Air conditioning into series Landy.

[Slunnie]

Just wondering, has anybody ever managed to install Air conditioning into a Series II Land Rover? I've spent a hot day today in the Disco2 which has really good AC in it, but was wondering what the possibilities were for my ol' Landy. Its not so much the actual compressor that worries me, its more the AC unit itself that does the chilling.

If not... any thoughts on how. I was looking at a Defender unit today, and it looks like it is all attached under the dash, though I didn't look into it too far. I assume that this type of unit can be made to fit a Series II.

[Xavie]

I wish I knew all the ins and outs but I don't. However. I have seen 2 for sale which I was interested in and they both had it. From my basic knowledge they were both the same system so maybe their is a common type that can be easily used. In the end I just got a soft top:p

Xav

[JDNSW]

Not Series, but you could do what I have done with my 110 - it has a unit fitted in the cubby box, and you could replace the centre seat with something like that. (The actual unit was originally an under dash unit sourced from a wrecker - originally an after market fitment from probably the 1970s or early 1980s.) This would mean losing the centre seat, which would probably require engineering approval in some states.

Any custom installation is going to be pretty expensive - mine was $1000 nearly twenty years ago at mate's rates. The sort of business to talk to is someone who does installations and repairs in agricultural machinery such as headers and tractors.

John

[Bigbjorn]

We did have a few private buyer SIII's fitted with a/c in my Leyland days. These were done outside by specialists and to my recall were all under-dash Mark IV types. Difficult but not impossible, and expensive even by the standards of the time, over $1000 in the early-mid 70's. A few sold to mining companies had rooftop units fitted which were identical units to those fitted to all the companies plant for service and parts commonality. These were severe service units made by a specialist company in Brisbane, Clima, whose products were used by most mines almost as a matter of course. These were very, very, expensive by automotive standards, but extremely robust and very high performance for operations in the high ambient temperatures encountered in outback Queensland mines.

[dandlandyman]

Use 2/55 aircon...



:D:D 2 windows open/ 55mph.:D:D

[ladas]

Basically you can fit almost anything as far as the evaporator is concerned - if it physically fits then it's fine.

I have done a few using 'mini bus' evaporators - mounted on the underside of the roof. It's a bit of a git concealing the refrigeration pipes and the condensate drain - but they worked very well.

Obviously you can get new 'mini bus' type evaporators - but you could also be lucky and find one in a wreckers.

If you are near a Repro - pop in and ask them if you can have a look at the OEX/Ingram catalogue - there is a range of various types of evaporator.

Now in theory whilst a compressor/evaporator/condenser needs to be matched - in the realms of auto ac it matters little.

[Dinty]

G'day All, I had a Mk IV fitted into my Series 2A 88" way back in 1978, AFIK I was the only person in the Hunter region with one LOL, it was a great talking point, worked well too cheers Dennis:angel:

[Sideroad]

I have played with A/C units and repaired and removed some from cars. I think with a bit of effort and imagination A/C in a series would work fine.
My plan in the distant future is to do my S2a, but i hate the look of those chunky underdash units. There was a VW fast back in VWAus mag that had a great unit fitted.(evap&fan) It was a remote unit installed under the bonnet (no prob in a series) and was considerably compact. Then 2 or 4 ducts are run through the firewall into the cabin. I think this is the way to go, that way from inside it will never be seen and still keep the basic classic look I love. I have a Smiths heater and would modify the internals to duct the AC through the existing outlets.

[paulthepilot_5]

Air Con in a series landy :eek:

Thats like trying to keep food cold in a fridge with no door...



:wasntme:

[roverrescue]

If you could keep the amps up to it a WAECO roof mounted 12/240V all in one unit would be an easy install?

I have a 130 in Cairns, the A/C now blows 120psi air.... use the vents at speed and windows when going slow?

S

[Rangier Rover]

I helped a guy do an 88" a few years ago.
We used the rear air con out of a Sahara HJ 60 Land cruiser. Ducting went along the roof line. The evaporator went behind the 2nd bulkhead :eek:. Was all second hand and only needed a new drier and valves for new compliant refrigerent. It worked supriseingly well.
Tony

[kombi1976]

I can see that it would be nice to have a "cooler" 2a in summer but isn't is a bit like having water proof swimming trunks?
To have a truly effective aircon system the vehicle would have to be draught free and insulated so it didn't lose efficiency.
I wouldn't even bother with it in my '68 2a LWB ute.
The cab is really small and even a Smiths heater (which I would LOVE in these Southern Tablelands winters) would take up leg room.
When summer really kicks in I'll be opening the vents under the windscreen, opening the door glass and opening the sliding rear glass for good flow through.
And if it continues to be too hot I'm losing the roof! :D

To play along with the concept though, my brother built a beach buggy on a Beetle pan using an old J&S fibreglass body mad in the 70s.
He installed a 2.5l Subaru motor from an Outback and using the stock compressor and an underdash unit it has worked well even though it's a soft top like most buggies are.

[dickyjoe]

Hey

This is something I was thinking of fitting to my 58 Series 2 project, under the left guard or similar.

AIR CON / HEATER UNDER DASH CHEV FORD HOLDEN VALIANT - eBay, Other Car Parts, Accessories, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 24-Oct-08 10:17:08 AEST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/AIR-CON-HEATER-UNDER-DASH-CHEV-FORD-HOLDEN-VALIANT_W0QQitemZ380072625087QQihZ025QQcategoryZ67 63QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

Ebay no 380072625087 if link doesnt work

Rich

[Randylandy]

Have seen ladas with AC also the same system installed in Aeroplanes. Had a black box bout the size of a ream of printer paper with all the fans and stuff in it. Not sure what how they arranged the condensor etc. Keep us posted if you look into it more will also be interested.

[101RRS]

Hey

This is something I was thinking of fitting to my 58 Series 2 project, under the left guard or similar.

AIR CON / HEATER UNDER DASH CHEV FORD HOLDEN VALIANT - eBay, Other Car Parts, Accessories, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 24-Oct-08 10:17:08 AEST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/AIR-CON-HEATER-UNDER-DASH-CHEV-FORD-HOLDEN-VALIANT_W0QQitemZ380072625087QQihZ025QQcategoryZ67 63QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

Ebay no 380072625087 if link doesnt work

Rich

I have bought one of them from the same company with the intention of putting it in my 101 - not yet fitted. Is a heater and A/C . Note what you see is all you get so you will then need to buy compressor, reciever dryer, pipes and condensor etc.

Garry

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Can anyone tell me if the above units are anything like the MkIV and RRc under-dash units, where they take air from the back of the unit and push it through the condensers?

If Yes, then when fitted in the back of the LH wheel arch they will always be drawing air from the engine bay with all its heat and fumes and pumping that into the cab, not recycling the air in the cab at all. They would need to be boxed over then an air intake vent placed either to the outside or from the the footwell.

Diana

[Shonky]

Air Con in a series landy :eek:

Thats like trying to keep food cold in a fridge with no door...



:wasntme:

True! :lol2:

[101RRS]

Can anyone tell me if the above units are anything like the MkIV and RRc under-dash units, where they take air from the back of the unit and push it through the condensers?

If Yes, then when fitted in the back of the LH wheel arch they will always be drawing air from the engine bay with all its heat and fumes and pumping that into the cab, not recycling the air in the cab at all. They would need to be boxed over then an air intake vent placed either to the outside or from the the footwell.

Diana

Yes they are - but with some work in making up some trunking they could draw air from the cab or from outside.

Garry

[dickyjoe]

No reason you couldnt install it in the passenger footwell a bit like an early defender. Remember its a heater also so you could then just pipe the vents up to the face level and windscreen. Bingo bango

[scrambler]

Would you have the dimensions of the box, Garry? Im wondering if it might fit (or be made to fit) in place of the Series III heater box. Or alternatively in the cubby box with piping up through the inspection port. Maybe even in the space under the inspection hatch and above the drive shaft.

I've been thinking for a long time about A/C for the Stage 1 wagon. Something that could replace the heater box would be the ideal solution, and then existing switchgear could be used - totally disguise the installation.

[Stuck]

:Rolling::Rolling:I was looking at fitting a unit similar to the ebay one to my old Stage 1 ute. I was looking towards mounting it behind the seat and running some ducting into some vents mounted in the (aftermarket) overhead console and mounting the a/c controls there as well. It would have been more or less stuck on recirculate mode but as someone has already mentioned there would be a fair amount of fresh added anyway:Rolling::Rolling::Rolling: . Just a thought.

Cheers,
Anthony.

[dickyjoe]

The mob also sell an underdash unit similar to the old ones you used to see in holdens and falcons.

AIR CONDITIONING UNDER DASH CHEV FORD HOLDEN VALIANT - eBay, Other Car Parts, Accessories, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 28-Oct-08 20:45:08 AEDST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/AIR-CONDITIONING-UNDER-DASH-CHEV-FORD-HOLDEN-VALIANT_W0QQitemZ380074774428QQihZ025QQcategoryZ67 63QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l12 62)

[tacr2man]

When I brought my 110 V8 CSW over to Oz it had no aircon, but having seen how lots of 4x4 had to turn theirs off when sand driving due to overhaeting the condensor being in front of engine radiator, I decided to fit a roof top unit like mining plant . It was very successful , and had a filtered fresh air supply so could pressurise vehicle to keep dust out.
The idea of looking in air con parts supplier catalogue is a good one , as they have a large range of possibles . I was a licenced air con fitter/repairer in W.A as part of my garage business , so had the catalogue to hand .
I would suggest that you fit a auxillary type evap as used in rear of 4wd or small busses . You do not need a fresh air facility, as they are most efficient when on recirc. and you will need all the help you can get in a series due to previous mentioned losses due to lack of insulation , and air gaps .
Between front seats against the bulkhead would be a good position , allowing the discharge vents to be aimed at you and passenger. you could route pipes under vehicle, outside cab area. Conensor , several possibles , infront of rad or get remote condensor , mount on roof , or on bonnet , there is plenty of room for other components . In foot wells , or under dash unit no real room , IMHO . HTSH

[Slunnie]

Well, despite the grave dig, I'm hoping to have solved the problem tonight!

I've just won on Ebay a Perentie AC unit complete. The ute has a 3.9V8 with an AC compressor on it already, so hopefully it will be merely a plumb, wire, gas and play installation. More money to the Pirtek man, but the AC will be worth it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/02/742.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/02/743.jpg

[abaddonxi]

Well, despite the grave dig, I'm hoping to have solved the problem tonight!

I've just won on Ebay a Perentie AC unit complete. The ute has a 3.9V8 with an AC compressor on it already, so hopefully it will be merely a plumb, wire, gas and play installation. More money to the Pirtek man, but the AC will be worth it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/02/742.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/02/743.jpg

Good to know it went to someone from here. I was the other bidder, and just missed the big button.:D

Did you get the injectors as well?

[Slunnie]

Good to know it went to someone from here. I was the other bidder, and just missed the big button.:D

Did you get the injectors as well?
Ahhh, was that you! Thank you though. I couldn't believe that nobody was bidding on it - at least up until the last few seconds. I had a snipe on it setup as I always forget to bid and I hate driving the price up too early. :blush:


Do you have a 4BD1? I didn't bid on the injectors though, mine is a 3.9V8 rather than the 3.9 diesel.

[101RRS]

I was interested in this for my 101 but I went to bed and forgot to bid - I was cranky to see what it went for. You got a bargain.

Garry

[Slunnie]

It sold VERY cheap. My snipe was for a lot more than that. The owner was saying that the previous owner was also watching it and that he was pretty disappointed as he'd spent a lot of time and money setting it up. The expensive part for this for me will be getting into the car and driving down to the gong to pick it up.

[rick130]

When you get your hoses made, thoroughly flush them, your condenser and evaporator through with a good flushing solvent. Obviously I use specialist stuff courtesy of ERG/Ladas but you'll need something that'll remove the old oil plus whatever crap has accumulated in there with the open fittings and ideally blow/purge through with dry nitrogen then assemble and pressure test.

You can chuck that drier away ! :lol2: (but keep the pressure switch)
Use new auto air O rings on everything too and lubricate with refrigeration oil if you can find some.

[Slunnie]

When you get your hoses made, thoroughly flush them, your condenser and evaporator through with a good flushing solvent. Obviously I use specialist stuff courtesy of ERG/Ladas but you'll need something that'll remove the old oil plus whatever crap has accumulated in there with the open fittings and ideally blow/purge through with dry nitrogen then assemble and pressure test.

You can chuck that drier away ! :lol2: (but keep the pressure switch)
Use new auto air O rings on everything too and lubricate with refrigeration oil if you can find some.
Thanks for this Rick, some good points and I had heard that they need to be dry and squeeky clean on the insides. I might install it all in that case and have a automotive AC joint sort the rest as it'll need gassing anyway.