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View Full Version : 1986 RRC project - open to suggestions



Brick
24th August 2008, 05:26 PM
other than burn it/get rid of it.

Just took delivery of my project vehicle, 1986 RRC. Couple of rust spots as you would expect for a vehicle of this age. Has spent the last few years in Qld and I know has been driven over at Fraser Island. Drives reasonably well.

From my understanding (I do not yet have a manual to check) it has a LT77 5 speed box as reverse is left and up. I think it has a 3.5 lt motor from the label on it although there are a couple of Ritter 4.2 stickers on it. Anything to be aware of immediately?

I am open to suggestions on mods as want to turn it into a weekend vehicle to take the family out camping and the like but not get too worried about scratching, etc. Was looking at Scorpion Racing suspension kit, lockers, and the like. It already has two extra fuel tanks under the sills that are filled through the cabin floor.

Have included a couple of photos in case anyone can identify that engine is something different to what I think.

I am all ears.

Cheers,

rovercare
24th August 2008, 05:53 PM
Budget? what sort of driveing?

It'll be a 4.2 ritters stroker, good revy thing, and less underpowered than a 3.5 or 3.9, get it dynoed and check A/F ratios

justinc
24th August 2008, 06:33 PM
Cameron,

You have WAY too many possessions there mate, I'll take the RRC project vehicle AND that TE510:cool: off your hands....


Good looking rangie there, that 4.2 is a great start as you can run some decent tyres and gearing without the asthmatic 3.5 driving it:twisted:

There are some great RRC's here, take a look through the members rides threads for more inspiration!

JC

Brick
24th August 2008, 06:52 PM
Budget? what sort of driveing?

It'll be a 4.2 ritters stroker, good revy thing, and less underpowered than a 3.5 or 3.9, get it dynoed and check A/F ratios

The budget will be what ever I can get away with. The wife was with me when I got a rough estimate for the Scorpion kit from the distributor. Her response was "is that hundreds or thousands", silly question really.

I really want to be able to handle some good offroad tracks that can be both rocky and muddy. For me articulation is more important than lift. However, most important is reliability so nothing silly motor wise. I know so will say that LR and reliability should not be used in the same sentence but at least they have character.

May want to use it from time to time for towing the bikes to various events around the countryside, although plan to use the D3 mainly for that purpose.

Hadn't thought of it being stroked but it definitely has a nice note to it, although I think the exhaust will be up for replacement in the near future.

A/F ratios? Do you mean diff ratios?

JustinC, you can never have too many toys. Just need to set up a roster to ensure they all get used. Unfortunately the TE has been missing out of late.

Thanks for the feedback.

rovercare
24th August 2008, 07:04 PM
The budget will be what ever I can get away with. The wife was with me when I got a rough estimate for the Scorpion kit from the distributor. Her response was "is that hundreds or thousands", silly question really.

A/F ratios? Do you mean diff ratios?

.

A/F...Air/Fuel ratios, to make sure it doesn;t run lean, basically to see if the appropriate mods have been done to the EFI to make sure fuelling is correct, although, I'd say its been in there a while so its either 1. correct or good enough, or 2. never had a hard time:D

Save the money from the scorpion kit and fit lockers, axles and a winch first and foremost, decide on what size tyres and go from there

Brick
29th August 2008, 09:31 PM
Have found that the rear sway pin on one side has broken. When speaking to an aftermarket LR supplier, they suggested just removing the sway bar. I know this can assist with articulation, but is there any potential problems I should be aware of if I go down this path?

Thanks

Rangier Rover
29th August 2008, 09:45 PM
Have found that the rear sway pin on one side has broken. When speaking to an aftermarket LR supplier, they suggested just removing the sway bar. I know this can assist with articulation, but is there any potential problems I should be aware of if I go down this path?

Thanks A bit more body roll. Try it, Take it easy at first. Depends on spring and shock rates. Most run them with out if used off road a bit. You learn how to handle them. If you dont like it then put it back on. I run mine open with no dramas. Does lean a bit if cornerd hard but once down you can keep pushing it round ok.Tony

rovercare
29th August 2008, 09:50 PM
Pull it off;)

walker
29th August 2008, 10:01 PM
Have found that the rear sway pin on one side has broken. When speaking to an aftermarket LR supplier, they suggested just removing the sway bar. I know this can assist with articulation, but is there any potential problems I should be aware of if I go down this path?

Thanks

I am very surprised it has a swaybar, I wonder if it was added when the motor was done. I did not think they came out with swaybars till a bit later.

rovercare
29th August 2008, 10:03 PM
I am very surprised it has a swaybar, I wonder if it was added when the motor was done. I did not think they came out with swaybars till a bit later.

86 will be aftermarket, not factory, put it in za bin:D

Brick
2nd October 2008, 12:46 AM
Well the sway bar has gone, and not surprisingly it did not make much of a difference.

Blew out a power steering line on a recent offroad trip. Bloody heavy on the arms to turn a corner. Thought I would look like Popeye by the time I got home.

I have started thinking about all the changes I would like to make over the next year or so. Was really surprised a couple of times on the aforementioned trip that I had to change to low range as 1st high seems too long in the gearing. Also seemed like CDL was not working properly. Has the second lever for moving between high and low, and for locking the diff. One of the other members thought that perhaps a viscous centre diff may be fitted given the way the wheels were reacting to some slippery climbs. Have not gone underneath to check out what is there at the moment.

I have the opportunity to lay my hands on a 4.6 motor, but was wondering what were the standard manual gear and transfer boxes that were fitted to them? I have an LT77 5sp and was thinking about converting back to a 4 speed as what I have read seems to indicate they are stronger and will not be doing any serious long distance travelling. Any thoughts/opinions? Also, would the 4.6 fit into an RRC relatively easily, or would I need to modify engine mounts, cross members, etc?

I will probably continue to submit questions as I go and build the list of ideas.

Cheers

walker
2nd October 2008, 01:42 AM
4.6 just bolts straight in, no problems. You will be wrapped with the power once you do the change.

You can bolt up any of the rover boxes to any of the engines so that is not a problem. Personally I would look at a ZF 4 speed auto.

mike 90 RR
2nd October 2008, 08:33 AM
Personally I would look at a ZF 4 speed auto.

Another vote for a Auto :D

RaZz0R
2nd October 2008, 09:52 AM
Another vote for a Auto :D

:D its what I got.

Plus - most videos I have seen of 4WD'ing its the manual drivers that have the most problems..... ie auto 4WD'ing.. IMO is easier haha :p

BigJon
2nd October 2008, 10:51 AM
I think you should put in a 4.6... then send your old engine to me. If it really is a stroker then I could put the internals to good use while rebuilding my 3.5 :p.

loanrangie
2nd October 2008, 01:23 PM
Another vote for a Auto :D

If its not a tourer then go for a TF727, cheaper to buy cheaper to repair and bullet proof- if you get a 2nd hand ZF and it goes bang you'll get little change out of 3k.

Brick
19th October 2008, 07:53 PM
After a couple of weeks away on holidays, finally got time to crawl under the RRC to check out what box and TC it has. The numbers confirm a LT77 and a LT230T.

While I was under there I noticed a switch on the left side of TC that had no wires connected. Does anyone know what this switch is for...perhaps to light up the diff lock light on the dash? I noticed no light came on when I thought I had shifted to lock mode on the last trip.

Also I noticed a switch of some description mounted on the chassis very close behind the handbrake drum. Looked as thought the wires had been cut on the side closest to the brake and there was a piece of blue plastic sitting out the other side pointing towards the rear. Again any ideas what this may be??

Thanks

rovercare
19th October 2008, 07:58 PM
After a couple of weeks away on holidays, finally got time to crawl under the RRC to check out what box and TC it has. The numbers confirm a LT77 and a LT230T.

While I was under there I noticed a switch on the left side of TC that had no wires connected. Does anyone know what this switch is for...perhaps to light up the diff lock light on the dash? I noticed no light came on when I thought I had shifted to lock mode on the last trip.

Also I noticed a switch of some description mounted on the chassis very close behind the handbrake drum. Looked as thought the wires had been cut on the side closest to the brake and there was a piece of blue plastic sitting out the other side pointing towards the rear. Again any ideas what this may be??

Thanks

Put some pics up, makes it much easier to identify:)

Brick
19th October 2008, 10:39 PM
As requested.

rovercare
19th October 2008, 10:46 PM
First pic I can;t place what it'd be doing, strange place, its not within the oil:confused:, second would of been for cruise control