Dual battery?

[wells]

hi all , im thinking of fitting an extra battery to my rover , has anyone had any experiance with this that may help ? thanks

[Blknight.aus]

yes but it depends on what kind of rover you have

[p38arover]

duel battery ?

They'll be fighting for the amps!

See Ron's Range Rover Classic Modifications (http://p38arover.com/rover/rovermod.html#dualbattery)

and

relays (http://www.traxide.com.au/DBS.html)

[karlz]

I've fitted a second battery to my P38 about 3 years ago, mainly to run my fridge. I located the battery in the rear boot compartment on the right hand corner. I bought a marine plastic battery case, fixed it to the floor with stainless steel eyelets through the floor and held down with rubber straps.
For charging I ran the battery cable down through the drivers side floor gutter, which is easily fitted, up to the rear. I connected the cable to the battery using an anderson plug. I mounted a fusebox on the lid of the battery fox and off that comes the aux sockets (2).
I bought an Optima yellow top deep cycle battery placed that in the battery box and ensure it was a snug fit by packing all corners on the battery box with foam. It works a treat.

[F4Phantom]

An idea which has worked very well for me is to get a deep cycle battery, dont mount it under the bonnet where its inaccessible but in the back floor somewhere. Then make a 12v lighter plug for it and fit a 12v lighter plug in the rear of the car next to where you use your battery. This gives several advantages including being able to take the battery to your tent for lights, fridge etc, and to charge you plug the batt in the socket. If you run it off the original lighter socket then you also are able to power the cars aux when there is no key in the car, so you cant run the main battery flat. I found this system to be a very good all rounder. I also keep a multimeter in the car at all times so I can keep an eye on all things electrical and the deep cycle battery.

[p38arover]

I have a dual battery system in the P38A. It's fitted in the wheel well where the jack, etc., went originally.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

duel battery
... has anyone had any experiance with this that may help ? thanks

They'll be fighting for the amps!
:Rolling:
Ron

You missed that experience!

But I was thinking of the bunnies!
http://hometown.aol.com/MATS80/cell4.jpg http://www.energizercanada.ca/images/framework/energizer-bunny-page.jpg

Diana :D:D

[ladas]

I couldn't be bothered fannying around under the bonnet, so I got one of those battery boxes from supercheap, it has a ciggy socket built in, and a battery test meter.

However I wouldn't want to charge it via the original aux socket in the back of the disco, so I ran two donking great cables (cable normally used on commercial/industrial arc welders)- via a traxide switch (automatically isolates the cranking battery if it falls below a certain voltage) and a suitably rated fuse - to the rear compartment - and terminated in a anderson plug.

Then at the battery box end, another anderson plug - heavy duty cable again - connected to the battery box.

I use the Disco tie downs in the rear compartment to secure the battery/box - obviously the battery needs to be sealed type.

The box from supercheap was about $50.00 - the heavy duty cable from local engineering/bearing store - $8.00 a metre.

Took me about an hour to run the cables (yes two - you need to run N bat to the battery as well) fit the controller, and make the terminations.

So total cost excluding battery, but including anderson plugs, cable, cable ties, fuse and controller about $220.00

[wells]

Thanks all , ill be doing the same sort of thing i think , i will go with the deep cycle one , thanks again for the help.

[SPROVER]

I couldn't be bothered fannying around under the bonnet, so I got one of those battery boxes from supercheap, it has a ciggy socket built in, and a battery test meter.

However I wouldn't want to charge it via the original aux socket in the back of the disco, so I ran two donking great cables (cable normally used on commercial/industrial arc welders)- via a traxide switch (automatically isolates the cranking battery if it falls below a certain voltage) and a suitably rated fuse - to the rear compartment - and terminated in a anderson plug.

Then at the battery box end, another anderson plug - heavy duty cable again - connected to the battery box.

I use the Disco tie downs in the rear compartment to secure the battery/box - obviously the battery needs to be sealed type.

The box from supercheap was about $50.00 - the heavy duty cable from local engineering/bearing store - $8.00 a metre.

Took me about an hour to run the cables (yes two - you need to run N bat to the battery as well) fit the controller, and make the terminations.

So total cost excluding battery, but including anderson plugs, cable, cable ties, fuse and controller about $220.00



Just out of curiosity do you happen to have any pictures of the install? I would like to do something like this because i dont have any room under the bonnet anymore after the snorkel install.And this sounds like a good way to do it.:)

[p38arover]

Just out of curiosity do you happen to have any pictures of the install? I would like to do something like this because i dont have any room under the bonnet anymore after the snorkel install.And this sounds like a good way to do it.:)

??

My D1 has a snorkel and a second battery. The second battery is in the spot designed to mount the second battery - in front of the air cleaner.

You do need to slightly move/modify the power steering fluid reservoir - and remove your jack, etc.