View Full Version : clutch connecting tube alighnment
mad pom
6th September 2008, 11:26 AM
Hi All:p
I need help (dont we all)
Just put the gearbox back into the 2a shorty and when putting all the bits on I get to the Clutch slave shaft going into the connecting tube that comes out of the bell housing, problem being is the pin hole on the tube is horizontal instead of vertical as in the manual and wont line up with the Clutch slave shaft:(
What the hell have i done wrong??.......do I have to pull the bloody box out again:mad::mad:
Any help will put you on my Christmas mailing list:D
Cheers
Ray
very Mad Pom
Blknight.aus
6th September 2008, 01:42 PM
use a piece of tiewire and haul up on the arm driven by the slave cylinder and tie it up. then grab the shaft that pokes out of the box with the needle nose pliers and grab the shaft then rotate it clockwise when viewed from the side...
chances are that it will overshoot correct alignment and thats ok, just let it ride back a little and then drop the pin in screw it up, bleed the clutch, remove the wire and it should all be good.
did you replace the clutch plates? if you did and youve used the wrong pressure plate then you dont have enough throw on the throwout to get it to disengage and the mechanism has overshot already.
take the inspection plate off of the top of the bell housing and have a look at what the throw out is doing.if you can rotate the shaft all the way forwards and it doesnt obviosly and definatively stick on the throw out fingers (or 3 levers if you have an original 2a clutch) then you need to pull it out and reset the clutch + the throw out....
Rangier Rover
6th September 2008, 07:46 PM
use a piece of tiewire and haul up on the arm driven by the slave cylinder and tie it up. then grab the shaft that pokes out of the box with the needle nose pliers and grab the shaft then rotate it clockwise when viewed from the side...
chances are that it will overshoot correct alignment and thats ok, just let it ride back a little and then drop the pin in screw it up, bleed the clutch, remove the wire and it should all be good.
did you replace the clutch plates? if you did and youve used the wrong pressure plate then you dont have enough throw on the throwout to get it to disengage and the mechanism has overshot already.
take the inspection plate off of the top of the bell housing and have a look at what the throw out is doing.if you can rotate the shaft all the way forwards and it doesnt obviosly and definatively stick on the throw out fingers (or 3 levers if you have an original 2a clutch) then you need to pull it out and reset the clutch + the throw out....
Your spot on there. This happened to me when I done my Ser 11a when I was only 16. It was the arm overshot:( The darn thing is still going and I'm 41 now.
Tony
mad pom
7th September 2008, 05:56 PM
Dave
You're a lifesaver......replaced the throwout bearing and thought I'ld put the shaft back in wrong......will give it a go on my next days off, Thanks mate!:D:D
Tony
Very encouraging, hope it works for me.:)
Ray
Aaron IIA
8th September 2008, 10:24 PM
You may have put the fork in the incorrect position on the spline. The manual is quite particular about this process. If twisting the shaft is still going to operate the clutch, it might be easier to make a new connecting tube, drilling the two holes in a new alignment that suits your application.
Aaron.
JDNSW
9th September 2008, 06:56 AM
You may have put the fork in the incorrect position on the spline. The manual is quite particular about this process. If twisting the shaft is still going to operate the clutch, it might be easier to make a new connecting tube, drilling the two holes in a new alignment that suits your application.
Aaron.
Or drill new holes in the existing tube - but I think this is hardened (which means a replacement should be), and also, having the hole in a different orientation may make it hard to get the pin in - its hard enough anyway!
John
mad pom
9th September 2008, 09:16 AM
Thanks John/AAron
Ive tried what Dave suggested but the tube dosnt want to budge:mad:, Drilling a new hole in the tube sounds like it could be the go but can't see how i can get the tube off due to the internal pin/split pin.
AAron, you're probable right, it sounds like not aligning the fork on the spline.......at least I didnt have all the floors/seats back in. Jeese i love my old girl but she frustrates the hell out of me......Any other suggestions are more than welcome:D:D
Ray
Aaron IIA
9th September 2008, 05:35 PM
All of the original tubes that I have seen are made from an oversized tube, squished down either end at 90deg to the other. this would suggest that they were mild. The squishing down allows a flat spot for the hole to be drilled through. It would be near impossible to drill new holes at different angles, as these would now be on the sharp radius of the squish, rather than on the flats. I made my new one from a piece of tube that better suited the shaft to overcome the problem of hole misalignment.
mad pom
9th September 2008, 07:23 PM
Cheers Aaron,
How did you get the tube out?, I havent removed the rubber yet but cant imagine being able to get to the other split pin:( I dont remember removing the Spline from the fork so could it be something else?
Cheers
Ray
Aaron IIA
10th September 2008, 10:40 AM
I don't have the rubber anymore. With no rubber, you can with difficulty get to the other pin, using long nose pliers.
Did you change the pressure plate? If it is the three lever type, did you properly adjust it? Have you adjusteed the length of the slave push rod?
Aaron.
mad pom
10th September 2008, 04:46 PM
Hi Aaron,
Would be too scared of dropping abit into the bell housing (clumsy fingers) :( Didnt change the clutch pressure plate, just the throwout bearing (noisy) and oil seal, (leaking) Havent adjusted the rod as I cant even attach the bloody thing, still the same length as when i took it off.....Not looking good, I am however becoming an expert at removing the Box:D:D
Cherrs
Ray
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