Replacing Rear Diff with a Salisbury

[Jock The Rock]

Gday

been working on a series IIA lately. its dads. took it for a drive the other day and found the back axle is buggered. so.. dad had a salisbury diff lying around, which was out of the back of a series III 109'.

decided to wack it in ... was a spur of the moment thing and didnt think to measure the gap beteen the spring hangers on the chassis and the springs on the axle there is about 150mm difference (the springs on the salisbury being slightly wider) :bangin: :wallbash:. only figured this out after we had dropped the old axle and springs out and attached the new springs to the salisbury and manhandled it under the car :Thump:

so we are thinkin can we weld another flat section onto the axle and just move the springs over a bit? or can you offer me a better idea?

how much will it cost to get the original rear axle fixed (suspect broken axle)? would this be a better option?

also another thing will the diff ratios for the salisbury be the same as the original axle we took out?

otherwise we have a wrecked series III that the salisbury came out of. we could pinch the front axle out of it and put that in the front to cure the ratio problem?

is there anything else i need to know about doing this job?

Thanks for your help

[Rangier Rover]

If you don't mind having a grader blade under you the sals is a good idea. Unless the Sals came out of a stage 1 should be 4.7:1 same as ser 11a .Just cut old mounts off and graft them on in correct position. Do a small amounts of weilds then let cool so housing doesn't distort:eek:. You will also find the tail shaft will need to be shortened. Keep the unis on the same plain of they complain. To rebalance the rear shaft try useing large hose clamps to get it close then tac a small plate of similar weight. Brakes are the other consideration. Suggest to use 109 brakes on front as well. The 6cyl ones are wider. This gives you the option to fit a bigger engine:D Once done it will never break:)Tony

[Aaron IIA]

You should be able to get a good new long axle for under $100. I bought five new (ex-army) short axles at Cooma for $8 each.

Aaron.

[Jock The Rock]

If you don't mind having a grader blade under you the sals is a good idea. Unless the Sals came out of a stage 1 should be 4.7:1 same as ser 11a .Just cut old mounts off and graft them on in correct position. Do a small amounts of weilds then let cool so housing doesn't distort:eek:. You will also find the tail shaft will need to be shortened. Keep the unis on the same plain of they complain. To rebalance the rear shaft try useing large hose clamps to get it close then tac a small plate of similar weight. Brakes are the other consideration. Suggest to use 109 brakes on front as well. The 6cyl ones are wider. This gives you the option to fit a bigger engine:D Once done it will never break:)Tony

thanks sounds like ill be goin the sals then. if i dont have to stuff round with diff ratios ;) just have to get some brakes for it and ill be away and move the mounts and balance the rear shaft and replace the shockies and and and and never stops does it :(

wont be spending any money til the defender gets done anyway. ill try scrounge stuff off the series III instead. think i can get the brakes out of it and maybe some shockies

Thanks

[Rangier Rover]

thanks sounds like ill be goin the sals then. if i dont have to stuff round with diff ratios ;) just have to get some brakes for it and ill be away and move the mounts and balance the rear shaft and replace the shockies and and and and never stops does it :(

wont be spending any money til the defender gets done anyway. ill try scrounge stuff off the series III instead. think i can get the brakes out of it and maybe some shockies

Thanks Use the 11A rear plates and shocks. If you have a s111 front bung the lot in. Remember there was some diferences with tie rods in series. Use S111 front and rear shackles, front plates and shocks they longer.:)Tony

[JDNSW]

From what you are saying it appears that your 2a is an 88.

While some have fitted a salisbury axle to an 88 the extended fronnt nose compared to the Rover axle means that there is not really enough room for a satisfactory propeller shaft. You will need to shorten the prop shaft and it will then be so short that the universal angles will be excessive, resulting in a very short life for them.

John

[Rangier Rover]

Re tail shaft. Yes they have a bad reputation. Don't try to fit long travel shocks. I had an 88 here with sals and was no worse on uni joints than S1 80" I have now with holden conversion. (Gear box was moved back.) Set the angle of Diff correct and it will be fine:) If there is binding of uni just grind a bit out of yoke. I'd be more concerned about the spline coming out on down travel as angle increases. I will try to dig up pics of 88 that I had sals in. Had no dramas with it at all. Was set up as my previous post. Use the 88 rear shocks and keep the straps on.
I have only had dramas with standard propshaft in springover coversions on 88" Land Rover. Although have sorted it on my 318 powered S1 mud racer. No longer has landy underpinnings:angel: Tony

[Andy-M]

G'Day Jock

I have Rover rear axles if you decide not to put the Salisbury under it. The diff on my donor vehicle is a Rover, the one under Mongrel is a Salsibury :cool: so the spares are not needed. I do hope to get an 88' one day but can't justify hording heaps of parts until then ;).


Cheers Andy

[Aaron IIA]

Remember there was some diferences with tie rods in series.

From what I under stand, you can put SIII tie rod ends in SII/SIIA tie rods, but not the other way around. The later tie rod ends have the thread cut all the way to the ball joint, where as on the earlier units, the thread only came down about 75%. Most new joints that are available for sale have the thread going all the way, for maximum compatibility.

Aaron.

[Jock The Rock]

G'Day Jock

I have Rover rear axles if you decide not to put the Salisbury under it. The diff on my donor vehicle is a Rover, the one under Mongrel is a Salsibury :cool: so the spares are not needed. I do hope to get an 88' one day but can't justify hording heaps of parts until then ;).


Cheers Andy

thanks mate. how much do you want for them? to save stuffing round i may consider it


Re tail shaft. Yes they have a bad reputation. Don't try to fit long travel shocks. I had an 88 here with sals and was no worse on uni joints than S1 80" I have now with holden conversion. (Gear box was moved back.) Set the angle of Diff correct and it will be fine:) If there is binding of uni just grind a bit out of yoke. I'd be more concerned about the spline coming out on down travel as angle increases. I will try to dig up pics of 88 that I had sals in. Had no dramas with it at all. Was set up as my previous post. Use the 88 rear shocks and keep the straps on.
I have only had dramas with standard propshaft in springover coversions on 88" Land Rover. Although have sorted it on my 318 powered S1 mud racer. No longer has landy underpinnings:angel: Tony

by straps do u mean the webbing that stops the axle from dropping a certain amount? from wot i can remember these have rotted off. pics would be awesome :BigThumb: as ill have a better idea of what i need to do.

ill try and post up some pictures when i get a chance (my phone is buggered at the moment so i cant take any)


Use the 11A rear plates and shocks. If you have a s111 front bung the lot in. Remember there was some diferences with tie rods in series. Use S111 front and rear shackles, front plates and shocks they longer.:)Tony

so its possible to just stick the front end of a series III in?

sorry i know a bit about this kind of stuff but not heaps. are the shackles on the end of the leaf springs? what are front/rear plates?

Thanks for your help its bloody good

[Andy-M]

G'Day Jock

If you want I have the whole diff, drum to drum you can have for $50. If anyone thinks the price is not fair let me know, I don't have a clue about 2nd hand Landy parts. I'm not trying to make money, just recover some costs.



Cheers Andy :)

(I'm in Devonport so not too far away from you, good to see a few other series owners close by :twobeers:)

[Rangier Rover]

G'Day Jock

If you want I have the whole diff, drum to drum you can have for $50. If anyone thinks the price is not fair let me know, I don't have a clue about 2nd hand Landy parts. I'm not trying to make money, just recover some costs.



Cheers Andy :)

(I'm in Devonport so not too far away from you, good to see a few other series owners close by :twobeers:)
Sounds fair to me:D If yanked out and ready to go. These days time is money. I know how you feel about recovering cost:eek: Tony

[Jock The Rock]

G'Day Jock

If you want I have the whole diff, drum to drum you can have for $50. If anyone thinks the price is not fair let me know, I don't have a clue about 2nd hand Landy parts. I'm not trying to make money, just recover some costs.



Cheers Andy :)

(I'm in Devonport so not too far away from you, good to see a few other series owners close by :twobeers:)


sounds pretty good to me mate. hope u dont mind but do u mind if i leave it for a while until i find out how much im up for with the defender? perhaps fortnight to a month?

Thanks

[JDNSW]

...........

so its possible to just stick the front end of a series III in?

sorry i know a bit about this kind of stuff but not heaps. are the shackles on the end of the leaf springs? what are front/rear plates?

....

The whole front axle assembly is interchangeable from Series 2/2a/3. Only things to watch is that the brakes are different 88/109/six,V8, but the entire brake assemblies can be swapped.

Also note that the wheel studs changed about the end of Series 2a, so if you want to keep the same wheel spanner front and rear you may want to swap hubs (either way). The tie rod ends come in two types, with thread all the way (late S3) or with threads only part way (S1 - earoly S3), and it is dangerous to have the wrong type screwed into a track rod or drag link. Drive members and stub axles are 10 spline except for S3 109 and late S3 88 which are 24, but again, are interchangeable. The drag link with provision for a steering damper came in fairly late S2a production but is interchangeable with the earlier one, depending on whether you need a steering damper.

The spring shackles are the link between the rear end of the spring and the chassis. These are the same on S2a and S3 (and interchangeable between S2 and S2a - change from BSF to UNF) but military ones are longer (and have a bolt and tube in the middle between the two plates) and should only be used with extended front spring hangers fitted to the military chassis.

Hope this helps,

John

[Rangier Rover]

Shakles on most 109s civy are 1/2" longer than 88 civy. 109 = 4" 88 = 3&1 1/2. Front lower plates to suit.

[Andy-M]

Hi Jock

Mate I haven't advertised the diff anywhere and I am not planning to, it will be here until someone who can use it needs it (this forum has been lots of help to me so if I can help others in some way I will), there is a good chance it will be here in 12 months if you don't need it.

I am going to cut up the chassis soon (rusty spring hanger and other bits), if you or Phoenix need any cross members let me know, I am not trying to sell them they are give away items if they can be of use. (Mongrels chassis is galvo :cool:)


Cheers Andy