Full Brake line kit for a SWB SIII

[TeZZaP]

Does anybody now if there are companies over here that offer this kind of kit;

BRAKE LINE KIT SERIES III 88" | Brake Parts for Land Rover & Range Rover (http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/5422.cfm)

Tar

Terry

[Phoenix]

I didn't think that the solid lines were normally that flexible?

Which reminds me, I will need to get teh tools to redo my ambulance's lines!

[TeZZaP]

I didn't think that the solid lines were normally that flexible?

Which reminds me, I will need to get teh tools to redo my ambulance's lines!

Hmm, I assumed you just purchased them rolled up but pre-cut to the correct length, then unrolled and bent them to fit... but then you know what they say about assuming things!

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Steel "bundy" tube comes in straight lengths which are then cut, fittings threaded on and the ends flared. Bundy tubing is resistant to bending and the purists will bend them with a bending tool.

There is also annealed copper tubing which comes coiled and which is frequently used for brake lines. The problem with the copper is that, being soft is less resistant to the frequent pressure cycles involved in braking and is far more likely to rupture with fatigue than the plated steel bundy tubing. If copper was best for automotive brake lines, then it would be used as OEM by car manufacturers.

Most brake service centres will make replacement brake pipes to suit your application using new bundy tube and fittings. You only need to take the original into the place and they'll make them up.

The problem is the 80" which has a larger diameter tube and fittings, which are harder to get.

Diana

[Phoenix]

The problem with my ambulance is that large sections have rusted away. Tube, bending tool, flaring tool and threaded pieces is what I need then ;)

(Brakes and engine are the first thing to be attended to after chassis rust and clutch)

[TeZZaP]

snip... The problem is the 80" which has a larger diameter tube and fittings, which are harder to get.
Diana

Hmm, I wonder if this is my next brake problem; as some of you may have noticed from a previous thread, I have recently upgraded my original 10" system to be 11", and much fun was had getting the correct backing plates, wheel cylinders, drums and shoes! I am also nearly ready to pop the rear axle back on the vehicle and was starting to think ahead to the break lines... I was hoping that basically I now have a complete 'standard' 11" 80" system... but maybe the word 'standard' is a bit off!

[Slunnie]

The steel brake line also comes in the roll. You can just buy it by the metre, its not expensive.

I rebraked my 109 and it really isnt a difficult job, but you need to get used to doing good double flares on the ends. For larger radius bends I just did it by hand, though most of them I did as sharper bends using a mandrel bender for brake line.

All of the fittings and lines I bought from BrakePro, and they were excellent to deal with. The bender and double flare tool I bought from Blackwoods.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Hmm, I wonder if this is my next brake problem; as some of you may have noticed from a previous thread, I have recently upgraded my original 10" system to be 11", and much fun was had getting the correct backing plates, wheel cylinders, drums and shoes! I am also nearly ready to pop the rear axle back on the vehicle and was starting to think ahead to the break lines... I was hoping that basically I now have a complete 'standard' 11" 80" system... but maybe the word 'standard' is a bit off!
I would be changing the whole set of lines to the later 3/16" pipe and fittings to suit the 11" fronts.

You may find that the 11" rears lock up too quickly on your 80" so you may need a brake proportioning valve. You could consider having 11" fronts and 10" rears.

What master cylinder are you going to use? With the original master cylinder you may run out of pedal before the the brakes are fully applied. It will mean that you have to regularly adjust the shoes, more than you would on the 10" brakes. Otherwise you will have to adapt a long wheelbase master cylinder.

Diana

[gromit]

Diana,

'copper' brake tubing is used in the UK because of corrosion problems due to the rock salt used on the roads during the winter (for de-icing). It is actually a copper nickel alloy (Kunifer is one trade name from memory) and there are no problems using it for brake lines.
I'm not aware of any manufacturers using it as standard but why would they ? It would add extra cost.

In the UK you can buy complete sets of 'copper' brake lines for most classic cars, they usually have brass tube nuts and flare nuts. Unfortunately they are not 'legal' here and will fail a roadworthy I'm led to believe (although I found a 'copper' line on my Series II).
A company called Namrick can supply the tubing, nuts and also complete kits.
NAMRICK : BRAKING SYSTEM (http://www.namrick.co.uk/browse.asp?PCID=18)


I remember an interesting solution by SAAB where on the old 99's they ran the steel brake lines inside the car (under the carpet). It meant that there had to be connections through the bulkhead but all the brake lines were kept in the dry.....


Colin

[Aaron IIA]

I have just rebuilt the brake lines on my 80". I did it all original, and had no problems getting 1/4 pipe and fittings. The straight bundy being referred to has a green coating to prevent rust. It is hard to form bends. The coiled bundy looks like copper, but is steel. It must have some other coating. It is easy to form bends. This is what I used. I bought a six metre coil for $20.

Aaron.

[gromit]

Aaron,

When I did the brakes on my 86" the 1/4" tube had the green finish but was coiled, so it would seem that you can buy it in both straight lengths or coiled. PITA if you want the straight stuff freighted though.

I found this from PBR
http://www.pbr.com.au/products/heavy/documents/PBRBundyTubing.pdf
It may be old because it lists copper/nickel tubing. Also when I drove past the PBR factory (whats left of it) a few weeks ago it had a Bosch sign on the outside!

Colin

[chazza]

Steel "bundy" tube comes in straight lengths which are then cut, fittings threaded on and the ends flared. Bundy tubing is resistant to bending and the purists will bend them with a bending tool.

There is also annealed copper tubing which comes coiled and which is frequently used for brake lines. The problem with the copper is that, being soft is less resistant to the frequent pressure cycles involved in braking and is far more likely to rupture with fatigue than the plated steel bundy tubing. If copper was best for automotive brake lines, then it would be used as OEM by car manufacturers.

Diana

I have bought bundy tubing in coils; it is copper plated for some corrosion protection, but I painted it as well.

I disagree with the annealed-copper, work-hardening furphy. Steel tube is also subjected to the same forces and also work-hardens. Copper brake pipes are legal in WA and as someone else stated, are legal in Europe.

Don't forget that the early Series 1's apparently had copper brake pipes. Nowadays cars are built to a price rather than a standard - copper costs more, that is why they don't use it; for the same reason they don't supply stainless steel wheel cylinders on new cars.

I have used copper brake pipes on my cars for years and never had a problem with them,

Cheers Charlie

[Olive Drab]

Have just recently completed full brake system overhaul on my 109". Bought all the lines pre-flared etc. from a rover parts supplier (not sure if i should mention who) all of the longer lines came coiled in the postbag, resulting in my having to straighten them then re-bend them to fit. The backing plate bridge line that joins the top and bottom wheel cylinder on the front were delivered straight. To get the tight radius bend required at the wheel cylinders I got a peice of 1.5" x 1/2" flat bar, drilled and tapped 3/8 unf holes 3/16" apart filled the tubes with fine sand (wife doesnt know the tea strainer is still in the shed) and bent the backing plate tubes by hand. This worked really well and was easy to do. Just pack the sand tight and bend slowly. I used 2' long bolts so I could bend against the shoulder on the bolt to avoid getting thread marks in the tube. Hope this is useful to someone .....

[Dinty]

G'day All, Treat yourself to a 'Rigid' double flaring tool and a cheap tubing bender brake/clutch pipes are the easiest jobs you will ever do on a Land Rover cheers Dennis:wasntme:
PS Rigid spares can be purchased at any 'Eagles' plumbing supplies;)

[TeZZaP]

I would be changing the whole set of lines to the later 3/16" pipe and fittings to suit the 11" fronts.

You may find that the 11" rears lock up too quickly on your 80" so you may need a brake proportioning valve. You could consider having 11" fronts and 10" rears.

What master cylinder are you going to use? With the original master cylinder you may run out of pedal before the the brakes are fully applied. It will mean that you have to regularly adjust the shoes, more than you would on the 10" brakes. Otherwise you will have to adapt a long wheelbase master cylinder.

Diana

I'm basically installing a duel system, and have a duel master cylinder/servo/pedal box. I don't have many serviceable parts for the 10" system, so would rather stick with the 11" at the back, but if they are going to lock up too easily maybe I'l have to consider changing them - I thought that when they up-rated the early 88's from 10" to be 11" that they had up'ed both fronts and backs; am I right in thinking that they only changed the fronts to be 11" and left the backs as 10" then?

EDIT: I noticed on my earlier post that I said 80"... sorry, typo! It should have read 88" - its a SWB Series III

[TeZZaP]

The steel brake line also comes in the roll. You can just buy it by the metre, its not expensive.

I rebraked my 109 and it really isnt a difficult job, but you need to get used to doing good double flares on the ends. For larger radius bends I just did it by hand, though most of them I did as sharper bends using a mandrel bender for brake line.

All of the fittings and lines I bought from BrakePro, and they were excellent to deal with. The bender and double flare tool I bought from Blackwoods.

Hi Slunnie, mind if I ask exactly what bender and flare tool you got from Blackwoods, only they seem to have quite a range!

[Aaron IIA]

I'm basically installing a duel system, and have a duel master cylinder/servo/pedal box.

I hope you mean "dual" and not "duel". We don't want and fatalities.

Aaron.

[TeZZaP]

I hope you mean "dual" and not "duel". We don't want and fatalities.

Aaron.

I used to be dyslexic, but I'm KO now... :D