Engine rebuild 4.6

[4X4V8]

My friends think I am insane contemplating owning not one but two Land Rover products. I am keen to get a P38A.

Am looking at a 4.6 that was overheated. I don't know any more than it's now using heaps of water. I don't want to take it further until I know what I'm in for.

In case it is the worst case scenario, can anyone recommend an engine rebuilder in Sydney to do an engine overhaul using top-hat liners, and an indication of cost of such an overhaul? I'm guessing that it'll be around the $7k mark.

[Taz]

Not in sidinee, however you can get a top hatted block from Ballarat for $2.5k Land Rover parts - ENGINE - 4.6 V8 (http://www.roverparts.com.au/engine___4_6_v8?b=1)

[p38arover]

Davis Performance Landys at Annangrove did mine. Price for the liners, fitted was $2200.

[Scouse]

Balmain Engineering do the stepped liners for around $1000 (trade).



Sorry Ron, I only found that out after you had yours done :(.

[4X4V8]

Thanks guys: I have also been quoted abt $4k for a new bare block, although I thought they were NLA.

It seems almost certain that there is a major problem, given the massive overheating and then the car relegated to a second car and using a lot of water. The carpet is discoloured too, so I am guessing the pressure has casued a leak at the heater core or its connections.

I am trying to figure out how I am going to sell that one to my wife "I'll get you a sensational new car, something we'll both like... but it needs a new engine"

[p38arover]

Thanks guys: I have also been quoted abt $4k for a new bare block, although I thought they were NLA.

It seems almost certain that there is a major problem, given the massive overheating and then the car relegated to a second car and using a lot of water. The carpet is discoloured too, so I am guessing the pressure has casued a leak at the heater core or its connections.

I am trying to figure out how I am going to sell that one to my wife "I'll get you a sensational new car, something we'll both like... but it needs a new engine"

What you need to spend on the rebuild needs to be reflected in the price you are willing to pay for the car.

The staining of the carpet on the driver's side is more than likely due to leaking O-rings not a heater core leak. O-ring leakage is common when the car gets older. The O-rings go very hard.

The heater core is 8mm OD copper tube and seems pretty solid. However, it is possible the heater core endplate has been cracked by overtightening of the heater pipes clamp plate. This was mine:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/1432.jpg

[r.over]

At least with a new block it is likely to be a high comp motor where one out of a local vehicle will be low comp.

[p38arover]

Were the Thor engines LC or HC? GEMS were LC.

I had HC pistons fitted to mine - pistons and rings cost another $800

[4X4V8]

Were the Thor engines LC or HC? GEMS were LC.I was wondering that exact same thing... I want the top-hat liners for durability but am thinking about liquid gas injection in the future - gas only - so am wondering about getting a HC engine - or as you did Ron, HC pistons.

While the P38A idea is setting like glue, this actual car is all a bit hypothetical really, because the seller wants too much atm. I think it would be worth less than $8k, if the liners are slipping. At least he acknowledges there is a problem, but it sounds like there are a few more and I wonder if I have any spare time for tweaking cars... buying this one, if it's cheap enough, still means there will be no savings over buying a good car straight out, but the bonus is delayed costs and eventually (I hope) a car that has had a big, expensive problem sorted.

Thanks for the heads up on the heater O-rings Ron, I have been watching the threads on this and other RR probs with interest. That's the kind of thing I could allow time to fix after the kids have gone to bed (prob take a few evenings to fix, I imagine) but the engine is another matter. I will probably have to handball that to an engine builder.

As a short-term fix, can anyone actually vouch for chemiweld?

[p38arover]

As a short-term fix, can anyone actually vouch for chemiweld?

I tried ChemiWeld and it didn't work. Bars Leaks did on the heater. CarGo Metallic Seal-Up did on the block.

[Hoges]

Hi 4X4V8...which incarnation of the P38 are you seeking...i.e. engine fitted with the GEMS system or the later model Bosch EFI?...
cheers
Hoges

[4X4V8]

which incarnation of the P38 are you seeking...i.e. engine fitted with the GEMS system or the later model Bosch EFI?..

It's a later car with a Bosch system I'm after.

[81stubee]

I just put ChemiWeld in Mine. Its working well on the Radiator (now blocked) but has slowed the liner leak down heaps, I can now go a week without top up, but still get a little pressure in the hoses. I care deeply for my cars and putting that ugly brown sh@# in the car was a painful experience:(.

What I was told, was that:

Slipped Liners are only a real problem when new (although can happen any time) less likely as gets older.

Cracked Blocks: were more of a problem with old motors, where the alloy cracks behind the liner and then seeps up.

How long has it been driven for in that condition? Could need new water pump, radiator. For me to buy a car like that, the rest would have to be absolutely perfect, my gearbox is on the way out but doesn't phase me much as the rest of the car body wise is perfect. Ron and I both have a book by Des Hammil that is a good read on these motors. Where are you located?


Stu