new to the d2 world

[cpt howdy]

Hi everyone. A few months back I bought my first Disco, a 1999 D2 with 152000kms on the clock. It looked to be in good condition all round apart from a minor oil leak. On the way home after making the purchase a few warning lights popped up on the dash. After a quick net search I found out what they were, the three amigos, DAMN!!:mad: Oh well I said I can put up with them. Then whilst travelling up the F3 I felt a vibration, only the road I said, then BANG!! I pulled over to find the front shaft had gone and smacked a big hole in the side of the gearbox, NRMA HELP!!! SO now im home with a vehicle that wont go. Thank god for used car warranty. Sourced a reco box from All 4x4 spares and had it freighted to the the repairer. Got the thing back and found it had a vibration at around 100k's per hour. So not living to far from Mannell motors I put it in for an inspection, all good was the verdict apart from the tailshaft, recommended a new one. The car yard came to the party and back to Mannell to have it installed. Now the vibration is still there but only minor, Does anyone know of this or how to fix it. Also the guys at mannell spoke to a Landy specialist and they said there is a air con drainage hose just above the tailshaft and this drainage causes the tailshaft problems, has anyone else heard of this. I love the thing and will put up with all the faults just need a heads up on a few things.:D

[Psimpson7]

Welcome.

I think the aircon drain is above the DC joint on the front shaft, not the tail shaft.

Rgds
Pete

[cpt howdy]

ok my mistake thanks have you heard of this before and how about the vibrations. Im new to this

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Welcome Capt Howdy:D

you were lucky with the warranty!!:eek:

you dont say if its a petrol or diesel,,

the diesels have a tendency to break engine mounts,,

there are a few D2's running around with strange vibrations,, maybe a quick search?

[cpt howdy]

its a v8 auto petrol, I am going to try a steering damper other than that I dont know what it could be, I have checked the engine mounts they seem fine.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

all the normal things like,,
all the tyres match,
are balanced(and havent thrown a weight), aligned,
?

[Graeme]

The vibration could be a faulty/worn-out rubber coupling on the rear tailshaft.

You would do well to have the unis in the double cardon joint in the front tailshaft replaced with greasable ones if they haven't been done already, as that's the biggest cause of failure. A/C moisture dripping on the joint is just 1 way of moisture getting into it - driving on wet roads is another!

[cpt howdy]

The front shaft is now a brand new one with new cardon joints, I am in the process of trying to extend drainage point so wont drip on shaft, I have been doing alot of reading here and seems a new rubber donut might do the trick. I am going to put a 2" lift on it and do castor correctors and steering damper aswell. The 2 front tyres are the same and the 2 rear are the same with even wear on them. The wheels are balanced, might be out of alignment, having that done on Friday. Thanks to all with ideas for me, any others are much appreciated.:)

[Ricey]

I'm in the same boat Cpt H. I'm getting driveline vibes between 95-110 kph after replacing front propshaft, injector harness, engine mounts, both diffs, sway bar links & bushes and tightening the muffler heat shield. Next step is to put it on a dyno next service & try to locate the problem that way.

[astormsau]

mine makes a weird vibration noise at about 2700rpm which is consistent with engine rpm... dont feel anything so much as hear it...

[cpt howdy]

Ricey let us know how you go, when I get some more cash im going back to mannell motors to get them to check the donut thing. Will let all know how I get on.

[nice1guv]

Ricey let us know how you go, when I get some more cash im going back to mannell motors to get them to check the donut thing. Will let all know how I get on.

The 'donut' thing or rubber coupling is easy to inspect yourself.
Just slide under the car with a torch and look closely at the rubber coupling between the rear propshaft and the rear diff.
You're looking for cracking or splitting in the rubber, especially around the bolt holes.

If the rubber is split, this may be causing the vibrations.

I recently replaced mine as the rubber was split in a few places and looked quite old.
I had slight vibrations particluarly under acceleration.
Replaced it and wholla! no more vibrations!

A new one costs around $80-$100.

[green_disco]

Ricey let us know how you go, when I get some more cash im going back to mannell motors to get them to check the donut thing. Will let all know how I get on.


Cpt Howdy. Next time you go to Mannell Motors, keep driving around the corner to the end of the cul-de-sac and look for Green Light. Speak to Carl - he is a LR mechanic unlike Mannell's who specialise mainly in Nissan and Toyotas.

[trev]

The aircon drains can be a problem,they can and do depending on how the car is parked drip onto the carden joints, and on the other side the gearbox selector switch.

the fix is simple.get some beverage tubing,I think about 12mm Diam.and ram it up into the drain holes on both sides.It does not matter even if it is not a good fit,the water will naturally run along the tube on the outside,or if a good fit down the middle.
Cut the tubes off down lower than the universal and switch and fasten with cable ties to the tranmission oil pipes.
Problem solved!

Trev.

[Ricey]

Ricey let us know how you go, when I get some more cash im going back to mannell motors to get them to check the donut thing. Will let all know how I get on.

Will do Cpt! It may be a month or so before I take it in.

[cpt howdy]

I seem to have the vibrations sorted. After checking the donut and all was good, I went and had a wheel alignment, balance and rotation done and the vibrations have gone. Guess I will find out if the have gone at high speed next week when I go away for a few days. Thanks all for your help.

[ozscott]

Nice one matey - thing is as you say you do love them!!! Arrrgh!

Cheers

PS. Its been said before but well looked after with proper oil changes (diff and boxes too) and proper coolant (thats a biggie) and the things will just keep trucking except for some minor stuff - hopefully your 3 amigos is just down to a wheel sensor.

Cheers

[Redback]

The front shaft is now a brand new one with new cardon joints, I am in the process of trying to extend drainage point so wont drip on shaft, I have been doing alot of reading here and seems a new rubber donut might do the trick. I am going to put a 2" lift on it and do castor correctors and steering damper aswell. The 2 front tyres are the same and the 2 rear are the same with even wear on them. The wheels are balanced, might be out of alignment, having that done on Friday. Thanks to all with ideas for me, any others are much appreciated.:)

Apart from the fact you can't do a castor correction on a D2 IN THE NORMAL FASHION, D2s don't have swival balls, although there is place that does castor correction control arms for D2s, that's QT Services in the UK, BUT what ever you do DON'T get the castor correction bushes, they won't work on a D2.

You won't need to do a castor correction if only going 50mm/2", also unless your steering damper is stuffed, don't bother changing it, the standard damper is fine.

Baz.

[Ricey]

I got a call today from the mechanic after they had it on the dyno. The problem has been the rear tailshaft & the bit that the donut connects to. They're going to do away with the donut & replace it with a uni joint which I haven't yet looked into but from memory of a few posts here it's the way to go.