Next issue...Auto g'box

[goldey]

Hello all,

It is time to address the next issue with my 98 300tdi auto disco. Although the auto seems to be working fine at the moment, the following list of jobs needs to be addressed.

One of the auto cooler lines is leaking at one of the fixed to flexible joints. Enough of a leak to cause a 50 cent stain on the garage floor overnight :(.

The other issue is the auto gearbox dipstick / filler tube has snapped where it is attached to the firewall :mad:.

Now both of these issues could be addressed when I service the auto (ie drop the pan, new fluid and replace the strainer), which I'm planning on doing soonish.

My questions are:


What have people done in relation to leaking auto cooler pipes before? Is it better to just replace with new or am I better talking to Mr Pirtek or equivalent? I have heard that this is apparently a recurring issue.

The dipstick tube, I imagine could be welded or silver soldered back together when replacing the auto screen filter and renewing fluid (making sure that the overall length of the tube doesn't change of course). But, should it be remounted to the firewall or somewhere on the bellhousing or engine? Has anybody else had this issue with the dipstick filler tube?

Last question. Is replacing the fluid with a fully synthetic fluid worthwhile, and which fluid is recommended? I'm not sure what type the existing fluid is as we've only had the disco for about 9 mths. I suspect that draining all of the available fluid from the TC is important if I'm going from mineral to synthetic as well.


Your response would be hugely appreciated.

Cheers

Goldey

[Blknight.aus]

Id mount the filler to the engine that way it moves and shakes with the engine rather than failing to do so when its mounted to the firewall...

Running the synthetics occasionally causes problems when the better luricity of it causes nearly worn clutch packs/bands to slip.

[goldey]

Thanks Dave

My thoughts concerning the connection to the engine is the same, will hopefully prevent the tube from splitting again by staying with the whole transmission / engine vibration.

So, your recommendation is to stay with a good mineral based transmission oil? Apparently my gearbox had an overhaul 12 mths prior to us buying it. So I'm hoping that any worn clutch packs or bands were replaced then?????

Cheers

Goldey

[Blknight.aus]

assuming your not getting told furphies thats what ID think... synthetic shouldnt cause a problem...

and Id get pirtek to do the hoses and specify that they will be exposed to heat soak vibrations but not massive pressures when they set the hoses up.

[DiscoDan]

If you are going to tow or run in the bush in summer in low range, PUT an oil cooler on it, that may also fix the leak.

I have just run the standard oil in my box for the last 220k and not had problems. Just get it serviced every 40k and it should give a long hassle free life.

Oh mine tends to throw out the dip stick, just push it in. I tried to use wire to hold it in however told not to waste my time.

[goldey]

Thks DiscoDan

Mine has a 4 row cooler for the auto already in front of the radiator. Are you talking about an additional cooler or a bigger one? As I recall reading on this forum that a P38 oil cooler is the ducks nuts for fitting to the Disco that does any heavy towing or lots of sand work.

Cheers
Goldey

[loanrangie]

Your dipstick/oil filler shouldnt be fixed to the firewall, mine isnt and i have the same car ? maybe it is loose at the oilpan and needs to be tightened ?

[ianyates]

Is replacing the fluid with a fully synthetic fluid worthwhile, and which fluid is recommended? I'm not sure what type the existing fluid is as we've only had the disco for about 9 mths. I suspect that draining all of the available fluid from the TC is important if I'm going from mineral to synthetic as well.
Goldey

I've read some shocking stories from people who played switcheroo with auto trans oils. This is one bit of the car where I stick to what it says in the book. And you won't be able to replace all the oil unless you run the box with a pipe off and that's risky if you get it wrong and fill it with air... The factory recommended method is to change what's in the pan, then after a few thousand more kms do it again and you've changed maybe 80% of the stuff. In my experience just changing half of it makes a big difference if it hasn't been done for some time.

[mcrover]

- Dip stick/ filler bolted to the engine not the body

- Enzed is cheaper than pirtek and the same quality

- I wouldnt bother with synthetic as it is a major PITA to get all the 11ltrs of ATF out of the trans as dropping it only drops 4.5ltrs.

You have to drain the torque converter, drop the valve body and flush the clutch packs so you will end up using a minimum of about 16ltrs of fluid before you would be at 95% synth.

The only major advantage to going synthetic is longevity but if you change your filter and the 4.5ltrs of Dex 3 ATF once a year which only costs about $60 your trans will last indeffinatly if it was built properly.

:D