View Full Version : 4" lift???
2 rocks
3rd September 2008, 07:33 PM
Ummm
Well I have nearly finished the metamorphosis of my Wrangler from "Mall Crawler" to rock crawler and have to say I am well pleased.
Trouble is Larry, A.K.A. 2Rocks, now looks a bit small with his 2" lift and 31's. The Jeep's 4.5" lift was achieved by entirely throwing away the stock suspension and control arms and fitting a Long Arm kit to keep good on-road manners and the wheel base as it should be. And I learned a lot about slip yoke eliminators, pinion angles, diff ratios and so on.
But what about a D2?
What's involved in a 4-4.5" lift for a D2, who makes kits, are there replacement control arms, extended brake lines (and ABS lines?) etc, etc off the shelf?
To fit 33's on the Jeep all I had to do was change the flares, but I'm thinking the angle grinder is going to have to come out for Larry?
Any musings on this gratefully accepted!
Cheers
Mike
Slunnie
3rd September 2008, 07:50 PM
With the D2 there will be many similarities in what needs to be changed with a 4" lift, though there is not nearly the amount of aftermarket gear available for it compared to the Wrangler.
The D2 wont need long arms kits as the radius arms are already significantly longer than the jeep units, but I suspect that they'll be shorter than the long arm kits. No no need for slip yolk eliminators. Because the suspension has been setup with radius arms, there isn't a lot to go in terms of setting up castor or pinion angles as it is what it is. The Jeep being a 5link does allow this to be changes, but its a different game. The D2 castor is good enough for 4", over that I wouldn't put money on it at all.
33's will fit without a guard cut, but thats the limits before the angle grinder comes out.
The closest you might get to a kit is the one from Rovertym in the US which is marketed as the RTE 3". Apparently it comes up taller though. Actually they have a lot of good gear for the D2, but but dont forget to include shipping into the price.
rte product page (http://www.rovertym.com/suspensionkit.htm)
This is how I did mine (4"). Note that it is a stiff touring setup though, not a high flex design, but it still does flex well. This is worth a read.
www.slunnie.com :: View topic - 4" lift with ACE (http://www.slunnie.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php't=6&sid=8c009535ecdcacbf794e3d2987a62e18)
Also, there is a fella Shane in QLD who is developing a similar high flex lift, though its still in the prototyping stage and wont be ready for a while yet.
If you can get your head around it all, it may also be worth designing your own.
McDisco
3rd September 2008, 07:52 PM
33's will fit on a D2 with a 2inch lift. Might have a little scrubbing but nothing major to worry about.
That said I have been toying with the idea of a 4 inch lift myself...
Angus
2 rocks
3rd September 2008, 08:01 PM
Slunnie, you are a legend as always, thank you - I will follow the links and get reading!
I had a feeling there might not be as much "off the shelf" stuff.
McDisco - it's an evil thing when it bites!
Cheers
Mike
McDisco
3rd September 2008, 08:09 PM
McDisco - it's an evil thing when it bites!
Preachin to the converted brother!! :D Can I get an AHHH-MAN?!:angel:
Angus
Slunnie
3rd September 2008, 08:21 PM
AHHH-MAN and HALLELUJAH!:banana:
:lol2:
2 rocks
3rd September 2008, 08:29 PM
PTL brothers!
That's >>> Praise The Lift! LOLl!
Ahh-man!!!
McDisco
3rd September 2008, 09:24 PM
Can I get a witness-sah??! I gotta testa-fy! I have the landy 4wding devil in me! :twisted:
Angus
cooter
4th September 2008, 12:44 AM
just a hint 80 series front std coils are eqivelent to 2.5-3 inch lift in a disco
i use 4 inch lifted 80s fronts all round;)
MickG
4th September 2008, 07:15 AM
The 4" lift is like the holy grail for me........been considering it for so long but still need to get mu head around what is actually involved before getting started.
Currently have a 2" lify with 33" tyres and get slight rubbing at full lock and ful compression.
Cooter, is it a D1 or 2 you have as the D2 has different size coils front and back I think?
Aye, Mick
2 rocks
4th September 2008, 03:18 PM
Hi Slunnie
So from what I read, you're running mainly 33x10.5?
I guess I had been thinking that I would probably look at 33x12.5 Pro Comps or STT's (as I have on the Jeep) but it seems the issue is more the width rather than height that necessitates the guard cutting at these sizes (as in for steering lock rather than running out of up-travel)?
In which case 10.5 will do...
Cheers
Mike
cooter
4th September 2008, 04:44 PM
sorry yeah i have a d1
Slunnie
4th September 2008, 06:26 PM
Hi Slunnie
So from what I read, you're running mainly 33x10.5?
I guess I had been thinking that I would probably look at 33x12.5 Pro Comps or STT's (as I have on the Jeep) but it seems the issue is more the width rather than height that necessitates the guard cutting at these sizes (as in for steering lock rather than running out of up-travel)?
In which case 10.5 will do...
Cheers
Mike
Gday Mike,
I've run a few sizes under there. 255/85-16 (Cooper ST, Cooper STT), 285/75-16 (Goodyear MTR, Pirelli ATR) and 33x10.5-16 (Simex JT2). With trimmed guards I also run 34x11.5-16 (Simex JT2). The 34x11.5's measured 35.2" in diameter in the middle of the treadface, and through the bag on 8" rims measured 300mm on the dot. Based on this, I'm going to guess that you could run 305/70-16 (16" rim equiv of a 33x12.5) but I'm not putting money on it. That width will also be very tight with the rear window wiper. The 285's (33x11.5-16) will lose just the smallest amount of steering lock but is a really good fit.
Slunnie
4th September 2008, 06:30 PM
The 4" lift is like the holy grail for me........been considering it for so long but still need to get mu head around what is actually involved before getting started.
Currently have a 2" lify with 33" tyres and get slight rubbing at full lock and ful compression.
Cooter, is it a D1 or 2 you have as the D2 has different size coils front and back I think?
Aye, Mick
The spring length differences are because the lower perches on the D2 are a different depth compared to the D1. When you run the LC springs, the lower perches have to be inverted and they retain the spring like a cup, rather than like a hat - so it probably wont make any difference. The only prob that there may be that I can see without having tried it, is if the D2 lower shock mounts interfere with the LC coil.
2 rocks
4th September 2008, 11:02 PM
Gday Mike,
I've run a few sizes under there. 255/85-16 (Cooper ST, Cooper STT), 285/75-16 (Goodyear MTR, Pirelli ATR) and 33x10.5-16 (Simex JT2). With trimmed guards I also run 34x11.5-16 (Simex JT2). The 34x11.5's measured 35.2" in diameter in the middle of the treadface, and through the bag on 8" rims measured 300mm on the dot. Based on this, I'm going to guess that you could run 305/70-16 (16" rim equiv of a 33x12.5) but I'm not putting money on it. That width will also be very tight with the rear window wiper. The 285's (33x11.5-16) will lose just the smallest amount of steering lock but is a really good fit.
Thanks Slunnie
Making notes as I go!
Re: the rear window wiper - I can barely fit a sheet of paper between my 31" ST and the bumper now - hadn't thought about the wiper. I see you inverted the tyre carrier - does it go straight back on upside down? Could it be spaced out with nylon bushes to give more clearance?
Be nice to see an aftermarket rear bar with a tyre "scallop"...
Cheers
Mike
Redback
5th September 2008, 07:25 AM
Thanks Slunnie
Making notes as I go!
Re: the rear window wiper - I can barely fit a sheet of paper between my 31" ST and the bumper now - hadn't thought about the wiper. I see you inverted the tyre carrier - does it go straight back on upside down? Could it be spaced out with nylon bushes to give more clearance?
Be nice to see an aftermarket rear bar with a tyre "scallop"...
Cheers
Mike
Invert the rear wheel carrier, you'll need too drill 2 extra holes in the carrier to re-attach it too the door, it's a 10min job:D
Baz.
2 rocks
5th September 2008, 11:18 AM
Invert the rear wheel carrier, you'll need too drill 2 extra holes in the carrier to re-attach it too the door, it's a 10min job:D
Baz.
Cool :)
Thanks Baz!
Cheers
Mike
mrapocalypse
9th September 2008, 10:40 AM
OH WHAT AN EVIL THREAD THIS IS!!!!!!!!
You all make it sound EASY and SO MUCH FUN.....
Anyway..... Slunnie, with the smaller tyres, and the 4.11 diffs how do you find the revs, it would be revving lower but only by a few percent........ I miss the torque from my original tyre size, I moved up to 31", want to go to 32 inch tyres and was tossing up whether or not to get 4.11's. Sorry if this is a Hijack....
Slunnie
9th September 2008, 05:12 PM
OH WHAT AN EVIL THREAD THIS IS!!!!!!!!
You all make it sound EASY and SO MUCH FUN.....
Anyway..... Slunnie, with the smaller tyres, and the 4.11 diffs how do you find the revs, it would be revving lower but only by a few percent........ I miss the torque from my original tyre size, I moved up to 31", want to go to 32 inch tyres and was tossing up whether or not to get 4.11's. Sorry if this is a Hijack....
After its been done then its all easy. :D
With the 33's and 4.11's all of the gearing goes back to standard again, so it doesn't make any difference there. I guess if you want to get really technical then there may be some differences in rolling resistance and all of that, but it drives well. With the Simex on, the change is about 5% IIRC, or something similar so the change isn't all that great. Running the Simex is a big change though.
When I first went to 33's I was running the standard diff gears and with the auto it was ok. The economy wasn't nearly as regular though, fluctuating a bit, both up and down. I think it is more the people that have manuals that feel the difference with bigger tyres.
As a side note, if you do change the diff gears to 4.11 and have a manual then you will lose your cruise control unless you correct the speedo. When the speedo is corrected though, it needs to be corrected to suit the diff gears and not the tyre diameter. With the auto it is all good and you can adjust the speedo to suit the tyres with the CC unaffected.
grover7488
10th September 2008, 04:01 PM
with regards to the cc and losing it with a manual with 4.11s.
Does it matter if it is a V8 or TD5?
Slunnie
10th September 2008, 08:33 PM
with regards to the cc and losing it with a manual with 4.11s.
Does it matter if it is a V8 or TD5?
Good question, I didn't think that it mattered which engine you had........ but I'm not 100% as I had not made the engine comparison - just the transmissions. I'm pretty sure this applies to both the TD5 and V8 though.
2 rocks
11th September 2008, 07:13 PM
OH WHAT AN EVIL THREAD THIS IS!!!!!!!!
Yes, Mr A, so bad - it's goooood! :twisted:
So, in figuring out my shopping list (and how long it's going to take me to get there :( ), in no particular order I need:
-to flip the rear wheel carrier (do the rear door hinges cope ok with a 33"?)
-Bilstein shocks (as described by Slunnie w/mods)
-Lovells springs (as described by slunnie)
-swaybar discos
-disco mudflaps (cos Mr Plod likes mudflaps)
-extended brake lines
-extended ABS lines
-Truespeed (the 31's already have the speedo reading about 7 kmh slow)
-4.11 ratios
-5 x 33's
What have I forgotten?
Cheers
Mike
Slunnie
11th September 2008, 07:30 PM
Bumpstop extensions to suit the longer closed length on the shocks, Spacers for the front Xmember under the propshaft. The mudflaps will be ok.
You may also want to consider running longer front ACE swaybar links on the rear to increase the midcorner and braking stability - these require 50mm (instead of about 30mm) bumpstops on the rear to fit them, but definately worth while.
Also clearance the lower rear watts linkage mount slightly to suit.
The door hinges are not a problem. Periodically check the spare tyre carrier for cracking around the tyre bolts.
cucinadio
24th September 2008, 02:20 PM
just a hint 80 series front std coils are eqivelent to 2.5-3 inch lift in a disco
i use 4 inch lifted 80s fronts all round;)
Hi Cooter,
is that for a d1 or a d2...and what shocks did you add to those...anything els you had to do ??
dylan gover
25th September 2008, 09:24 PM
Gday Mike,
I've run a few sizes under there. 255/85-16 (Cooper ST, Cooper STT), 285/75-16 (Goodyear MTR, Pirelli ATR) and 33x10.5-16 (Simex JT2). With trimmed guards I also run 34x11.5-16 (Simex JT2). The 34x11.5's measured 35.2" in diameter in the middle of the treadface, and through the bag on 8" rims measured 300mm on the dot. Based on this, I'm going to guess that you could run 305/70-16 (16" rim equiv of a 33x12.5) but I'm not putting money on it. That width will also be very tight with the rear window wiper. The 285's (33x11.5-16) will lose just the smallest amount of steering lock but is a really good fit.
were u runing 8inch rims with the 255 85 16s
Slunnie
25th September 2008, 09:58 PM
were u runing 8inch rims with the 255 85 16s
I ran the 255/85-16 and 33x10.5-16's on factory 16x7's and the 285/75-16 and 34x11.5-16 on factory 16x8's.
Although they will probably go on, I'm pretty sure the 255/85-16's are generally only approved by the manufacturers to run on 7" rims (for a D2 option)
DassaW
26th September 2008, 10:06 AM
2rocks,
I am shipping some stuff over from rovertym for a few of us very soon, makes postage heaps cheaper. ;) Let me know if your interested, I figure your still in research mode though.
cheers
Darren
2 rocks
27th September 2008, 09:30 AM
Hi Darren
Thanks for the offer and that would be the way to go, but I've got to get the $$ together for it (although thankfully the D2 should be lots cheaper than the Jeep - don't have to replace control arms etc) so can't do a lot right now.
Cheers and thanks again
Mike
HAK
29th October 2008, 06:29 PM
Do I hear another joining the club of the high flyers, yeah brother join the club
That’s 2 in a week, isn’t it, not bad? I’ve been down that road, brother Slunnie talk the truth and the words of wisdom some can say he is the massier of 4 inch lifts
Hell I converted from Islam :D:D;)
Slunnie
29th October 2008, 06:46 PM
Do I hear another joining the club of the high flyers, yeah brother join the club
That’s 2 in a week, isn’t it, not bad? I’ve been down that road, brother Slunnie talk the truth and the words of wisdom some can say he is the massier of 4 inch lifts
Hell I converted from Islam :D:D;)
:lol2:
Who are the two?
I know of 1 in the last week that has been veeeeery quiet about it. I think the Lovells has just released another batch of the springs.:D
Jezzaol
29th October 2008, 07:25 PM
HI All,
Just to throw a spanner in the works, I have been designing for quite a while to convert my D1 to Air Suspension using 2" Raised 80 Ser Landcrusier front bags all around ! Giving me an adjustable ride Height from about 3"-5"
I have got all or most of the parts and about to start the fitment !, so i'm interested in people's thoughts on Pro,s & Con's, I have sold aftermarket kits for the likes of cruisers and patrols for years and more than happy with the quality & durability of after market Airbags.
I have already fitted the twin needle twin gauge set into my dash pod and have the 4 up and down switch's ready to go into my switch panel on the opposite side to ash Tray, mounted twin compressors under the passenger seat and have a 2 liter air tank fitted under the drivers seat ! I have brought some quad front shock towers to get around the front shock problem and the air bags will almost fit straight in front and rear !
I all ready run 35" Tyres with 3" lifted coils and scorpion racing evo dislocation kit and 4.11 CW&P Sets. My aim is to gain roughly the same height for Highway driving and have more lift with off road !
I would be interested in any comments and I'm also interested in knowing if I should install some QT Racing front radius arms with this lift and If so what Degree ??? 3 or 5 ?? Does anyone know of other problems I may get ?
I have not been particularly happy with the scorpion racing stuff especially in the front ! Hence the change !
Cheers
Jeremy
Bush65
29th October 2008, 08:50 PM
I like the idea of airbags and the adjustable height they can give. They have a lot of advantages if set-up correctly (depending what you want the vehicle for.
I'm not keen on castor correction radius arms though and they would offer little advantage if you have adjustable ride height - so no need to correct castor if running near standard height for highway use. I also don't like the manufacture of QT radius arms.
I would use a larger air receiver - 2l seems far too small for me, but then you may not be looking at frequent or great height change.
I don't know anything about the 80 series bags - I assume they are for a conversion kit.
Jezzaol
29th October 2008, 08:59 PM
I'm not keen on castor correction radius arms though and they would offer little advantage if you have adjustable ride height - so no need to correct castor if running near standard height for highway use. I also don't like the manufacture of QT radius arms.
Yes I agree but with 35" tyres even at my lower adjustment I will be at least 3" lift ?? Hence the thought of castor correction ? What do you think of scorpion radius arms ? and whats the problem with QT ?
I would use a larger air receiver - 2l seems far too small for me, but then you may not be looking at frequent or great height change.
Sorry I just checked and its 2 Galon, and I do have twin pumps puting out 90LPM.
I don't know anything about the 80 series bags - I assume they are for a conversion kit.
Yes they are Aftermarket conversion bags, the reason I am using them is they are the right diameter (as per earlier post regarding cruiser front coils in Disco's !, and give me more height for my particular requirements over P38 style bags !
Cheers for your help !
HAK
30th October 2008, 10:59 AM
:lol2:
Who are the two?
I know of 1 in the last week that has been veeeeery quiet about it. I think the Lovells has just released another batch of the springs.:D
This dude that started the post and Jim bob my imaginary friend:D;):p:D
Bush65
30th October 2008, 07:13 PM
... Yes I agree but with 35" tyres even at my lower adjustment I will be at least 3" lift ?? Hence the thought of castor correction ? What do you think of scorpion radius arms ? and whats the problem with QT ? ...
The main reason I don't like castor correction radius arms is they rotate the diff pinion down. The way that the u-joints are phased in the front driveshaft of disco I and rrc leads to problems. A d.c. driveshaft won't help, because the diff pinion needs to be aligned with the driveshaft.
The QT and scorpion arms are much lighter construction than stock radius arms, and from reports on UK forums, it appears there were issues with poor quality welding in the past.
The best way to correct castor is to rotate the swivels and keep the pinion angled up for the driveshaft.
Slunnie
30th October 2008, 10:23 PM
This dude that started the post and Jim bob my imaginary friend:D;):p:D
Very nice! :D
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