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View Full Version : 202/3.3L conversion with varijet carby



Romulus
11th August 2008, 07:24 AM
I am currently working on replacing my L/R 2.6L 6cyl with a Commodore 202/3.3L 6cyl engine, hope to be able to make the swap in a few weeks time.
The 202 came with a Varijet carby, which has lots of hose connections, I assume for emission control etc, as well, the inlet manifold too seems to have a lot of vacuum hose connections as well as some to the cylinder head, which looks like water connections.
I also assume that most of these hose connections are really not required in my SIII.
My question is, which connections on the carby are a must have connected to the inlet manifold etc. and which connections can I just block off.
Would appreciate any help on this, thanks.

Rangier Rover
12th August 2008, 10:32 PM
I'm not a fan of GMH in Landys:( Although the 2.6 Six were no good.:( Since no one has spoken.... what year model is your S111? The commy six aren't a good one to use as you have found out. Start pulling that polution crap off and it will need a retune. The 202 also hate being reved hard on stock gearing. Depends on year model the 186 is the most durable. We have converted a few here and the 202s all burnt holes in pistons or spat small ends:eek: They are useless off road.Tony

rangieman
12th August 2008, 10:34 PM
I'm not a fan of GMH in Landys:( Although the 2.6 Six were no good.:( Since no one has spoken.... what year model is your S111? The commy six aren't a good one to use as you have found out. Start pulling that polution crap off and it will need a retune. The 202 also hate being reved hard on stock gearing. Depends on year model the 186 is the most durable. We have converted a few here and the 202s all burnt holes in pistons or spat small ends:eek: Tony
^^^^^^^^^^^^^X2^^^^^^^^^^;)
Put a ford 6 in it if any thing or a hemi 6:cool:

p38arover
12th August 2008, 11:42 PM
Jeez, I hope the 202 in my IIA is OK. I haven't got it going yet. I was thinking of fitting Rangie 3.54 diffs front and back

Rangier Rover
13th August 2008, 12:23 AM
^^^^^^^^^^^^^X2^^^^^^^^^^;)
Put a ford 6 in it if any thing or a hemi 6:cool: Hemi 245:cool: They will rev like :eek: I did not suggest this as I asume this guy is stuck with GMH:(

Rangier Rover
13th August 2008, 12:38 AM
Jeez, I hope the 202 in my IIA is OK. I haven't got it going yet. I was thinking of fitting Rangie 3.54 diffs front and back
High ratio HR gear in transfer is best:) The last 3.54 I put in a 4.7.... Well lets say the housing lost some weight:angel: You will find out why:D. Other drama was Low range was taller and Series boxes don't enjoy a lot of 1st gear work:o. As is on end of shaft and kills small bearing. Set gearing up so 2nd does hard work and they dont fail as shares load on shaft. Holden have a bad torque curve for this. Mainly 202:(. Thay are flat then snarly in mid range. 202 don't cope with being run at 4000 RPM under light load.161,173,179,186 are only ones that last out of Reds. Do not spin the tyres:eek:. Just my experiences:angel: This is why I dont like GMH in Series. Remember.... Go easy on 1st then 2nd give it hell. Tony

Romulus
13th August 2008, 05:49 AM
My '76 LWB SIII is not going to be used for 'heavy' off road, it has been converted to a camper van, so will do a lot of highway miles, it does have a Fairey Overdrive fitted, also, the gearbox was totally rebuilt some months back now.
It will hit tracks for sure but nothing anything close to crawling speed and/or winching....been there done that :)

It is my weekender for when I go fly fishing and sleeping under the stars :)

So the question really still remains, which hose connections are a must have to the Varijet carby, thanks people.

dandlandyman
13th August 2008, 12:48 PM
One quick headsup: if your 3.3 was mated to an auto originally, the vacuum advance port in the carb is designed the wrong way round, full advance at idle. I had that problem on the earlier Holden carby on my S3.

Dan.
69 2a 88" pet4, 74 3 109" pet4, 68 2b FC pet6.

Bigbjorn
13th August 2008, 01:06 PM
I'm not a fan of GMH in Landys:( Although the 2.6 Six were no good.:( Since no one has spoken.... what year model is your S111? The commy six aren't a good one to use as you have found out. Start pulling that polution crap off and it will need a retune. The 202 also hate being reved hard on stock gearing. Depends on year model the 186 is the most durable. We have converted a few here and the 202s all burnt holes in pistons or spat small ends:eek: They are useless off road.Tony

They do this because you have taken a low speed high torque passenger car engine and put it into a car with low gearing that requires it to rev for prolonged periods at speeds the manufacturer never intended. Properly modified to its new application you will have no problems. Remember the Torana GTR's with XU1 option pack? They won Bathurst revving between 5000 and 7000 for 500 miles without problems. You just have to suit the engine to the application. I operated the standard engines in much abused fleet cars for in excess of 300,000 k's without dismantling. The Chrysler Hemi 6 is a better conversion but will chew up and spit out any Series transmission in short order if hard used. The Falcon is the heaviest and bulkiest of the three and would be a last resort in my opinion.

Romulus
13th August 2008, 03:16 PM
One quick headsup: if your 3.3 was mated to an auto originally, the vacuum advance port in the carb is designed the wrong way round, full advance at idle. I had that problem on the earlier Holden carby on my S3.

Dan.
69 2a 88" pet4, 74 3 109" pet4, 68 2b FC pet6.

thanks for that Dan, very good headsup!
It was mated to an auto, do you have a solution?...if I need to get hold of another/manual gearbox carby I do so, they are easily and cheap to come by these days

Bigbjorn
13th August 2008, 04:41 PM
Which engine do you have. The blue 12 port engine or the earlier one with 7 ports? If the first then you already have most of the good stuff, the Starfire rods and the fully counterbalanced crank. As far as the Varijet goes, the best modification for one of these is tp pitch it straight into the rubbish bin. A good replacement is a Rochester 2G, with 1 1/2" bores used in conjunction with a proper set of extractors. Find them on the internet. If you are using a red 7 port engine, then the same Rochester carb. is a good choice, or twin 1 3/4" SU's used in conjunction with 186S split cast iron headers. There are a number of internal mods to be done whilst you are rebuilding the engine to make it suitable for prolonged higher rpm work and a search on this site for my writings will give them to you.

Romulus
13th August 2008, 04:54 PM
Which engine do you have. The blue 12 port engine or the earlier one with 7 ports? If the first then you already have most of the good stuff, the Starfire rods and the fully counterbalanced crank. As far as the Varijet goes, the best modification for one of these is tp pitch it straight into the rubbish bin. A good replacement is a Rochester 2G, with 1 1/2" bores used in conjunction with a proper set of extractors. Find them on the internet. If you are using a red 7 port engine, then the same Rochester carb. is a good choice, or twin 1 3/4" SU's used in conjunction with 186S split cast iron headers. There are a number of internal mods to be done whilst you are rebuilding the engine to make it suitable for prolonged higher rpm work and a search on this site for my writings will give them to you.

The blue one. It was rebuilt about 15000km ago by previous owner. I am not planning on pulling it apart.
This SIII does mainly highway miles, very little heady duty off road so 'low' gear will be rarely used, plus the Fairey OD will also make a big diff. In any case, I'll be happy just sitting on 100 give or take and cruising along.
I do have a set of extractors, at the moment it has the OEM exhaust manifold fitted, so that is easily swapped. I was scratching my head has to how to adapt the 'twin' holes at the end of the OEM exhaust manifold to my single SIII pipe, the extractors will be much easier to adapt!
OK, I will look for the carby you mentioned, thanks for your advise!

Bigbjorn
13th August 2008, 09:05 PM
The blue one. It was rebuilt about 15000km ago by previous owner. I am not planning on pulling it apart.
This SIII does mainly highway miles, very little heady duty off road so 'low' gear will be rarely used, plus the Fairey OD will also make a big diff. In any case, I'll be happy just sitting on 100 give or take and cruising along.
I do have a set of extractors, at the moment it has the OEM exhaust manifold fitted, so that is easily swapped. I was scratching my head has to how to adapt the 'twin' holes at the end of the OEM exhaust manifold to my single SIII pipe, the extractors will be much easier to adapt!
OK, I will look for the carby you mentioned, thanks for your advise!

If you don't want to dismantle and do it properly, at least fit a high volume oil pump and a decent sized engine oil cooler. You really do need better valve springs and a camshaft with more top end. For an exhaust system without buying extractors, you will need to fabricate a flange to fit your manifold and run a twin system all the way out the back. To wit, a two x three cylinder system, 2 1/4" diameter is good. Your SIII exhaust system is nowhere near good enough for this engine. Forged pistons would be good also, as would be a good cylinder head cleanout and port match. To do it properly you should have the crank cross drilled, & flute relieved, the rods drilled both sides to squirt more oil up the piston for cooling and to lubricate the little ends which should be made full floating. The rods need to be modified for thin wall little end bushes and drilled and countersunk to oil them. You then have a Bathurst quality engine internally.