300Tdi head gasket oil leak

[TonyC]

Hi All,
I have a 95 300Tdi 130 that leaks oil like a, well like a Land Rover.

Today I started to try and work out were it's coming from and one of the places looks like the head gasket at the back of the motor.

I gave it a good clean down and after moving it back to it's normal parking spot (about a 1 minute run) there is definite line of oil there.

I'll take it for a longer run tomorrow and see what it looks like.

Is this a plausible failure mode for the head gasket?

If it is the head gasket any words of wisdom (other than follow the book) for someone who hasn't been this deep in an engine in 15 years.

Thanks

Tony

[mcrover]

It is possible as early 300TDI came out with a normal head gasket where as the later ones got a steel shim instead which is less likely to blow.

I havnt heard of one leaking oil because of the head gasket though Im sure that it would be possible, they do have a lot of issues with the PCV cyclone thingy on the drivers side of the head as well as the rocker cover gaskets leak.

[Blknight.aus]

double check the rocker cover gasket first.

[DassaW]

If it does happen to be the head gasket, I found this useful article that shows how to remove the 300tdi head.

300TDI cylinder head removal - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum (http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php'showtopic=8179)

Mine is leaking oil from somewhere there too, I should really get motivated like you and do something about it.

Cheers

Darren

[TonyC]

It's definitely between the head and block.
It had a very leaky rocker cover when I bought it and that has been fixed, the head is clean. The sides and back of the motor was covered in oil. I think it is also leaking at the vac pump, possibly the lift pump and I'm sure the hose that runs down from the rocker to what I think is the the top of the oil filter housing.

Tony

[MacFamily]

Could also be the Manifold gasket mine was leaking alot till I changed it. Its a ongoing battle leaks on a 300tdi Iam slowly getting rid of mine, I now have to fix the last one Injector Pump :o.
Goodluck Azza...

[mcrover]

It's definitely between the head and block.
It had a very leaky rocker cover when I bought it and that has been fixed, the head is clean. The sides and back of the motor was covered in oil. I think it is also leaking at the vac pump, possibly the lift pump and I'm sure the hose that runs down from the rocker to what I think is the the top of the oil filter housing.

Tony

Do yourself a favour and change the O ring in the cyclone thing as it can run down the bottom of the head if it's leaking from there.

Sounds to be the wrong side to be manifold gaskets.

Really it is most likely that O ring which is the problem and as it only costs a few cents you have nothing to lose.

[TonyC]

Do yourself a favour and change the O ring in the cyclone thing as it can run down the bottom of the head if it's leaking from there.

Sounds to be the wrong side to be manifold gaskets.

Really it is most likely that O ring which is the problem and as it only costs a few cents you have nothing to lose.

I'll do that.
But the the oil that's concerning me is at the back of the motor, not on the side near the back, but the far end of no. four cylinder, the firewall end of the motor, under the pipe that runs from the air cleaner to the turbo.

Tony

[TonyC]

Well the leak was coming from round the left hand rear head bolt, I could see the odd little bubble coming out.

I've taken the head off and can see no obvious reason why it was leaking, so a few questions before the head goes back on.

1) The no.1 inlet valve has a small amount of carbon built up on and around it, nothing else does, any idea why? Leaking stem seal?

2) Should the head be machined or just checked for flatness?

3) Should the head be pressure or crack tested?

4) Should i worry about checking the block and if so what sort of straight edge will I need, a piece of steel bar or RHS with one side machined? or does it need to be more accurate then that?

Thanks for all the input.

Tony

[Bush65]

I would get the head skimmed if it is not flat, even though Land Rover says they can't be skimmed (I and others have done so in the past). Remember to check that the depth from head surface to face of valves is within spec.

What was the tension in the bolts like when you loosened them? - were some much easier than others to undo? All should have been hard to undo.

If so, it may have been overheated at some time - I have seen reports that this can lead to local softening and continuing problems with bolt tensions in those areas.

[TonyC]

I would get the head skimmed if it is not flat, even though Land Rover says they can't be skimmed (I and others have done so in the past). Remember to check that the depth from head surface to face of valves is within spec.

I'll go and have a talk to the local engine machinist about checking it for flatness and or skimming.


What was the tension in the bolts like when you loosened them? - were some much easier than others to undo? All should have been hard to undo.

They were all so tight that I was worried about busting the 1/2 drive socket and landing on my ass. Some I could crack with just the breaker bar some needed a length of pipe as well.


If so, it may have been overheated at some time - I have seen reports that this can lead to local softening and continuing problems with bolt tensions in those areas.

I can only assume the head was cooked sometime early in it's life as the head is marked 5/95, I assume a casting date, and the 130 has a feb 95 build date.

Thanks

Tony