Best Ball Splitting Tool

[TeZZaP]

Hi guys, I'm just about to take apart the steering on my reno project - all the joints look stuffed and I need to take the front axle apart anyway... I've never used any ball joint splitters, are any better than others (if your humble opinions of course!)?

TeZZa

[isuzurover]

The best (quickest and most effective) method is 2 big lump hammers.

Hold one firmly against one side (or the arm) and give the opposite side a whack. The joint should pop out.

Other than that:
The fork type works OK, but damages the rubbers - fine if you are replacing them.

The puller type is preferable to the fork type, but harder to find and/or more $$$

[TeZZaP]

Don't you stand a chance of fracturing the metal by whacking it with a large hammer?

[eckolsim]

my wife ....... :D

[hodgo]

The best (quickest and most effective) method is 2 big lump hammers.

Hold one firmly against one side (or the arm) and give the opposite side a whack. The joint should pop out.

Other than that:
The fork type works OK, but damages the rubbers - fine if you are replacing them.

The puller type is preferable to the fork type, but harder to find and/or more $$$
__________________________________________________ ____________

Teppaz, I have used this method for years taught by army workshops
never had a problem, but them I am only a back yard mechanic.

Hodgo

[wovenrovings]

I have found a tie rod end remover at Super cheap that does the job. It is chinese quality cast but they made it so thick there is no problem. $20 when i got mine. Don't have a pic but it is a scissor arrangement about 100mm long with one side having a fork to go under the rubber and socket to press on the thread. The other end has a bolt that forces the scissor to close.
Easy to use by yourself.
Doesn't damage the rubbers either. I found that to get on the ends on the county it needed a little adjustment with the grinder because the thread on the rod ends was so long. Other than that it was all good. Its done about 10 now.
Hope this is helpfull.
Dan.

[Boxhead63]

best ball splitting tool?.......My wifes right boot, when i've been playing up.

[dobbo]

my wife ....... :D

Are we married to the same woman?

[Boxhead63]

Sounds like it dobbo and she was missing for awhile. Sounds like you and i have the same sort of head as well.

[TeZZaP]

Hmm, I might try it with hammers... and then go buy the tool!

I do have some spares that I can try whacking, so even if I trash anything no harm done.

I should have added to my OP 'no wife comments', you guys picked up and ran with that one! :D

Thanks all for your comments

[isuzurover]

Hmm, I might try it with hammers... and then go buy the tool!

I do have some spares that I can try whacking, so even if I trash anything no harm done.

I should have added to my OP 'no wife comments', you guys picked up and ran with that one! :D

Thanks all for your comments

As with Hodgo, I have used the method for years with no problems. Steering arms are VERY good quality steel, and you are applying a compressive force from both sides. Baqsically all you are doing is (very slightly) distorting the hole so the tapered TRE/ball joint pops out.

MANY mechanics (backyard or otherwise) use this method.

[Blknight.aus]

undo the nut enough so that its level with the end of the thread so you dont damage it
jack up under it with just enough force that it starts to lift the wheel (not much, juuust enough)

got it with the hammers as previously described. 90% of the time this works

when that doesnt work, heat it up with your 2400w hot air gun (wifes hair drier on steroids) then whack it again. 95% of the remaining ones let go now

if that doesnt work, pour diesel on it, leave it sit for half a day heat it up again and then whack it... that'll get it. (this works for 95% of the 5% that the previous 95% of the 10% that was left over from the first 90%)

for the last one, unbolt the steering arm and take it to someone with a orta power press or a hydraulic press.

[MinniTheMoocha]

undo the nut enough so that its level with the end of the thread so you dont damage it
jack up under it with just enough force that it starts to lift the wheel (not much, juuust enough)

got it with the hammers as previously described. 90% of the time this works


Tried it still would not budge.


when that doesnt work, heat it up with your 2400w hot air gun (wifes hair drier on steroids) then whack it again. 95% of the remaining ones let go now


Tried that too and still would not budge


if that doesnt work, pour diesel on it, leave it sit for half a day heat it up again and then whack it... that'll get it. (this works for 95% of the 5% that the previous 95% of the 10% that was left over from the first 90%)


Didn't have the time to wait



for the last one, unbolt the steering arm and take it to someone with a orta power press or a hydraulic press.

Cost in time an money is more than the supercrap tie rod remove which worked first go.

Perfect for $20

[mcrover]

Im not a fan of any ball joint removal tool which pushes on the thread as they can easilly peen over and then your cutting it out regardless of the tools you use.

The hammer meathod has only failed me once and that was on a ball jont which hadnt been moved since the 1940's when the tractor was built that it was on.

The meathod that I use is this.

I jack up the vehicle, I block up the tie rod or what ever the ball joint is connected to with a block of wood to put a little pressure on it the way you want it to go.

Loosen the nut a couple of turns.

Hit the side of the steering arm (or bush etc) that the pin is fitted to with a sharp strong solid hit (sometimes you need to use a drift or pin punch to direct the force) and normally this will release the ball joint.

If it doesnt then the next thing I reach for is the Loctite Freeze spray.

The last resort is the Oxy.

I do have ball joint splitters, the fork type and the press type but I find the simple hammer is quicker and easier to use if done properly.

The forks work but as mentioned damages the boots and Ive explained why I dont like the press type ones but I got it with a heap of other fittings which I use and I have done a ball joint with it and it did work but is fiddly.

[rovercare]

Cost in time an money is more than the supercrap tie rod remove which worked first go.

Perfect for $20

I use these to, been through 2 in about 8 years, hate to know how many they'd seperated but:eek:, keep in mind, you fit the splitter, wind it up to tension, then sharp solid hits with a hammer/dolly held one side and a decent size hammer the other;)

The splitter is NOT made to do the job on its lonesome:angrylock:

This is THE easiest way:wasntme: