D1 CDL Actuator into D2: Experiences please.

[29dinosaur]

G'day

Has anyone on list a real life experience of installing the mechanical D1 cdl actuator into a D2? My 2000 D2 has the threaded lever in place and just needs to have something to make it work... 2004 D2 actuators are possibly a bit hard to find... and I've read that a D1 actuator will fit into a D2. What are the pros and cons? My understanding is that the D2 work by cable and D1 by mechanical linkages and that the D2 is meant to cut down on cabin noise and vibrations etc. Will a D1 actuator be difficult to install and will it be noisey and suffer from vibration issues? There's a nice description by redback of putting late D2 into early D2 but I can't seem to find a description for D1 into D2. Anyone seen and used installation instructions for D1? ie into a V8 auto D2. I'm also guessing that a D1 actuator may be easier to find than a D2???

(I'm tempted just to rig up a cable pulley somehow from underneath the truck.)

Thanks

[streaky]

For the definative answer you'd do well to send a mail to Ashcroft Transmissions in the UK.
They supply purpose built kits etc for this conversion.

S.

[29dinosaur]

For the definative answer you'd do well to send a mail to Ashcroft Transmissions in the UK.
They supply purpose built kits etc for this conversion.

S.

Yes they can (or used to be able to ...) supply an oem D2 actuator with cable. I've looked on another british site who also supply D2 cdl actuator.

How about the lever type that you operate from under the car - where can I get these in Oz?

[sniegy]

Hi 29Dinosaur, (love these names)
I had a friend who had the D1 linkage in his D2 & YES it was noisey.
Because of the mechanical linkage it vibrated its little head off.
In the end he gave up & got a D2 linkage.
I originally made a cable operated system which was good but sometimes jammed on me. I also went for the D2a linkage, cable operated & simple to install & effortless to use.
2 other places to try for a CDL kit & my personal fave is Triumph-Rover spares in Lonsdale S.A. Triumph Rover Spares - The World's Largest Land Rover Dismantler (http://www.triumphroverspares.com.au/) Ian or Phil,Will deliver anywhere in the country.
Also 4x4Discovery.com.au - "think outside ..." (http://4x4intelligence.com.au/) email Simon & he will have one for u also.

Cheers

[mousie]

Once you have a peek at the 5 dollar arm method, which I just finished installing in two hours, this can be a start until you find better.

I flattened out a gal steel tv antenna bracket with one one hole widened to fit securely to the nut (Just used a 10mil spanner as guide for file to work out the oval hole to suit the 10 mil head). Other end nylock bolt onto 3m x 10 flat steel. Made a custom bend from transmission down to above chassis and through a blat car audio bracket expanded hole and rubber lined (not painted) and finished to a bent handle that almost runs flush with the sil when engaged. If you have a few bits and pieces in the shed, this is by far the cheapest method and I would only recommend you spend the many hundreds of dollars if you are actually going to use this function and don't not kid yourself of the need for two times a year as in my case. Plenty of info and pics on the net showing this setup and its not noisy Geoff

[jmkoffice]

The D1 actuator mounts on the TC case, whereby in the D2, it mounts on the floor. The floor mount position and cable connection in the D2 has no vibration. There are also electric alternatives to a lever.

[Urban Panzer]

This has to be THE most talked about D2 mod imo :)

Well, as already stated there is LOADS of options, some cheap some expensive !!

heres just a few !!!

Electrical install with nice a dash switch. (Aus company)Series II Diff Lock (http://www.amv.com.au/SeriesIIDifflock.htm)

Very CHEAP install with a purchased cable kit, used "inside" the car
Enabling the Discovery II Center (http://www.boothroyd.com/cdl.htm)

Very cheap install that you could EASILY make yourself, done from "outside" the car.
The Rover Shoppe: Products (http://www.rovershoppe.com/cdl_handle.html)

Using an "04" linkage on D2.... (how I did it), my webpage write up :D
www.discovery2.co.uk/Factory Diff Lock (http://www.discovery2.co.uk/diff_lock.html)

A download from my web server for a D1 linkage into a D2. Microsoft word doc. (no responsibility on its accuracy)
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/downloads/D1-D2_cdl_install.doc

A few options to keep you busy reading https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/1511.jpg

[29dinosaur]

Using an "04" linkage on D2.... (how I did it), my webpage write up :D
www.discovery2.co.uk/Factory Diff Lock (http://www.discovery2.co.uk/diff_lock.html)


Thanks - hadn't seen this one before. Might go for simplest for time being.

[Zute]

On using the CDL, I found that when I engaged it with motor running, TC and ABS continued to work as normal. If I turned the motor off and left it for some time, when restarting, the ABS and TC lights would light up, showing they would not be working and this was the case.
But I found that if I turn the motor off and restarted it straight away, the lights would not be on and it would all worked.
So there was no need to only engage the CDL with the motor running.
I also found that on sand, in my opinion, that locking the CDL with TC enabled work much better than other options.

[feraldisco]

finally got around to sussing this out on my 99 D2 with a 10 mil spanner. There are three positions going clockwise: unlocked, neutral, locked...or at least I assumed the middle position was neutral but I still had drive - maybe I just needed to jig it around a bit to engage neutral? I know LR transfer cases have never been particularly 'positive' in their engagement based on RRC and D1 experience. Also, I still had my TC lights showing up after engaging CDL before starting up which seems contrary to other feedback that TC only remains on if the CDL is actuated while the car is running??? :confused: