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olmate
8th August 2008, 05:37 PM
Now that Ol Ute has been sold, I thought I would start a thread on the next project - my 1952 80" Series 1 (Shorty) :D:D:D

Shorty was found in a paddock with 2 other Series 1's (86's) not long after I bought and wrecked a 1957 109". I asure you - this 109" was beyond help...:( Having wanted a 80" for a long time, I didn't waste this opportunity to grab it as mine and start planning on getting her home and getting stuck into some hard work.

I am yet to bring her home however, that will be fixed in a couple of weeks ;). Once I have the room to get her undercover and start pulling bits off. It is time tho to post some photos of the thing as she is now (sitting beside a shed with fencing tied to her to stop the horses from getting a free feed :mad:).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/987.jpg

A bit of work shall be needed to repair some damage but she is in pretty good knick for her age (and she still gets used about the property ... when she aint tied to the fence)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/988.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/989.jpg

And there is "that Map" - what can I say :o

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/990.jpg

The motor seems most - part complete but will need a water pump repair / replacement.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/991.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/992.jpg

Se will be a lot of work but I am really looking forward to it. I have a need for a few panel beating and spray painting lessons and from what I have seen so far; the rest will take time with some mechanical work and a general tidy up as per the last vehicle. :D

procrastination inc
8th August 2008, 05:49 PM
niiice :D

these old landys are starting to give me funny flutters

Rangier Rover
8th August 2008, 05:56 PM
You are very fortunate to find one that straight and original. If my 49 or 51 were that tidy I'd be a very happy Man:D. Will be watching with interest. Tony

Shonky
8th August 2008, 07:06 PM
Very nice Troy!

She looks like a great project - I will be watching!

Sleepy
8th August 2008, 07:39 PM
I'll be watching with interest - Looks like a good'n.

vin16660088
10th August 2008, 05:19 AM
I like the cup holder next to the instrument panel, what didnt they think of...

olmate
10th August 2008, 12:26 PM
I like the cup holder next to the instrument panel, what didnt they think of...

And people think that you had to wait until the '90's for that as an option.... :)

olmate
24th August 2008, 03:23 PM
Well she is home :) .... I am very tired :o but the shed is closed and I am into the home brew ;)

Sorry about the poor photos but the better ones will come as enough is enough for the day :D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/358.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/359.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/153.jpg

d@rk51d3
24th August 2008, 03:42 PM
Looks good to me.

Finding the time (and good weather......and the money)........ that's the killer.

olmate
24th August 2008, 05:23 PM
And a couple more..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/351.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/352.jpg

Sleepy
24th August 2008, 05:48 PM
Looks like you've got some competition for the drivers seat Troy:cool:

easo
24th August 2008, 06:11 PM
I'll miss seeing the updates for the olute thread, but Sleepy will have it sorted. However I will look forward to the ol-shorty thread, comming to a fourm near us soon, I hope. Can't wait to see the ol-beasty when I head down there to get my 'old girl' off Dad soon.

Easo

olmate
25th August 2008, 04:45 PM
Well the first inspection at home has shown a good chassis and bulk head (you beauty :D:D:D ). But I will be needing some parts, mainly both front guards. They have been split vertically at the arches and have seen other repairs to them both over the years :(.

The drivers side door top will need replacing too (big hole in the frame)....

I will need to replace the tailgate, as you could imagine it has been knocked about over the years and is beyond repair (splits and dodgy welding):o

The front bumper will look good again once I re-shape it with the press on my bench and everything else (at this stage) appears to be good enough to work on ;)

The wiring is all there. Only problem - its all blue.... :o but she'll be right; I shall make sure (what it has) is all working and then cover it over with insulating tubing as per ol ute. ;)

So if there are any of you blokes out there with bits and pieces for 80" Landy's that you would love to part with give me a buzz :) - front guards, door tops and tail gate being the biggy's at the moment.

Jobs on !! - spiders sprayed tonite and I may get the gurnie into her tomorrow :)

olmate
27th August 2008, 05:15 PM
Spent this evening checking out the bulk head further. Pushing gently and hoping that the hand wont got thru it. All seems well and best part of a can of CRC has been spent on everything in anticipation of the weekend when I plan to start pulling bits off it ;)

Spiders - have never seen so many in one spot :o - Just cant wait to get into it.

easo
27th August 2008, 08:16 PM
Watching closley.:eek:

olmate
28th August 2008, 05:45 PM
I can say that the motor turns over :D Haven't started her yet as the key won't turn to where it should (shall get some CRC / TLC into it and see how I go later). Doors off, tailgate off and emptied the 'dogs water' into it, with a bit of a brush. Lots of crap coming out and a bit os a mess to clean up in the driveway (so the wife reckons :o).

Shall be getting ready for a good going over with the karcher on Saturday with a bit of a degrease for the ol girl ;). Bumper will come off and I shall start straightening it on the bench between sussing out the chassis seriously and making a plan of attack for the jobs ahead.

And spiders - they are still coming out of it :D Photos will come too - bit dark now....

AJSLRD
28th August 2008, 08:51 PM
Troy

Sounds like you maybe a little scared of spiders? Just drown the little beggers that's what the spray is for.:twisted::wasntme:

Allen

olmate
29th August 2008, 05:31 PM
Troy

Sounds like you maybe a little scared of spiders?
Allen

No mate - just scared of the wife when she catches me with the little fella in the car with the spiders :eek:

ellard
29th August 2008, 07:01 PM
Hi there Troy

Just sent you a PM - top effort for getting the kids involved.

I had the 54 SWB out this arvo, with the kids driving - put it in low range first gear, manual throttle slightly open and they drive it around the paddock all arvo................

Been watching your thread for a while now with the 80 rebuild (with the upside down map of Australiaon the door) - top effort and who knows when we can have a drink again when we passing through...........

Wayne

PS good night for indoors - big wind and rains forcasted tonight.

olmate
30th August 2008, 09:11 AM
Stopping for a brew now - I thought I would get some photos up early to show you all what I have to work with. Shorty does need some panels etc but, as I am finding, some rust repairs will be required to the front of the chassis and bulkhead (on the passenger side) so far. Of course this is expected and shall give me something to do.

The seat box, flooring and general bulkhead condition has proven to be good for a start point and after a quick rinse with water it looks promising; although the photo doesn't show the rust hole. Shall get one up once I cut into it a bit.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/104.jpg
The tray is fine (although it does have a bit cut out of one side) but she isn't as twisted as I would have expected.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/105.jpg
Doug told me that he used it for carting sand around the property (hence the rear springs that have been fitted). I reckon that she has spent more than her fair share of time with wet sand sitting in the back and old stuff caked all thru the underside at times.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/106.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/107.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/108.jpg

The rust in the front of the chassis:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/109.jpg

The mess under the bonnet:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/110.jpg

And on a good note, there is not as much oil and crud built up under things (or is that just because there is no oil in her).....
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/111.jpg

I shall give her a wash over today and post some more photos if it is worth it. ;)

olmate
30th August 2008, 12:16 PM
There'll be no washing Shorty today (might get done tomorrow tho). I reckon that I have done enough for the day.:)

This is the photo of the rust I have to deal with in the bulkhead:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/91.jpg

Looks worse in the photo than it is and I reckon that I shall be able to fix it pretty well. Have taken the guards off as I will be looking for replacements :o - came off very easily and now I shall be able to get into Shorty for a real good tub under the bonnet..
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/101.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/102.jpg

The rusting under the bonnet is no trouble as it seems like it will tidy up well with a brush and the right treatment :D - I am a lot happier now ;)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/103.jpg

chazza
30th August 2008, 06:27 PM
Good luck with the bulkhead repairs Troy; yours looks quite good compared to mine.

I have just come in from the shed doing exactly the same job and replacing the top box section. The rust in the pillars is caused by a double skin trapping moisture; it is not the most enjoyable of repairs and probably one of the hardest Land Rover bulkheads to fix, because of the curved pressings, but I should get it finished tomorrow, thank goodness :)

Cheers Charlie

olmate
30th August 2008, 09:04 PM
Thanks Charlie - any tips mate would be well received. :)

easo
30th August 2008, 09:23 PM
Looking forward to seeing this beasty, hopfuly soon. After the baby who is over due now.

Oh well, Easo

ellard
31st August 2008, 07:41 AM
Hi there Troy

You have found a good starting vehicle - is complete and in reasonable condition for being found in a paddock.

All the best

PS the bulk head repairs are realitively easy if your handy with a mig welder........

Wayne

olmate
31st August 2008, 08:16 AM
Thanks Easo and Wayne.

And all the best with the Bub for you and the wife mate :D:D:D

chazza
31st August 2008, 08:56 AM
As Wayne says Troy, a MIG is handy :D

I cut the rusty bit out with an angle grinder and a thin cutting disc, but you have to be very careful of kickback of course. I took my bulkhead off and set it up on a nice high table to do the welding.

I make up the repair patch in cardboard first and when I am happy with the shape I trace around it on to 1mm cold rolled steel, which is very easy to shape. On the pillars I made the patch go to the edge where the hinges are so that the weld can be where the original one was. Be aware that the shut face side of the pillar is narrower than the wheel arch side (tapered) so the repair patch needs an angle greater than 90 degrees on it.

I make sure that the patch is a bit smaller than the hole so that the weld can penetrate to the back. I take a lot of care while tacking, to make sure that the face of the patch and the base metal is perfectly aligned, otherwise filler will be required in greater amounts than desirable.

I also got the sandblasting man to blast inside the pillars before I repaired them.

I made new captive nuts and cages and welded them in place before putting the patch in; and this time I used a 60 grit flap-disc to sand the welds down, which does a much nicer job than a grinding disc and a quicker job than the polisher/sander.

Apologies if you knew this already, but it might be useful to someone,

Cheers Charlie

P.S. I have/will post pics on the Trans Tasman site.

olmate
31st August 2008, 10:00 AM
Thanks mate, its all new to me and I am more than happy to get advise :D

olmate
1st September 2008, 05:20 PM
I pick up some new springs for the front of Shorty tomorrow (well... new=from another Landy). These shall let her sit up where she belongs and get the front axle off the bump stops ;).

Plans this week are to treat the chassis and paint it on the weekend, with the bulk head to follow. I am hanging out to get hold of better front guards and then really get into the work. Sorting out the motor before the guards go on and painting happens.

olmate
5th September 2008, 05:03 PM
After tidying up the front section of the chassis and treating it for rust etc during the week, I thought that I would give it a coat of green paint. She does look good but my progress has been halted for the night by the wife as we are 'going out for dinner' :( . No its alright it will give things time to dry anyway and I want a decent steak :D.

I have made a more thorough list of things that I will be needing for Shorty:

Front Guards: Both my left and right front guards are cracked and worse for wear. They have seen a few attempts over the years to be repaired but are well and truly past it now.

Bumper: I am trying very hard to straighten the one that I have, but not doing too well. It has also been welded on one end after being broken at one stage.

Tailgate: What can I say…. She is bent and has the chain hooks ripped clean out of her. I will probably try to repair this with a complete new section of alloy should I not be able to get a replacement.

D Lamps: Yeah - I know, get in line mate.

Rim: I am down one rim. This shouldn’t be too hard to find though.

Seats: I have one (that’s if you can call it a seat). The previous owner had replaced what was missing with what he called a seat.

Speedo: Mine is beyond repair as the detail on the gauge is gone completely.

Door Tops: These will be down the track a bit but I shall be looking for some in good / repairable knick.

Anyway - things are to be taken slow and steady and I want to get the front springs under it and motor running first. I have a mate coming to help me fix up the couple of rusty bits in two weeks :) that will be great :D:D:D

Once I have found some good front guards and a tailgate I will get into the painting proper (although I am now tempted to give the door bottoms and bonnet a go ;))

Once the paint dries on the front part of the chassis I shall put up a photo or two. In the meantime - I continue to watch ebay..

Sleepy
5th September 2008, 05:14 PM
Moving on nicely Troy - enjoy your steak.

Did you see this?
LAND ROVER SERIES ONE TAIL GATE AND REAR TUB 80 INCH - eBay, Other Car Parts, Accessories, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 07-Sep-08 22:04:37 AEST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/LAND-ROVER-SERIES-ONE-TAIL-GATE-AND-REAR-TUB-80-INCH_W0QQitemZ320293385953QQihZ011QQcategoryZ6763Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

olmate
6th September 2008, 09:17 AM
Paint dried now but I need some advice on the colouring. I bought Deep Brunswick Green to start with (reason being it was kill rust and went over all the prep work I did on the chassis after the 'real' rust prevention). Now that it is dry - it is way off the mark as I was wanting to get as close to Bronze Green as I could (see the rim colours).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/917.jpg
Is there anywhere / or any brand of paint that sells Bronze Green off the shelf; or do I have to have it mixed? Maybe the whole thing becomes Deep Brunswick Green :)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/918.jpg
Might try to get a better photo for you lot to look at when the sun 'does' get up. This is just me checking things out at the moment and finding the colour that I want... motor needs to be done first of course.

easo
6th September 2008, 01:01 PM
Rim: I am down one rim. This shouldn’t be too hard to find though..

Got one, PM sent.

Nice progress mate.

series1buff
6th September 2008, 01:58 PM
Go to any Wattyl retail outlet and ask for the BSC ( British Standard Colour ) #24 Deep Bronze Green. The BSC code system has been around since the early 1930's . Wattyl can supply it in many forms e.g., industrial enamel or even expensive marine grade paint . Paint is overpriced generally, and if you know a friendly Panel beater business.. you may get it for trade price.

http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/bsc1931wm_1.htm

BTW that Kill rust stuff : It Isn't compatible with other industrial enamels that use GP thinners or enamel thinners .. if you try to spray over it with auto enamel, you'll get blistering . Kill Rust uses turps from memory .

Mike

olmate
6th September 2008, 06:33 PM
Thanks Mike; very much appreciated. Looks like I have to do some homework before I get carried away with the painting bit :)


Replacement front springs are on and she is sitting up level with the back now :D... 'very' high indeed ... high enough for the front prop shaft to hit the cross member :o - I had to take it off to tighten everthing up and I shall have to either fit wedges to the front end or go to something lower ;) It does look good tho :D:D:D Photos to follow.

olmate
8th September 2008, 04:50 PM
Well Mike - I did what you had advised me to do and (you guessed it) I have the right paint colour and am very happy now :D thanks mate ;)

series1buff
8th September 2008, 06:45 PM
Troy,

I've seen that problem before : the front prop shaft hitting the crossmember when new front springs are fitted . A local here owns a 86" .. it's a kinda hot rod with a 2.5 litre motor and range rover transmission and later axles. To make the prop shaft clear the crossmember , he just cut a small piece of the crossmember out and welded in a U or V shaped section . So the crossmember now has a small 'U' indent to clear the prop shaft .

Other than doing that .. you can use the original springs ! If they are not badly corroded , you can reset them by Hammering them.. Each spring is disassembled . Then leaf by leaf , you use a Anvil and a heavy hammer to hammer them, using the HORN of the anvil . Don't do it on a cold day as the spring metal may fracture .. its best done on a warm sunny day . Years ago, this was a common job on cars.

Good news on the paint .
Mike

olmate
9th September 2008, 04:51 PM
Well here is the photo I should of had up yesterday. Not the best but you can see she is level now and starting to look tidy. I have brushed on some paint in front of the rear wheel etc and it is looking the goods. Paint will come later but I shall get some into the shed this week :D
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/814.jpg
And I shall be doing as Mick has suggested with the front cross member and cutting a section out of it; replacing it with a 'U' shape part. :)

Sleepy
9th September 2008, 05:20 PM
You are a machine Troy! Nice work.

Planning your next vehicle yet?:D:D

101RRS
9th September 2008, 07:08 PM
Replacement front springs are on and she is sitting up level with the back now :D... 'very' high indeed ... high enough for the front prop shaft to hit the cross member :o - I had to take it off to tighten everthing up and I shall have to either fit wedges to the front end or go to something lower ;) It does look good tho :D:D:D

I have to put new springs in my "Baby" - series 1 88.

I am interested to know what you did with the springs to cause the problem - I do know that if you put in new springs when everything is off the ground and everything is tightened up then the front does ride too high and causes the problem with the driveshaft.

So is this the issue or did you get heavier or "high lift" springs?

Thanks

Garry

olmate
9th September 2008, 07:54 PM
Garry, these springs were of my 2a 88" and not the right height for the 80"; the length (end to end) was fine tho. The Prop shaft knocks the cross member as the vehicle now rides well above std height.

Previously when I have replaced springs I have done it with the vehicle off the ground, firming them up and then tightening them well and truely with the vehicle back on the ground and weight on the springs. Then after a few days and some knocking around, I re-tighten them. Haven't had any trouble yet. Things settle down after a week or two.

101RRS
9th September 2008, 08:18 PM
Thanks Troy - that explains it :D

Shame you have to modify the cross member though.

Garry

series1buff
10th September 2008, 12:09 PM
Troy

Just be carefull with the uni joints . As the prop shaft will be at a steeper angle, the uni joints may not have enough room to turn freely .

My 80" has got high rear springs .. previuosly somebody had them reset .. not me .. Anyway.. the prop shaft just fits .. the angle is steep and the uni joints just make it around without fouling .
Mike

olmate
10th September 2008, 07:22 PM
Mike, I shall be measuring the crossmember up on the weekend and shall ensure that I look at the prop shaft before I cut anything. Thanks again.
One uni-joint is already clagged and I will be replacing that but I shall be sure to have a good look at the whole thing ;)

Lotz-A-Landies
10th September 2008, 08:13 PM
I have to put new springs in my "Baby" - series 1 88.

I am interested to know what you did with the springs to cause the problem - ...

...Thanks
Garry
Garry

There are a number of issues that can cause the ride height to be too high: Firstly, with new springs made in Australia the thickness of the leaves is greater than it was in the series 1 days because of the steel stock sizes that are available. The original springs were both thinner and contained less leaves in S1 days, mainly because the weight of the IOE engine.
2 Litre diesels and vehicles with capstan winches had an extra leaf added, bringing it up the the same count as the SIIa springs.
When replacing springs, make sure you put an anti sieze compound or grease the shackle pins and leave them loose until the vehicle is on the ground and bearing it's own weight. Then tighten up the pins and locknuts.
If the springs are still too tall to allow the prop-shaft to fit, take a leaf or 2 out of the spring pack.
There is a LR Parts supplier in Melbourne who supplied me some springs to use on my 1951, (front springs to fit 1951 through series 3 they said) when fitted up with the engine installed and the capstan on the front, and elephant sized me jumping up and down on the front they still wouldn't move. They were removed and some good 2nd hand ones refurbed and fitted up with excellent results.

series1buff
11th September 2008, 11:56 AM
Hello

Just commenting on Diana's comments. I agree with everything but: the grease on the shackle pins , I read somewhere it's not a good idea . In order to function as designed ,the rubber spring bushes and pins/shackles need to be locked together as one unit . I'm wondering if grease in there would make things a tad slippery .

The give in those rubber bushes are the secret to Land Rovers 'walking abilty' across undulating terrain. WW2 Jeeps have a higher amount of 'chassis twist' compared to a Land Rover , which has a much more rigid chassis. WW2 Jeeps have screw in type , all metal spring bushes which have little 'give' in them , hence the chassis twist for 'walking' ability .

Thats my theory anyway .. Make sense or not ? Mike

101RRS
11th September 2008, 12:32 PM
Garry

There are a number of issues that can cause the ride height to be too high:
Firstly, with new springs made in Australia the thickness of the leaves is greater than it was in the series 1 days because of the steel stock sizes that are available. The original springs were both thinner and contained less leaves in S1 days, mainly because the weight of the IOE engine.

You are right there - in the late 70s my then series 1 had sagged springs so I took the handbook into the spring man and asked him to make me a set - which he did and on pick up he said - "oh by the way I didn't have the old imperial sized steel so I made it in metric thickness metal - so what I responded - he said that to be on the safe side he went to the slightly larger thickness - needless to say it was a harsh ride bit still better than the original sagged springs. I just accepted it as being 'normal'.

It wasn't until I bought a series 3 a few years later that I realised how well a leaf spring landie could ride - silly statement I know but compared to my old series 1 the series 3 rode on a cushion of air.

Yep - been there - done that.

Garry

gromit
11th September 2008, 02:53 PM
Hello

Just commenting on Diana's comments. I agree with everything but: the grease on the shackle pins , I read somewhere it's not a good idea . In order to function as designed ,the rubber spring bushes and pins/shackles need to be locked together as one unit . I'm wondering if grease in there would make things a tad slippery .

The give in those rubber bushes are the secret to Land Rovers 'walking abilty' across undulating terrain. WW2 Jeeps have a higher amount of 'chassis twist' compared to a Land Rover , which has a much more rigid chassis. WW2 Jeeps have screw in type , all metal spring bushes which have little 'give' in them , hence the chassis twist for 'walking' ability .

Thats my theory anyway .. Make sense or not ? Mike


Mike,

I think the shackle bolt will always turn inside the bush when new, it's only friction between the steel sleeve in the bush and the shackles that puts the rubber into torsion. Diana's comment regarding greasing is maybe to ensure the bolt doesn't rust in the bush so that it can be removed in the future without the use of a hacksaw or gas axe. If the shackle bolts are done up tight enough once the springs are bearing the weight of the car it shouldn't be an issue.

Regarding the spring steel availability...... a colleague who restores Morgan 3-wheelers discovered many years ago that imperial sizes were becoming scarce and brought all he could lay his hands on and stacked it under his house.......


Colin

Lotz-A-Landies
11th September 2008, 04:05 PM
Mike,
.... Diana's comment regarding greasing is maybe to ensure the bolt doesn't rust in the bush so that it can be removed in the future without the use of a hacksaw or gas axe. If the shackle bolts are done up tight enough once the springs are bearing the weight of the car it shouldn't be an issue....

Colin

Mike

Colin has got the comment on the grease in one, the preference is to use an anti-sieze compound on the shackle pins, or in the absence of that then use grease to make the removal of the shackle pins possible 5, 10 or 30 years down the track.

The pins and lock-nuts should be done up tight when the vehicle is sitting on it's own weight. The friction will prevent the pins turning and the bushes to do their job.

Diana

P.S. Colin, make sure that your mate doesn't sell his imperial sized stock to the scrappers that he leaves it to someone who can use it for it's proper purpose.

P.P.S. (Addit) I should have mentioned on my earlier post. If you have worn out S1 springs, particularly ones where the main and 2nd leaf have worn into each other and can not find a good second hand set to refurbish, then there is another option before you buy a new set.

The problem of sagged springs is usually the main and second leaf. The spring widths and lengths are the same for all 86", 88", 107", 109" and for the front of the 80" from late in 1950 through the end of production. Similarly for the rear springs after 1953. Instead of throwing out the originals, take the spring pack apart and replace the main and second leaf with leaves available for the series 3. For the 80" narrow spings, consider having a new main leaf and possibly the second leaf made then reburbish the remaining leaves from the original set.

vin16660088
11th September 2008, 08:45 PM
hey Troy, this is what i tried to explain to you via PM, you can salvage one good one out of this, its a case of 1+1+1 still =1, will try and get pictures of the other stuff

olmate
12th September 2008, 08:46 PM
I have done not too much over the last couple of days except put Shorty in the shed where I can start to work on the motor better than having her outside :)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/676.jpg
A great op to clean out the place and yes I know that olmate could do with a polish as well ;)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/677.jpg

easo
12th September 2008, 09:04 PM
I'll be nackered Troy. You've been busy. Thats a fair bit of shifting since Wend night. Your now closer to the beer fridge :p

Work on LR,
have a beer,
work on LR,
have a beer.:D

olmate
12th September 2008, 09:14 PM
It did take me a couple of hours to sort out :) Those wheel trolley things are great for moving the heavy stuff - just need a decent jack to get the bench on and off.
Clean as a whistle now Daniel and yes - that beer fridge is very close to the work area. The home brew is now half decent to drink too :D:D:D
How did the 4wd'ing go with the ol'Landy mate.

olmate
13th September 2008, 02:08 PM
So what has been done / will happen today... I am waiting for a mate who is taking a break from nuilding his airplane to come around and see what we need to repair the rust spots on the ol girl then I may have a home brew (again);)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/653.jpg
This week coming I shall have the key barrel looked at and a couple of new keys cut here locally in town so I can then see what shorty sounds like when she starts (she is meant to go you know):)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/654.jpg
I will be staring the tidy-up on the motor and, sorry all, this one is not going to look like ol ute - she will just be cleaned up; not painted with a fancy 'rocket red' like I have done in the past. The effort in painting shall go into the body panels. Once she runs I shall look at the usual things such as clutch, brakes (they need attention) and start on some electrickery things.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/655.jpg
I have ordered a new 'replacement' bumper which shall take a few weeks and whilst that happens I shall continue my looking around for a couple of guards. And I have been very lucky to have (hopefully) found some bits and pieces to help me out along the way - thanks Anthony and Easo.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/656.jpg
And peoples - as for the advice... it has been very well received and please do keep it coming.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/657.jpg

series1buff
14th September 2008, 09:42 AM
Troy

You'll be looking for straight front guards til the cows come home .

This might sound wacky, but you can solve the problem to some degree by making new guards , or part thereof .

The guard inner panels and the main top/front panel , should be within most peoples skill level. Buy some sheet aluminium and make up a jig out of angle iron or something. (you'll need a sheet folder). You can glue the bits together .. no need to spot weld . The outer panels are another story , these have complex shapes .

On the electrical side .. I recommend buying a new ignition coil . Many of those 50 year old coils are 'dodgy' and they provide weak spark .

Mike

PS The trolley devices are neat .. what a brilliant idea !

olmate
14th September 2008, 04:05 PM
Mike,

I have three possibilities with 'better' front guards and should know by the end of this week if I have done any good or not. 2 out of the 3 are happy to part with them and the other bloke is thinking of hanging onto his (sounds like they may be the ones that I want). If this doesn't work out, I shall have to see what can be done with what I have.

Have just sourced a NOS ignition switch complete and shall be looking at the ignition coil before I get too carried away with the motor.

And I have also found a 1949 80" for sale during all of this 'searching' for bits. Shall take a look at this next week as well (Michelle is going to hate me) :o

Those trolley things are all the way from China :) Not bad for a few bucks :D

Rangier Rover
14th September 2008, 09:26 PM
Mike,

I have three possibilities with 'better' front guards and should know by the end of this week if I have done any good or not. 2 out of the 3 are happy to part with them and the other bloke is thinking of hanging onto his (sounds like they may be the ones that I want). If this doesn't work out, I shall have to see what can be done with what I have.

Have just sourced a NOS ignition switch complete and shall be looking at the ignition coil before I get too carried away with the motor.

And I have also found a 1949 80" for sale during all of this 'searching' for bits. Shall take a look at this next week as well (Michelle is going to hate me) :o

Those trolley things are all the way from China :) Not bad for a few bucks :D

Don't you dare caniblize a 49.:mad: I need it for mine:D;)
You are making good progres:)
Tony

olmate
15th September 2008, 04:27 PM
Very happy :D:D:D - should have this new switch by the weekend:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/467.jpg
Might find myself a coil tomorrow :) I also need to find a replacement speedo too as mine has no detailing left in the gauge.

Col.Coleman
15th September 2008, 05:13 PM
If you can't find one, of it is expensive to find one, PM John R, I'll think you will find him most helpfull.

Oh, and where can I get some of those trolleys?

CC

olmate
15th September 2008, 06:00 PM
Thanks CC - I shall do that.

The trolleys (cant remember what they were actually called) were bought from Total Tools. There were some really good ones that jacked the wheel up themselves; then there was these ones. I got the 4 for the price of 1 of the other ones. Very handy bit of kit. :D Super Cheap has had them as well. I think that the more expensive ones were called car positioning jacks.

series1buff
15th September 2008, 07:43 PM
Troy and others

With FADED GAUGE FACES , YOU CAN FIX THE PROBLEM.

I used a simple programe like paintshop ,and printed some new petrol gauge faces .. you simply cut them out and stick them over the old faded face .. you then have a brand new looking face .

It's a bit fiddly getting it right, I haven't done a speedo face yet .

Most towns have a print place that will print them for you, just put it on a CD or floppy. on a A4 sheet you'll get 8 petrol gauge faces.

The gauges are easy to dismantle .. with those 80" speedos , its worth cleaning them and oiling the gears . You repaint the black rim.

I rebuilt a ig/light switch.. lots of stuffing around .. needs patience and a steady hand .. I finally got it back together and it works great now .

Mike

chazza
16th September 2008, 06:29 PM
Mike can you detail the process more exactly? How did you get the dial face onto your computer - by photograph I presume?

The last time I did this was on a pre-war Vauxhall speedo. I photocopied the damaged dial face, enlarging it at the same time. I then touched up the image on the paper with black ink and a fine-line felt pen and ruler. When it was dry I photo-reduced it on the copier and my cobber glued it onto his old dial. I think he covered it in a clear lacquer, but I can't remember,

Cheers Charlie

olmate
16th September 2008, 06:50 PM
Yes pls Mike. I have no info to go on. A search on Google has shown nothing for this vehicle and I cant make out anything on my gauge. All efforts by me so far - aren't worth talking about :mad:

Col.Coleman
16th September 2008, 10:48 PM
If you want, I have perfect guages in the 2a I just got and can photo them for you.

John R is Otto intsruments and this is what he does, and can rebuild them if needed as well. See if he can help. I can show him my one to do the job on yours.

CC

JDNSW
17th September 2008, 05:38 AM
If you want, I have perfect guages in the 2a I just got and can photo them for you.
......

CC

I think we are talking about an 80" - the gauges are totally different to the 2a.

John

Col.Coleman
17th September 2008, 07:35 AM
Yeah should of realised. I was looking at the ones in the utes, and they are pretty similar except for the trip. It would give you the style and font though wouldn't it and yoou could print it on clear decal sheet and cut and paste.

Got your pm olmate and I'll pass it on:)

CC

series1buff
17th September 2008, 09:38 AM
Charlie

You scan the old instrument face with a scanner .. it's a device used to scan photos and stuff into your computer .. they are very common these days .. It's a slow process re-colouring the dials in a software program , but once its done , you can print hundreds of them . I did a chevy truck speedo face years ago, it came out perfect .

Another way, the newsagents used to sell those rub on letters , made by Letraset .. in many font styles . If your handy with a compass , scribe out the speedo dial on some quality black art paper or something, and use the letraset rub on numbers .. then use that or photocopy it .The clear laquer on top is a good idea to prevent moisture intrusion.

It's up to your imagination as to how to do it .. there are many ways .

series1buff
19th September 2008, 10:16 AM
Troy

Click on this link

Land Rover Series 1 80" Speedo new!!!!!! - eBay, Other Car Parts, Accessories, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 25-Sep-08 14:42:59 AEST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Land-Rover-Series-1-80-Speedo-new_W0QQitemZ150295950095QQihZ005QQcategoryZ6763QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

If each of us put in, say, 20 bucks, we could , maybe, just manage to buy that speedo . Take turns at having it in our vehicles. I think the seller has been smoking something stronger than tobacco. For that money, you could buy a complete 80", with all the instruments fitted . I bought 2 ( 80" wrecks ) for $150 each .. 3 years ago, one had all its gauges still there !

Mike

olmate
19th September 2008, 02:58 PM
Sounds like the plan :o Geeze - I hope the 80" I am looking at tomorrow has one in it and the bloke trying to sell it to me doesn't realise how much these speedos are worth.......

olmate
20th September 2008, 09:19 PM
Shorty Runs ....... :D:D:D Yes the motor does go anow I can start on other things. She just needed the usual bits to replace the old crap around the dizzy - and she was off ;)

And as for that 1949 Landy I got to look at - it is an early 1950 80" that has a decent chassis and bulkhead. That was it, all panels stuffed and extras welded on here and there. He wants $1K for it so it shall be staying where it sits; in his 'dog yard', as a shelter come wind break for the 5 dogs.

series1buff
20th September 2008, 10:09 PM
Shorty Runs ....... :D:D:D Yes the motor does go anow I can start on other things. She just needed the usual bits to replace the old crap around the dizzy - and she was off ;)

And as for that 1949 Landy I got to look at - it is an early 1950 80" that has a decent chassis and bulkhead. That was it, all panels stuffed and extras welded on here and there. He wants $1K for it so it shall be staying where it sits; in his 'dog yard', as a shelter come wind break for the 5 dogs.

Ah! Good news with your motor and Bad luck re: the 50 ..

I had a similar experience .. I looked at a early 50 with a excellent chassis and bulkhead.. but the tub was a home made affair of angle iron and steel panels .. the front guards had been re-panelled with pop rivet on steel panels. It came with a spare motor .. but the car was very used and worn out .. badly worn steering box etc. It was running .. barely ! He wanted $2500 for it !!!!

I also got onto a wide front spring 51 ( with a Annund and Thompson I.D. plate on it ) .. been 'Holdenised' though . Fitted with a hardtop .. he wanted $1200 .

Mike

olmate
21st September 2008, 10:34 AM
That's it - I've stopped for the weekend. Shorty is set well for me to start around the motor and that can wait for a bit. The chassis may get looked at next weekend (or I may get into the brakes) who knows.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/358.jpg
I am happy with how she is coming along tho.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/359.jpg

I lied - I went back into the garage abd took off the water pump and she is stuffed.(any body know where I can get a new one?)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/360.jpg

dennisS1
22nd September 2008, 08:28 AM
yes but they cost, can tell you how to fix it for about $50.
Dennis

series1buff
22nd September 2008, 12:05 PM
yes but they cost, can tell you how to fix it for about $50.
Dennis

Well, dont keep us in suspense Dennis ... PLEASE

I rebuilt one using a $50 Chev kit, but it was a lot of work and stuffing around.

Troy : Rover parts at Ballarat did have new S1 water pumps on their list at around $200 .. but the quality may be suspect ..made in India I think. Land Rover parts - Home (http://www.roverparts.com.au)

Mike

ellard
22nd September 2008, 12:14 PM
Hi there Troy

I have three rebuilt one's - which should be here next week (one is for Ian Turner as I borrowed one of his on the way to Cooma in March)

I have tried several ways of rebuilding (including using a fergy tractor water pump kit). The best way in my opinion is a retired gentleman at Milang (SA) whom has been rebuilding them for me for around $70. He does make a kit but strongly advises for the old water pump to be sent to him as there is a little bit of machining (he also casts up new impellors etc)

Give me a call and I will tell you more.

Wayne

olmate
22nd September 2008, 03:49 PM
Thanks Wayne - shall give you a buzz tonite. :D

olmate
24th September 2008, 06:41 PM
Nothing done over the last few days except mounting the coil and fuel pump properly, repalcing the fuel line and starting on the wiring.

Lotz-A-Landies
24th September 2008, 07:40 PM
Well, dont keep us in suspense Dennis ... PLEASE

I rebuilt one using a $50 Chev kit, but it was a lot of work and stuffing around.

Troy : Rover parts at Ballarat did have new S1 water pumps on their list at around $200 .. but the quality may be suspect ..made in India I think. Land Rover parts - Home (http://www.roverparts.com.au)

Mike
Mike

IMHO How can anything that was designed and built for a purpose, be considered any worse than something hybridised by "a lot of work and stuffing around".

Products manufactured in India are now competing with the best from Europe, in fact Europe is sourcing a lot of Indian manufactured goods. The determining factor is the quality control. Just like Japan in the immediate post-War period there were problems, however like Japan, India's manufacturing sector is maturing and well made product will be the result.

Fusion
24th September 2008, 08:22 PM
Howdy Troy , Mate you have done a magic job on shorty so far . So going to get Goblin out of the shed tomorrow and do something to him :D;) . Thanks for the motivation :D. Good luck with the bits you need to get ;) .

olmate
25th September 2008, 05:01 PM
Thanks Mick - I am really enjoying the 80" :D

I have been told that my 'new' bumper will be ready next week ;) - Thanks Ian; you are a legend mate :thumbsup: And (fingers crossed) I shall have sourced some front guards by the weekend :arms: as I am just waiting on a phonecall with some pics :D:D:D. I reckon that I can repair the tailgate and some of the doors ;) - I'll give it a go.

There shall be more photos this weekend as I continue with the tidying up around the motor and fix the rust on Sunday :)

series1buff
25th September 2008, 05:42 PM
Just to clear up my comments regarding 'made in India'. I should have written: 'made offshore' which covers all of Asia !

Some of the water pump bearings made 'offshore' are of dubious quality . This I know cos I've been caught out with them - they last a few months and become loose and sloppy.

Troy: a new tailgate should be fairly easy to make .. it really sets off the vehicle too, a nice flat - no dents tailgate. You remove the outer galv. channel and the dome head rivets with an old sharp wood chisel .. rather than drilling them. The middle rib is a 'top hat section' shape .. you may be able to re-use it ... you can drill out the spot welds and undo tailgate . Fold up a new main panel ( you can use steel if you wish .. nobody will know once it is painted) . Then re-asemble by whatever means you have on hand .. a good panel adhesive will suffice, or rivets even. It's not a critical load bearing structural panel in that sense, it just sits there.

Mike

olmate
25th September 2008, 07:14 PM
Mike this sounds like I can manage it. My tailgate doesn't have a middle rib section so I shall have to manufacture this bit.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/153.jpg
You are right tho; a nice straight tailgate will look the bit ;) I shall need some chain hooks as mine are long gone as they have been ripped out of the main panel of the tailgate.

series1buff
25th September 2008, 07:54 PM
The tub on my 80" was the usual rough tub.. dents everywhere ,:mad: specially inside where tools and stuff had been thrown in over the years. I came up with a sneaky solution..:angel: I had no hope of getting the original panels straight so. I made up some new panels from thin sheet and stuck them on top of the 'knobbly shaped' ones :eek: I also did this with the front panel , where the seat backs rest . I used Liquid nails and a few rivets here and there. .. you can grind down the rivets level after the adhesive has set . At first glance .. you see nice dead straight panels inside ... it takes a close look to work out whats gone on... no spot weld dimples.

I was going to use this technique on the tub outer/side panels too, but I ended up 'bogging' them.

BTW the Cooma s1 winner also had the sneaky 'hide the rough original tub floor ' trick done with a fake new panel over the top. But I did it first !

Mike

olmate
26th September 2008, 06:45 AM
Its not quite ready yet but I am so impressed with it I have to show it off. ;)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/136.jpg
None of this work is mine. I have to thank Ian so much for this as his work is just great. :D Shorty is going to be looking so good :BigThumb:

a BIG thanks mate.

back_in
26th September 2008, 10:51 PM
Hi Troy
please wait until I tell you the size of the bottle of Scotch and the type I like
before you sing my praise.
The bar went to the Gav. people today
Monday will be the day I get it back
cheers
Ian

ellard
27th September 2008, 06:27 AM
please wait until I tell you the size of the bottle of Scotch and the type I like
before you sing my praise.


Hi there Troy - you have heard of the human fish before - the little fellow can drink.

Wayne

olmate
27th September 2008, 08:24 AM
Thanks for the warning Wayne :o

And I was thinking that the only issue was going to be a 'full' Scotch bottle leaving my house ;)

back_in
27th September 2008, 12:05 PM
Troy
the big fellow has been seen, one leg after another with 1/2 empty bottle of Bundy in the back pocket
when I was in training, I have left a formal at 0530hrs and kicked the troops out of their far.. sacks, then went back to the mess.
My mess bill looked like the USA prime loan a/c
cheers
Ian

olmate
27th September 2008, 05:23 PM
:Rolling::Rolling::Rolling::Rolling::Rolling:
Well said mate ..... Well said

olmate
28th September 2008, 06:39 PM
Got into the rust today. From this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/91.jpg
Now we have this. Still needing some work to get it flat as I can beut she is solid and is coming up a treat:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/92.jpg
I did get a bit distracted tho towards the last bit of work on the chassis. So it will have to wait until next weekend. It does need some new internal brackets made before she goes back together; then she''l be right.... ;)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/93.jpg
I'll give the chassis a good clean out this week and spray some decent rust killing stuff inside it before the ends go on. :D

olmate
29th September 2008, 06:23 PM
Ian / Wayne - you both knew that I was going to put this picture up.... :D
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/31.jpg

Col.Coleman
29th September 2008, 07:14 PM
All stocked up Ian

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/29.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/30.jpg

When can you start?:twisted:

CC

back_in
29th September 2008, 09:07 PM
Yes I am a tart of the first water (Scotch type)
if you wish to offer the real good stuff i.e.
Highland Park
Cardhu
Isle of Jura
1970 Balmenach
1978 Knockando
Talisker
Bruichladdich
etc etc etc
work will be forthcoming
cheers
Ian

Col.Coleman
29th September 2008, 09:39 PM
Yes I am a tart of the first water (Scotch type)
if you wish to offer the real good stuff i.e.
Highland Park You're kidding, It's no better than 100 pipers
Cardhu OK
Isle of Jura OK
1970 Balmenach Yeah well Good Luck
1978 Knockando Ditto
Talisker OK
Bruichladdich Which one? There are several decent drops from this Island, all imported by woolworths
etc etc etc
work will be forthcoming
cheers
Ian

The good drop is easy to get a hold of.
Getting you to Brisvegas will be the hard part.
Have on hand JW Blue, green and Gold. JW Swing. Chivas Blue. George Hennessy Congac. Various Glenmorangie etc, etc.

Try some good other spirits.
Woodford reserve Bourbon.
Angostura 8 and 12yo rums. The 12yo is devine. You won't drink Bundy again.
Canadian Club Black 12yo. Good consumer drink. Smooth.

The big swing Chivas is for the peasants to keep them out of the good stuff. Sorry to have offended you.

By the way. I'm a heathen. I will mix it. Mostly with dry, but sometimes with Pepsi max:twisted::twisted::twisted:

CC

back_in
29th September 2008, 10:19 PM
Hi Col
you have one thing going for you
you and Cad Club have something in common ( C C )
please change the way you drink the good stuff
it has enough liquid with it there is no need to add coke
or other rubbish to the product that greater men than you and I
have made.
getting back to another topic we have in common
I do like Land Rovers and if I can help someone to get something they need
they only have to ask
cheers
Ian

Bisho
30th September 2008, 12:27 AM
troy

what did you do to the firewall. i.e you filled it right?

olmate
30th September 2008, 05:35 AM
No Bisho, A steel plate was made to fit what was cut out of it then it was welded back in place and sanded as flat as we could get it. She may need some filling to get it back to totally flat tho.
Some mucking around but well worth it. :)

olmate
30th September 2008, 05:39 PM
Here is a question for you all. Where do I get my hands on the rubber air-intake hose for Shorty??
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/11.jpg
Or do I give up go for an alternative?

Col.Coleman
30th September 2008, 08:50 PM
When you find out, let me know.

On second thought, check the series 1 parts link in the sticky section, especially the link in post 2.

CC

back_in
30th September 2008, 09:17 PM
Hi
I have one, very dagy
Dunsfold in U.k.
have the org bit
it's only 6 days from ordering to arrival
cheers
Ian

easo
30th September 2008, 09:29 PM
Looking good mate.:D

olmate
1st October 2008, 04:29 PM
Dunsfold in U.k.
have the org bit
it's only 6 days from ordering to arrival
cheers
Ian

Thanks Ian - email has been sent to Dunsfold. ;)

olmate
2nd October 2008, 04:51 PM
Spent some time today with the high-pressure cleaner thru the chassis etc. I know that the Landy was used to cart dirt around a property but... what can I say.... it still comes out in bucket loads.:)

Degreased the fuel tank too. Thats because the fuel was well and truly off. It was green inside that tannk :o - it stank - but now she is as clean as a whistle. But - the tank leaks :(

papadad
3rd October 2008, 12:24 PM
Hi Olmate,
Saw your note about just getting a 1952 series 1, well , I just picked up a 1951 series 1 which I'll start restoring soon.
I'd like to keep in touch with you as we both proceed, my email is kurandabed@tpg.com.au
Kindest regards, Lyle

ellard
3rd October 2008, 02:40 PM
Hi there Lyle and welcome to the forum

Would love to see some pictures of your 51......and where are you based.

Wayne

Dinty
3rd October 2008, 02:42 PM
G'day All, I would have as a guess Kuranda? cheers Dennis:angel:

series1buff
3rd October 2008, 03:05 PM
But - the tank leaks :(

hi

That is a very common problem with older Land Rovers . I have six 80" tanks and they were all stuffed to varying degrees. I began making a new tank .. gave up - lots of work and metal skill needed . The quickest and practical solution is; a sealer . I picked out the least rusted tank.. removed the bottom mount... I unsoldered it with a torch, but be carefull.. if any trace of fumes is there .. DONT DONT use a flame .. In my case a flame was OK as the tank had been dry for decades .. it didn't blow up.

I used the caustic soda-battery charger rust removal method..

http://www.htpaa.org.au/article-electro.php

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm


its very cheap and very effective . I half filled a large plastic wheelie bin with hot water and caustic soda... then mounted the + the electrode inside the petrol tank and the - Neg electrode on the tank itself ... let it go for a few hours .. it removes rust incredibly well . I find that Laundry soaker works well too, the caustic soda is nasty stuff and the laundry soaker isnt ... anything with sodium carbonate in it works.. its 3 bucks for a 1kg tub of laundry soaker . Apparently its NOT good to use stainless steel as your + ANODE cos it emits highly toxic stuff. And Don't use this process indoors as Hydrogen gas is there and a spark will result in a boom. You need a PLASTIC NON-conducting container .. not metal .

After a thorough clean and de-rust.. I re-attached the lower mount . I glued it on with a fibreglass filler .

I used the PPC seal kit .. but I see in restored cars magazine .. you can now buy the seal stuff in a powder form by post. .. you mix it with acetone . You use a acid wash for a final clean . As long as the tank is structurally sound e.g., not falling apart.. the sealer is the way to go .

I did two tanks together because the sealer isnt storable .. once its opened .. thats it , it goes off .

Mike

olmate
3rd October 2008, 07:21 PM
Thanks Mike.

I shall be giving that a go as the sealer is just falling out of the bottom edges of the tank. It is in good knick over all so it shall be the way to go :D

back_in
3rd October 2008, 09:23 PM
Troy
a cheaper method of sealing tanks
use blue PVC sealer, watered down a little PVC pipe cleaner.
pour it in the tank and coat the whole inside
then let it set
I have not used it yet as all my tanks have been sound
been told it is as good or better than dear stuff.
there may be others out there with more thoughts on this subject
cheers
Ian

alexmassey
4th October 2008, 08:50 AM
I have used Red-Kote and found it to be quite good.

Fuel Tank and Radiator Service - Red-Kote® - Fuel Tank Liner (http://www.ftrs.com.au/fueltanks/red_kote.php)

olmate
4th October 2008, 09:00 AM
Thanks all. There must be a heap of different ways to go. Now that I have some info on soultions I shall now start asking questions around Wodonga and see what comes up.:D

series1buff
4th October 2008, 12:25 PM
This is the place that sells the Red-Kote petrol tank sealer in powder form

http://www.ftrs.com.au/fueltanks/red_kote.php

I have nothing to do with this company.. just found the ad in Restored Cars mag.

Mike

slug_burner
4th October 2008, 01:28 PM
Hello Troy and others,

One dedicated restorer you are, my 53 is still waiting for me to get enthused enough now that the weather is a bit warmer to work outside.

Derusting using electrolisis worked well for me. I used lectric soda crystal as used in the bath, not toxic and you can put your hands in it.

The rubber connector for the air cleaner carby elbow I picked up at cooma from a young bloke I think his name is Alex and he flogs stuff via ebay from Bendigo. From memory I think I paid $30-40.

I have yet to repair a fuel tank and petrol is such a pain. You can use a soldering iron (big one and no flame) to sweat some solder and place some patches.

Always good to see others progress it tends to inspire the less motivated like me.

olmate
4th October 2008, 07:53 PM
I finished the carby and remainder of the fuel line today. All back together now and waiting to get the tank fixed so I can give her another run to confirm all work. Will have to wait a couple of weeks until I have the waterpump on and radiator hooked up; so its onto the front prop shaft and some welding in prep for the bumper :D:D:D

My plan is to cut a section out of my front cross member and weld in a replacement section of steel - allowing the prop shaft the room it needs. From initial inspection it doesn't need a lot cut out but I shall have another look tomorrow and compare measurements with what olmate has. ;)

Outside of this, I am thinking of work to be done to the brakes..... like getting some pressure. I have no idea what is needed yet but I shall rip off the wheels, drums etc over the next few weeks and have a look. I have a heap of time to get this done because it sounds like I shall be waiting a while to take a look at the few front guards that I have found that may be good enough for replacements. No drama tho as I am in no real hurry to start painting at this stage (must remember I said that) :)

From poking around the country side over the last few weeks I may have found a rear PTO that will be available for me. This needs to be confirmed yet but fingers are being crossed.;)

For everyone who has provided me with info and options etc for repairing my fuel tank - Thanks. I shall be doing some research and ringing around during the next week to sort things out.

olmate
8th October 2008, 04:36 PM
For everyone who has provided me with info and options etc for repairing my fuel tank - Thanks. I shall be doing some research and ringing around during the next week to sort things out.

Well its the Red-Kote that gets the thumbs up :) easy as pie; even a bloke like me can seal the tank ;)

Looking at Ian's work - do I paint the engine or not :( Need to think about that as I probably have the time....

ellard
9th October 2008, 07:45 AM
Hi there Troy


do I paint the engine or not :( Need to think about that as I probably have the time....

If you have the time - it does look terrific when finished......doesnt take much - as you already have the front guards off.

Take some time give the engine a good clean (I personaly like the high pressure water cleaner with degreaser) and armed with a couple of cans of engine paint from you local auto store the job is done.

All the best

Wayne

PS Thanks for you efforts with the 3pl.....

series1buff
9th October 2008, 12:49 PM
Looking at Ian's work - do I paint the engine or not :( Need to think about that as I probably have the time....
I found that kill rust stuff is great on dubious ill-prepared surfaces ... has very good adhesion . It only comes in a few colours however..and you cannot mix other paint with it to tint it. No matter what you use.. the motor will become dirty again.

olmate
9th October 2008, 03:55 PM
Thanks fellas,

I shall probably find an appropriate colour that is close enough to being acceptable and tidy the old girl up a bit. Would be silly not to do it with the guards off.:)

Wayne - I shall try Doug again tomorrow.

back_in
9th October 2008, 08:52 PM
Troy
if you get on bended knee I will send enough paint (if I can find a tin) for you to paint several engines.
If you do not go over board 2 laps around the engine with the gun is enough
cheers
Ian

p.s. I must be getting OLD, giving away good Enamel, far better than acrylic
get a good finish off the gun, stands up to grease dirt, washes clean
That's a spray gun not a smooth bore shot gun!! (grunt)

olmate
9th October 2008, 09:14 PM
Ian,
What can I say - Thanks Mate :D
And - as for my shot gun; shes been playing up lately and I wouldn't trust her with the spraying ... too many miss-feeds.

olmate
12th October 2008, 09:08 PM
Well - I got nothing done this weekend on Shorty :( ... but you get that. After all it was the little blokes first birthday today :D:D:D and we had a bl**dy great day after a bbq that seemed to start yesterday afternoon and end up some time late last night. Shorty was spoken about with a couple of enthusiasts over a beer; god only knows what plans I was speaking of :o

Back into it this week - might have a look at the brakes and the front cross member :)

Wayne - should all be good with the 3PL picked up tomorrow

olmate
14th October 2008, 06:08 PM
The new hose for the air intake arrived today and is now on :) She looks good. Have also found a pair of front guards in VIC that are for sale; photos to follow (hopefully tomorrow) - so I could be in business ;)

Must get into the brakes :D

graceysdad
14th October 2008, 07:34 PM
Looks like fun times ahead for Troy with this one, when did u sell the Olute Troy? I am still looking for something to play with.

olmate
15th October 2008, 05:33 AM
Gday GD,
Olute went in July (I think). Now resides in sunny melbourne with Sleepy. :)
This little one is great and requires a lot more work than Olute, but I am enjoying every bit of it. Can't wait to get it out and about. :D

olmate
15th October 2008, 05:40 PM
Exciting times - Ian informs me that my nice new bumper has been picked up from his place and is on its way to Wodonga :D:D:D (among some other bits he has helped me out with) ;) Cheers mate :thumbsup:

olmate
16th October 2008, 06:45 PM
Wal - you are a legend ;) I now have found some front panels for Shorty :D:D:D
A little bit of work required on them but they are streets ahead of what I have and bl**dy good :)
Here are a few pics of what I now have to work with:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/457.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/458.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/459.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/460.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/461.jpg
A little bit of panel beating is required (something else to learn) so what I am after is any info on "what is best" - hammers / techniques etc :)
Any help people - much appreciated.

back_in
16th October 2008, 10:16 PM
Troy
ring me when you can
will tell you how to turn crap panels into worth while bits
cheers
ian

olmate
17th October 2008, 03:00 PM
Thanks Ian - I am onto it.
Will let you know how I go with bits.

dickyjoe
17th October 2008, 04:16 PM
Gday Mate

I must pop around to check out this truck. Sounds like it is coming along.

Rich

olmate
17th October 2008, 07:29 PM
No worries Rich... but you cant come empty handed - bring a cold glass (I can supply the beer) :D:D:D

Justin - got your message. Thanks mate

dickyjoe
17th October 2008, 08:25 PM
I'll hold you to that Troy. What about 7:00am tomorrow :)

I am busting to get back into the rebuild of my trucks once I have finished the house....

olmate
18th October 2008, 07:14 AM
Early starter hey ;) Not much happening this weekend as have family down from Darwin. Next week should be good tho :)

olmate
18th October 2008, 07:58 PM
I lied - I did do a bit today. :) I spent some more time getting "more" sand out of the little car and replacing some pop-rivets etc. Then I did do some prep for some painting (jumped the gun a bit I know).:D
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/422.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/423.jpg
Looking at this - I should just start the prep work from the bulk-head back.

olmate
19th October 2008, 04:10 PM
And that is what I did today :) Taking the chance to learn how to use the new spray gun by prep spraying the cab and tub...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/406.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/407.jpg

Now a question for the blokes who know what they are doing when it comes to painting .... How far do I take the panels back to get the outside of the Landy looking good? Is it necessary to totally strip them or do I sand back and use primer and filler to get a flat finish prior to the green stuff going on??

back_in
19th October 2008, 08:31 PM
Hi Troy
It all depends on time, money and the finish you want.
Far be it for me to quote or give advice.
to go back to bare metal is best etc, etc,
but time you have to do it will dictate your finish.
If you do the short cut way, rub the old paint with 300/400 paper.
take the gloss off, prime and patch holes and dents with filer etc.
Sand back, try and get the high and lows out.
re prime, sand back with 600, then hit with your top coat.
have fun
cheers
Ian

easo
20th October 2008, 12:06 AM
G'day Troy, it always shocks me every time I see your thread and see how much effort goes into your project.

I hope one day I'm in one place long enought to re-do my old girl and have time to give her more attention.

I love watching this thread, Easo

chazza
20th October 2008, 09:21 AM
G'day Troy, looking good mate!

I suggest a bare-metal approach is best in case the old paint reacts with the new and by getting it back to bare, at least you know what is underneath it - corrosion, bog etc.

Yesterday, I rubbed down by hand the small panels that cover the inspection holes in the bulkhead and found that all of them had corrosion under the paint. An old power-hacksaw blade used as a scraper, is a very effective way of getting old paint off quickly,

Cheers Charlie

olmate
20th October 2008, 05:41 PM
Thanks all. I shall be getting into the "rubbing" this weekend and see what is ahead of me.

Ian - that bumper is beaut mate ;)

back_in
20th October 2008, 06:00 PM
thanks mate
do not look tooooooo hard
it not a work of art
it's only a bit of steel
when we catch up, the first beer is on thee
cheers
Ian


p.s. am glad you are happy with it
also do not make it that good, or every one will want one

olmate
21st October 2008, 06:58 PM
I reckon that I have set up some more welding for this weekend. So the chassis should "almost" be done by Sunday :D
But I shall get some sand paper tomorrow for some serious fun sanding back what panels I have in prep for some painting not "too far" down the track. :)
Oh yes - and there is the red-kote for the tank (if it arrives) ;)

olmate
24th October 2008, 04:07 PM
No welding done this weekend as my mate can't get over here (and my welding isn't good enough for the chassis ... yep - its that bad!):D

So it looks like I start sanding instead and I can always paint the donk now - can't I Ian ;)

olmate
25th October 2008, 12:02 PM
Well I have given the motor a bit of paint:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/201.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/202.jpg
She looks ok for the first coat - shall let her dry off pretty well and give it a tidy-up.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/203.jpg
The brush worked well thanks Ian.;)

dickyjoe
25th October 2008, 12:14 PM
Looks great Troy. Did you remove the manifolds and rocker cover etc when you painted?

Lotz-A-Landies
25th October 2008, 12:17 PM
Interesting choice of engine colour there troy!

Any reason for the series 2a colour.

Diana

olmate
25th October 2008, 03:27 PM
Looks great Troy. Did you remove the manifolds and rocker cover etc when you painted?

No mate - just took my time and painted around things. She has come up pretty good.


Interesting choice of engine colour there troy! Any reason for the series 2a colour. Diana

Diana - The paint was the right price ;) and "I think" it looks pretty good. Seeing as I was going to leave it to start with; I have no complaints.

series1buff
25th October 2008, 03:33 PM
Looks clean troy... I see the carby has been cleaned. Did you put a kit in it ?

Is that a aluminium alloy steering box case there.. I've been told that the tubular column has been known to come loose where it rivets onto the housing . The box can wobble around on the bulkhead too as rust tends to eat away the bulkhead beneath the box support plate... an ideal environment for it there, sandwiched metal. I've seen so many 80"' with a bit of a farmyard - backyard fix .. they either rivet or bolt a bit of heavy gauge sheet inside the bulkhead , on the drivers side , in an attempt to support the steering box.

Mike

Lotz-A-Landies
25th October 2008, 03:46 PM
Diana - The paint was the right price ;) and "I think" it looks pretty good. That's as good a reason as any.

Is it the genuine Rover egg shell colour in an engine enamel?

Where did you get it?

Diana

olmate
25th October 2008, 07:01 PM
Looks clean troy... I see the carby has been cleaned. Did you put a kit in it ?

Is that a aluminium alloy steering box case there.. I've been told that the tubular column has been known to come loose where it rivets onto the housing . The box can wobble around on the bulkhead too as rust tends to eat away the bulkhead beneath the box support plate... an ideal environment for it there, sandwiched metal. I've seen so many 80"' with a bit of a farmyard - backyard fix .. they either rivet or bolt a bit of heavy gauge sheet inside the bulkhead , on the drivers side , in an attempt to support the steering box.

Mike

Mike - I have stripped the carby and given it a thorough scrubbing. As it seemed in pretty good knick (and because the car was running before I touched it) I put it back together. Fingers crossed it will be fine when I get to start it again :D My steering box has already had the support thing done to it - it seems. I have a solid brace through the bulkhead and it sits pretty well where it is at the moment. But now that you have told me - I shall have a good look at it before things go back together. Cheers


That's as good a reason as any. Is it the genuine Rover egg shell colour in an engine enamel? Where did you get it?
Diana

Diana - I was lucky enough to be given some by a mate who thought I should "pull my finger out" and tidy her up properly :D:D:D. Ian sent some to me when he sent my new front bumper. It is enamel and went on very well with a brush and some taping around the manifolds.

series1buff
26th October 2008, 10:17 AM
Ah thats fine .. if its been sitting for years .. sometimes the two diaphrams in the accelerator pump can go hard and the pump will not function correctly . Some brands of kits don't have new diaphrams which is a pain . I was looking into possibly buying a sheet of that material and making some diaphrams up as its silly buying a whole kit just for the diaphrams. There is also a fibre gasket that goes between the main body and the acc. pump housing.. petrol tends to weep there if the gasket isn't a perfect fit.

The little valve below acc. pump can jam too .. it is inside one of the screw in plugs.

They are sensitive to fuel pump pressure too. 1.5 to 2.5 psi is the range you need .. they run rich with higher fuel pressure. The guys on the WW2 Jeep forum are forever complaining of SOLEX carbies running rich... many of them use the Indian made SOLEX PBIC on their Jeeps ... its a carby that is made specifically for the Indian Mahindra jeeps .. but they market it ( in the USA mainly ) as a replacement for the WW2 jeeps .. it bolts straight on. It's very similar to a series 1 LR carby.

BTW the 4 cylinder petrol F head WILLYS motor ( same format as our series 1 motors) as used from early 50's in the CJ3B jeeps, is still in producton in India ... for the local market. The export version Mahindra has a licensed built Peugot diesel fitted.

Mike

chazza
26th October 2008, 11:48 AM
Nice work Troy!

Mine has a bent bit of plate on the driver's side of the bulkhead as well, which I intend to replace with a new piece. Mike is quite right about the rust starting behind the steering box, mine was a shocking mess there :( I think I will squirt Balistol, or Lanox or something like that in there regularly to make sure it doesn't come back,

Cheers Charlie

back_in
26th October 2008, 04:55 PM
Hi Troy/Diana
the paint was mixed by Protec and is Equipment Enamel
the tint codes is as follows
Tint Grams
0000 80
0503 208
2511 144.4
7543 44.4
8544 549

I had it matched from a sample off a old Landy engine
what made you think it's a 2A colour Diana as I got it off a 1600 motor
cheers
Ian

olmate
27th October 2008, 06:16 PM
Here we go - I have the grille panel going in for some welding tomorrow and (hopefully) I can have it repaired :D
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/143.jpg
Both ends on the bottom edge are in need of some TLC.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/144.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/145.jpg

olmate
30th October 2008, 05:20 PM
I got a phone call today to be told that my front grille panel was ready for picking up:). Let me tell you – work didn’t get in the way of me doing just that! I was out there like a flash and very, very happy with the results :D:D:D:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/62.jpg
The fella has reinforced the bottom part by welding additional small panels in behind the original;). As the panel had previously cracked or broken along this section it sounded like it was a good idea. I do have some holes to drill (but I am sure that I can manage that bit):D
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/63.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/64.jpg
Overall – it will need some minor touch up with spray-putty but she will come up a treat. (Thanks for that tip Ian – I am preparing myself to be doing a lot of it after I give the panel beating a go).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/65.jpg
I am getting excited now as the project is coming together nicely, thanks to a lot of help from people on this forum, and should be going together over my Christmas break. There isn’t anything better than this to do over a break from work. I am really looking forward to it.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/66.jpg
Anyway – to this weekend… The Red-Kote has arrived and I shall sort out that leaky fuel tank on Saturday :o. Then it is the welding of the horns to get the bumper where it should be (can’t wait to admire that thing in the right spot). Monday shall see me tidying up some of my undercoating that is around the bulkhead and I may try to sort out the speedo (again – thanks to Ian’s help here);). Whilst on Tuesday – I reckon I need to get things done before 1200 as there is an opportunity to have a few beers come that time :twobeers:(oh yes – apparently there is a horse race on too). :beer:

Whilst all of this is happening during the weekend, I shall be admiring my work and placing up as many photos as I possibly can for all of you lot to look at :rulez:(that’s if I can get my daughter off the computer).

back_in
30th October 2008, 10:27 PM
Hi Troy
Cut the plug off the P.C., that will fix that problem.
It is good to see you could get the panel fixed.
He did a good job welding it up.
I had a interesting day painting yesterday.
too much dust and flying pest's.
Look's like I will using lot more wet and dry.
cheers
Ian

ellard
31st October 2008, 07:19 AM
Hi there Troy

The water pumps are ready for pick up - will sort out when I get back home from up north..........eventually..........what a big week.

Ian "back-in" - how did tea go last night did you make here do the dishes.....

Wayne

PS will call you over the weekend..................

olmate
31st October 2008, 02:33 PM
Thanks Wayne - shall hear from you soon.

Ian - I would cut off the plug but then I can t use it. She has gone to a mates place for the weekend so I will have no problem for a couple of days.
Bugger about the painting so far. I reckon that will be something for me to watch out for once I get into it.

olmate
1st November 2008, 04:58 PM
I lost half the day with doing "other stuff" around the home but I still got the tank off and cleaned up. She was rusty alright :o
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/937.jpg
But after a degrease and a high-pressure scrub she started to look good. As I had mixed the Red-Kote in prep for use tomorrow, I sprayed Penetrol over the outside of everything. Even using it on the chassis where I had not been able to get around before.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/938.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/939.jpg
I shall let things dry off around the chassis overnight and hit it with some rust-proofing under body stuff tomorrow. Same for the tank after the Red-Kote has dried.
She should not leak anything for a long time. ;)

Hartley
2nd November 2008, 03:43 AM
I dont know if it has been brought up recently, but I was once told that cracking on the radiator support panel is due to not replacing some rubber spacers/buffers which between the panel and the chassis.
Has anyone seen these or one know what these buffers are supposed to look like?

chazza
2nd November 2008, 08:06 AM
I dont know if it has been brought up recently, but I was once told that cracking on the radiator support panel is due to not replacing some rubber spacers/buffers which between the panel and the chassis.
Has anyone seen these or one know what these buffers are supposed to look like?

They are shown in the parts book and are square and about 1/4" thick from memory. Their function is to stop the panel rubbing on the chassis cross-member.

I suspect the panel cracks because of its inadequate design in coping with: the weight of the radiator, bonnet and spare wheel, plus people standing on the wings and bonnet because they can. Coupled with vibration, the poor little thing at the bottom of the heap, is bound to give up eventually,

Cheers Charlie

JDNSW
2nd November 2008, 08:51 AM
They are shown in the parts book and are square and about 1/4" thick from memory. Their function is to stop the panel rubbing on the chassis cross-member.

I suspect the panel cracks because of its inadequate design in coping with: the weight of the radiator, bonnet and spare wheel, plus people standing on the wings and bonnet because they can. Coupled with vibration, the poor little thing at the bottom of the heap, is bound to give up eventually,

Cheers Charlie

There is a reason Series 2 changed to steel - but many Series 2 and 3 I have found have the tabs that support the panel cracked!

Having the rubber there and elastic is probably worthwhile to reduce the cracking, though. The material is reinforced insertion rubber, and 1/4" thick sounds right.

John

olmate
2nd November 2008, 04:57 PM
Now that my three brackets are claned up and ready to go - I shall be looking for replacement rubber to use.

back_in
2nd November 2008, 09:43 PM
Hi All
I have 2 types in my collection, been rubber with re-enforcing.
both about 2 inches square, one type about 3/8 of a inch thick the other about 1/2 inch thick.
cheers
iAN

olmate
3rd November 2008, 02:09 PM
Busy day (now time for a beer :D) I have finished the fuel tank and fitted it. Very happy with the end result and I shall be even happier if it doesn't leak anymore ;)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/834.jpg'
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/835.jpg
I even got time to modify the front cross member so I could fit my new prop shaft.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/836.jpg

olmate
4th November 2008, 02:57 PM
All done for the weekend. Missed the horse race (you get that) but the bumper is on Shorty now and looks great. :D:D:D
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/519.jpg

Ian - I am as happy as a pig in mud mate :BigThumb:

It took a bit of mucking about to fix the ends of the chassis. But once that was out of the way I only had to get the holes in the right spot ;) I shall touch up the paintwork around the chassis and spring hangers during the week and then get stuck into sanding of panels.

back_in
4th November 2008, 09:19 PM
Hi Troy
Gee I am over the moon
first time I have seen trainer wheels on a Sir's vehicle.
I finally proves what a old digger always knew
with training anything is possible,even Sir's!!!!!
gee it is looking good
after I told you how to do some spay painting
I managed to put some wonderful runs in some of the best finished paint i have done
much rubbing back I will try and try again
cheers mate
Ian

olmate
5th November 2008, 06:02 PM
Well said Ian - I have been waiting for that. :D:D
Do you know that it was only recently that I have been allowed to work on it unsupervised :D I just needed a SNCO to keep an eye on things ;)

A bugger about the painting mate. You must post some pictures soon though, I am looking forward to seeing this.

olmate
8th November 2008, 04:48 PM
Well the day trip is over (Wodonga - Bathurst and return). Thanks Justin for your help mate :D It is very much appreciated indeed :D:D All the best to the family.

Now its time for a beer (or the like) and to put my feet up.

easo
8th November 2008, 08:00 PM
Busy day (now time for a beer :D)




Now its time for a beer (or the like) and to put my feet up.

Sounds good to me. :twobeers::beer::twobeers::beer:

Easo

olmate
9th November 2008, 08:14 AM
Easo - so you have found the trend in my posts :D:D:D;)

Are you heading back down this way any time soon?

easo
10th November 2008, 08:35 PM
Most likly driving through around Christmas on the way to Seymour. We will be stopping in Albury to see my Dad too.

olmate
11th November 2008, 06:41 PM
Here we go - The guards have been returned to me ... all repaired. This fella has been outstanding, fixing both guards in 24 hrs (don't know what else he does during the day) :o But I am so pleased with the results as I am only left to finish a bit of panel beating and paint the things..
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/540.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/539.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/542.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/544.jpg
He has done a great job and made my work a hell of a lot easier to get them looking the bit.

easo
11th November 2008, 06:54 PM
G'day Troy, you must be very happy with that effort. They will look the part when their painted and on ol-shorty.

back_in
11th November 2008, 10:45 PM
Hi Troy
Your repairer is someone to know
send me a PM on what it cost, because I think you got value.
now guess what there is only the painting to DOOOOOO.....
cheers
Ian:angel:

master chief
12th November 2008, 04:22 PM
They Have turned out very well Troy,
good stuff,like i said dont let that fella go!.:eek:

Justin.

olmate
12th November 2008, 08:07 PM
Thanks fellas - I am definitely happy with the end result. :D
Now its the panel beating and (yes Ian ) the painting :eek:

olmate
20th November 2008, 08:12 PM
Well all - I don't know if it is the painting to be done :o but I have been seriously lacking motivation this past week (and a bit) :(

However, now after taking 'yet another look' at what is happening around me in the Series 1 part of this forum; I am right to get back into it. Thanks Ian, Wayne and Wal ;)

I have a full weekend of nothing but me and the old Landy in the garage. No visitors. No plans that take me away from the house. No nothing but the important stuff for Shorty :) Shall be back into it :D:D:D

101RRS
20th November 2008, 08:50 PM
I have in priority order

1. FC 101 to get roadworthy
2. E-Type Jag - complete restoration
3. 88 Station wagon - complete restoration
4. 88 - complete restoration.

I know what you mean about the occasional lack of motivation - it has hard to get out of bed and face the garage sometimes:o.

I agree - seeing what everyone else is doing is motivation to get on with it.

Keep the good work going.

Garry

olmate
22nd November 2008, 06:37 PM
Well I spent the day "trying" to panel beat the front guards :) They aren't straight but they are better than they were :D I did give the hammer and rubber block trick a try then got into the heating / cooling thing :o as well.

Have sprayed some ech primer onto them and now shall try the spray bog trick ;) Hopefully they will come up a bit better yet. regardless they will all be green soon.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/182.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/183.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/184.jpg
I reckon that the spray bog thing will work fine and I shall be paying some attention to the larger couple of repairs yet to be done (I know Ian - I shall remember what you said mate;) ) The next photo of these guards should look a lot better.

back_in
23rd November 2008, 08:24 PM
Hi Troy
looking far better than when you picked them up
you be surprised with a little bog, you will fill all the dents
keep up the good work
I am working on the 109 tub, it will be the 8th wonder of the world, if only I could get all the dents and cracked and broken ally fixed.
It was a mess, had to strip it completely.
Monday I find out if I can get the 3 support ribs under the floor folded up and the floor re-rolled.
cheers
Ian:mad:

olmate
23rd November 2008, 09:13 PM
Gday Ian,

Thanks mate. I am learning a heap as I go along but (now) enjoying it again.
I shall give you a call in a few days for a chat.

ellard
24th November 2008, 01:13 AM
Hi there Troy

Its looking good - well done (answered your PM)

I tried to talk to Ian a couple of night ago but he was a little under the weather - well he sounded well Hydrated......hahahaha

All the best

Wayne

back_in
24th November 2008, 02:07 PM
Troy
The truth is Wayne must have been underground, and there would have been a echo, or time delay.
Or I may have been a little tried from working on my Landies.
can not think of any thing else.
cheers
Ian:p:p:p

olmate
24th November 2008, 06:02 PM
Ian - I wouldn't have though anything different ;) (spray putty is my friend).

Wayne - I have replied to your pm. Are you coming thru this way in your end-of-year travels??:D

olmate
26th November 2008, 04:41 PM
Am just loving the 'spray putty' - seems that even I can get the guards to look straight (er).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/78.jpg
Hopefully by the next go they will be almost right :D

Righto - back into it...

back_in
27th November 2008, 05:13 PM
Hi Troy
Looking good
use spay putty over all the guards it will cover other dings.
when you are getting near the end remember to dust it with a black coat to show high and low spots
another little tip
blunt a 3/16 th drill bit and slowly drill out the bog in your spot welds before you put your final prime coat
cheers
Ian

olmate
27th November 2008, 08:28 PM
Thanks Ian.

I have given them both another decent coat on the patches and shall get the ech-primer back on them over the weekend to ensure all the alloy that is now showing is covered. Then I will apply the spray bog to the whole lot.

I suppose you will expect that these things shine when I am finished ;):D

D-Fender
27th November 2008, 08:38 PM
This is looking great mate, nice work, keep it up :D

master chief
28th November 2008, 12:24 PM
Thanks Ian.

I have given them both another decent coat on the patches and shall get the ech-primer back on them over the weekend to ensure all the alloy that is now showing is covered. Then I will apply the spray bog to the whole lot.

I suppose you will expect that these things shine when I am finished ;):D

Yes Troy,
Shine like a beacon to the lost(landcruiser drivers that is).

Keep up the good work.

Justin.

olmate
30th November 2008, 02:01 PM
Guards are now drying (again) :) . I have put enough putty around the things for them to look like they belong on the car, so I sprayed them with ech primer this arvo.
During the week I will spray putty the whole guards and sand them back nice in prep for the green stuff to go on :o - Thats as long as I dont knock them around in the meantime :mad:

olmate
7th December 2008, 03:11 PM
So much for doing anything on Shorty this last week :( I have been too busy at work to get anything done and to top it off - we went to Melbourne Friday (really - that was for a 40th B/Day so all was good :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:)

All I have managed to get done (as I now feel sober enough to go into the shed ) was sand back some putty along the tub and apply a bit more :o. That's gonna have to do it for a while; well at least until I find some time during the week ;)

back_in
8th December 2008, 11:15 PM
hi Troy
Good to see you are doing your best for V.B.
Glad to see some one else apart from Mildura Dennis drinks beer in Vic
I am about ready to sit cross legged and use a sharp long knife.
I have spent several days trying to get the 109 tub straight
must be doing it wrong, need a expert to show me the error of my ways
cheers
Ian

olmate
14th December 2008, 02:44 PM
Ian,

I wish that I had some smart-ar*ed comment to make here but I know how frustrating it can be to get these things straight :)
Well - should I say ... straighter than they were ... as mine aint there yet :)

chazza
14th December 2008, 04:04 PM
hi Troy
I have spent several days trying to get the 109 tub straight
must be doing it wrong, need a expert to show me the error of my ways
cheers
Ian

G'day Ian,
From the limited amount of panel beating that I have done with my limited knowledge, I have learnt that trying to straighten flat panels is easily the hardest surface to get straight.

Don't be scared to use filler where you need to, or even making new skins/panels if you want it to look perfect,

Cheers Charlie

olmate
21st December 2008, 06:26 PM
Things have well and truely dropped off now we are buying a house (I mean - a shed with a house somewhere on the block :D ). Painting Shorty will have to wait for a while now and probably a free weekend in the new year. I shall be continuing with the sanding / bogging and general prep work as I get the chance ;)
Aparently I have to catch up with family over the Xmas period (have been told that this is the "done thing") :( - So I have already lost more days than I can afford.
Reckon that things will wind up again come early Feb 2009 :D:D:D:D

back_in
21st December 2008, 08:09 PM
Hi Charlie
any panel is a problem
I have tried the heat and shrink
with very limited success
will post a picture or 2 soon
all the best for Xmas and New year to all

Troy
you was going to send a link on the Land Rover shed and attached dwelling
if you can please send

cheers all
Ian

olmate
22nd December 2008, 08:01 AM
pm sent Ian :D

olmate
3rd January 2009, 06:20 PM
Got the message today Wayne (ref the water pump). Thanks maaate ;) very happy now as I shall be back into getting her together once it has arrived .... and our move is done :o

Rock on the big shed :D:D:D

easo
3rd January 2009, 08:52 PM
Rock on the big shed :D:D:D

Troy, With all that extra room in your new, beaut shed you'll have more room for more rovers and most importantly a bigger, better, fancy, cooler, shiny, all singing, all dancing, mass producing home brew kit!!!! :D:D:D

Witch you'll now doubt need for all the Nth Est Vic AULRO compulsory functions.

Oh and remember "free beer + BBQ = free labour". :twisted::twisted:

Cheers Easo

olmate
3rd January 2009, 09:00 PM
Troy, With all that extra room in your new, beaut shed you'll have more room for more rovers and most importantly a bigger, better, fancy, cooler, shiny, all singing, all dancing, mass producing home brew kit!!!! :D:D:D

You know mate ... I have spent some time this arvo thinking how I will set up the shed; with the drinking area and all ;) Great minds think alike :D:D:D

olmate
6th January 2009, 08:03 AM
I have done nothing at all to Shorty for a while now :( But I can post some photos of what the motor is looking like :)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/01/1363.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/01/1364.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/01/1365.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/01/1366.jpg
Yep - getting covered in dust as everything for the move happens around her .... Hopefully there will be some more "work" shots soon.

back_in
6th January 2009, 09:24 AM
Hi Troy
Looks good
like the paint job:D:D:D
I am still playing with the tub
you know the rhyme 3 men in a tub
there is only one in this one!
all the best for the new year
cheers
Ian

olmate
13th January 2009, 07:02 PM
Well she has been moved (in fact the whole shed is now at the new place :D ). Will post some photos in the next couple of days.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/01/911.jpg

back_in
13th January 2009, 11:16 PM
Hi Troy
like the trailer
you are slipping
thought the car would have been finished
you have had the holiday break to do it
just because you have changed houses
I thought you would have found time to come over and give the old fellow a hand as well.
one thing I have learnt 41.3 C today was nearly toooo hot and far tooooo hard to do too much rubbing down
the tub is nearly finished
the first rivet counter that has the gall to tell me there is a buckle in the bloooooody thing I kill, hang and 1/4 the B.......
cheers mate
Ian

olmate
15th January 2009, 05:29 PM
You are right Ian - I am slipping... I haven't even got the shed sorted out yet :o Its getting there tho ;)

And I was expecting that you would offer some help this end .....:D
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/01/828.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/01/829.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/01/830.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/01/831.jpg

Walster
15th January 2009, 05:45 PM
Great looking shed there troy, heaps of room for even more Landy stuff:):)

Regards

Wal

Sleepy
15th January 2009, 06:03 PM
That's a bloody nice shed Troy. <<insert big geen envious smilie here>>:angel:

LR V8
15th January 2009, 06:14 PM
looks like you could fit in another 3.... maybe 4 Landy's in there Troy :D

Pete

olmate
15th January 2009, 06:29 PM
Thaks Pete, I have spread myself out a bit but shall be very keen to get a 1949 80' in there as well (just got to find one - and sneak it past the Missus) :o

back_in
15th January 2009, 07:13 PM
Hi Mate
looks toooooo tidy, have you had the troops helping
I love to come over but, more important thing to do
GOING FISHING over Ceduna for a 2 week spell
on Sunday next
Have sent a Pm
cheers
Ian

olmate
15th January 2009, 07:27 PM
Ian - It would look a whole lot better with that 109 in it ;)

Shonky
15th January 2009, 09:31 PM
Mate NICE shed, and if I may go off Shorty's topic, Ol' Mate looks nice in there too. :)

I only realised it today, but Ol' Mate is pretty much what I want to work towards with Gus. ;)

Congrats!

olmate
16th January 2009, 03:08 PM
I got a visit from Wal today (on his way to Sydney). Great to meet him and have a chat :D:D:D Pity that we were both restricted for time as it would have been better with a beer or three ;)

Next time mate - beers are on .... :twobeers:

Safe drive north - I shall put the photos into your restoration thread :thumbsup:

ellard
17th January 2009, 01:50 PM
Hi there Troy

Have you recieved a present in the mail - and should be dropping in for a drink around the end on March......with the car trailer.

I do like the shed - rule of thumb the shed HAS to be bigger than the house.

All the best

Wayne

olmate
17th January 2009, 07:59 PM
Gday Wayne (I like the avatar mate) :thumbsup:

I haven't received anything yet mate but I cant wait as I will then get back into things (once I am released from painting walls inside the house :( ). I shall send you a pm with my new address details.

Beers in March will be good. I shall keep a cold one in the fridge for you ... I mean that I will ensure that the home brew keg is full. Might even get the NEVLRO fellas over for an intro / bbq etc. Its a way off yet so we shall see what we can organise. Is that bloke "Ian" going to come for the trip too ??Stay well.

olmate
29th January 2009, 05:37 PM
Thanks Wayne - the present has arrived and I can now get back into work on Shorty :D:D:D:D:D
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/01/100.jpg

Just some cleaning up to do and she'll be a going concern (well - almost) ;)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/01/101.jpg

olmate
31st January 2009, 12:47 PM
It may be 44+ degrees today, but after all the recent talk about Series 1's etc - I'm back into it. Shall be ducking down the road to get some gasket paper to make the gasket for the water pump and then to source an O Ring good enough for the seal on the top of it. ;)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/01/33.jpg
Have sorted out (I should say ... found...) all the bits and pieces that I had taken off it :D:D. A good thing as I have been a bit concerned since the move :o
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/01/34.jpg
And I reckon that I may even buy myself some paint this week and try my hand at a bit of painting (for something different) :(
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/01/35.jpg
I do have one last welding job for the bulkhead. Immediately in front of the steering wheel the seems have come apart but the job is set for some cooler weather and that shall be that with the bulkhead:D:D:D:D
Speaking of Steering wheels - I seem to remember a thread about steering wheel covers - must track that down (unless someone can help me out here).....

Sleepy
31st January 2009, 08:32 PM
Good to see, you moving forward again Troy. It will be so much nicer with all that room.

Re: Steering Wheel cover, I've been studying this page:

Leather covering a steering wheel (http://mypress.org/garage/leather_covering_a_steering_whee.htm)

May have a go at making one for Ol'ute.

Cheers

back_in
31st January 2009, 10:09 PM
Hi Troy
If and when the O ring gives way
that BLOKE Ian has a box full off O rings with the copper insert
by the way the photo's look good
pity about the bumper it looks out of place, ( look's as if it's new):D:D:D:D:D:D:D
I know the problem of putting things in a safe place,
then spending a several hours of panic looking for same
happens every day
how is the green machine treating you?
cheers mate
Ian

olmate
1st February 2009, 07:39 AM
G'Day Ian - how'd the fishing trip go ? Bloody hot over that way (hang - on, it was bloody hot everywhere) :o I am well and truly over it.

I have just learnt something (again) - didn't know that the O Rings had a copper insert. Does make sense tho.

Take care. Will give you a buzz one day soon

series1buff
1st February 2009, 11:49 AM
Hi
In many cases,the water pump little copper ring thing is missing ..previous mechanics work.

I've improvised and use a ordinary thickish domestic tap washer with a little permatex No.3 on it ..never had any problems with leaks - so far . It needs to be just thick enough to effect a good seal..but not too thick.
I can hear the purists screaming..better nick off

back_in
1st February 2009, 09:45 PM
Hi All
yes many things have been used
a few work, many do not
it makes me glad all over that L/R invented built in mistakes and mechanical crap
and have carried it on through thick and thin in every vehicle they have ever made
my series 1 disco is a rolling proof of a good vehicle which was made to return to where it came 2 1/2 days after i took delivery of it.
there were several things that L/R repaired in U.K. ( on recall) that never saw the light of day here
there is my moan for the day
it must be tooo b.....dy hot over here
cheers
Ian

olmate
6th February 2009, 09:47 PM
Gaskets etc ordered for the waterpump to go on. Should be here come tuesday, then back into it :D

easo
6th February 2009, 10:20 PM
G'day Troy, so much progress since I last logged on.

Easo

olmate
7th February 2009, 11:32 AM
Gday Easo,

Not a lot of progress on Shorty - too bloody hot :o

Shonky
7th February 2009, 12:42 PM
Pansy.

Go on - out you go! :wasntme:

olmate
7th February 2009, 06:12 PM
You first fella. :p

olmate
8th February 2009, 04:47 PM
OK - So I have done nothing with Shorty this weekend but I have been busy getting my bar sorted out ...... :D:D:D
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/02/1142.jpg

ellard
8th February 2009, 05:06 PM
Well done there Troy

And I must say what a great bar - where the Land Rover stories come alive after a few ales........

All the best

Wayne

olmate
8th February 2009, 05:18 PM
Thanks Wayne,

I must say that I have been pacing myself today as I have been doing more drinking than working in the corner. There is a bit more work left yet which shall be spread amongst a fair bit of drinking I would think.

Do hope the heat and fires have settled down over your way.
Take care.

ellard
8th February 2009, 07:05 PM
Do hope the heat and fires have settled down over your way.

Hi there Troy

Its all quiet so far in SA - received the call late last night, and most likely will be spending some time in Victoria assisting.

Majority of our air support has already left SA, but our weather is turning again by the end of the week...................ugly indeed.

Wayne

olmate
8th February 2009, 07:28 PM
Just finished talking to our CFA member in our street. It seems as if everyone is sretched very thin at the moment.

back_in
8th February 2009, 10:08 PM
Hi Troy
good to see the most important item is operating
gee! how long have you been in the green machine
did know there was so many units left
or did the mess give you the plaques for safe keeping
I have a couple you do not have, if you want
cheers
ian

olmate
9th February 2009, 07:33 PM
Hi Troy
good to see the most important item is operating
gee! how long have you been in the green machine
did know there was so many units left
or did the mess give you the plaques for safe keeping

Gday Ian - some days I reckon that I have nearly spent enough time in the green machine but then ... I do love it. Its easier to get a collection of plaques up if you grab a few on your way out of a mess dinner ;)

Well the gaskets and the O Ring has arrived. What sealant would you recommend?

back_in
10th February 2009, 01:23 PM
Hi Troy
anywhere wet (coolant etc) use loctite No3, it is non hardening
allows you to separate if needed
put never seize on nuts and bolts, or use No3 helps to stop corrosion
stops water getting in
makes things easier to pull apart later.
use around inlet manifold, water pump, thermo housing etc etc
both sides of gasket

Use a good auto silicon on sumps, trans etc both sides of the gasket
also some on the threads of the bolts

Smear some silicon on the rubber ring as well

You may get other ideas, from other experts, but if you use a good covering of both you will get no leaks

Also make sure both surfaces are clean enough to eat off
buff with a wire brush or wheel

the only leaks i have are seals ones

cheers
Ian

olmate
10th February 2009, 05:09 PM
Thanks Ian. I shall put the thing on tonight.

Then there is no excuse not to be painting :o


8.45 pm - got distracted looking at the dents in my guards from the move.. so the water pump is on and I have sprayed some more putty on the guards - will have to work on the thermostat housing later during the week.

olmate
14th February 2009, 02:15 PM
Front of the motor is all together now and I am back into preparing the tub for some undercoat. :o
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/02/696.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/02/697.jpg
I have been saying it for a couple of weeks now but "I will" buy the paint this coming week and start turning the thing green.......... Bronze Green :D:D:D

ellard
14th February 2009, 05:55 PM
Hi there Troy

Its starting to look the part - well done

Wayne

numpty
15th February 2009, 11:52 AM
Looking good Troy. Keep up the good work..........and the pictures.;)

olmate
15th February 2009, 08:31 PM
Thanks all, we shall have to see if progress continues once I start throwing the green paint around :o

olmate
17th February 2009, 04:29 PM
The time has come for me to ask another question (surprise , surprise :) )

Does anyone know where I can get a couple of seats from. I have nothing to work with (including brackets) and am not too keen to buy new stuff from England.

numpty
18th February 2009, 08:14 AM
Which bits of the seats Troy?

I made new timber bases for ours (easy) and had them recovered. If it's the backs you're after, I cant help as ours had them albeit in a sad state. But they only needed recovering.

olmate
18th February 2009, 07:36 PM
I need the whole lot - there are no bases, backs or brackets.:(

back_in
18th February 2009, 08:56 PM
Hi Troy
if you want send me a PM
can help
cheers
Ian

olmate
19th February 2009, 08:14 PM
pm sent Ian - will probably give you a call next few days.
Thanks mate. :)

olmate
20th February 2009, 05:37 PM
Ian - this is what I have to work with:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/02/442.jpg
I am down one bracket and need backs, bases - the works. Thanks mate.

easo
21st February 2009, 03:37 PM
Gday Easo,

Not a lot of progress on Shorty - too bloody hot :o


You wouldn't be complaning if it was Darwin heat. :)

olmate
22nd February 2009, 08:13 PM
You are right there Easo :thumbsup: - Stay well mate.

olmate
24th February 2009, 07:01 PM
Well I can now say that I have actually started the painting :D Am I happy - no; but you get that. The paint is going on and (even tho I started in the tub so I could learn what I am doing) I have found that the prep is the most important bit :). I should be happy with the rest of the vehicle but I had left the tub as it was, only priming it so things would stick. The tub will end up with some rubber covering it so I shall keep it as my learning part.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/02/186.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/02/187.jpg
It is also the first coat only at this stage so tomorrow should show a different result.
She will be green at the least ;)

Lost Landy
24th February 2009, 08:34 PM
Looking good, glad you went with Bronze Green:arms:

olmate
3rd March 2009, 06:01 PM
What can I say - sanding & painting, sanding & painting :o

It has got to be time for some colour :D