drivesafe
31st August 2008, 09:51 AM
SC80-LR Plug-&-Play + Full Power Cable Kits
The D3 FPC Kit is $399 from Traxide and you can order it over the phone - 07 5569 2557
You can now purchase this product online HERE! (http://www.davesitshop.com/davesitshop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=41)
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The kit contains the following items :-
7m x 6B&S Twin Sheathed Cable
3m x 6mm Auto Twin Sheathed Cable
2 x 50 amp anderson plugs and terminals
2 x Safety Covers for Anderson Plugs
2 x Dust Covers for Anderson Plugs
2 x Flush Mount Power Sockets + 4 Countersunk Self Tapping Screws
2 x In-line Blade Fuse Holders + 2 x 20 amp Blade Fuses
1 x 50 amp Circuit Breaker pre-wired and mounted in a Protective Plastic Box
1 x 2 Way Screw Block Terminal
8 x Yellow Female Spade Crimp Terminals
2 x Heavy Duty Cable Eye Terminal.
3 x Wire Ties
2 x Alcohol Swabs
Assorted Heatshrink.
This kit is designed to provide a high current capacity power cable to the rear of the D3 and to add two new permanently powered sockets to the rear of a D3. The kit is also includes parts for an optional engine bay high current capacity power cable and Anderson plug, all powered from the Auxiliary Battery.
Pre Installation requirements. If you have just turned your Ignition off, make sure the Park Brake is applied and the key is removed from the ignition.
Pull the bonnet release and open the bonnet. Remove both Battery Compartment covers. This is done by first releasing the 2 tabs at the front of both covers and then lift the front edge of the covers and then twisting and remove the covers.
Now, go back to the cab and check that the Park Brake Light is out. This is important, while the Park Brake Light is on, the vehicle’s computers are still going through their Shutdown routines and these Shutdown routines MUST BE COMPLETED before you work on any electrical components on this vehicle.
Installing the FPC Kit.
The FPC ( Full Power Cable ) Kit should be installed before fitting the SC80-LR Plug-&-Play Kit.
The D3 FPC Kit has a pre-wired Circuit Breaker, mounted in a protective Plastic Box fitted to one end of the 6B&S Twin Sheathed Cable, along with the cable terminals, ready to install.
Start by locating the rubber grommet high up in the firewall just to the right of the master cylinder ( Right Hand Drive ) and high up under the windscreen.
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Once you have located the robber grommet, remove it and cut the grommet as illustrated in the picture.
Do not reinstall the grommet just yet.
There is some insulating padding on the other side of the hole.
You will need to pock a hole through this padding to get the cable into the cab. I used a long flat bladed screwdriver and just kept pocking it through the insulation till I had a big enough hole.
With the hole made in the insulation, start feeding the other end of the 8B&S Twin Sheathed Cable through the hole in the firewall and into the cab.
Go into the cab and under the dash is a panel, held in place by two Philips head screws. Remove the screws.
You will then have a small flap on the console side of the panel, still plugged into the side of the console. Gently remove the plug and the panel can now be removed.
High up under the dash, between the steering wheel and the console, you will see the cable. Take care as there are some sharp objects under the dash.
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Pull most of the cable into the cab and then go back the auxiliary battery compartment and make sure there is enough slack cable in the battery compartment to be able to mount the Circuit Breaker without having any tension on the cable.
Clean the area where the plastic box, containing the circuit breaker, is to be mounted, first with a damp cloth and then take the Alcohol Swabs and clean the area again.
MAKE SURE THAT THE BOX IS MOUNTED FAR ENOUGH BACK SO THAT THE BATTERY WILL NOT COME IN CONTACT WITH IT.
NOTE, you may notice that the cable coming from the plastic box housing the circuit breaker seems loose, this is because the circuit breaker is not mounted to the plastic box and the loose cable is not a defective fitting.
Once the mounting area is total dry, remove the peel away backing from the double sided tape and firmly press the box in place.
The Black cable has 10mm Eye Terminal on the end of it and the Red cable coming from the Circuit Breaker’s plastic box has an 8mm Eye Terminal on it and both will be secured in place LATER, when you install the SC80-LR Plug-&-Play Kit.
Any remaining additional slack in the cable can now be pushed through the firewall into the cab and the rubber grommet can be reinstalled.
Try spraying the rubber grommet with some Lanolin spray or WD40, this will make the grommet much easier to reinstall.
Go back to the cab, to the kick panel just in front of the driver’s door and remove it.
To do this you must first pull some of the rubber door seal away and to do this DO NOT PULL ON THE RUBBER AS IT WILL TEAR VERY EASILY. Pull on the felt side of the door seal and remove the seal from just above the top of the kick panel and down along the bottom of the door sill all the way to the B pillar.
Gently prises the kick panel towards the center of the dash. Two white plastic plugs will pop free and the the kick panel can be pulled towards the rear of the vehicle to remove it. Note there is a velcro pad at the front edge but this will detach easily.
With the kick panel remove, you will now need to remove the door sill cover and this is a one piece panel that covers both the front and rear door sill but to remove the door sill cover you will first need to remove the panel from the lower half of the B pillar.
The panel on the lower half of the B pillar is held in place with the same type of white plastic plugs as are in the kick panel. There are four of them and again prise the panel towards the center of the cab until all four plugs detach and then remove this panel.
Now to remove the door sill cover you will need to use some force and starting at the front edge of the driver’s door, pull the sill cover up until all the plastic tabs and clips have detached, then go to the rear door and do the same and then remove the door sill cover from the vehicle.
Follow this next instruction carefully!
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After removing the door sill cover, on the under side of the cover there should be some metal clips secure to plastic mounting tabs but some of the metal clips will still be lodged in the mounting holes in the top of the door sill.
Go to each hole where the plastic tabs on the door sill cover mount and if there are any metal clips lodged in these mounting holes, make sure you have a firm grip on the metal clip in the hole and then gently remove it.
These clips will easily fall into the mounting hole and they are hard to retrieve, if you can retrieve them so take care.
Once you retrieved and loose metal clips, fix them back in place on the plastic mounting tabs on the under side of the door sill cover.
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Now back to under the dash. Simply run the cable near the bottom edge of the dash, over to the kick panel space and down to the bottom front corner of the door.
In this corner you will find two black wires secured to an earth point. Do not try to bend these wires out of the way, simply thread the cable between these two wires and the metal body at the door.
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Pull all the excess cable into the door opening and then look up under the dash, above the kick panel space and you will see a wire loom running just above and along the bottom edge of the dash. Using one of the wire ties from the kit, secure the twin sheathed cable to this wire loom, making sure the twin sheathed cable is not tight.
Also make sure there is enough loose cable to be able to tuck it back out of the way of the two kick panel plug mounts.
There is no reason to remove the plastic door sill base panel. the panel under the door sill cover, as there is a channel in this base panel that will accommodate the cable.
Now , lay the cable in the small channel on the outside edge of the door sill base panel, next to the door metal body work.
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At the B pillar, lay the cable up against the bottom edge of the B pillar and the into the channel along the rear door sill base panel.
At the rear of the rear door sill is the plastic wheel arch cover. This does not need to be removed, just lay the twin sheathed cable up beside the wheel arch panel and the rest of the cable into the cargo area.
Back at the bottom of the wheel arch cover, start pushing the cable in under the inside edge of the wheel arch cover and continue doing this up over the wheel arch and along the bottom edge of the rear side panel in the cargo area.
In the rear of the D3
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At the back of the cargo area, remove the cover off the Jack Storage Compartment and remove the jack.
Thread all the cable into the Jack Storage Compartment and bring the end out into the cargo area.
Before going further, you will need to remove the Tailgate flap.
Start by partially raising the rear seats ( if working on a 7 seater ) and remove the two large circular black plastic lugs holding the carpet to the rear cross member of the cargo area floor.
Next, lift the rear tailgate flap and use a 10mm socket to undo and remove the three bolts and then gently pull the whole tailgate flap assembly upwards off the three plastic clip on the inside of the cross member.
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Gently pull the carpet forward away from the cross member. This is where you will lay the cable.
Now, make sure the cable has no twists in it, then feed the cable, from inside the Jack Storage Compartment, up under the rear corner of the carpeted cover, where the anchor point is bolted.
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There is sound proofing under this cover but you can feed the cable under the cover through a gap in the sound proofing, near the rear edge of the cover close to the tailgate.
Go to the center of the cross member, to where there is a wire loom passing through a rubber grommet into the cross member. Remove this grommet and make a small cut along the top edge.
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Now move to the gap between the tailgate and rear cross member. In the center of the cross member you will find another rubber grommet where the wire loom come back out of the cross member.
Remove this grommet and cut the left side edge off the grommet. BE CAREFUL NOT TO CUT ANY WIRES.
Feed the cable from inside the cargo area through to the tailgate. try spraying some lanolin or WD40 onto the cable before you push it through the rubber grommet, this will make it MUCH easier to get the cable through the soft rubber of the grommet.
Pull all the slack through and then feed the cable down between the cross member and the plastic cover fixed to the cross member.
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There is a gap between the cross member and the plastic cover but you may need to use a large screwdriver to hold down the edge of the plastic while you feed the cable down through the gap.
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The cable will feed down onto the spare wheel so you will have to find the end of the cable and pull it backwards over the spare wheel.
With all the cable fed down through the gap, feed the end of the cable back up between the plastic bumper and the Tow Hitch Mount and up to where the two trailer plugs are.
Pull all the cable out the back of the D3 but DO NOT CUT THE EXCESS CABLE OFF, the extra cable will make it easier to fit the Anderson Plug.
Remove 8cm of the Black plastic out sheath from the cable and then remove 15mm of the insulation from the Black and Red cables.
Either crimp or solder the Anderson Terminals on to each cable.
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Next, push the loop of the black dust cover over the end of the cable and then place the longest length of the large black heatshrink over the end of the cable and slide the heatshrink and the dust cover up out of the way.
Now, take one of the safety covers and cut 10mm off each nipple and then slide the safety cover up over the Red and Black cables.
NOTE, check how the Anderson Plug will fit to the cable and make sure you have the indent on the safety cover is up the same way to match the indent in the Anderson Plug once it’s fitted.
With the Safety Plug on the cable fit the Anderson Plug by pushing both the Red and Black cables into the Anderson plug at the same time.
Inside the front of each housing on the Anderson plug is a small flat spring. You must push each terminal into the Anderson plug so that the small notch in each terminal is facing down so that the notch will push over and lock onto the flat spring, you will here the terminal click when it is properly latched into place.
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Now push the Safety Cover up over the back of the Anderson and then push the heatshrink up as tight as you can over the edge of the Safety Covers nipples and heat the heatshrink into place and then place the Dust Cover over the front of the Anderson plug.
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With the Anderson Plug fitted, push the excess cable back up into the rear cargo area, making sure you leave just enough to be able to fold the Anderson plug up in behind the Tow Hitch Cover as shown in the picture.
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Once you have pulled all the excess cable back into the cargo area, check that there is no slack in the cable where it comes up from the spare wheel and goes into the grommet in the cross member.
This must be a tight fit otherwise when you open the tailgate, the edge of the tailgate will rub against the cable as in the picture below.
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Pull all the excess into the Jack Storage Compartment then take the cable coming from the front of the D3 and measure a distance of 25cm along the cable from the front edge of the Jack Storage Compartment and cut the cable.
Next, run the cable coming from the Anderson Plug, up along the inside back edge of the Jack Storage Compartment to the top, then from this point, measure a distance of 25cm along the cable and cut the excess cable off.
Fitting the Power Sockets
The next job to do is fitting the Power Sockets and there are a number of options for wiring and fitting the power sockets. Please read all the options before you start.
Most D3s ( not all models ) already have a Land Rover power socket in the rear cargo area but this existing socket is only powered while the ignition is on and is powered from the cranking battery. One option is to run new cable to the existing power socket and convert it to a permanently powered socket, powered from the auxiliary battery. This Option is described further down, in the section headed Rewire Existing Land Rover Power Socket.
Another option is to run new cable over to the existing Land Rover power socket and mount a new socket next to it.
In both of the above options, there will still be a second new power socket mounted on the opposite side of the cargo area, just above the Jack Storage Compartment.
The third option is to mount both of the new power sockets next to each other just above the Jack Storage Compartment.
Once all mounting locations have been established, go to each Power Socket mounting point and drill a hole no bigger that 30mm in diameter, any larger and the hole will be visible once the Power Socket are fixed in place.
You can get 29mm hole saws which will cut the correct sized hole or you can use the more commonly available 25mm ( 1 inch ) hole saw and gently file out the hole to fit the Power Socket.
If you don’t have access to hole saws you can draw a 25mm ( 1 inch ) diameter circle and then using a 1/8th drill bit, you then drill a series of holes all the way around the circle, using the line of the circle as the centring point for each hole. With all the small holes drilled, break the centre out and then gently file the hole out till the Power Socket fits.
Note, if you intend to mount the Power Sockets side by side, you will need to have a distance of at least 60mm between the two hole centres.
Once each Power Socket mounting hole has been cut, place the Power Socket in the hole and twist it around until it is level, mark the position of the two mounting holes, remove the Power Socket and drill pilot holes for the screws using a 2mm drill bit.
Running the cable back to the Jack Compartment.
If you are mounting one of the power sockets on the opposite side of the rear cargo area to where you have run the cable through from the front, wire this socket first.
To wire the socket on the opposite side of the cargo area you will need to get access behind the carpet at the back of the tailgate.
Take the cover off the Tow Hitch Storage Compartment and feed the cable up along the back edge of the compartment and out through the Power Socket mounting hole
You will need about 30 cm of cable sticking out of the hole so you can wire up the power socket.
Next, remove 5cm of the black plastic sheath from the cables and then remove 8mm of the plastic insulation from the Red and Black cables.
Crimp a Yellow Female Spade connector onto the end of the two cables.
Next and be careful to get these connections correct, push the Black cable’s terminal onto the negative “-” terminal near the edge of the Power Socket.
Then push the Red cable’s terminal onto the Power Socket’s positive “+” terminal.
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Now push the excess cable into the hole and position the Power Socket in the hole and fix it in place using two of the Stainless Steel Countersunk Self tapping Screws from the kit.
NOTE, do not over tighten these screws as they are going into plastic and will easily strip the hole.
Rewire existing Land Rover power socket. If you choose to use the existing Land Rover power socket , you will need to remove a portion of the rubber door seal at the rear edge of the panel with the power socket fitted to it.
CAUTION, this rubber can tear very easily so use some care while removing it.
With the rubber seal removed, to get access to the rear of the Land Rover power socket, there are two plastic plugs holding the panel, just inside the rear, that need to be unclipped. You will need to pull the cover towards the center of the vehicle with a bit force.
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Once you have access to the rear of the panel, push your cable up over the top of the panel so you can fit the Yellow Female Crimp connectors ( as explained above ).
Because the terminals on the back of the Land Rover power socket are slightly thinner than the normal male crimp terminals, you will need to use pliers to gently squeeze the contacts on the Yellow Female Crimp connectors to make for a tighter fit.
Now, remove the plug from the rear of the Land Rover power socket and fit the twin sheathed cable’s BLACK wire to the Land Rover power socket’s Vertical positioned terminal and fit the twin sheathed cable’s RED wire to the Land Rover power socket’s Horizontal positioned terminal.
With the twin sheathed cable connected to the Land Rover power socket, you can push the panel back, making sure the two plugs lock the panel in place and replace the rubber door seal.
With the power socket on the opposite side of the cargo area wired up, pull any excess twin cable back down from behind Tow Hitch Storage Compartment and then push the cable through the gap under the panel at the rear of cargo area, as described earlier for the heavy cable. Lay the cable under the carpet across the back of the cargo area.
On the other side, feed the cable through the gap next to the heavy cable, up into the Jack Store Compartment.
Push the end of the 6mm Twin Sheathed cable up behind the rear panel next to the Jack Store Compartment and through the hole for the other Power Socket.
Fit the two Yellow Female Crimp Terminals on the end of the 6mm Twin Sheathed cable, as described above, and then secure the Power Socket in place with the two remaining screws.
Joining all the cables
Start by pulling all the excess 6mm Twin Sheathed cable, coming from each Power Socket, out through the Jack Store Compartment and into the cargo area.
Cut the 6mm Twin Sheathed cable so you have two equal lengths, then remove about 15cm of the black plastic sheath from the ends of the two 6mm Twin Sheathed cables.
Take one of Red 6mm Power Socket cables and cut 10cm off the end of the Red cable.
Now cut the 10cm Red 6mm cable in half and disregard one of these short red cables.
Strip 8mm of insulation off one end off the other short Red 6mm cable and crimp a Yellow Female Spade connector onto the end of the short cable.
Go back to the Red cable still coming from the twin sheath, and strip 8mm of insulation off the end of this Red 6mm cable and crimp a Yellow Female Spade connector onto the end of the Red cable.
Because the terminals on the In-line Blade Fuse Holders are slightly thinner than the normal male crimp terminals, you will need to use pliers to gently squeeze the contacts on the Yellow Female Crimp connectors to make for a tighter fit.
Take the short Red 6mm cable and remove 15mm of plastic insulation off the other end.
Take the Black 6mm cable and remove 15mm of plastic insulation off the end of this cable.
Get the 6B&S Twin Sheathed cable coming from the front of the vehicle and remove 5cm of the black plastic sheath from the cables, then remove 15mm of the plastic insulation from the Red and Black cables.
Now place the bared copper strands of the short Red 6mm cable and the bared copper strands of the 6B&S Red cable side by side and twist the bared copper strands together.
Push the twisted bared copper cable into the one of the 2 Way Screw Block terminals and tighten the screw down to secure the copper cable in place.
Place the bared copper strands of the Black 6mm cable and the bared copper strands of the 6B&S Black cable side by side and twist the bared copper strands together.
Push the twisted bared copper cable into the 2 Way Screw Block terminals next to the Red cables and tighten the screw down to secure the copper cable in place.
Now get the In-line Blade Fuse Holder and push a 20 amp fuse into the holder and then push the Yellow Female Spade connectors on the Red 6mm cables, onto one of Male terminals on each side of the Fuse Holder.
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Now do the same for the other 6mm Power Socket cable and the cable coming from the Anderson plug.
With the cables all joined together, wrap electrical tape around the cables, leaving access to the fuses, as shown below.
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Tuck the cable and fuse holders down under the edge of the Jack Store Compartment so that they are out of the way should you need to get the jack out.
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Do not reassemble the rear cover just yet.
This completes the cable installation in cargo area, now go back to the engine
Engine Bay High Current Extension Lead.
If you are not going to use the second Anderson plug on a trailer or caravan, you can use the leftover short length of 6B&S Twin Sheathed cable, the two additional Cable Eye Terminals, Heatshrink and the Anderson plug to make up a high current extension lead to fit to the auxiliary battery for use with a compressor or other high current appliances.
Start by sliding the plastic sheath back from one end of the cable and fit the Safety cover and Anderson plug as described earlier.
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With the Safety Cover and Anderson plug fitted, slide the plastic sheath back up against the nipples on the Safety Cover and then get the other short length of large Black Heatshrink and slide it up over the edge of the Safety Cover nipples and heat them to shrink them in place.
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Now go to the other end of the cable and remove about 15cm of the plastic sheath and then remove 12 mm of plastic insulation off the Red and Black cables and slide the two small red and black pieces of heatshrink over the cables.
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Now crimp or solder the 8mm Cable Eye Terminals onto the Red and Black cable and then slide the Heatshrink up over the back of each terminal and heat them to shrink them in place.
Before connecting the new cable to the auxiliary battery, first unplug the Red cable coming from the cranking battery where it connects to the SC80.
Next remove the Negative cables from the auxiliary battery and then the positive cables.
Fit the new extension lead’s red cable with the other red cables to the auxiliary battery’s positive terminal and the extension lead’s black cable with the other black cables to the auxiliary battery’s negative terminal.
Plug the Red cable coming from the cranking battery back into the SC80
The new Extension Lead can then be tucked away in front of the auxiliary battery, inside the auxiliary battery compartment.
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Mounting the SC80-LR Plug-&-Play Kit.
Go to the Auxiliary Battery Compartment and follow where the wall of the compartment runs beside engine to where it comes to an indent just before the wall reaches the back of the engine bay. This is where Control Module is to be fitted.
Before fitting the control module, make sure the surface that the control module is to be fitted to is clean and dry. Even if the surface appears to be clean, the surface in the area where the module is to be fitted should be wiped with a damp cloth and then with a dry cloth and the with the alcohol swabs provided in the kit.
It is important that the mounting area is clean, dry and free of any greasy materials.
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SPECIAL NOTE :- for LEFT HAND drive vehicles, the MODULE will be mounted in the battery compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle.
The back of the control module has industrial grade double sided tape on it, DO NOT remove the the peel away backing from the tape just yet.
Take the Control Module and position it in the indent as low as possible. Position the module so the LED at the top and the circuit breaker is facing towards the front of the engine bay and resting against the front edge of the compartment’s indent.
You may find a white plastic mounting block fitted to the inside of the D3’s Auxiliary Battery Compartment wall, in the position where you are going to mount the SC80-LR control module. Simply twist this white plastic block 90 degrease and remove it.
Once you are satisfied that the module is in the correct location, remove the peel away backing from the double sided tape and firmly press the module in place.
Once it is in place, it is there to stay so make sure you have it positioned correctly.
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On the inner guard side of the Auxiliary Battery Compartment, towards the rear of the compartment, locate the Battery Earth Mounting Stud, fixed to the body at the back of the Battery compartment. You may need a torch to locate it
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SPECIAL NOTE :- for LEFT HAND drive vehicles, the EARTH NUT will be on the driver’s side of the vehicle.
CAUTION :- You will need to unscrew the nut from the Earth Mount. Make sure you keep a firm grip on the nut because if you drop it down the back of the Battery Compartment you will have a hard time retrieving it.
Take a 13mm spanner, loosen the nut and remove it.
On either end of the thick Black Earth Lead is an eye terminal, one has an 8mm eye terminal and the other has a larger 10mm eye terminal.
Fit the 10mm eye terminal to the Battery Earth Mounting Stud, also place the 10mm eye terminal on the end of the thin Black wire coming from the Control Module and also fit the eye terminal on the end of the cable going to the rear, onto the stud as well and replace the nut. Make sure the nut is secured tightly as it is very difficult to get at once the battery is in place.
CAUTION :- With the nut in place, make sure the black wire coming from the control module is pushed all the way to the back of the battery compartment so that when the battery is fitted in place, it will not sit on the black wire.
Also make sure the thick Black and Red cables are pushed out of the way to allow you place the battery in the compartment and still reach the cables
PLACING THE BATTERY
The battery needs to be fitted with the battery’s positive terminal towards the back of the Battery Compartment, so make sure when you pickup the battery, you have it the correct way round to save you trying to turn it once you have it in the engine bay.
Get the Battery Bracket and two long bolts from the kit and secure the battery in place.
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In the kit are two Battery Terminal Clamps, one for the positive terminal and one for the negative terminal. On the underside of each clamp is a bolt, remove the bolt and then fix the clamps to the correct battery terminal and tighten the securing nut and bolt.
DO NOT CONNECT THE BLACK EARTH LEAD AT THIS TIME.
SPECIAL NOTE :- When fitting the battery in LEFT HAND DRIVE vehicles, the bracket may come in contact with the terminals on some types of batteries.
For this reason, the RED cable coming from the SC80-LR module is longer so that the battery in LEFT HAND DRIVE vehicles can be fitted with the Positive terminal towards the front of the battery compartment and the battery bracket can then be fitted without coming in contact with either battery terminal.
Take the Red Battery Cable covered with the Black Split Tube from the kit and go to the other side of the engine bay, to the Cranking Battery.
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On the clamp on the Cranking Battery’s positive terminal is a threaded hole. On one end of the Red Battery Cable that came with the kit is an 8mm eye terminal, take the Stainless Steel Bolt and Washer from the kit and secure the Kit’s Red Battery Cable to the hole in the Cranking Battery’s positive terminal with the Stainless Steel Bolt and Washer using a 13mm spanner.
Lay the Red Battery Cable back along side the edge of the Cranking battery, to the rear of on Cranking battery Compartment then across the rear edge of the engine bay towards the Auxiliary Battery Compartment.
Coming from the SC80-LR module is a Red cable with an 8mm eye terminal fixed to the end of it, take this cable and the Red cable coming from the rear of the D3 and bolt these two eye terminals to the Auxiliary battery’s positive terminal clamp using one of the terminal clamp bolts.
Take two Wire Ties from the kit and go the the rear edge of the engine bay and on either side, along the edge where you laid the Red Battery Cable, you will see short slots in the ledge along the back of the engine bay.
CAUTION :- Some D3 models ( petrol engine ) have a thin black pipe just under this ledge, gently move this pipe back a few millimetres so you can thread the wire tie through the slot and around the Red Battery Cable BUT NOT AROUND THE THIN BLACK PIPE.
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Secure the Red Battery Cable on both sides of the engine bay with the wire ties.
Now go to the Auxiliary battery’s negative terminal and connect the Black Earth Lead to the negative terminal using the other Battery Clamp bolt.
Now push the plug on the Red Battery to Battery Cable coming from the cranking, into the socket coming from the SC80-LR.
Once you have plugged the connectors together the Green LED on the SC80-LR will be on and flashing.
INSTALLATION OF THE DUAL BATTERY SYSTEM IS NOW COMPLETE.
Before putting the Battery Compartment Covers back on, test the the system.
The Green LED on the SC80-LR will be flashing. This indicates that the SC80-LR has power but the Cranking Battery voltage is below the CUT-IN voltage level.
If you have a digital multi meter, measure the voltage at the auxiliary battery then go to the two Power Sockets in the cargo area and the Anderson plug measure them.
To measure the sockets, place the tip of the digital multi meter’s Red probe down on the metal contact in the Power Socket and the digital multi meter’s Black probe on the inside edge of the Power Socket.
The reading should be the same as the one you got at the battery.
[COLOR=Blue]SPECIAL NOTE, when taking readings at the Power Sockets, the reading must not have a “ - ” sign before the number, EG “ -12.53 “ as this indicates the Power Socket is wired up incorrectly and you MUST reverse the Red and Black cables on the back of the Power Socket.
Check both sockets and the Anderson Plug, to be sure they have power and are wired up correctly.
Next, start the motor and let it idle.
After a few seconds to a minute at most, the Green LED will glow constantly. This indicates the Cranking Battery voltage has risen above the CUT-IN voltage level and the SC80-LR has now connected the Cranking battery and the Auxiliary battery together.
If all is working correctly, turn the motor off and go to the rear to the cargo area.
Before reassemble the Tailgate Flap, you might need to fill he hole in the rubber grommet, where the cable comes out under the Tailgate Flap, with some sealant.
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Reassemble the Tailgate Flap and then go to the engine bay and place the two Battery Compartment Covers back on and your ready to go.
[COLOR=Sienna]THIS KIT IS MANUFACTURED IN AUSTRALIA AND SUPPLIED BY
TRAXIDE TRONICS
TRAXIDE (http://www.traxide.com.au)
The D3 FPC Kit is $399 from Traxide and you can order it over the phone - 07 5569 2557
You can now purchase this product online HERE! (http://www.davesitshop.com/davesitshop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=41)
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The kit contains the following items :-
7m x 6B&S Twin Sheathed Cable
3m x 6mm Auto Twin Sheathed Cable
2 x 50 amp anderson plugs and terminals
2 x Safety Covers for Anderson Plugs
2 x Dust Covers for Anderson Plugs
2 x Flush Mount Power Sockets + 4 Countersunk Self Tapping Screws
2 x In-line Blade Fuse Holders + 2 x 20 amp Blade Fuses
1 x 50 amp Circuit Breaker pre-wired and mounted in a Protective Plastic Box
1 x 2 Way Screw Block Terminal
8 x Yellow Female Spade Crimp Terminals
2 x Heavy Duty Cable Eye Terminal.
3 x Wire Ties
2 x Alcohol Swabs
Assorted Heatshrink.
This kit is designed to provide a high current capacity power cable to the rear of the D3 and to add two new permanently powered sockets to the rear of a D3. The kit is also includes parts for an optional engine bay high current capacity power cable and Anderson plug, all powered from the Auxiliary Battery.
Pre Installation requirements. If you have just turned your Ignition off, make sure the Park Brake is applied and the key is removed from the ignition.
Pull the bonnet release and open the bonnet. Remove both Battery Compartment covers. This is done by first releasing the 2 tabs at the front of both covers and then lift the front edge of the covers and then twisting and remove the covers.
Now, go back to the cab and check that the Park Brake Light is out. This is important, while the Park Brake Light is on, the vehicle’s computers are still going through their Shutdown routines and these Shutdown routines MUST BE COMPLETED before you work on any electrical components on this vehicle.
Installing the FPC Kit.
The FPC ( Full Power Cable ) Kit should be installed before fitting the SC80-LR Plug-&-Play Kit.
The D3 FPC Kit has a pre-wired Circuit Breaker, mounted in a protective Plastic Box fitted to one end of the 6B&S Twin Sheathed Cable, along with the cable terminals, ready to install.
Start by locating the rubber grommet high up in the firewall just to the right of the master cylinder ( Right Hand Drive ) and high up under the windscreen.
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Once you have located the robber grommet, remove it and cut the grommet as illustrated in the picture.
Do not reinstall the grommet just yet.
There is some insulating padding on the other side of the hole.
You will need to pock a hole through this padding to get the cable into the cab. I used a long flat bladed screwdriver and just kept pocking it through the insulation till I had a big enough hole.
With the hole made in the insulation, start feeding the other end of the 8B&S Twin Sheathed Cable through the hole in the firewall and into the cab.
Go into the cab and under the dash is a panel, held in place by two Philips head screws. Remove the screws.
You will then have a small flap on the console side of the panel, still plugged into the side of the console. Gently remove the plug and the panel can now be removed.
High up under the dash, between the steering wheel and the console, you will see the cable. Take care as there are some sharp objects under the dash.
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Pull most of the cable into the cab and then go back the auxiliary battery compartment and make sure there is enough slack cable in the battery compartment to be able to mount the Circuit Breaker without having any tension on the cable.
Clean the area where the plastic box, containing the circuit breaker, is to be mounted, first with a damp cloth and then take the Alcohol Swabs and clean the area again.
MAKE SURE THAT THE BOX IS MOUNTED FAR ENOUGH BACK SO THAT THE BATTERY WILL NOT COME IN CONTACT WITH IT.
NOTE, you may notice that the cable coming from the plastic box housing the circuit breaker seems loose, this is because the circuit breaker is not mounted to the plastic box and the loose cable is not a defective fitting.
Once the mounting area is total dry, remove the peel away backing from the double sided tape and firmly press the box in place.
The Black cable has 10mm Eye Terminal on the end of it and the Red cable coming from the Circuit Breaker’s plastic box has an 8mm Eye Terminal on it and both will be secured in place LATER, when you install the SC80-LR Plug-&-Play Kit.
Any remaining additional slack in the cable can now be pushed through the firewall into the cab and the rubber grommet can be reinstalled.
Try spraying the rubber grommet with some Lanolin spray or WD40, this will make the grommet much easier to reinstall.
Go back to the cab, to the kick panel just in front of the driver’s door and remove it.
To do this you must first pull some of the rubber door seal away and to do this DO NOT PULL ON THE RUBBER AS IT WILL TEAR VERY EASILY. Pull on the felt side of the door seal and remove the seal from just above the top of the kick panel and down along the bottom of the door sill all the way to the B pillar.
Gently prises the kick panel towards the center of the dash. Two white plastic plugs will pop free and the the kick panel can be pulled towards the rear of the vehicle to remove it. Note there is a velcro pad at the front edge but this will detach easily.
With the kick panel remove, you will now need to remove the door sill cover and this is a one piece panel that covers both the front and rear door sill but to remove the door sill cover you will first need to remove the panel from the lower half of the B pillar.
The panel on the lower half of the B pillar is held in place with the same type of white plastic plugs as are in the kick panel. There are four of them and again prise the panel towards the center of the cab until all four plugs detach and then remove this panel.
Now to remove the door sill cover you will need to use some force and starting at the front edge of the driver’s door, pull the sill cover up until all the plastic tabs and clips have detached, then go to the rear door and do the same and then remove the door sill cover from the vehicle.
Follow this next instruction carefully!
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After removing the door sill cover, on the under side of the cover there should be some metal clips secure to plastic mounting tabs but some of the metal clips will still be lodged in the mounting holes in the top of the door sill.
Go to each hole where the plastic tabs on the door sill cover mount and if there are any metal clips lodged in these mounting holes, make sure you have a firm grip on the metal clip in the hole and then gently remove it.
These clips will easily fall into the mounting hole and they are hard to retrieve, if you can retrieve them so take care.
Once you retrieved and loose metal clips, fix them back in place on the plastic mounting tabs on the under side of the door sill cover.
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Now back to under the dash. Simply run the cable near the bottom edge of the dash, over to the kick panel space and down to the bottom front corner of the door.
In this corner you will find two black wires secured to an earth point. Do not try to bend these wires out of the way, simply thread the cable between these two wires and the metal body at the door.
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Pull all the excess cable into the door opening and then look up under the dash, above the kick panel space and you will see a wire loom running just above and along the bottom edge of the dash. Using one of the wire ties from the kit, secure the twin sheathed cable to this wire loom, making sure the twin sheathed cable is not tight.
Also make sure there is enough loose cable to be able to tuck it back out of the way of the two kick panel plug mounts.
There is no reason to remove the plastic door sill base panel. the panel under the door sill cover, as there is a channel in this base panel that will accommodate the cable.
Now , lay the cable in the small channel on the outside edge of the door sill base panel, next to the door metal body work.
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At the B pillar, lay the cable up against the bottom edge of the B pillar and the into the channel along the rear door sill base panel.
At the rear of the rear door sill is the plastic wheel arch cover. This does not need to be removed, just lay the twin sheathed cable up beside the wheel arch panel and the rest of the cable into the cargo area.
Back at the bottom of the wheel arch cover, start pushing the cable in under the inside edge of the wheel arch cover and continue doing this up over the wheel arch and along the bottom edge of the rear side panel in the cargo area.
In the rear of the D3
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At the back of the cargo area, remove the cover off the Jack Storage Compartment and remove the jack.
Thread all the cable into the Jack Storage Compartment and bring the end out into the cargo area.
Before going further, you will need to remove the Tailgate flap.
Start by partially raising the rear seats ( if working on a 7 seater ) and remove the two large circular black plastic lugs holding the carpet to the rear cross member of the cargo area floor.
Next, lift the rear tailgate flap and use a 10mm socket to undo and remove the three bolts and then gently pull the whole tailgate flap assembly upwards off the three plastic clip on the inside of the cross member.
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Gently pull the carpet forward away from the cross member. This is where you will lay the cable.
Now, make sure the cable has no twists in it, then feed the cable, from inside the Jack Storage Compartment, up under the rear corner of the carpeted cover, where the anchor point is bolted.
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There is sound proofing under this cover but you can feed the cable under the cover through a gap in the sound proofing, near the rear edge of the cover close to the tailgate.
Go to the center of the cross member, to where there is a wire loom passing through a rubber grommet into the cross member. Remove this grommet and make a small cut along the top edge.
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Now move to the gap between the tailgate and rear cross member. In the center of the cross member you will find another rubber grommet where the wire loom come back out of the cross member.
Remove this grommet and cut the left side edge off the grommet. BE CAREFUL NOT TO CUT ANY WIRES.
Feed the cable from inside the cargo area through to the tailgate. try spraying some lanolin or WD40 onto the cable before you push it through the rubber grommet, this will make it MUCH easier to get the cable through the soft rubber of the grommet.
Pull all the slack through and then feed the cable down between the cross member and the plastic cover fixed to the cross member.
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There is a gap between the cross member and the plastic cover but you may need to use a large screwdriver to hold down the edge of the plastic while you feed the cable down through the gap.
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The cable will feed down onto the spare wheel so you will have to find the end of the cable and pull it backwards over the spare wheel.
With all the cable fed down through the gap, feed the end of the cable back up between the plastic bumper and the Tow Hitch Mount and up to where the two trailer plugs are.
Pull all the cable out the back of the D3 but DO NOT CUT THE EXCESS CABLE OFF, the extra cable will make it easier to fit the Anderson Plug.
Remove 8cm of the Black plastic out sheath from the cable and then remove 15mm of the insulation from the Black and Red cables.
Either crimp or solder the Anderson Terminals on to each cable.
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Next, push the loop of the black dust cover over the end of the cable and then place the longest length of the large black heatshrink over the end of the cable and slide the heatshrink and the dust cover up out of the way.
Now, take one of the safety covers and cut 10mm off each nipple and then slide the safety cover up over the Red and Black cables.
NOTE, check how the Anderson Plug will fit to the cable and make sure you have the indent on the safety cover is up the same way to match the indent in the Anderson Plug once it’s fitted.
With the Safety Plug on the cable fit the Anderson Plug by pushing both the Red and Black cables into the Anderson plug at the same time.
Inside the front of each housing on the Anderson plug is a small flat spring. You must push each terminal into the Anderson plug so that the small notch in each terminal is facing down so that the notch will push over and lock onto the flat spring, you will here the terminal click when it is properly latched into place.
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Now push the Safety Cover up over the back of the Anderson and then push the heatshrink up as tight as you can over the edge of the Safety Covers nipples and heat the heatshrink into place and then place the Dust Cover over the front of the Anderson plug.
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With the Anderson Plug fitted, push the excess cable back up into the rear cargo area, making sure you leave just enough to be able to fold the Anderson plug up in behind the Tow Hitch Cover as shown in the picture.
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Once you have pulled all the excess cable back into the cargo area, check that there is no slack in the cable where it comes up from the spare wheel and goes into the grommet in the cross member.
This must be a tight fit otherwise when you open the tailgate, the edge of the tailgate will rub against the cable as in the picture below.
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Pull all the excess into the Jack Storage Compartment then take the cable coming from the front of the D3 and measure a distance of 25cm along the cable from the front edge of the Jack Storage Compartment and cut the cable.
Next, run the cable coming from the Anderson Plug, up along the inside back edge of the Jack Storage Compartment to the top, then from this point, measure a distance of 25cm along the cable and cut the excess cable off.
Fitting the Power Sockets
The next job to do is fitting the Power Sockets and there are a number of options for wiring and fitting the power sockets. Please read all the options before you start.
Most D3s ( not all models ) already have a Land Rover power socket in the rear cargo area but this existing socket is only powered while the ignition is on and is powered from the cranking battery. One option is to run new cable to the existing power socket and convert it to a permanently powered socket, powered from the auxiliary battery. This Option is described further down, in the section headed Rewire Existing Land Rover Power Socket.
Another option is to run new cable over to the existing Land Rover power socket and mount a new socket next to it.
In both of the above options, there will still be a second new power socket mounted on the opposite side of the cargo area, just above the Jack Storage Compartment.
The third option is to mount both of the new power sockets next to each other just above the Jack Storage Compartment.
Once all mounting locations have been established, go to each Power Socket mounting point and drill a hole no bigger that 30mm in diameter, any larger and the hole will be visible once the Power Socket are fixed in place.
You can get 29mm hole saws which will cut the correct sized hole or you can use the more commonly available 25mm ( 1 inch ) hole saw and gently file out the hole to fit the Power Socket.
If you don’t have access to hole saws you can draw a 25mm ( 1 inch ) diameter circle and then using a 1/8th drill bit, you then drill a series of holes all the way around the circle, using the line of the circle as the centring point for each hole. With all the small holes drilled, break the centre out and then gently file the hole out till the Power Socket fits.
Note, if you intend to mount the Power Sockets side by side, you will need to have a distance of at least 60mm between the two hole centres.
Once each Power Socket mounting hole has been cut, place the Power Socket in the hole and twist it around until it is level, mark the position of the two mounting holes, remove the Power Socket and drill pilot holes for the screws using a 2mm drill bit.
Running the cable back to the Jack Compartment.
If you are mounting one of the power sockets on the opposite side of the rear cargo area to where you have run the cable through from the front, wire this socket first.
To wire the socket on the opposite side of the cargo area you will need to get access behind the carpet at the back of the tailgate.
Take the cover off the Tow Hitch Storage Compartment and feed the cable up along the back edge of the compartment and out through the Power Socket mounting hole
You will need about 30 cm of cable sticking out of the hole so you can wire up the power socket.
Next, remove 5cm of the black plastic sheath from the cables and then remove 8mm of the plastic insulation from the Red and Black cables.
Crimp a Yellow Female Spade connector onto the end of the two cables.
Next and be careful to get these connections correct, push the Black cable’s terminal onto the negative “-” terminal near the edge of the Power Socket.
Then push the Red cable’s terminal onto the Power Socket’s positive “+” terminal.
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Now push the excess cable into the hole and position the Power Socket in the hole and fix it in place using two of the Stainless Steel Countersunk Self tapping Screws from the kit.
NOTE, do not over tighten these screws as they are going into plastic and will easily strip the hole.
Rewire existing Land Rover power socket. If you choose to use the existing Land Rover power socket , you will need to remove a portion of the rubber door seal at the rear edge of the panel with the power socket fitted to it.
CAUTION, this rubber can tear very easily so use some care while removing it.
With the rubber seal removed, to get access to the rear of the Land Rover power socket, there are two plastic plugs holding the panel, just inside the rear, that need to be unclipped. You will need to pull the cover towards the center of the vehicle with a bit force.
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Once you have access to the rear of the panel, push your cable up over the top of the panel so you can fit the Yellow Female Crimp connectors ( as explained above ).
Because the terminals on the back of the Land Rover power socket are slightly thinner than the normal male crimp terminals, you will need to use pliers to gently squeeze the contacts on the Yellow Female Crimp connectors to make for a tighter fit.
Now, remove the plug from the rear of the Land Rover power socket and fit the twin sheathed cable’s BLACK wire to the Land Rover power socket’s Vertical positioned terminal and fit the twin sheathed cable’s RED wire to the Land Rover power socket’s Horizontal positioned terminal.
With the twin sheathed cable connected to the Land Rover power socket, you can push the panel back, making sure the two plugs lock the panel in place and replace the rubber door seal.
With the power socket on the opposite side of the cargo area wired up, pull any excess twin cable back down from behind Tow Hitch Storage Compartment and then push the cable through the gap under the panel at the rear of cargo area, as described earlier for the heavy cable. Lay the cable under the carpet across the back of the cargo area.
On the other side, feed the cable through the gap next to the heavy cable, up into the Jack Store Compartment.
Push the end of the 6mm Twin Sheathed cable up behind the rear panel next to the Jack Store Compartment and through the hole for the other Power Socket.
Fit the two Yellow Female Crimp Terminals on the end of the 6mm Twin Sheathed cable, as described above, and then secure the Power Socket in place with the two remaining screws.
Joining all the cables
Start by pulling all the excess 6mm Twin Sheathed cable, coming from each Power Socket, out through the Jack Store Compartment and into the cargo area.
Cut the 6mm Twin Sheathed cable so you have two equal lengths, then remove about 15cm of the black plastic sheath from the ends of the two 6mm Twin Sheathed cables.
Take one of Red 6mm Power Socket cables and cut 10cm off the end of the Red cable.
Now cut the 10cm Red 6mm cable in half and disregard one of these short red cables.
Strip 8mm of insulation off one end off the other short Red 6mm cable and crimp a Yellow Female Spade connector onto the end of the short cable.
Go back to the Red cable still coming from the twin sheath, and strip 8mm of insulation off the end of this Red 6mm cable and crimp a Yellow Female Spade connector onto the end of the Red cable.
Because the terminals on the In-line Blade Fuse Holders are slightly thinner than the normal male crimp terminals, you will need to use pliers to gently squeeze the contacts on the Yellow Female Crimp connectors to make for a tighter fit.
Take the short Red 6mm cable and remove 15mm of plastic insulation off the other end.
Take the Black 6mm cable and remove 15mm of plastic insulation off the end of this cable.
Get the 6B&S Twin Sheathed cable coming from the front of the vehicle and remove 5cm of the black plastic sheath from the cables, then remove 15mm of the plastic insulation from the Red and Black cables.
Now place the bared copper strands of the short Red 6mm cable and the bared copper strands of the 6B&S Red cable side by side and twist the bared copper strands together.
Push the twisted bared copper cable into the one of the 2 Way Screw Block terminals and tighten the screw down to secure the copper cable in place.
Place the bared copper strands of the Black 6mm cable and the bared copper strands of the 6B&S Black cable side by side and twist the bared copper strands together.
Push the twisted bared copper cable into the 2 Way Screw Block terminals next to the Red cables and tighten the screw down to secure the copper cable in place.
Now get the In-line Blade Fuse Holder and push a 20 amp fuse into the holder and then push the Yellow Female Spade connectors on the Red 6mm cables, onto one of Male terminals on each side of the Fuse Holder.
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Now do the same for the other 6mm Power Socket cable and the cable coming from the Anderson plug.
With the cables all joined together, wrap electrical tape around the cables, leaving access to the fuses, as shown below.
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Tuck the cable and fuse holders down under the edge of the Jack Store Compartment so that they are out of the way should you need to get the jack out.
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Do not reassemble the rear cover just yet.
This completes the cable installation in cargo area, now go back to the engine
Engine Bay High Current Extension Lead.
If you are not going to use the second Anderson plug on a trailer or caravan, you can use the leftover short length of 6B&S Twin Sheathed cable, the two additional Cable Eye Terminals, Heatshrink and the Anderson plug to make up a high current extension lead to fit to the auxiliary battery for use with a compressor or other high current appliances.
Start by sliding the plastic sheath back from one end of the cable and fit the Safety cover and Anderson plug as described earlier.
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With the Safety Cover and Anderson plug fitted, slide the plastic sheath back up against the nipples on the Safety Cover and then get the other short length of large Black Heatshrink and slide it up over the edge of the Safety Cover nipples and heat them to shrink them in place.
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Now go to the other end of the cable and remove about 15cm of the plastic sheath and then remove 12 mm of plastic insulation off the Red and Black cables and slide the two small red and black pieces of heatshrink over the cables.
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Now crimp or solder the 8mm Cable Eye Terminals onto the Red and Black cable and then slide the Heatshrink up over the back of each terminal and heat them to shrink them in place.
Before connecting the new cable to the auxiliary battery, first unplug the Red cable coming from the cranking battery where it connects to the SC80.
Next remove the Negative cables from the auxiliary battery and then the positive cables.
Fit the new extension lead’s red cable with the other red cables to the auxiliary battery’s positive terminal and the extension lead’s black cable with the other black cables to the auxiliary battery’s negative terminal.
Plug the Red cable coming from the cranking battery back into the SC80
The new Extension Lead can then be tucked away in front of the auxiliary battery, inside the auxiliary battery compartment.
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Mounting the SC80-LR Plug-&-Play Kit.
Go to the Auxiliary Battery Compartment and follow where the wall of the compartment runs beside engine to where it comes to an indent just before the wall reaches the back of the engine bay. This is where Control Module is to be fitted.
Before fitting the control module, make sure the surface that the control module is to be fitted to is clean and dry. Even if the surface appears to be clean, the surface in the area where the module is to be fitted should be wiped with a damp cloth and then with a dry cloth and the with the alcohol swabs provided in the kit.
It is important that the mounting area is clean, dry and free of any greasy materials.
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SPECIAL NOTE :- for LEFT HAND drive vehicles, the MODULE will be mounted in the battery compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle.
The back of the control module has industrial grade double sided tape on it, DO NOT remove the the peel away backing from the tape just yet.
Take the Control Module and position it in the indent as low as possible. Position the module so the LED at the top and the circuit breaker is facing towards the front of the engine bay and resting against the front edge of the compartment’s indent.
You may find a white plastic mounting block fitted to the inside of the D3’s Auxiliary Battery Compartment wall, in the position where you are going to mount the SC80-LR control module. Simply twist this white plastic block 90 degrease and remove it.
Once you are satisfied that the module is in the correct location, remove the peel away backing from the double sided tape and firmly press the module in place.
Once it is in place, it is there to stay so make sure you have it positioned correctly.
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On the inner guard side of the Auxiliary Battery Compartment, towards the rear of the compartment, locate the Battery Earth Mounting Stud, fixed to the body at the back of the Battery compartment. You may need a torch to locate it
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SPECIAL NOTE :- for LEFT HAND drive vehicles, the EARTH NUT will be on the driver’s side of the vehicle.
CAUTION :- You will need to unscrew the nut from the Earth Mount. Make sure you keep a firm grip on the nut because if you drop it down the back of the Battery Compartment you will have a hard time retrieving it.
Take a 13mm spanner, loosen the nut and remove it.
On either end of the thick Black Earth Lead is an eye terminal, one has an 8mm eye terminal and the other has a larger 10mm eye terminal.
Fit the 10mm eye terminal to the Battery Earth Mounting Stud, also place the 10mm eye terminal on the end of the thin Black wire coming from the Control Module and also fit the eye terminal on the end of the cable going to the rear, onto the stud as well and replace the nut. Make sure the nut is secured tightly as it is very difficult to get at once the battery is in place.
CAUTION :- With the nut in place, make sure the black wire coming from the control module is pushed all the way to the back of the battery compartment so that when the battery is fitted in place, it will not sit on the black wire.
Also make sure the thick Black and Red cables are pushed out of the way to allow you place the battery in the compartment and still reach the cables
PLACING THE BATTERY
The battery needs to be fitted with the battery’s positive terminal towards the back of the Battery Compartment, so make sure when you pickup the battery, you have it the correct way round to save you trying to turn it once you have it in the engine bay.
Get the Battery Bracket and two long bolts from the kit and secure the battery in place.
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In the kit are two Battery Terminal Clamps, one for the positive terminal and one for the negative terminal. On the underside of each clamp is a bolt, remove the bolt and then fix the clamps to the correct battery terminal and tighten the securing nut and bolt.
DO NOT CONNECT THE BLACK EARTH LEAD AT THIS TIME.
SPECIAL NOTE :- When fitting the battery in LEFT HAND DRIVE vehicles, the bracket may come in contact with the terminals on some types of batteries.
For this reason, the RED cable coming from the SC80-LR module is longer so that the battery in LEFT HAND DRIVE vehicles can be fitted with the Positive terminal towards the front of the battery compartment and the battery bracket can then be fitted without coming in contact with either battery terminal.
Take the Red Battery Cable covered with the Black Split Tube from the kit and go to the other side of the engine bay, to the Cranking Battery.
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On the clamp on the Cranking Battery’s positive terminal is a threaded hole. On one end of the Red Battery Cable that came with the kit is an 8mm eye terminal, take the Stainless Steel Bolt and Washer from the kit and secure the Kit’s Red Battery Cable to the hole in the Cranking Battery’s positive terminal with the Stainless Steel Bolt and Washer using a 13mm spanner.
Lay the Red Battery Cable back along side the edge of the Cranking battery, to the rear of on Cranking battery Compartment then across the rear edge of the engine bay towards the Auxiliary Battery Compartment.
Coming from the SC80-LR module is a Red cable with an 8mm eye terminal fixed to the end of it, take this cable and the Red cable coming from the rear of the D3 and bolt these two eye terminals to the Auxiliary battery’s positive terminal clamp using one of the terminal clamp bolts.
Take two Wire Ties from the kit and go the the rear edge of the engine bay and on either side, along the edge where you laid the Red Battery Cable, you will see short slots in the ledge along the back of the engine bay.
CAUTION :- Some D3 models ( petrol engine ) have a thin black pipe just under this ledge, gently move this pipe back a few millimetres so you can thread the wire tie through the slot and around the Red Battery Cable BUT NOT AROUND THE THIN BLACK PIPE.
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Secure the Red Battery Cable on both sides of the engine bay with the wire ties.
Now go to the Auxiliary battery’s negative terminal and connect the Black Earth Lead to the negative terminal using the other Battery Clamp bolt.
Now push the plug on the Red Battery to Battery Cable coming from the cranking, into the socket coming from the SC80-LR.
Once you have plugged the connectors together the Green LED on the SC80-LR will be on and flashing.
INSTALLATION OF THE DUAL BATTERY SYSTEM IS NOW COMPLETE.
Before putting the Battery Compartment Covers back on, test the the system.
The Green LED on the SC80-LR will be flashing. This indicates that the SC80-LR has power but the Cranking Battery voltage is below the CUT-IN voltage level.
If you have a digital multi meter, measure the voltage at the auxiliary battery then go to the two Power Sockets in the cargo area and the Anderson plug measure them.
To measure the sockets, place the tip of the digital multi meter’s Red probe down on the metal contact in the Power Socket and the digital multi meter’s Black probe on the inside edge of the Power Socket.
The reading should be the same as the one you got at the battery.
[COLOR=Blue]SPECIAL NOTE, when taking readings at the Power Sockets, the reading must not have a “ - ” sign before the number, EG “ -12.53 “ as this indicates the Power Socket is wired up incorrectly and you MUST reverse the Red and Black cables on the back of the Power Socket.
Check both sockets and the Anderson Plug, to be sure they have power and are wired up correctly.
Next, start the motor and let it idle.
After a few seconds to a minute at most, the Green LED will glow constantly. This indicates the Cranking Battery voltage has risen above the CUT-IN voltage level and the SC80-LR has now connected the Cranking battery and the Auxiliary battery together.
If all is working correctly, turn the motor off and go to the rear to the cargo area.
Before reassemble the Tailgate Flap, you might need to fill he hole in the rubber grommet, where the cable comes out under the Tailgate Flap, with some sealant.
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Reassemble the Tailgate Flap and then go to the engine bay and place the two Battery Compartment Covers back on and your ready to go.
[COLOR=Sienna]THIS KIT IS MANUFACTURED IN AUSTRALIA AND SUPPLIED BY
TRAXIDE TRONICS
TRAXIDE (http://www.traxide.com.au)