my little project for 08' 09'

[cucinadio]

it wont happen over night but "roam wasnt built in a day" :D

my new base has arrived at a starting cost of nada :D

the plan is to build a camper that can be utilized as a trailer when were not camping ...as my dad would say "a clatons trailer "...lol

will post the build as it comes along :D


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/88.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/89.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/532.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/09/90.jpg

cheers

[Disco_owner]

Hi cuciandio;

looks like your boy is enjoying this build too.

I'd also like to build something with a dual purpose , i played with the idea of building a camper trailer that I could use for travelling , and when not travelling it would be loaded with cr&p loads of firewood ,so it also needed to be build strong and will probably have to have brakes etc ,only because a friend has offered me unlimited supply of firewood down at his peoperty.:D

[cucinadio]

yhea that the idea...I'm not to keep on the idea of a trailer just sitting there when im not camping with it ...

hes a good kid mate he was telling me how and what we should do with it ...lol

cheers

[cucinadio]

OK here one for the trailer nuts ...or anyone that has an opinion really:D

as you can see in this pis the trailer has 16in rims and has good clearance at the mo ..the height with the sides and camper need to be at around 100cm for the camper sides when its on ..with 500mm high sides at current measurement's the camper top will fit perfect... and after mesurering...wit a leaf over it will be fine with 400mm sides ........so my current dilemma is...... should i go for some more clearance ...with a leaf over or leave it at the current height and go for 500mm sides ???;)

you can see in this pic
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/532.jpg
that it sits quite well behind the truck at the mo ....sooooo any advice would help the decision


cheers guys

[WildOne]

I think the answer is that you don't gain anything by having more clearance under your trailer than your tow vehicle has, unless of course the trailer has a long rear ovehang which would compromise your departure angle, also, the lower the centre of gravity on your trailer the better.

As long as there is similar, or slightly better clearance under your trailer with things like watertanks bolted underneath, as your tow vehicle, you"ll be fine.

[banjo]

I would go with the spring over. & take your tow hitch out & turn it over & the ball..that way you can fit a water tank under it & maybe some pvc pipe for your poles plus it will put your rear stabilizers higher so you dont rip them off like i did on my last trailer......

[cucinadio]

I would go with the spring over. & take your tow hitch out & turn it over & the ball..that way you can fit a water tank under it & maybe some pvc pipe for your poles plus it will put your rear stabilizers higher so you dont rip them off like i did on my last trailer......


just got a new trig hitch so it will sit a little higher on the front now anyway ....the stabilizer actually only just touch the ground now ...so l will have to either get longer ones or use some blocks ;) so make me think that the things high enough ;) but I'm really pondering

anyone else have an opinion ???...


cheers

[cucinadio]

hi guys,

l have Toyota split rims on at the mo ....wanting to change to land rover hubs to suit the rims l got of ron....there little wider then the ones i have on now....the axle is a 40mm square ...does anyone know where i can get the correct hubs ...not seem to get a hold of the right ones ..but lm prob looking for the wrong thing


cheers

[PhilipA]

Not to put a dampener on the whole thing but that is a dodgy looking chassis to start with. It appears to have a big bend at the front.
The size of the chassis is nothing like what you see for an offroad trailer.
The springs look too light for any weight, and already look rusty.

There are others who know more than this than me, but the chassis is the base that the trailer is built on and without a good one you are setting yourself up for heartbreak.
Regards Philip A

[cucinadio]

Not to put a dampener on the whole thing but that is a dodgy looking chassis to start with. It appears to have a big bend at the front.
The size of the chassis is nothing like what you see for an offroad trailer.
The springs look too light for any weight, and already look rusty.

There are others who know more than this than me, but the chassis is the base that the trailer is built on and without a good one you are setting yourself up for heartbreak.
Regards Philip A




yes i can in the pic what seems to be a a bend...as for the camper ..it was a cub style camper i the first place so I'm not sure what you mean..but thanks for the input mate

cheers

[roverrescue]

what bearings run on the current axle?
do you need braked hubs?

S

[PhilipA]

yes i can in the pic what seems to be a a bend...as for the camper ..it was a cub style camper i the first place so I'm not sure what you mean..but thanks for the input mate

Just remember that if it was a Cub they were a monocoque construction, ie the top was welded to the chassis and cross braces in the body braced the chassis and in fact form part of the chassis. If you put an open body on it like a box trailer it may not work.
I wondered what the castors were for.
Regards Philip A

[cucinadio]

Just remember that if it was a Cub they were a monocoque construction, ie the top was welded to the chassis and cross braces in the body braced the chassis and in fact form part of the chassis. If you put an open body on it like a box trailer it may not work.
I wondered what the castors were for.
Regards Philip A

mate the floor will be checker plate steel welded to the chassie ..we will also be bracing the frame some more from the sides into about half way up the draw bar.. casters? well you see there to stop the trailer from tipping when your sleeping :p...no really l don't know thats just what the guy i got it off was telling me so ;)

[cucinadio]

what bearings run on the current axle?
do you need braked hubs?

S


mate there Toyota rims ..so i guess there Toyota bearings....dont need brakes it will be well under the kg mark ;)

cheers

[PhilipA]

They look like ALKO Ford or Holden to me by the small size of the cap drilled for Tojo.
Are there brake drums there? Cannot see in the picture but if there are you can save a lot of weight by machining them off.
I didn't see but if it is a CUB the jacks are there to stop it sagging in the middle when open and you step near the join.
Regards Philip A

[cucinadio]

They look like ALKO Ford or Holden to me by the small size of the cap drilled for Tojo.
Are there brake drums there? Cannot see in the picture but if there are you can save a lot of weight by machining them off.
I didn't see but if it is a CUB the jacks are there to stop it sagging in the middle when open and you step near the join.
Regards Philip A

mate l really dont know its not my forte...;).but it hasnt any drums ;)

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

hi guys,

l have Toyota split rims on at the mo ....wanting to change to land rover hubs to suit the rims l got of ron....there little wider then the ones i have on now....the axle is a 40mm square ...does anyone know where i can get the correct hubs ...not seem to get a hold of the right ones ..but lm prob looking for the wrong thing


cheers

Have a look at what I did with mine. Use LR spindles and hubs on a custom made tube axle.
Check the pics.
Post is here (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-2-2a/55849-ideas-2a-box-trailer-pls-3.html#post806501)
Let me know if you want more detailed pics as I need to pull them down and put new bearings in before Xmas
Andrew.

[cucinadio]

Have a look at what I did with mine. Use LR spindles and hubs on a custom made tube axle.
Check the pics.
Post is here (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-2-2a/55849-ideas-2a-box-trailer-pls-3.html#post806501)

Let me know if you want more detailed pics as I need to pull them down and put new bearings in before XmasAndrew.



cheers mate ...that would be great, thanks

Matt

PS your old chassis look a lot like mine where was from ?

[roverrescue]

I agree with Philip, they do look like stock trailer hubs drilled 6 stud cruiser.
Pull a hub and check if they are holden or ford bearings... Just pull the dust cap off, remove the nut and washer and slide the outer bearing out. Measure the bearings OD and we can tell you if they are Ford or Holden hubs....
If Ford I have a pair of Ford bearing LRover drilled hubs you could have for a good price plus freight from Cairns...


Changing to LRover stubs and hubs like Andrew has done will be overkill inregards to load rating but will be bomb proof.

My off road boat trailer which gets hammered 3 or 4 times up the cape each year started life with Ford hubs but I have recently changed to a 45mm square axle with flanges to bolt on LRover stubs... I was repacking and replacing bearings near on every trip on a rig that weighed under 750kg - mostly due to saltwater/corrugations and 235 85s on disco rims...

If it wont get alot of hard use then Ford bearings may do the job nicely.

The biggest load points that I have found on offroad trailers (mostly boat) is where the aframe attaches to the leading spring hanger/ and also the chassis rails directly above the shackle plate - your chassis will need some work me thinks but everything is possible.

S

[cucinadio]

I agree with Philip, they do look like stock trailer hubs drilled 6 stud cruiser.
Pull a hub and check if they are holden or ford bearings... Just pull the dust cap off, remove the nut and washer and slide the outer bearing out. Measure the bearings OD and we can tell you if they are Ford or Holden hubs....
If Ford I have a pair of Ford bearing LRover drilled hubs you could have for a good price plus freight from Cairns...


Changing to LRover stubs and hubs like Andrew has done will be overkill inregards to load rating but will be bomb proof.

My off road boat trailer which gets hammered 3 or 4 times up the cape each year started life with Ford hubs but I have recently changed to a 45mm square axle with flanges to bolt on LRover stubs... I was repacking and replacing bearings near on every trip on a rig that weighed under 750kg - mostly due to saltwater/corrugations and 235 85s on disco rims...

If it wont get alot of hard use then Ford bearings may do the job nicely.

The biggest load points that I have found on offroad trailers (mostly boat) is where the aframe attaches to the leading spring hanger/ and also the chassis rails directly above the shackle plate - your chassis will need some work me thinks but everything is possible.

S


mate cheers for that l will check over the weekend and let you know :D


If Ford I have a pair of Ford bearing LRover drilled hubs you could have for a good price plus freight from Cairns


cheers for that ...if they are ....could you PM me with a good price :D

cheers

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

Changing to LRover stubs and hubs like Andrew has done will be overkill inregards to load rating but will be bomb proof.

I only have this because I had the pipe, had the U bolts and a customer (prof pipe welder) who owed me a favour!
However I wanted it with std LR hubs, spindles and bearings as it reduces my inventory when I go away. All my wheels, bearings etc all interchange. Makes life a little easier. You can get LR hubs on trailer bearings from most trailer parts places. Martins trailer parts here in WA stock them in LR bolt.

[cucinadio]

:eek::confused::confused::confused::confused::eek: :wallbash::woot::huh::unsure::blush:::

[HangOver]

as a side point that lookslike a very nice drive way to spill oil on, its black :D

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

cheers mate ...that would be great, thanks

Matt

PS your old chassis look a lot like mine where was from ?

Bought it off a guy who dragged it from over your way. Looks like it has the same frame!
Have you got a bolted down tip on yours??
They may well be the same thing!. Mine looks a bit back yard and has had repairs to it, but my drawbar connects by a hinge arrangement to the frame.

[cucinadio]

Bought it off a guy who dragged it from over your way. Looks like it has the same frame!

Have you got a bolted down tip on yours??They may well be the same thing!. Mine looks a bit back yard and has had repairs to it, but my drawbar connects by a hinge arrangement to the frame.

buy tip l guess your saying the end of the draw bar connection to the underside of the centre of the chassie ...if that the case yes it does..and it is bolted and has allso been welded for extra strength;)

once l have the brother inlaw weld the floor on ( checker plate ) and brass the front with extra draw bar corners it wont be goinbg anywhere :cool:

the bro inlaw is a boiler maker buy trade and has built a few trailers in his time ...hes of the opinion that the fram is a really good base ..so im trusting in his jugement

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

By tip I mean tipper tray bolts to the draw bar. My drawbar is a little different in that I have a std A frame arrangement where as from your pics it looks to be almost like a single bar.

[cucinadio]

By tip I mean tipper tray bolts to the draw bar. My drawbar is a little different in that I have a std A frame arrangement where as from your pics it looks to be almost like a single bar.


yhea...no mine doesn't have a tipper .....the draw bar is single bar running from the center of the frame level to the axle.......it has two extra beams running along side of that from axel to the front of the chassis frame......we will be running two extra beams from the the front of the chassis to just under the spare Tyre pole so will be very strong


wish i had cad ...would be nice to draw it up

cheers

[cucinadio]

as a side point that lookslike a very nice drive way to spill oil on, its black :D


what the oils black ????.....the trailer is no where near my driveway mate thank god....but at least it will tell straight up if the baby's leaking :D

cheers

[Redback]

G'day Matt, my opinion on your build is, keep it simple the setup i would go for would be too keep the trailer wheels the same as the tow vehicle.

Everything is available from any trailer place, I'd get a 45 square axle, LR drum or disc brake hubs (ELECTRIC OR OVERRIDE) with Ford bearings, 7 leaf rebound springs rated too 1000kgs, the springs come complete with hangers and shackles all you do do is weld the hangers in place with the springs attached, 500mm sides, offroad hitch.

This would be the basis for a good strong offroad trailer/camper.

Custom anything means more money, unless you can do it yourself.

EDIT This is one of the best trailer builds i've seen

http://myswag.org/forum/index.php'topic=127.0 (http://myswag.org/forum/index.php'topic=127.0)

Just my 2 cents.

Baz.

[cucinadio]

G'day Matt, my opinion on your build is, keep it simple the setup i would go for would be too keep the trailer wheels the same as the tow vehicle.

Everything is available from any trailer place, I'd get a 45 square axle, LR drum or disc brake hubs (ELECTRIC OR OVERRIDE) with Ford bearings, 7 leaf rebound springs rated too 1000kgs, the springs come complete with hangers and shackles all you do do is weld the hangers in place with the springs attached, 500mm sides, offroad hitch.

This would be the basis for a good strong offroad trailer/camper.

Custom anything means more money, unless you can do it yourself.

Just my 2 cents.

Baz.



thanks mate appreciate the advice ...the axle is already square ...thinking that this will already be strong enough
...after all the guys that had it be for me had a camper of a cub style on it and was really giving it a work out over the last few yrs on Fraser regularly they get a bit of a work out over there as you would know if l go the hole hog l may as well be building a new one from scratch ;) which at this point maybe wouldn't be a bad idea...:eek: says the swmbo

also l had the rego changed over yesterday and the thing is already rated at 1.2 tonnes so WT ;)

cheers


EDIT This is one of the best trailer builds i've seen

Off Road Camper Trailer Project - *More work completed Nov 07 - PICS!* (http://myswag.org/forum/index.php'topic=127.0)


yes l agree mate but the cost for me is swmbo prohibitive :(

cheers

[cucinadio]

heres a basic idea of what l have in mind guys....and yes it is predictable but I'm no cad expert...lol

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/295.jpg

cheers

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

wish i had cad ...would be nice to draw it up

cheers

Think I have an old copy of Autocad somewhere. Your welcome to it if you want. Just PM me some postal details and I will get a copy in the mail.

[cucinadio]

Heres one with a bit more of an idea of the scale of things

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/268.jpg

the draw bar is in better scale in relation to the rest of the brasses...thoughts

cheers

[cucinadio]

ok found this ........


If you want to work out which wheels you have, Ford, Holden etc. here are some measurements.

PCD (pitch circle dia) Holden HT 4.25", Ford 4.5", Holden HQ 4.75", Toyota 6".

To work out Toyota is simple, just measure from centre of one stud to the centre of opposite stud.

As there are no opposites on 5 stud pattern, use the following.

measure from centre of one stud to the centre of next stud and multiply by 1.701 (measure in mm's and convert back to inches is the easiest way to do this)

OK could some one tell me wth is the PCD is .;).or more to the point where it is so l can measure it

cheers

[Olive Drab]

could kill 2 birds with the one stone. As mentioned before the weak point A-frame join near front shackle. get some thick walled RHS welded and/or bolted under the existing side rails. Its a quick cheat to increase strength and clearance, continue with the heavy duty steel into the drawbar it,s all then king gee tuff and just comes down to making everything that you attach later secure. Recomend 50x50x3mm minimum go to 4 or 5mm things will get heavier. but make that call on how tuff you think it needs to be. A little over engineering is not always a bad thing.

[cucinadio]

could kill 2 birds with the one stone. As mentioned before the weak point A-frame join near front shackle. get some thick walled RHS welded and/or bolted under the existing side rails. Its a quick cheat to increase strength and clearance, continue with the heavy duty steel into the drawbar it,s all then king gee tuff and just comes down to making everything that you attach later secure. Recomend 50x50x3mm minimum go to 4 or 5mm things will get heavier. but make that call on how tuff you think it needs to be. A little over engineering is not always a bad thing.


mate is what you mean

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/197.jpg


cheers

[cucinadio]

got my hitch today (ebay $50), but can someone please explain ....it looks like of got a mix of an Orac and a tegg
or even a home made hybrid of the two ...seems to be a touch of drab paint in the last pic ???

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/820.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/821.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/822.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/823.jpg

cheers

[mcrover]

Whats to explain, It's an off road hitch.

Brand isnt all that important.

Looks very similar to the one I picked up for Gav (Disco 300Tdi) a year or so ago for his trailer from Carac in Dandenong)

I recon they are a lot better than a tregg hitch for the fact that the bushes are easilly and cheaply replaced and also are all greasable so they shouldnt wear out too quick anyway.

[JDNSW]

One major point, I believe, is that your picture shows the thing incorrectly assembled - it should be joined with the two bolts so that the load on the weld joining the two bush tubes is in compression, and so that if this weld happened to fail the trailer would not be lost.

The other minor point is that I understand that to be legal, trailer connections have to be marked with their load rating - and I don't see that.

John

[cucinadio]

thanks guys:D

thanks john...thats really what is was thinking the "connection part"

cheers

[VladTepes]

I'm pretty sure that driveway has been photoshopped - I don't see any oil stains !

[Slunnie]

One major point, I believe, is that your picture shows the thing incorrectly assembled - it should be joined with the two bolts so that the load on the weld joining the two bush tubes is in compression, and so that if this weld happened to fail the trailer would not be lost.
Just spin the hitch around the other way. Its probably just flipped.

BTW cucinadio, PCD also is just the diameter of the circle which would pass through the middle of all of your wheel nuts. Its usually stated as nuber of wheelnuts and the diameter of the wheel nut circle. ie the more modern Landys are 5x120mm being 5 nuts in a 120mm diameter arrangement.

[Slunnie]

I'm pretty sure that driveway has been photoshopped - I don't see any oil stains !
I was wondering about the tiled driveways! I must have grown up in the wrong part of town. :D

[cucinadio]

OK minor prob....tried to turn it around and it doesn't seem to want to go ...gets about 3/4 the way around and it wont go any further.....any suggestions

cheers

[cucinadio]

I'm pretty sure that driveway has been photoshopped - I don't see any oil stains !


:D...no!..no!....there real really:D

cheers

[cucinadio]

just did some look seeing on the info box and found its probably an old version of a AT-35 all-terrain coupling

it seem to be the same design... but alot older;)

cheers

[JDNSW]

OK minor prob....tried to turn it around and it doesn't seem to want to go ...gets about 3/4 the way around and it wont go any further.....any suggestions

cheers

Take out the pin it is pivoting on. Probably a good idea if it can't get the wrong way round accidentally.

John

[cucinadio]

Take out the pin it is pivoting on. Probably a good idea if it can't get the wrong way round accidentally.

John



is it easy to get the little pin out and replace ????

cheers

[Redback]

Matt have a look at this, apart from the fact the bit that attaches to the vehicle on yours is a Tregg, the trailer part is AT-35 or a copy of one, but it looks like it's the right way round.

http://www.vehiclecomponents.com.au/gallery/at35/AT35%20New%202004.JPG