]

I had the Unis changed to Greasable as preventative maintenance at 80k. Then at about 85K the centre bearing went with a rumble and a vibration. $650 for a whole new shaft because at the time I was advised you couldn't rebuild the centre bearing. WRONG, Anyway number two was out of whack so number three went in and no probs so far. Moderate off road, lots of hammering it in sand and dirt roads. Nothing extreme. 01 V8 with 2" lift and at the time 265/70/16 tyres.

[Maggot4x4]

Has anyone put a normal non D/C shaft in it? I don't see the need for the D/C really.

My Rangie shaft is on a much bigger angle than my D2 shaft.

Have not had a good look at the D2 so happy to be corrected.
Anyone?

[Yorkie]

well i must thank this site once again for making me aware of possible issues.
the chirping has been getting worse since first noticed (700km ago:angel:) and now showing exactly what is wrong.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/04/783.jpg
hats off to bundelene who will be providing a replacement and for now the disco is grounded.
cheers
yorkie :(

[Bundalene]

Hi Yorkie,

I forgot to ask - V8 or TD5, I have both.

I don't know what the technical difference is but the tailshafts have a different protection boot over the sliding joint.

Physically they both measure up same.

Ckeers, Erich

[Yorkie]

td5 please :)
thanks

[Pedro_The_Swift]

The damage--
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/04/720.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/04/721.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/04/722.jpg

[Yorkie]

^^^^^^ looks surprisingly like mine that i removed last night:D.
time to refurb the old one with greasable joints and all should be good.

cheers
yorkie :)

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Hey Yorkie!

let me know the balljoint part number?:angel:;):D

[Piddler]

Well after looking at all your posts today I decided to pull the front shaft from my D2 with 190 odd thousand km's on it.

Looked OK in there but found 1 uni joint was r/s

I rang Hardy Spicer and they quoted 3 off k5-A747 uni's at $41.44 ea.

The problem I have is I would like to replace the ball joint as well On George's photo breakdown he used a Hardy SCV-82 ball joint. Hardy Spicer say you have to modify the sealing arrangement if you use this one (George did not note this though). Hardy's are saying buy a SCV-82ANG but it is nearly double the price they say it goes straight in. I am not too worried about cost but would like to know the correct answer as living in the country I do not wish to organise the parts twice.

Can any one advise?

Cheers

[georgesadlik]

Well after looking at all your posts today I decided to pull the front shaft from my D2 with 190 odd thousand km's on it.

Looked OK in there but found 1 uni joint was r/s

I rang Hardy Spicer and they quoted 3 off k5-A747 uni's at $41.44 ea.

The problem I have is I would like to replace the ball joint as well On George's photo breakdown he used a Hardy SCV-82 ball joint. Hardy Spicer say you have to modify the sealing arrangement if you use this one (George did not note this though). Hardy's are saying buy a SCV-82ANG but it is nearly double the price they say it goes straight in. I am not too worried about cost but would like to know the correct answer as living in the country I do not wish to organise the parts twice.

Can any one advise?

Cheers


Richard check your PM. I had no dramas with the SCV-82 and i'm not sure about the other part. My rebuild is nearly a year old now and still going strong.

Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket (http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u31/georgesadlik/Front%20Prop%20Shaft/?albumview=slideshow)

Cheers

George

[Pedro_The_Swift]

isnt that interesting,,

the people that are supplying my new ones are freighting them up from melbourne(????), and were informed (by melbourne) that the k5lkr and the 747 were the same,,,


what price the ball joint George?

[Piddler]

isnt that interesting,,

the people that are supplying my new ones are freighting them up from melbourne(????), and were informed (by melbourne) that the k5lkr and the 747 were the same,,,


what price the ball joint George?

Hi Pedro
Hardy Spicer quoted me $56 ish for the ball joint George used and I will be using.

Cheers

[georgesadlik]

Hi Pedro
Hardy Spicer quoted me $56 ish for the ball joint George used and I will be using.

Cheers

That's about right for the price of the ball joint.

I had to fabricate a "special tool" to get the ball joint in. I used a piece of steel pipe ground down to sit on the outer race of the ball, yet narrow enough to fit into the socket on the cardan joint. Then just tap it gently in.

Cheers

George.

[Yorkie]

isnt that interesting,,

the people that are supplying my new ones are freighting them up from melbourne(????), and were informed (by melbourne) that the k5lkr and the 747 were the same,,,


what price the ball joint George?

i have dropped mine in at jmac here in sydney and they get the ball joint/centre bearing part from qld:D reckon about $60-70 for the part. along with the uni's provided by bundalene it should all be back together for collection next week:D
cheers
yorkie

[Pedro_The_Swift]

i have dropped mine in at jmac here in sydney and they get the ball joint/centre bearing part from qld:D reckon about $60-70 for the part. along with the uni's provided by bundalene it should all be back together for collection next week:D
cheers
yorkie


:Rolling:;)

[Pedro_The_Swift]

just picked the balljoint up from the local BSC,,

$47!!!
(plus airfreight)

its a funny lookin thing:eek:

another funny thing-- I was told this is the first one of these sold by BSC anywhere in OZ,,,




Hopefully will all be fixed for this weekends trip to Landcruiser Park,,,,

[Pedro_The_Swift]

more parts!!
picked up the three ball joints, K5L4R, (which are greaseable)

$25 ea plus gst,,:D

[georgesadlik]

more parts!!
picked up the three ball joints, K5L4R, (which are greaseable)

$25 ea plus gst,,:D

Looks like you'll be quite busy this weekend. ;)

[Piddler]

Just arrived 3 hardy Spicer K5-a747 1300 series heavy duty uni's. These now come with grease nipples. :):) $41.62ea and 1 off SCV082B $52.00

Job on tonight to throw it back together.

Cheers

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Pity I didnt get a pic of my SCV 082A
might make an interesting comparo Piddler:angel:

[georgesadlik]

Can you guys post some pics ?

I'd like to see the difference.

Cheers

George.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

The parts are already at the shop,,(trying to be clever:o)
but have to drop BUB002 off at the shop, on the way to work, this morning early,, (in about 15 mins!!!)
so will try then,,,

how about yours Piddler??:p

[Piddler]

Well couple of hours job done a bugger f a job that centre bearing it sure is weird. I can see why some repairers just buy a new shaft and won't fix them fairly average job.

Any way all sweet now regreasable with heavy duty unis's

cheers

[Pedro_The_Swift]

yep,, mines up and running too,,,:cool:

[georgesadlik]

So i guess we're done here then ?

;)

George

[Pedro_The_Swift]

I can post the pic of the centre ball joint---





if anyones interested,,

[georgesadlik]

I can post the pic of the centre ball joint---





if anyones interested,,

Pedro, did you get SCV82A ? If so i'd like to see the diff as i installed the SCV82B. I wonder what sets them apart ?

Cheers

George

[Pedro_The_Swift]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/421.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/422.jpg

[mikecmb]

I have recently noticed a high pithced vibration comming through the gear stick (Manual ) on my D2. I think I will crawl under it and have a look.

Anyone know who best to fix shafts in Perth.

Mike

[georgesadlik]

Mike,

Try these guys

Drive Shafts Australia (http://www.driveshaftsaustralia.com.au/)

, I have spoken to nigel when trying to source parts for my rebuild and he was very helpful even though i was in Sydney.

Cheers

George.

[mikecmb]

Had a look doesnt seem to bad down there front greaseable was a bit dry but a couple of squirts of grease took up the slack. The rear double uni joint looks good cant feel any play and no sign of broken bits.

I have done 140,000 ks so either I am a smooth driver or perhaps its because mine is a manual. My wife and I double shuffle, just a habit we got into because its a nasty box and with turbo lag it slows down the change so its nice and smooth.

I think I will replace them before the next long trip and have warned the wife if the vibe starts up bad to pull over and call the RAC.

Miked

[Piddler]

Had a look doesnt seem to bad down there front greaseable was a bit dry but a couple of squirts of grease took up the slack. The rear double uni joint looks good cant feel any play and no sign of broken bits.

I have done 140,000 ks so either I am a smooth driver or perhaps its because mine is a manual. My wife and I double shuffle, just a habit we got into because its a nasty box and with turbo lag it slows down the change so its nice and smooth.

I think I will replace them before the next long trip and have warned the wife if the vibe starts up bad to pull over and call the RAC.

Miked

I would pull it out and check it. Mine looked OK; when removed it was stuffed.
3 hours $190 for parts and all good now
test drove today.


Cheers

[jmkoffice]

I had all the uni's replaced and shafts balanced this week:

Kays done - 132,000
amount of off-road use - average once a month plus I tow a 2000kg poptop.
raised suspension - 2" lift
genuine - No. Replaced 3 x unis on front shaft. The front uni and two unis in the double cardon joint. Replaced 1 x uni and replaced the pinion bush and rubber flex joint on rear shaft.
aftermarket brand - Whatever the driveline specialist uses
change of part - Yes for the double cardon joint, non-greasable unis fitted.

I had all parts replaced as the front uni on the double cardon joint developed some play and caused vibration. I don't like unexpected failures.....

Cheers

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Pedro, did you get SCV82A ? If so i'd like to see the diff as i installed the SCV82B. I wonder what sets them apart ?

Cheers

George


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/421.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/422.jpg

So,, whats the verdict George??



also for anyone interested,,
the ball joint was an absolute bastard to get out,,
aparently:p

[mikecmb]

I had all the uni's replaced and shafts balanced this week:

Kays done - 132,000
amount of off-road use - average once a month plus I tow a 2000kg poptop.
raised suspension - 2" lift
genuine - No. Replaced 3 x unis on front shaft. The front uni and two unis in the double cardon joint. Replaced 1 x uni and replaced the pinion bush and rubber flex joint on rear shaft.
aftermarket brand - Whatever the driveline specialist uses
change of part - Yes for the double cardon joint, non-greasable unis fitted.

I had all parts replaced as the front uni on the double cardon joint developed some play and caused vibration. I don't like unexpected failures.....

Cheers

JM is yours an auto or manual, I am trying to work out why I have a vibration comming through my gear stick in a maual with 140,00o ks. Prop shafts looks ok although I dont have exray vision.

Mike

[georgesadlik]

So,, whats the verdict George??



also for anyone interested,,
the ball joint was an absolute bastard to get out,,
aparently:p

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/04/309.jpg

Pedro, the only differences i can see are that mine has a chamfered edge where the centre race is and it came with a seal which was exactly like the piece that came out. Was there a seal in your kit ?
Your right about getting the old one out. It took a bit of encouragement with a cold chisel and a FBH. :o

Cheers

George

[Pedro_The_Swift]

no seal,,,

wonder what the chamfer is for?

[jmkoffice]

Mike, it's an auto. Have your shafts been balanced properly? This is important......

[georgesadlik]

no seal,,,

wonder what the chamfer is for?

Not sure about the chamfer ??? maybe it gives me more flex :p

But i would've thought the seal was pretty important...

Cheers

George.

[ozscott]

See the pic posted on page 4 by Pedro....see attached...mine at 148,500....nice! I am keen to get it back on the road asap so am keen to know what the correct greasable parts are?

Cheers and thanks.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

I run the Tom Woods HD 1310 shafts and so far so good for me, though I have not had it in long enough to fail or subjected it to the same amount of heavy driving, but it has done extended touring work without problem doing Hay River etc 12 months ago.

so Slunnie,,
whats the verdict nearly 12 months on,,,?

[Pedro_The_Swift]

How about these---



more parts!!
picked up the three ball joints, K5L4R, (which are greaseable)

$25 ea plus gst,,:D


Just arrived 3 hardy Spicer K5-a747 1300 series heavy duty uni's. These now come with grease nipples. :):) $41.62ea and 1 off SCV082B $52.00

Job on tonight to throw it back together.

Cheers


Pity I didnt get a pic of my SCV 082A
might make an interesting comparo Piddler:angel:


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/421.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/422.jpg

[ozscott]

Thanks Pedro - mate I saw your pics a while ago but I cannot picture the end ball joints with whats in the pic?...ohh I see they are the CVs...now I get it:)

[Ballas]

I'm wondering how everyone who has rebuilt their joints has gone? I have a 1999 Series @ Dico - just got back from a trip to the cape and the joint closest to the transfer case has gone (I'm pretty sure it's that one). I got the other end rebuilt last year and a greasable joint put in. Prior to the trip, I got new suspension all round, which made it a probaly 1-2" lift over stock.
If replacing the joints with greaseable versions is all good, then I'd definitely look at that (save myself quite a few hundred I would imagine), however if they have proved to fail again, I'll stick with the full shaft replacement and deal with it again when it breaks (have now done 235,000km, so should get another 100,000km?).

[shamirj]

Hi all - called cbc for a price on uni's for D2 2002 model td5 - quoted $20 each but stated Disco has four total uni on car according to their manual. I explained the front has a double cardan joint so thats two to start with plus the rear of the front that would = 3 for the front according to me and 2 at rear. Im getting big vibrations on the car between 75-80km/hr and am thinking its the uni on the front shaft and want to replace myself. Can someone explain to me how many do i need for the front and is the rears worth doing or not. Travelled 150k. seems like a straight fwd job removing and replacing. anything else worth changing while Im at it. cheers:)
At these prices front should only cost $40-$60 to fix an annoying wobble.

[MAD MAT]

just wondering what else can be stuffed when your front prop shaft lets go at speed / which mine has just done . in neautral on idle there is some terrible clunking going on . is it poss to stuff your gear box when this lets go /

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Yep,, and transfer case, and EVERYTHING else within its reach,,

Its something ALL D2 owners should be aware of,,,

[Grumpy]

JM is yours an auto or manual, I am trying to work out why I have a vibration comming through my gear stick in a maual with 140,00o ks. Prop shafts looks ok although I dont have exray vision.

Mike


Mike, The only way to check is to pull the prop shaft right off. My vibration was the double uni. thingnbobble that bolts onto the front output shaft. Go and see Kevin Falconbridge at Rovertec in Welshpool. He has modified service exchange units. Larger needles and grease nipples. Has them in stock.
Dont leave it, because if it lets go could be big moola!
Also, from memory you must engage the CDL if you drive it with out the front shaft. However, I stand to be corrected on that point.

Sorry, his phone number: 9356-5633

Tony

[BMKal]

Had mine overhauled at Hardie Spicer in Kal last week. No real problems experienced with it - but noticed the old "squeak, squeak" typical uni joint tell-tale sign recently whenever driving up the laneway behind my house.

Hardie's replaced joints with greasable units, balanced shaft, and painted it a nice blue colour. Very pretty.

[Xtreme]

I've read most of the posts and studied the tutorials on replacing the UJ's and am now in the middle of the job.

However, I'm having trouble getting the old ball kit out and would appreciate any tips that others have employed. Although everyone who has replaced this component agrees that it is not an easy job only Urban Panzer has detailed how he finally removed it. I've tried the slide hammer but unfortunately have not had the same success that Urban Panzer had. I'm reluctant to try the cold chisel and FBH as georgesadlik alluded to but may have to as a last resort.

I would like to get it all back together ASAP so would appreciate any advice from the guru's.

Thanks in advance.

[Landie_Addict]

Hi Roger,

I too was having trouble removing the ball joint :o until I got myself one of these doobies, which seems to be the perfect thing for the job!:)

It was quite tight so I can understand the slide hammer giving you grief.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/02/800.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/02/801.jpg

Only problem is it was $100 bucks! :o

You're welcome to borrow it if you haven't yet extracted the bearing!;)

[Xtreme]

Thanks for the reply and the offer Landy Addict.

After unsuccessfully trying a few other options, one of which was a home made puller along similar principles to your bought one but without the three pronged jaw, I finally had a driveshaft workshop remove it.

All is back together again now with greasable unis throughout.

BTW did you secure the jaws to the ball or to the outer sleeve?
If I ever have to do another one I'll be in touch with you - thanks again.

[Landie_Addict]

Well actually, by the time I bought the puller I was desperately running out of ideas and patience so I had cut the ball in half with a dremel tool and taken it out.:eek:... hoping it would make things easier...which it really didn't!:angel:

So all I had to pull out with this thing was the outer sleeve.

However, I checked and the jaws of the puller fit easily through the centre of the ball and I assume would grip the bottom of the ball if it was still in place.

[Xtreme]

That's interesting and probably just as well that you did cut the ball out first as I think that by pulling on the ball tends to force the outer sleeve and jamb in in tighter.

[CJT]

Well, I am now onto my third failure in 60,000km and this time I am doing the work myself.

I picked up a used shaft today for $20 with 2 good joints and one bad one, so I am replacing with a good joint from a spare tail shaft I have.

I will put this one in tomorrow and then order some new parts to build a whole fresh front shaft as others have been doing.

If I continue to have problems I will look at the Tom Woods Multiple Double Cardin front shaft.

[FenianEel]

Well, I am now onto my third failure in 60,000km and this time I am doing the work myself.

I picked up a used shaft today for $20 with 2 good joints and one bad one, so I am replacing with a good joint from a spare tail shaft I have.

I will put this one in tomorrow and then order some new parts to build a whole fresh front shaft as others have been doing.

If I continue to have problems I will look at the Tom Woods Multiple Double Cardin front shaft.

Forget that ****!
Take it to a truck repair place, they'll balance it and make it greaseable.
I'm sure there's some pretty decent ones around Caboolture.
Got mine done at Gibbs Truck Repairs Burleigh for $265.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/60501-d2-driveshaft-goes-bang-2.html
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/10/454.jpg

[CJT]

Forget that ****!
Take it to a truck repair place, they'll balance it and make it greaseable.
I'm sure there's some pretty decent ones around Caboolture.
Got mine done at Gibbs Truck Repairs Burleigh for $265.


Mine already looks like that.

I have already had my front shaft rebuilt 2 x times with heavy duty greasable joints, 1st time at 80,000km (Sep 2009), 2nd time at 110,000km (May 2010) and now again at 130,000km.

I have also replaced the rear rotoflex tail shaft with a rear shaft from a D1 with uni-uni arrangement.

As mentioned, I am now ordering from Hardy Spicer 2 x SCV-082B Centre Bearings and 10 x K5-A747 1300 Series Uni Joints . This will allow me to replace all 5 joints in my driveline, build a spare front shaft and have 2 x uni's and 1 x centre bearing as spares.

I will however find somewhere to get the 2 x fronts and 1 x rear shaft rebalanced.

Until I get around to the transfer case and install the CDL I need the spare front shaft to keep driving.

[CJT]

A few hours in the garage and here is the result and no more noises or vibrations from the disco and all for $20.00.

I used;

1 x used front drive shaft $20.00 (Jag and Rover Spares Newmarket)
1 x spare uni out of my old rear drive shaft

You would think the universal was a new item after I cleaned it up.

[Jeff]

I've just been through two shafts in a week. The first one went while towing my trailer through Bathurst, and pretty quickly developed from a vibration to a thumping. I got a new one freighted to Bathurst, this one made it home and to the Central Coast only to start vibrating. I limped home, and it got worse as I went. I was told by my Land Rover man in Brookvale, that is was one of a bad batch from Hardy-Spicer.

Jeff

:rocket:

[Pedro_The_Swift]

new Bike pics??:angel:

[cockie55]

I have a new D2 OEM DC front shaft stored away (ready to go into a lifted D1) and it seems a pity to do a greasable conversion in advance of getting some use out of it.

Does anyone have any thoughts on the part played by being under the AC condensate drain versus that part played by the sealed design in their rapid degredation as I would prefer to relocate the AC line (single uni on a D1 is outside the drip line, a DC is not) and give it a go???? Anyone got some results from doing a AC drain relocation and then fitting a new OEM DC shaft??

My imediate thought is that while condensate water on the DC is not helpful, failure primarly comes from their sealed/non-greasable design for this application?? This is on account relocation of the AC drain is not or very rarely mentioned in posts on this subject and I would have thought that would be the first thing to do??

[FenianEel]

Nearly every thread on here mentions the aircon drain. Most people have re-routed it, and I would say it is a necessity.
You are right in regards to the OEM shaft too.
If you have one, I'd use it. But it will go on you. As long as you keep an eye on it, it will be a good temporary solution, maybe for 50,000k, maybe 120,000k who knows? ;)

[landcol]

Hi sorry to jump in but Jeff who Is your land rover man in brookie?I'm starting to stress while slowing or even coasting around 40km I'm getting this terrible cracking noise like a stick has flicked up from underneath,one been told backlash but would this happen while cruising in school zone for instance'suggestions would be unreal

[Pedro_The_Swift]

jump under and have a look,,
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/discovery/9993d1218064500-d2-front-drive-shaft-problem-dscn2984a.jpg
if you see shiny bits--:(

[Jeff]

Hi sorry to jump in but Jeff who Is your land rover man in brookie?I'm starting to stress while slowing or even coasting around 40km I'm getting this terrible cracking noise like a stick has flicked up from underneath,one been told backlash but would this happen while cruising in school zone for instance'suggestions would be unreal

My Land Rover man is Ayers Automotive in Ada Ave. They have a website:

Ayers Automotive Pty Ltd (http://www.aauto.com.au/)

The clunking I had was under acceleration from slow and decellerating, if you were on light throttle it did not do it.

I got my new shaft on Friday and no problems so far, fingers crossed. I might fix one of the buggered ones and carry it as a spare.

Jeff

:rocket:

[landcol]

Thanks Jeff,I'm actually already one if their customers!booked in for next week get them to give it a good look

[nealo]

Chirp chirp chirp...squeak squeak...slight vibration under acceleration..oh crap!:mad:

Sure enough I climbed under the car and was greeted by shiny bits of UJ in the DC joint. My $30 3/8" air ratchet from Bunnings made getting the bolts undone alot easier.

After 140k km, and alot of beach work and gravel roads it was bound to happen sometime.

Having a look at the rubber boot that goes over the center bearing of the DC joint, it it a bit perished.

Does anyone know if it can be removed or replaced?

[mudder110]

same.thing.happened.to.mine.turn.on.your.air.con.a nd.see.where.the.air.con
drip.hose.drips.on.mine.driped.straight.on.the.knu ckel.
thats.what.stuffs.em.re.route.the.hose:)

[bluelightdisco]

yes i just got the same with mine chirp, chirp, chirp, clunk! but at 189000k i thought it was a pretty good effort to get it that far without detonating gonna pluck the shaft 2morrow and try to rebuild it

[nealo]

yes i just got the same with mine chirp, chirp, chirp, clunk! but at 189000k i thought it was a pretty good effort to get it that far without detonating gonna pluck the shaft 2morrow and try to rebuild it

I thought that too...but damn public holidays mean I will have to wait til Tues to get the new uni's

[Pedro_The_Swift]

I really doubt its the aircon,,

more to do with no grease for ten years:p

[bluelightdisco]

I really doubt its the aircon,,

more to do with no grease for ten years:p

i wholy agree with you pedro it was definately a design flaw thank god for aftermarket company's

[twodoors]

Well it was one of those jobs you always promise yourself to do!....
Land Rover Discovery V8 Year 2000, 125K. Lived a good life for its first 80K then we got her!!!

Thought I heard the chirpping of a very small and weak cricket....

Left it a bit longer and not many k's...

Had a look at the front prop shaft and noticed the slightest glimmer of shiny metal on an end cap where the circlip had managed to rotate....

Mmmm yup a job after nights!.. Just driving up the road at a snails pace due to roadworks and convincing myself .... It will be okay the prop shaft fairies will have fixed it in my sleep!... Silence became a Chirp which became an instant screech... Straight to Neutral...

A muffled bang....

Oh yeah the double carden failed.... Fortunately not a dimple in anything...

SO the moral of the story get under those trucks....

Now split the shaft and splines u/s also so.....

After numerous international phone calls due to silly pricing in Oz.... (900 - 1100 via L.R genuine suppliers)

Spoke to them and they were sooo helpful and knowledgable and couldn't give me enough info... So I've ordered a Tom WOODS extra length for lift, HD 5 point greasable...

Should be here by Thursday which would probably have broken even with a local supply anyway BUT at a better spec and price...

Will post a pic when she arrives.

James

[simonl8353]

Serviced the Disco at the weekend and have to say its a good feeling to pump the grease into the propshaft and to know the worrying "chirps" wont be visiting. ;)

I can only thank the previous owner for undertaking the DC modification.

[clubagreenie]

I've read over all the threads linked to this issue and it looks like the original shaft if I'm right only has one greasable uni and the unis aren't all replaceable (correct me on this if I'm wrong). he one thing I'm wondering is I had a 2dr RRC with a Borg Warner 3sp auto and t had a CV at the tfr end and a uni at the diff on the fnt tail shaft. Could never work it out as the gbox/tfr assy was moved back the length of the auto so there was more length but less angle. I had it replaced as it was painful to say the least. Mark at Allspares (yes that long ago) built me a shaft with a double uni but it didn't have the centre ball thing we seem to suffer with. These are clearly a different type of joint different but would they be any better/worse? It worked a treat and he apparently sourced the joint from a series or county of the time.

[Discobaker]

How do I tell if it's the DC that's on it's way out, it's full of grease, moves smoothly & there's no movement at all in any direction other than where it should be but driving my young fella to swimming thisarvo the noise was back, not anywhere near as bad & I just about had to hang my head out the window to hear it but it's there. Could I expect do you guys think to be hearing a similar noise from a front output bearing on the TC?
All seemed clean as a whistle when I had the front shaft out & the circlip adjoining the front of the TC looked fine? No metal filings in the TC oil when I changed it a few months back? Is there somewhere else I should be looking?
Cheers guys
Mat

[clubagreenie]

I've read over all the threads linked to this issue and it looks like the original shaft if I'm right only has one greasable uni and the unis aren't all replaceable (correct me on this if I'm wrong). he one thing I'm wondering is I had a 2dr RRC with a Borg Warner 3sp auto and t had a CV at the tfr end and a uni at the diff on the fnt tail shaft. Could never work it out as the gbox/tfr assy was moved back the length of the auto so there was more length but less angle. I had it replaced as it was painful to say the least. Mark at Allspares (yes that long ago) built me a shaft with a double uni but it didn't have the centre ball thing we seem to suffer with. These are clearly a different type of joint different but would they be any better/worse? It worked a treat and he apparently sourced the joint from a series or county of the time.

[aew849]

Mate's 2001 D2 (without difflock model!!) started making all the wrong noises. He sussed out the DC joint had excessive play and sourced spare uni's from Repco. Local LR specialist would only flog recon/new shafts for $650-750 ask.

After disassembly, two opposite end caps were dry, with no needle bearings and a great deal of wear on the end of the uni's. The Repco units were too big. Veale's in Belmont also held these but were same size as Repco. Fortunately they knew a model for 'older' LR's that were just the ticket.

One hour and $27 later, it was back on vehicle and he was mobile after a stuffed long weekend. He is keeping eye on the other units and the swivel bearing.

aew849

[Davetd5]

2003 D2a Td5, replaced the front shaft at 130,000km after it started vibrating around 60kph. $600 (trade) for a LR shaft with grease-able uni's.
I was told by the LR specialist that Hardy Spicer can fit a heavy duty DC from a Landcruiser to your shaft and balance it all for $800, apparently it never goes again. I have the old shaft still so I might look into this next time!

[Discobaker]

Ok, so if I firstly go the option of rebuilding it myself, considerably cheaper & I enjoy the change in work, does anyone know of somewhere in the Geelong region I can source the bearings? A part number maybe or is this gonna vary dependent on which DC joint I actually have?
Cheers
Mat

[Pedro_The_Swift]

hmm fairly sure this info is in TGO,,,
-----------------
most bearing places can supply these,
-----------------
Hardy Spicer will rebuild/supply parts

[Discobaker]

hmm fairly sure this info is in TGO,,,
-----------------
most bearing places can supply these,
-----------------
Hardy Spicer will rebuild/supply parts

Thanks Pedro, ur an asset for sure :)

[Defender Mike]

After 200,065 ks my front shaft has started to go. fortunately my wife heard it (Im deaf as a post). Yep sounds like crickets she says. Rover tech has them in stock in Perth modified and ready to fit around $600. I have grounded the disco until its fixed I have heard too many stories of them floging about and smashing things.

Mike:(

[twodoors]

After 200,065 ks my front shaft has started to go. fortunately my wife heard it (Im deaf as a post). Yep sounds like crickets she says. Rover tech has them in stock in Perth modified and ready to fit around $600. I have grounded the disco until its fixed I have heard too many stories of them floging about and smashing things.

Mike:(

Why not just drop the front prop shaft and drive it 2 wheel drive until you get the new one..... Its only 8 bolts...

James

[twodoors]

2003 D2a Td5, replaced the front shaft at 130,000km after it started vibrating around 60kph. $600 (trade) for a LR shaft with grease-able uni's.
I was told by the LR specialist that Hardy Spicer can fit a heavy duty DC from a Landcruiser to your shaft and balance it all for $800, apparently it never goes again. I have the old shaft still so I might look into this next time!

OR get a Tom WOODS from the States for $600.... (5 days door to door)) With 5 grease points... VERY happy with my new one!

James

[Defender Mike]

Ive got a spare ute so dont need it for a day. I can get the same as tom wood here in Perth 5 grease points etc and they are only 5ks from my place. Now if i was down the beach and had to get home yes i would drop it out lock in the CDL and drive home. :)

[wozzlegummich]

Over the last month or so the Discoverange (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/104113-discoverange.html) (D2 mechanicals with Classic Range Rover body) was becoming slightly rough on accel. The driveline also had developed a "chirpy-chirp" on coast over the last few days. Sound familiar? Made a mental note to stick my head under to see what's up on the weekend.

On the way to work at 5.45AM there's loud bang and bad vibration. Limped back home.

DC front uni had broken it's cups. Wish I had read this thread before!!

Went to Burson's and they sold me 3 greaseable uni's for $23 each. Thought this is gonna be easy. Guess what? wrong uni's.

Question: Where in Melbourne do I get 3 uni's on a Saturday morning without having to hand over a vital organ?

Cheers, Wozz

P.S. Have engaged CDL manually and it drives SOOOOOOOO smoothly now without the front shaft fitted. Must have been going for some time.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

any bearing place should have them,,

[wozzlegummich]

Question: Where in Melbourne do I get 3 uni's on a Saturday morning without having to hand over a vital organ?

To answer my own question - AMV in Ringwood $27 each.

[twodoors]

Over the last month or so the Discoverange (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/104113-discoverange.html) (D2 mechanicals with Classic Range Rover body) was becoming slightly rough on accel. The driveline also had developed a "chirpy-chirp" on coast over the last few days. Sound familiar? Made a mental note to stick my head under to see what's up on the weekend.

On the way to work at 5.45AM there's loud bang and bad vibration. Limped back home.

DC front uni had broken it's cups. Wish I had read this thread before!!

Went to Burson's and they sold me 3 greaseable uni's for $23 each. Thought this is gonna be easy. Guess what? wrong uni's.

Question: Where in Melbourne do I get 3 uni's on a Saturday morning without having to hand over a vital organ?

Cheers, Wozz

P.S. Have engaged CDL manually and it drives SOOOOOOOO smoothly now without the front shaft fitted. Must have been going for some time.


Hope you were as lucky as me and no collateral damage...

James

[Davetd5]

Can anyone provide a link to where I would purchase one?
Thanks

[wozzlegummich]

Just took a small bite out of the DC carrier. Fitted the new uni's this arvo and all is sweet. The car has never driven so smoothly in all the time I have owned it. Must have been going for a long time.

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

[twodoors]

Can anyone provide a link to where I would purchase one?
Thanks


Either google tom woods usa
or Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist (http://www.4XSHAFT.COM)

James

[Defender Mike]

Lucky WA owners can get a repacement /exchange shaft from kevin at Rover tech Jordan for $600. I replaced mine this week took 30 mins to do during my lunch break. The shaft is rebuilt by a local company using greasable unis that are machined and fitted with larger needle bearings. I am very happy with this unit the disco is smooth as silk again.:)
I am sure they could send them over East if required ,a bit easier than getting one from the States. Unlike Julia Gilliard I think we can do things better here than they do in the USA anyday.

Mike

[twodoors]

Lucky WA owners can get a repacement /exchange shaft from kevin at Rover tech Jordan for $600. I replaced mine this week took 30 mins to do during my lunch break. The shaft is rebuilt by a local company using greasable unis that are machined and fitted with larger needle bearings. I am very happy with this unit the disco is smooth as silk again.:)
I am sure they could send them over East if required ,a bit easier than getting one from the States. Unlike Julia Gilliard I think we can do things better here than they do in the USA anyday.

Mike


Just wondered....Do they have a greaseable centre bearing as well?.... Also woods arent an exchange unit they are totally up-spec, custom built extended shaft and having seen the product understand why they are so highly rated for extreme performance/abuse both states and elsewhere..

Not sure how it would be easier.... send email order/phone... pay... receive item...

Sadly I do have to question " I think we can do things better here than they do in the USA anyday.".....

Postal service being 1) As...Think it would be more a question of postal time!!! Still waiting for a part from sydney ordered 2 days before the usa supplied part!...

James

[clubagreenie]

Hmmm, on the Aus v US.

Tyres from tyre rack, 4 days, $50- ea freight.

Same from Bridgestone, 7-10 days (melb/Syd) +$25- each.

Totalper tyre incl freight 28% less than Bridgestone cost not incl freight

[Discobaker]

Did everyone else except me know there are 3 grease points on a serviceable DC joint?
Found out today there's another one that greases the centre ball & it requires a needle attachment for the grease gun to get to it.

[wozzlegummich]

Did everyone else except me know there are 3 grease points on a serviceable DC joint?

I thought that one was for the slip joint. Do explain!!

[Discobaker]

Speaking to a fella about Tom Woods prop shafts, they have two standard nipples, one forward, one back & then in the centre there's a "needle" grease point to service the ball in the centre too. Some have produced greasable DC joints but failed to add the grease point for the centre ball. I'm writing this as I sit on the side of the road waiting for a tow as my DC has failed!!!!!!
Stopped before it smashed my gearbox, telltale vibration that got consistently worse until I pulled the pin & pulled over. I don't have the coin for a new gearbox too!!!

[twodoors]

Did everyone else except me know there are 3 grease points on a serviceable DC joint?
Found out today there's another one that greases the centre ball & it requires a needle attachment for the grease gun to get to it.

Yes... Thats one of the selling points..... Plus the bright orange needle grease attachment gave me a subtle reminder!

James

[cjc_td5]

Replaced the UJs on my double carden joint today.

Vehicle is a D2a, TD5 Auto, 147,000km on the clock. It has "standard height" replacement Kings springs, installed about 20,000km ago. Has had little off road use in its life unfortunately (owned it since new).

The vehicle developed a fine vibration in the last week or so, which started to get really noticable late last week. The vibration would be at 50-60km/h, most noticable on over-run throttle. It would still vibrate if I slipped the transfer into neutral so I knew it was prop shafts/diff, wheels etc.

The carden joint had no play when I wriggled it when still installed and showed no signs of distress externally.

When I removed it from the vehicle though it definately had restricted movement in one plane.

Today I replaced the two UJs with new units, the centre bearing appeared fine so I repacked it and reinstalled it. Only one UJ bearing cap had completely dried out and broken down, the grease had dried to a black powder and the inner bearing surface lost all of its hard facing surface but all of the needle rollers were still there.

The UJs were Matsuba 2275-B (344), about $66 total from my local bearing shop.

I now have two more greasable UJs to keep happy with a bit of grease periodically.

Cheers,
Chris

[Discobaker]

So this "perfect" 2nd hand prop shaft turns up today & it's in worse condition than the one I'm replacing!!!
Bloody Hell!
Tom Woods shaft ordered, pro comp in melb, thankyou, bye bye $600+ courier.
Gonna rebuild the centre ball in my original one & try & get some funds back that way. Money pit getting extremely shallow & the GLW's patience is in just as much trouble.
With what I've read on here about Tom Woods shafts, greasable at a total of 5 points along the shaft, I'm tipping I won't need to keep a spare.
PM if anyone is interested & I'll get it done ASAP.
Cheers guys

[Discobaker]

Replaced the UJs on my double carden joint today.

Vehicle is a D2a, TD5 Auto, 147,000km on the clock. It has "standard height" replacement Kings springs, installed about 20,000km ago. Has had little off road use in its life unfortunately (owned it since new).

The vehicle developed a fine vibration in the last week or so, which started to get really noticable late last week. The vibration would be at 50-60km/h, most noticable on over-run throttle. It would still vibrate if I slipped the transfer into neutral so I knew it was prop shafts/diff, wheels etc.

The carden joint had no play when I wriggled it when still installed and showed no signs of distress externally.

When I removed it from the vehicle though it definately had restricted movement in one plane.

Today I replaced the two UJs with new units, the centre bearing appeared fine so I repacked it and reinstalled it. Only one UJ bearing cap had completely dried out and broken down, the grease had dried to a black powder and the inner bearing surface lost all of its hard facing surface but all of the needle rollers were still there.

The UJs were Matsuba 2275-B (344), about $66 total from my local bearing shop.

I now have two more greasable UJs to keep happy with a bit of grease periodically.

Cheers,
Chris

I've removed all the circlips & the tutorial I found calls for a specific uni tool to push the pins out to remove, did you have this when you rebuilt yours or is there another option/procedure you'd be happy to fill me in with?
Cheers
Mat

[Discobaker]

So I've just replaced with a Tom Woods drive shaft, the bloody crickets are still there!!! Alot quieter but still there. What else could it be? Almost sounds like a diff whine. I'll drop the oil in the diffs & see how that goes. front output bearing on the TC?
Cheers guys

[clubagreenie]

Seems obvious but could it be the rear?

[Discobaker]

I guess it could be but it definitly sounds like is coming from up front rather than rear.
Time for a closer look I guess.
Cheers mate

[cjc_td5]

I've removed all the circlips & the tutorial I found calls for a specific uni tool to push the pins out to remove, did you have this when you rebuilt yours or is there another option/procedure you'd be happy to fill me in with?
Cheers
Mat

Hi there Discobaker,
I use my bench vice as a press with a socket just small enough to push the cup through and a large socket on the other side that will allow to cup to slide out of the carrier and through inside it.

Urban Panzer uses a similar method to press in the new UJs in his tutorial here www.discovery2.co.uk / Workshop :- front and Rear propshaft (http://www.discovery2.co.uk/propshafts.html) (about half way through the tute).

I have never had much luck with the FBH approach. It tends to just bind the UJ in the carrier and jam everything up.

The pain with the centre carden joint is that it does not have a square face to press against. I had to use a screw driver wedged on one side to square up the faces so that the vice would push them in squarely.

I have done this prop shaft and all of the UJs on my Series 1 restoration this way.

Hope this is helpful.
Cheers,
Chris

[Discobaker]

Thanks Chris
Much appreciated

[twodoors]

Mate, As the Tom Woods is an upgrade you may have been so dazzled with its features and missed the fact the yoke is bigger.... Check to see if it is catching on the heat plate of the exhaust at the front joint.... The knuckle will probably b a bit shiny..... Just leaver the shield away by a cm or 2... Mine was just catching when the vehicle was turning and made the same tinny chirp as the failing uj did!
James

[Discobaker]

James I will certainly double check that but I'm sure I checked everything was clear of the shaft. A few months back I ended up with a stone between the cat & the heatshield/protector plate & bent ut up a little doing some "panel beating" to remove the stone.
Thanks for your thoughts:)
Mat

[twodoors]

James I will certainly double check that but I'm sure I checked everything was clear of the shaft. A few months back I ended up with a stone between the cat & the heatshield/protector plate & bent ut up a little doing some "panel beating" to remove the stone.
Thanks for your thoughts:)
Mat

Best of luck.... Strange thing was when the vehicle was going straight it was well clear, but on turns to the right in particular it caught... James

[Discobaker]

Best of luck.... Strange thing was when the vehicle was going straight it was well clear, but on turns to the right in particular it caught... James

WTF?? Strange indeed, guess I'd better check there's a little extra clearance then to allow for more sideways movement?
I would have thought it'd stay pretty straight but hey, they are LR's!
Anythings possible lol
Cheers James
Mat

[mattg]

HI

I Have 2 new greasable UJ in my drive shaft and 2 old or original ones. When I greased them tonight with all 4 wheels in the air the newer ones had a good ooze on all 4 seals but the older ones only oozed on 2 seals. should I replace the old ones as well?

also one of the newer ones had creamy grease ooze out. have done a few water crossings and possibly more tomorrow, good thing I checked this tonight. I will do them again after the weekends fun.

Cheers

Matt

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Matt,,
was it just the colour or a consistancy problem?

[Discobaker]

I was taught that u just keep pumping till you see fresh grease purge from the joint & then give it another couple for good luck. At the end of the day, grease is only about $5 a canister.

[Hay Ewe]

Evening All

just read the whole thread and did not see and reference to the lubeing of the shaft splines itself.

there is the 1/4" UNF nipple to install, pump and then remove, but has any body pulled the shaft apart to clean the old grease and dirt out?

is it possible to pull the shaft apart like an agricultural PTO?

what grease are you using?
I intend to use Thixogrease

whilst pumping new grease in to it comes out, purging, this doesn't get all the old grease out and in some cases can cause a reaction between the grease to the point of metal failure (not the whole cause but an MD80 Alaskan Airways crashed off California due grease intermixing)

I am considering pulling the front prop shaft and doing the job on the DC joint and if taking out off that far, sliding the shaft apart and cleaning it and repacking with new grease

Hay Ewe

[Redback]

OK another report on my front shaft, after replacing mine at 150,000ks for the 3rd time with the greasable unis on the double carden this time, with 275,000ks on the clock, it has failed, BUT, this time it's the single uni on the diff that has failed:) the double carden, by eye anyway, looks fine, amazing really, so there ya go, a good news story for greasable unis on the double carden:D

Baz.

[Tombie]

Both of the replacement Factory but Greaseable front shafts on my D2 have failed...

Thats 3 shafts in 135,000 km

The upgraded Hardy Spicer on the Defender is still going strong I believe (BlkNight ???)

The D2 is now getting a 1310 upgrade.

[clintox]

woohoo
I can finnally join this club as of 1100 this morning
145700km's
4.6ltr
2"lift
alot of 4wding
question is is this fixable or do I need a new shaft

[Tombie]

Get a Tom Woods shaft and all you'll need to do from then on is lube your nipples...

[clintox]

well got a couple of quotes in. hardy spicer HD unit was around the $630 mark so looks like i'm getting a woody, Tom Woods have emailed them for shipping cost but I'd imagine ill be in-front still.
cheers guys good reading this thread

[Psimpson7]

Shipping was around $200 when I emailed them a while back. I ended up grabbing one from Procomp (JeepKonnection) in Melbourne as it was only about 80$ more and they got it to me for the next day.

[twodoors]

Get a Tom Woods shaft and all you'll need to do from then on is lube your nipples...



X2...

VERY HAPPY with mine not too sure about the baseball cap they sent "I've got a Woody"


James

[russ55]

I also have joined the Club. 187000klms and only been lifted (45mm) about 2 months. Probably accelerated the problem.

Psimpson7- what length or model/part number did you get??

[russ55]

Paid $580 Jeep Konection Hallam.
Very impressive.

[Disco EMU]

Here's mine ... just installed by Roving Mechanical (Syd) for $280 inc' labour.

The old one didn't fail ... just wanted to replace it before it did.

Very happy and impressed with Peter, his knowledge and product. :D

[beanie_205]

Needed to have mine rebuilt at 245k, heard a chirping noise and sure enough the unis were shot. Anyone needing a propshaft job in Darwin could talk to Driveline in Palmerston, David was a great bloke and did a good job- rebuilt with heavy duty greaseable unis for $300. Ph 08 8935 9180. I had a 45mm lift done 15 months ago, but at 245k and after some salt water action I think it's fair enough.

[OffTrack]

Just spoke to a crew in Nth Melbourne about getting the front prop shaft rebuilt, and they were reluctant to quote without sighting the shaft.

The concern they had was that DC centring pin on the LR shafts can wear quite badly, and replacement increases the cost of the job significantly. Ballpark costing was $250 if it was simply a matter of putting a kit in, to $600+ if the centring pin required replacement.

Most posts on rebuilding don't mention checking the state of the centring pin, so perhaps a worn pin could be a factor in the apparently short lifespan of some rebuilds?

[robertk61]

Mine started to vibrate slightly on Wednesday, and then got a LOT worse this morning, so I crawled under and sure enough, it was stuffed .Failed at exactly 190000ks, and without any warning whatsoever (I am a mechanic by trade, so I am pretty vigilant). Pulled it out this arvo and luckily I have a CDL installed so I could drive it home.
Tom Woods shaft on order (Procomp) and should be in by tomorrow night.
2 inch lift and not much off roading or towing since I have had the car.

[Andrew D]

Just joined the club....yippie.

Job for next weekend. (128k on a 2003 V8. 95% city car).

Do you think I can clock up another 300 km before changing or is that pushing my luck.

Regards
Andrew

[BigJon]

Pushing your luck. Don't even try.

[Fluids]

Uh, no. :(

It's a 2003 ... pull the shaft and lock the centre diff ... or it could be the most expensive <300km you'll ever travel.

[Andrew D]

Driving around with the front shaft out in Brisbane for week. Will this be Ok?

Up to 80 km/hr or not recommended.

Regards
Andrew

[Fluids]

Should be fine. Just no playing boy racer with that V8 going through ONE diff ... drive sensibly, 80kmhr will be fine.

Just remember that the back diff is now sucking up all that the V8 is putting out instead of only 1/2.

[disco_disco]

I'm wanting to order the Tom Wood's Mulitple Double Cardon Shaft.
is there a specidied length shaft i should ask for ?

[Discobaker]

I'm wanting to order the Tom Wood's Mulitple Double Cardon Shaft.
is there a specidied length shaft i should ask for ?

the length your shaft needs to be will be dependent on the height of your Disco, if it's standard height all round as mine is, its a straight swap over shaft, i got mine from Pro Comp in Melbourne-03 8795 7766, spoke with a fella called Henry, $600 delivered to my door. 12 months warranty, the first one i got was actually out of balance, i changed it over to a mates D2 & sure enough the vibration was there at 95kms. Rang Henry & described what was going on & there was another on my doorstep within a day or two. Great guys to deal with. I'm not %100 sure but if your Disco has been lifted, the heights will need to be specified & its possible you might have to have one custom made.
Hope this helps.

[Slunnie]

I'm wanting to order the Tom Wood's Mulitple Double Cardon Shaft.
is there a specidied length shaft i should ask for ?

I would order the multiple double cardin direct from Tom - Procomp wont carry that on the shelf I wouldn't have thought. You will have to get under there with a tape measure, it doesn't take long. The front should be something around 620mm.

[Discobaker]

Multiple DC? Does this describe a DC joint at both ends of the shaft? My Woody has a DC at the TC end & a single uni at the end where it bolts to the front diff. Slip joint in the centre. What benefits are there to a multiple DC shaft?
Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[disco_disco]

Hi the problem i have is I will be putting a 3" lift in the car.
At the same time i want to change the shaft over as a precautionary measure.
So measuring without a lift may be giving me the wrong length?
Slunnie
was 620mm for a standard height car ?

[Pedro_The_Swift]

not much standard about slunnies:p
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/80040-show-us-your-d2.html

[disco_disco]

Yes just realised his is far from stock having looked through his website photos.
Slunnie
i noticed you have upgraded both shafts to the Tom Woods shafts. do you think this is a better path to go down rather than just doing the front shaft ?
If anybody else has done this please feel free to comment.

[Psimpson7]

Disco_Disco, you may be ok with the standard length D2 front shaft they sell. Ours has a 2" lift and I run the TW off the shelf option from procomp.

If you do need a different length it will have to go direct. Just provide them with the lengths they show on the website

[disco_disco]

Thanks mate, although from what iv'e been told the standard length won't work as the angle will be to great because of the +3" i am putting in.

[Andrew D]

Just joined the club....yippie.

Job for next weekend. (128k on a 2003 V8. 95% city car).

Do you think I can clock up another 300 km before changing or is that pushing my luck.

Regards
Andrew

All repaired. Didn't have time to do it myself.

Costs: $271 at Hardy Spicer Eagle Farm & $88 for the mechanic on Schneider Rd & Kingsford Smith Dr to remove and replace.

Parts Used: K5-A757(front), K5-L4R x2 (rear) & SCV-082A. SCV-082B might be for the earlier models.

Quote by usual mechanic for $800 and $1200 from LR.

Very noticeable backlash even when driving in Daisy mode with the front shaft out so minimised my travel (maybe 30km) with the shaft out and CDL engaged.

Symptoms (for front drive shaft): Vibration in the steering wheel at various speeds, no noises.

Happy days.

Regards
Andrew

[Chilly]

Joined the club too......210000ish. 2000 V8.

Car new to me but from what previous owner has said no off roading. Pinch of salt

Some by me over the last five to six weeks.

No Noise or vibration.

Thankfully just looking around after Friday's off road day!!

What do people recommend...

Complete overhaul or just replace the UJ's?

Where to get the UJ's?

Would like to replace with heavy duty ones.

Cheers,
Chilly

[Andrew D]

Chilly,

Don't you like reading.

Take it out and drop it off at Hardy Spicer. (or someone who repairs drivelines)

If there's no excessive play in the shaft (not the UJs) they will replace the UJ.

Pick-up the next day and put in back in.

End of story.

That's will set you back about $300 clams.

No need to replace the whole shaft if there's nothing wrong with the spline.

Regards
Andrew

[Toppa]

if you want to do it yourself....

I found the heavy duty greasable hardy spicer UJ at CBC bearings for $20 each. Considering I thought my transfer case was blown....it was very cheap alternative.

the part numbers on Urban Panzas site are a little old for the Hardie SPicer UJ

they now are K5-L4R (1300 series)

Get yourself a good set of circlip pliers if your old UJ's have the old circlips. These new UJ's use pointy nose pliers to instal and remove the circlip

After doing mine.....no more vibrations!!!!!:D

here (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/61452-d2-prop-shaft-secrets-ujs-double-cardan-joints.html) is the link to Urban Panzas shaft rebuild

happy rebuilding.

[Chilly]

Chilly,

Don't you like reading.
Read all 19 pages...thanks
Take it out and drop it off at Hardy Spicer. (or someone who repairs drivelines)
Why? Can repair myself. O and where are Hardy Spicer where I live?
If there's no excessive play in the shaft (not the UJs) they will replace the UJ.
Not paying someone else
Pick-up the next day and put in back in.
Do it in the morning myself...put in back in
End of story.
Sure is...or is it
That's will set you back about $300 clams.
No!
No need to replace the whole shaft if there's nothing wrong with the spline.
No there is no need to replace...however there is talk of other shafts which are stronger!!
Regards
Andrew
Ta


After reading all 19 pages and other posts it is easy to get confused..and being a great site...it is good for the help given to clear the mud in the head.

New UJ's purchased and will be fitted tomorrow morning

Thanks all

[clubagreenie]

The stronger shafts mentioned are the Tom Woods shafts. Around $600- but a moce better shaft, but only a consideration when you have lift plus some other driveline upgrades (lockers etc) making the shaft the weakest link. Probably time to reroute the A/C drains while yo're under there, my shaft at 215000 is great considering the drama stories I keep reading but I grease it regularly and have both drains moved. he Drivers Side drips onto the shaft but the Pass Side drips onto the auto XYZ switch killing it, so thats a consideration if you're auto.

[torxmaster]

Hey all

I posted this in the thread: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/118174-td5-vibration-im-close-9.html

It can be informative for you also!

Hey guys!

I saw this thread when I was looking for a new propshaft - again.. This is what happened:

I have a Disco 2 2003 TD5 Auto with the original front propshaft going strong after 18000km. It had a mild vibration though but I could drive as fast as the TD5 could push it and the car was running super smooth. The mild vibration occurred at around 100km/h(60mph) and I wanted replace it because of the milage and to cure the vibration..

I searched around the net trying to find the right part, I was a little cheap to buy the TVB000220 part and was hoping to find someone that have tested the TVB000110 part. Finally I found someone on the net that had done what I had in mind. I ordered the TVB000110 and when it arrived I saw that it was a "Britpart". I changed the shaft and put 8 new bolts on and gave it a spin;

The whole car started to vibrate bad at around 120km/h! I tried to change the yoke angle 45 degrees (as on my old one) but the problem persisted. I have been driving it for 3months now (under 120km/h) and yesterday the centerball in the double cardan broke. The car vibrates, rattles and is undrivable.. After 3months?? Is it Britpart, wrong part or lemonpart?

Im buying the TVB000220 now, here in Sweden a rebuild cost the same as buying the part from England.

Question; What brand is the genuine propshaft? Is Hardy Spicer better than Britpart?

Anyway, to add my part of the discussion, see if you have another propshaft than recommended on your car..

By the way, I lived in Sydney 2003 and studied at UTS. I had a really good time and I would like to go back sometime!

Regards,
Carl

[Andrew D]

Carl

Not exactly sure but did the shaft need to be re-balanced. This could be your probelm.

Regards
Andrew

[AB303]

Yes just realised his is far from stock having looked through his website photos.
Slunnie
i noticed you have upgraded both shafts to the Tom Woods shafts. do you think this is a better path to go down rather than just doing the front shaft ?
If anybody else has done this please feel free to comment.

Hi
Fitted a Tom Woods front shaft a couple of years ago after trying another manufactures H/duty DC joint that had terrible vibration problems. I highly recommend the TW shaft.

[Nanna Truck]

Having assisted at a D2 roadside recovery due to a broken front shaft Carden joint and later talking to a D2A owner who had the Carden joint collapse at speed ($8,000) decided to inspect mine. Second uni in the joint absolutely (@$#ted). Rang Adelaide branch of hardy Spicer and was advised they do not stock the centre ball for the standard D2 shaft. They quoted $722.00 to replace the joint with a HD unit and balance the shaft. TR Spares at Lonsdale no longer supply the parts to repair the D2 shafts due to comeback & balance issues. Purchased a standard S/H D2A shaft from them. (They have sold 6 this week!!!!).
Vehicle has done 133,000km, very little off road. Suspension standard. Approx third total km,s towing a caravan. Never had a hard days work in it's life. Is it time now for Pedro to collate all the info in this thread and give us some direction?
Regards
Harry

[Bundalene]

We fitted standard greasable unis into our Disco at 30,000kms, pump in a bit of grease after heavy rain and when the service is due. Just clocked 300,000kms with no problems, still with the same unis.

We have a reasonable lift and have done heaps of off road, but not the extreme stuff the likes of Slunnie do though.

Erich

[Piriaka]

Hi

Anyone got contact detals for Tom Woods shafts suppliers?

Regards

Ray

[mturri]

Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Landrover Application (http://www.4xshaft.com/Landrover.html)

tom@tomscds.com

[Andrew D]

Having assisted at a D2 roadside recovery due to a broken front shaft Carden joint and later talking to a D2A owner who had the Carden joint collapse at speed ($8,000) decided to inspect mine. Second uni in the joint absolutely (@$#ted). Rang Adelaide branch of hardy Spicer and was advised they do not stock the centre ball for the standard D2 shaft. They quoted $722.00 to replace the joint with a HD unit and balance the shaft. TR Spares at Lonsdale no longer supply the parts to repair the D2 shafts due to comeback & balance issues. Purchased a standard S/H D2A shaft from them. (They have sold 6 this week!!!!).
Vehicle has done 133,000km, very little off road. Suspension standard. Approx third total km,s towing a caravan. Never had a hard days work in it's life. Is it time now for Pedro to collate all the info in this thread and give us some direction?
Regards
Harry

Sounds like you were fed a fair bit of horse poo and poor service. Had mine completed for $277 by Hardy Spicer in Brisbane not so long ago.

I would be annoyed if I was in your shoes. Nothing wrong with the shaft in my rig after the bearing change.

Regards
Andrew

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Is it time now for Pedro to collate all the info in this thread and give us some direction?
Regards
Harry

I'm sorry about your shaft Harry,,
but LOTS of others have had repairs done by Hardy Spicer and been good.



Since the very start of The Good Oil, its been a repository of solutions from members,,

I dont own TGO or decide which is the correct solution to the problem, I just cut and paste;).

If you think a certain post SHOULD be in TGO, PM me or just post your recommendations, :D

I am the second keeper of TGO,,
Maybe time to step aside,,
Somebody else want to have a go??;):D
(position comes with a good seat in the Mods Pen overlooking the pool and close to the fridge;))

[Nankas]

At 201,000k's near the end of a 17,000k trip towing the camper noticed a vibration coming through the wheel and floor at around 95kmh it rapidly got worse and vibrations were being felt at 60km/h, 80km/h.

Upon inspection underneath everything looked ok however the DC joint was hot to touch. Removed the shaft and found 2 of the joints were stiff. Now have a new prop shaft with greasable unis.

I was surprised at how quickly the DC joint deteriorated.

Because i was 1200k's from home i had the shaft replaced. If anyone needs a front shaft to make up a spare with new uni's you can have it. Pick up from east Bentleigh in Vic.

[Rocky88]

All of you guys who ordered tom woods shaft from jeep konnection, did you get Conventional Double Cardan or Multiple Double Cardan?

Also it hasn't been really answered yet how much lift you can run with the standard length off-the shelf shaft. I currently have standard ride height with 2" higher tyres but want to keep my options open for 2" lift sometime in the future

[Psimpson7]

Conventional Double Cardon

re lengths - In an email to me from TW (assuming refering to a std height car):

We build the drive shaft to achieve a nominal 2” for compression. At that point, you still have 4.5” of spline engagement with the slip yoke. This is far more than the factory original drive shaft would have had.



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/10/721.jpg

EDITED TO ADD: We have a 2" lift in ours.

[lost]

Hi all, it seems I have joined the front driveshaft club. The "singing" from the front of the vehicle was not an idler pulley bearing as I had thought. So need some advice. I have had the driveshaft removed and sent to driveshaft specialist by a non LR specialist mechanic. I have been told today that they are unable to rebuild as too much wear in the uni cup. Options are:
1. New genuine $1400 (non available in Australia)
2. Find a driveshaft specialist who can rebuild in Brisbane
3. Second Hand $400 (non available in Brisbane)
4. Modified series 1 driveshaft from MR - although have been warned about possible vibration issues.
5. non genuine from ebay $450

Any thoughts would be appreciated, have picked up TD5 and I am driving it with the centre difflock engaged. How long or how far can I drive it like this? Have crawled underneath and noticed that the driveshaft bolts are still in place but no nuts attached.

[clubagreenie]

One solution, woods shaft from Jeep Konnection on Melb $600- delivered

[Psimpson7]

One solution, woods shaft from Jeep Konnection on Melb $600- delivered

x1000

[Husky]

Hi All

I just bought a 2003 TD5 from Sydney with 200k on the clock, all services done by a Landrover dealer !!

I arived home and started to do a service and have a good look around, Under bonnet and under car only to realise the front drive shaft had way to much movement I had a mechanic replace the uni's

The 2 uni's in the cardan joint had been replaced at some time with greaseable ones but they had never seen grease at all one of them was half worn through ( not sure how I got home from Sydney )

I guess what I am trying to say is even if you don't do your own services it pays to have a look at your car every now and then,
Don't rely on others thinking they are doing everything

[infrno]

I'm well and truly in the front drive shaft club as well. I had some vibration developing in the car and reading up on some forums had a look at the front drive shaft and it had chipped some bits off.. at that point the car had done 115,000k's so, pulled it out and shopped around for a replacement. Genuine replacement was way out of my budget at the time so I went with a "highly recommended" britparts shaft which had all the greasing points etc and was meant to be way better than OEM on it for about $500ish I think it was. 10,000's later and I've got vibration again at about 115 - 120k's and chirping when I'm reversing.

Jump under the truck tonight to grease it all up, haven't done any real offroad work, some fast dirt roads, maybe 200k's all up, and did the DC and shaft, but then when I went to do the front joint the grease point was finger tight... Probably should have checked it when I put it in, but you know... you'd think that should be done right out of the box. Couldn't get my grease gun onto the grease point, so I figured it had to come out and get done right.

Once it was out, I found the squeak (like a kids swing going back and forth) was coming from the centre ball - dry as. The front single UJ was also dry as and really lumpy...

Going to be going back to the shop I got it from in Adelaide and seeing what they suggest - having only done 10,000 of pretty soft driving I'm not overly impressed, especially since I'm heading up to the Flinders next week for some camping.

Will get some pics up and let you know how I go tomorrow with their answers.

If they aren't any good in helping me get this fixed - I'm thinking Tom Woods.

2002 update V8, no lift... yet.

[Wasa57]

Hi Inferno, an alarming story, has your a/c outlet been moved from over the dc joint?

[infrno]

I don't believe it has been, one of the things to do on the re-fit tomorrow night hopefully... that would explain the ball being dry perhaps, but not the UJ at the front being lumpy... see what tomorrow brings.

[Slunnie]

Once it was out, I found the squeak (like a kids swing going back and forth) was coming from the centre ball - dry as. The front single UJ was also dry as and really lumpy...

If they aren't any good in helping me get this fixed - I'm thinking Tom Woods.


Good catch on the shaft.

It's difficult because almost all shafts, including the greasable DC shafts in 1300 and 1310 size still don't have greaseable centre bearings. I think that when these go, they also take out the standard sized 1300uni joints, but the 1310's seem to be able to wear it for a while. If you do go Tom Woods shaft, his are now cast steel for the Disco2 to give it stength as he now makes the centre bearing also greasable. With this yolk, you also don't need an adaptor now. I've had one of these in for a while and they last.

[infrno]

So, took the shaft back to the guys I got it from.. they checked it all out and weren't happy with the squeak and couldn't think of how to get rid of it. They had another one sitting in their shop which they checked out and let me have. I've fitted it up and the swing set squeak is gone, so check one - will see how it goes on the run to Berri tomorrow and let you know how if the vibration is gone..

[infrno]

Did a 600'ish k round trip today to Berri and back with the new shaft in - no more swing set squeak and the vibration through the drive train was much less. Still think I need to look at the rotoflex, but, so far all is well on the front shaft end.

Didn't want to name names until I knew how things were looking to turn out, but I have to say that guys at Sovereign have done me well at the moment.

[OffTrack]

It's worth having a read of this thread at LandyZone:
LandyZone - Land Rover Forum (http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f16/big-debate-britpart-****part-102232.html)

Britpart and high quality don't belong in the same sentence.

[infrno]

I'll have to keep a close eye / feel on it and budget on a TW soon!

[firthy]

Given the symptoms I think i have the problem too. I tried to remove the front drive shaft today and engage the CDL so it could be driven to be tested, but couldn't get bloody bolts out. Roverland looking at it Friday. But, on a side note it's good to know my Disco 2 has CDL.

[OffTrack]

I know every one is pretty keen on the Tom Woods shafts but has anyone used one of the Les Richmond Shafts?

Front HD Propshaft (http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/contents/en-us/d3147.html)

[Rok_Dr]

It looks very similar to the picture on the tom woods website. Perhaps the same?

Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Landrover Application (http://www.4xshaft.com/Landrover.html)

[OffTrack]

It looks very similar to the picture on the tom woods website. Perhaps the same?

Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Landrover Application (http://www.4xshaft.com/Landrover.html)

You are right. Identical down to the gold seal universals.

[clubagreenie]

And yet dearer than importing direct or from Jeep Konnection

[firthy]

My Disco is back on the road and feels brand new with the replacement drive shaft. All thanks to Roverland Ferntree Gully. Top job and fantastic service. I highly recommend.

[Rocky88]

Heads up to anyone interested in getting a tom woods shaft, jeepkonnection (procomp) is about to get 15 of them from the states, $580 + postage. I already have mine ordered :)

[Krayzie Keegs]

Hey all I noticed not long after fitting a 50mm lift i was getting front end shake, first call was front porp this was disconnected and tested still did it.
So replaced the steering damper this cleaned it up for the first trip till a easy drive in the country where hitting 80 on the free way had to stop after the shakes.
have not removed proped again but looking into drivers side barings not sure dont see any abmornal movement

what do you all think you have all gone to the shraft for a reson dose this warrant

i'l take one but will not be ready for a few months put me as a maybe

[clubagreenie]

Are they standard length or suitable for +50mm?

[Krayzie Keegs]

Are they standard length or suitable for +50mm?
I dont want to run away with this thread but they are factory standard props I have the les richmond lift still running standard wheels tooonly done 4000k or so since fitted dont use it much but as it will now be my main work car need it fixed knowing its a costly fix $700 fot a prop or $350 for a wheel hub want to get the right one first time

[Fluids]

Heads up to anyone interested in getting a tom woods shaft, jeepkonnection (procomp) is about to get 15 of them from the states, $580 + postage. I already have mine ordered :)

Thanks Rocky88. I've had a sloppy DC join (with good uni's) for the last 30k ... so I ordered a TW shaft thru JK today. They now have 13 left. $580 + $24.50 postage.

I emailed Tom Wood for a quote ... $389US + $175US shipping + $5US packaging = $569US .... about $550AUD ... not worth the hassle & wait so I ordered locally.

I asked the guy at JK why the Jeep business does D2 front shafts ... they are personal friends of Tom Wood, and since they already use TW shafts for Jeeps, Tom was getting lots of enquiry & orders for D2 front shafts, so asked JK to carry them ... I told him I thought it was a little strange, going to a Jeep business for my D2 spares :p ...

.... waiting :)

[clubagreenie]

What's the opinion of using a spacer to extend the shaft that I've seen on the net?

[trevor]

In regards to TW DC front drive shafts I ordered one fromLucky8 for 388+120 postage from the US (about 500 AUD at the exchange rate when I bought it). So if anyone is bummed about missing out from jeep konnection there is still hope. Give Justin an email and he's more than helpful.

[DiscoCam]

TD5 auto with 190,000kms, stock suspension, little offroad, some heavy towing. Symptons were a chirping noise at neutral throttle which would disappear under load. Closest uni to the diff in the double carden was cactus with the caps just about off.

Removed shaft & took it to Hardy Spicer who replaced all uni's with greasable, centre bearing and balanced shaft for $340. Happy with the service & thought the price was reasonable.

[clubagreenie]

Also since most of us have lifted our cars, how much influence over wear does the lift and subsequent side shifting of the diff (when done without an adjustable panhard rod). You end up with, A/C dripping on it, angular changes from the lift plus a lateral influence from side shifting.

Adjustable rods seem to be immediate fittings for other makes but the last if any consideration for us?

[haydent]

Double Cardan startied clicking after backing off accelerator, checked it and its had it. Had to take it off and put diff lock on with spanner to complete a small trip. Will take some photos and post. And call around some drive line places to get rebuild cost to compare against doing it myself. (if its rebuild-able, maybe too damaged)

185k auto td5, no mods, but likely ac drain suspect.

Still to read through this thread though as well as this one: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/60501-d2-driveshaft-goes-bang.html

[mrapocalypse]

TD5 auto with 190,000kms, stock suspension, little offroad, some heavy towing. Symptons were a chirping noise at neutral throttle which would disappear under load. Closest uni to the diff in the double carden was cactus with the caps just about off.

Removed shaft & took it to Hardy Spicer who replaced all uni's with greasable, centre bearing and balanced shaft for $340. Happy with the service & thought the price was reasonable.

Hardy Spicer just did mine too for the same price. 3 Greasable unis and cardon centre bearing.

Very good service and good people to deal with.

Beats the $660 i paid to buy a new one due o centre bearing failure!

[haydent]

i rang up HS in sydney and there must have been some confusion as they said it would cost me what you guys said it cost you in total just for the parts...

anyway was in a local ultracheap and was suprised that the guy there knew what uj it took and had it in stock. ill definately be going back there, as i have enough trouble at supercheap just getting the blonde counter chick to ask someone else if x product is in store...

anyway being country and all i picked some Toyo K5-L4R up for $28 each.

then some circlip pliers from SC for $10

decided to have a crack at it tommorow atleast just replacing the two uni's in the cardan and possibly leaving the ball joint and other uni...

[haydent]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=47442&stc=1&d=1338471882http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=47443&stc=1&d=1338471906

[Wasa57]

Hi Haydent

Be sure to check the yolk holes and circlip grooves carefully. My shaft looked just like yours, I "repaired" it myself and had a near catastrophic failure shortly after, luckily at low speed, because a circlip had come adrift because of excessive wear to the yolk and circlip grooves.

[haydent]

thanks for the tip

[clubagreenie]

One of the causes of the squeek is the bearing cap may seize onto the cross and spin in the yolk and this will stretch and enlarge the hole. Was my issue and was requiring a new yolk (of course it was on the shaft side). This is what can help the circlip fall out.

[haydent]

great, thanks for the clarification

[haydent]

got mine all apart today except for the ball joint which ill need some help with.

b4 pulling it apart i checked all the caps by rotating the joint in all ways to check if any where ceased and turning within the yolk, they where all ok.

so with that and by visual inspection of the circlip grooves etc id say mine is ok for rebuild

heres a photo of the offending UJ

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=47483&stc=1&d=1338641794

[haydent]

Just got the centre bearing from Hardy Spicer in Newcastle at trade rate 54! Rather than 90 ... :) now just to get the old one out

[haydent]

mechanic wanted 5$ to take the ball bearing out so i gave him $18.

jst finished putting it back together.

didnt have a vice but did have a large g clamp which fitted the hole pefectly which worked well as did tapping them with a hammer to get it started.

just have to watch out with clamp as it has swivel head, if it seems hard or jammed, turn it around as the bearing cap is likely going in off alignment and thus jamming.

couple of times i didnt have the uj lined up with the caps correctly when squeezing together and knocked a pin over on the way into the cap. luckily could tap the uj with a hammer to reverse it back out.

so watch out for that, as there's a bit at the start when both ends of the uj cant be in a cap at the same time so i would slide it to the end/side i was pressing in and each bit i went in i would stop and then slide the uj from one side to the other between the two caps and check it was lined up and i hadnt knocked a pin over.

[haydent]

also just remembered that i was able to press/tap the caps in at the end with the clips in place ready to click into their grooves when in far enough.

also a couple of times the caps went in too far and made the joint too stiff, so i would check the clips wth my pliers to see whihc side was the loosest then carefully tap the center of the uj towards that one to take pressure off the jammed side.

[RoverNova]

Big thanks the the bulk load of info on this Thread :BigThumb:.

A small vibration on acceleration developed into a bad clicking noise on deceleration i ripped the shaft out and some numb nut installed only one new uni @ transfer end and the ball joint is flopping around like its fitted to a shirt sleeve :wallbash:.

I have ordered complete set of uni's and a ball joint using part numbers from this thread ill see what arrives tomorrow. Also the nuts have been rounded so ill take a trip to the bolt shop tomorrow also :wallbash:.

Cheers
Rhys

[landyprincess]

Hi All,
hope you are all well...

...mine has had the dreaded crickets for the last week (only intermittent) and from my read through this excellent post, my gut tells me its the same prob so want to nip this in the butt.

Is there someone who could recommend a business in the South Eastern (outer) Subs of Melbourne that is able to recondition my original one? Not sure if its the front or rear yet.

Also, any comments on those who have had them reconditioned ....how much did it cost? We can take it out and put it back in ...so just after someone who can do the reconditioning bit. Other priorities so I don't have the time for us doing it all at the moment.

Appreciate the help,

Thanks
Lp

[zedcars]

Interesting read guys.

I see about one failure a week, even had it on my own D2 after a long run across the northern tier from Denver in the US to Canada. All mostly motorway work at 80 mph, loaded with wife 'n kids 'n kid crap

Now all the D2's running "up n over" here are V8's, and the reflected heat of the cats in the Y pipe are the culprit.
Remember the internal cat temp is somewhere near 500 dgf so reflected heat is going to be at least 400 dgf onto the prop.

That will cook the grease for sure and in almost every case its the forward U/J on the double joint which partially seizes and cracks the cup.
Greasable joints help, stay away from stuff made in China, and I overhaul my prop every three years or 60K miles sending it off to a specialist where it gets balance checked following joint change.

For sure you don't want detachment, it makes a right mess of the transmission and floor.--Can in fact ruin your day!
Dennis
zedcars

[Haddles]

Stock 2000 auto v8, 142,000km. Had been a country car and had towed horse floats in its previous life. Minimal off road.
Got MR automotive at Redcliffe to fix it. They did a couple of other things but probably came in under $300 for greasable unis.
Started as a mild vibration under acceleration. I stopped driving it for a month until I could get it looked at. On the way to the mechanics (highway trip) it started getting worse and was making banging noises under acceleration.
I had no idea what the problem was until they diagnosed it otherwise I would probably have pulled the shaft out and locked the transfer case before driving it.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Mornin Lp:D

any Hardie Spicer business should be able to do it properly.
There were some $$$ mentioned back a few pages??

and if The Loved One is crawling under there--
get him to eyeball the rear rubber donut where the shaft goes into the REAR diff.
;)